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Nissan Altima Engine Failures

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  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    Hi, Ed, is it normal for the fan to be working intermittently? This is what my Altima does and is even more pronounced when I use the A/C and the noise increases like a vibration.
    When the car is started, the fans does not come on until the temp is in the middle of the temp gauge, are all these normal because my Maxima and Blue bird's fan blows all the time.
    Chuma.
  • "Hi, Ed, is it normal for the fan to be working intermittently? This is what my Altima does and is even more pronounced when I use the A/C and the noise increases like a vibration.
    When the car is started, the fans does not come on until the temp is in the middle of the temp gauge, are all these normal because my Maxima and Blue bird's fan blows all the time."

    See my messege #154 in this forum, I explain the operation of the fans. The fans come on when the coolant temperature reaches about 202 to 203 degrees F, and the fans turn off when the coolant temperature falls to about 188 degrees F.
    Good Luck
    E.D. ISF
  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    Hi ED, it seems you didnt read the issues I raised on question 291 about the owners side shock absorber/stabilizing rod, please do well to give me an answer.Thanks.
    Chuma.
  • We have had not suspension problems, so I do not know about the problem that you have. I do know that the front suspension uses a McPherson Strut with spring on each side. You may have a problem with it or with loose suspension bushings. About the motor or transmission stubbling, we have not had that problem either, sounds like a low speed engine problem. Like I said before, you need to read the computer codes and do proper diagnosis. If they don't have computer scanners over there, they need to get some, the small handheld scanners work well, they read the codes, tell you what the code is, clear the codes, and also monitor live sensor data, so that you can actually see and read the sensors (you can see the voltage swinging up and down on the oxygen sensor, coolant temp, ignition timing, etc). Once you know the code, you have to use logic or flow charts to figure out how to fix the problem.
    E.D. ISF
  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    Thanks once more ED.I really need this scanners but then about how much do they cost? Does it come with a code decipher? If they are not really expensive, I will ask my friend in the USA to help me get one when coming home in some months time.
    I thank God I discovered this site now I know much better, though ignorance is bliss.Can the scanners discover reason for low MPG? I am presently getting 18-22.3 in city and 26-31 in free way depending on driving conditions.I have read reviews of people getting 26/35-40 city/freeway and I get jealous especially with Camry and Honda.What am I doing wrong or is it the car?
    Chuma, Nigeria.
  • You can find out all about the scanners, how to use them, and all about the trouble codes (DTC'S) on the internet, simply Goggle "automotive scanners".
    Some of the top ones are:
    Autoxray
    Autotap
    Autoenginuity
    Mine is a 2001 model by Autoxray, it was $200 then.
    They now run about $200 and up. They have handheld models, and also have ones that plug into a laptop computer to give all types of fancy displays.
    Research them on the net , and you will find out all about them.
    Also Goggle "OBD II trouble codes" and you will find out all about the trouble codes (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) and how to read and interpret them. The codes do not tell you what part is bad or what part to replace, they point you in the right direction in your search for the problem.
    About your gas mileage, that is a matter of keeping the engine in good tune, to be sure all cylinders are firing properly, to be sure the transmision shifts properly, The transmission torque converter should lock up at cruising speeds, and driving habits play a big part, easy on the gas, keep rpms low when accelerating, and easy on the brakes. If you apply the brakes hard or stop fast, that is moving energy that is lost or wasted (lost gas mileage).
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • bcole05bcole05 Posts: 3
    ED,
    Seems like your the one to ask around here so here goes:
    I have a 2.5S with ~90000 miles on it. It burns 1 quart of oil every 50 miles. It doesn't appear that any coolant is getting inside the cylinders and the coolant level stays the same. I took out the spark plugs and in cylinders 2,3,4 you can see deposits and oil on top of the piston. The spark plugs look bad but nothing excessively bad. The car runs perfectly fine and there doesn't seem to be a loss of power. There is blue-ish smoke coming from exhaust as well. The problem started on the trip from FL to MD when the car was heavily loaded. Needless to say, I had to put in about 20+ quarts of oil just to get the thing home (it made it and still runs ok). I have had cylinder misfires. The oil looks really black (and not milky). I did a compression test and all four cylinders read in the 160-165 psi range.

    I was thinking scored walls but compression seems ok to me (atleast not bad enough that it burns 1 qt every 50 miles) and the car runs fine with no loss of power. Next, I was hoping it was only a head gasket but no coolant is getting in the engine (not sure if it is possible for a blown head gasket to leak just oil into the cylinders). So now I'm hoping for bad valves (but seems weird that 3 cylinders would go at one time). I've heard things about the pcv valve going bad but could this be a cause as well?

    Anyway, I was looking for your thoughts. If it is the valves, can they be replaced without having to take off the timing chain and cylinder head?

    Thanks for your help!
    Ben
  • Ben, I'll try to help, but there are other people here to help also. Yes, you certainly do have an oil consumption problem, but it has to be determined where the oil is going. You said you checked the spark plugs on clyinders 2, 3 & 4, but what about cylinder #1? Since your compression is good AND you have no loss of coolant, it would be a safe assumption for now to say that you don't appear to have a head gasket leak. The oil could be entering the cylinders from several locations.
    First, I would check the PCV valve and hose, as a bad PCV can suck oil out of the engine crankcase and into the cylinders. You can temporarily disconnect the PCV and plug the openings and see if that makes any difference after 50 to 100 miles. Also, when the PCV is diconnected, see if you get much smoke (blowby gas) coming out of the hose that connects the PCV to the valve cover.
    You said the oil was very dark, how long does it take to get dark after an oil change? How often do you change your oil? You may need to change your oil more often, but I guess by adding so much oil, it's like a constant oil change.
    Second, the oil can get into the cylinders past worn oil control rings, those are the lower rings on the piston, each piston has 3 rings, from top to bottom, an upper compression ring, a lower compression ring, and an oil control ring. If the oil control rings do not work properly because they get broken, weak or damaged, they will allow oil to leak up past the piston into the combustion chamber and burn with the gas on top of the piston. Since your compression readings seem fairly ok, the walls are likely not scored. Replacing rings ia a major overhaul, having to remove the engine, very costly.
    Third, another thing that can cause high oil consumption is oil leaking past the valve guides, but as much oil as you have to add, it would have to be more than just the valve guides.
    If you need valve work, the entire head has to be removed and the head rebuilt at a machine shop. Have the engine and head checked by a competent machine shop. If you search these messeges you will find that I have went over all of that before and I have posted links to photos of the complete teardown and rebuild of the engine head removal, and head replacement, with links to many photos of it all.
    Forth, another thing that could cause this issue is that the "Power Valve Screws" have a nasty habit of coming loose on these cars and they get sucked into the intake of the engine, and can cause severe damage to the engine, if they happen to take a bad "bounce" before they finally find their way out the exhaust. They can even cause a cracked piston, head or valve. See previous messages about this issue, or Google it.
    Have you had any problems with the catalytic converters yet? Since you are burning oil, that oil goes through the cats and will cause them to fail eventually.
    I would start first with the simplest thing to check, the PCV valve and hose.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • bcole05bcole05 Posts: 3
    ED, thanks for your reply.

    I checked all the spark plugs and they looked ok. Dirty but not excessively dirty. As for the oil, I change it religously every 3000-3500 miles. I have not done an oil change since the problem (figuring I was basically doing one all the time). Before the significant increase in oil consumption it didn't get black right away and the engine probably burned 1 qt every 1000-1500 miles. And then all of the sudden it shot up to 1 qt every 50 miles on the trip home. Now the oil is constantly dark even after adding more. When I pour in oil, there seems to be fumes coming out of the oil port in the valve cover. Not sure if this is because everything is hot, or if this is normal, or if it is exhaust fumes exiting from a busted valve that is being trapped in the valve cover.

    From my understanding of what you wrote, it is possible to have a bad oil control ring but still have decent compression. Is this correct and do the rings usually fail all at the same time or could just one fail?

    I have not had problems with the precat or cat yet. However there are codes that are stored and I will be borrowing a friends code reader tonight to see what they are. Since I had to add so much oil, I am already planning on having to replace the cat and the precat (but either hollowed out or with a header) assuming the engine can be fixed for a reasonable amount of money.

    I guess my plan of action now is to check the codes and see what they say first. I will try to replace the PCV valve and hope that fixes everything. Then I would like to take off the exhaust manifold/precat and see what the inside of that looks like. If theres nothing left, I would expect the problems to be much worse than feared. I was also going to take off the valve cover and look around, but will I really see anything from just doing this? Next, I was going to check out the intake manifold and see if all the butterfly screws are still there (I am assuming thats the same thing as the "power valve screws").

    Do that seem like a reasonable path to take?

    One last question, is there any reason to take it to the dealership do you think? The car and exhaust components are out of warranty (~90000 miles) and since I have a code reader and already did the compression test, I don't want to pay for someone to tell me something I already know. I am figuring that since I don't have oil reciepts, a maintanence history through Nissan (I do everything myself), and the car is out of warranty, I will have no chance at getting Nissan to help fix/pay for anything.

    Thanks again,
    Ben
  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    Dear ED,
    Thanks for all the contribution so far, its been wonderful joining this forum.I have indeed learnt a lot from you guys.
    My exhaust pot has two outlets and I normally check the gas coming out of it.I noticed that the pipe to the right from the back blows out cold air while the one to the left blows out hot air.Is this normal? just a chance discovery by putting my hand there when i start it in the mornings.
    I also want to find out the meaning of PCV valve and hose and where they are situated in the engine.I am a doctor and the PCV I am used to is 'Packed Cell Volume'.
    Now I know better I am afraid to travel with this car, Ignorance they say is bliss, but knowledge is still supreme so I want to learn more and more.
    Thanks to electricdesign (trying to figure out the name or guy name).
    Thanks, Chuma.
  • Yes, the oil control rings can fail and yet the compression rings could still be good enough to give you good compression. If that happens, the bad oil ring allows oil to come up past the piston into the combustion chamber. The oil rings can fail slowly or suddenly, they can wear out or they can break, usually one at a time.
    But first, do what I asked in the previous message, check the engine crankcase for combustion blow by gases. Leave the oil filler cap ON the valve cover, pull the hose off the PCV valve. The other end of that hose should be connected to the valve cover. Start and run the engine and see if smoke or gas blows out the hose and if any, how much. A good engine will not blow any smoke, a bad engine with blow by will blow smoke. The gas or smoke is combustion gas that leaks past the rings into the cylinders. If no blow by, you still have a problem yet, since you know that the engine is consuming oil and that smoke comes out the exhaust.
    It is possible that oil could be leaking past the valves, but it is hard to believe that that much oil could leak past them.
    To look at the Pre Cat (first cat), don't unbolt the exhaust manifold from the engine. Unbolt the exhaust pipe from the bottom of the exhaust manifold (two bolts with springs), under the car, and look up inside the exhaust manifold. You will be able to see the lower cat screen if it is there. If the cat has blow out clean, that is one less thing to worry about, except for where the stuff went down the pipe (usually clogs up the 2nd cat). Unbolt the exhaust pipe to check the 2nd cat.
    About the dealer, I don't think you will get any help there, unless you like to spend a lot of money.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    Why do you advice against getting to the Pre Cat by unbolting the exhaust manifold from the engine? Rather you prefer from under,is it easier that way?
    I have been looking at mine with my mechanic and wondering where to approach it from.He wants the approach you advised against so I need reasons to give him.
    thanks,remember question 301 please.
    Chuma.
  • bcole05bcole05 Posts: 3
    Well last night was not a good night. I started off checking the PCV valve and found that there was no smoke coming out (good thing). I decided to just replace it since it was a little sticky and found that the autoparts store gave me the wrong pcv valve. So next I tried to unbolt the precat from the bottom and the bolts have rusted on and also seem to have gotten smaller (corroded a little?). It seems like they should be 14mm nuts but theres still some play and I'm afraid to pull hard and round the corners. I tried both SAE and metric sizes and couldn't find a good fit.

    So after all that, I decided to recheck the compression since nothing seems to be adding up to why its burning so much oil. Well low and behold the compression was 135-142 psi for all the cylinders. I don't know what I did differently the first time to get much higher readings. I haven't really driven the car since the last test. If anything, this time the engine was hotter so you would think higher compression numbers. So its looking much more like a new engine will be needed. And if this is the case I will probably be getting rid of the car unfortunately. I love the car when the engine is working. I think getting a new engine or having the dealer replace it is just not worth the time/money, especially when the cars only worth ~$5700.

    Thanks for your help ED!
    Ben
  • If you just want to look into the exhaust manifold to see if the precat material is there, it is simply easier to see it from underneath because you only have to remove the two bolts with springs, drop the exhaust pipe out of the way, and look up inside the exhaust manifold with a flashlight. If you wanted to hollow the Pre Cat out, you could also do it from below. If you want to put the whole thing off, it just involves more work, you have to unbolt the exhaust pipe at the bottom of the exhaust manifold, then you have to remove the heat shields, then remove the oxygen sensor wiring, then rmove the mounting nuts that bolt the manifold to the engine head, then lift the exhaust manifold out the top.

    About the exhaust at the back of the car, you have a single exhaust with a single muffler with a single tailpipe that splits into two tailpipe tips. As long as you have good exhaust gas flow out of either pipe at the back of the car, you are ok. This is only for single exhaust cars. Cars that have dual exhaust, such as the V6, must have good exhaust gas flow out of BOTH left and right tailpipes.

    About the "PCV I am used to is 'Packed Cell Volume'." PCV Referring to automotive is Postive Crankcase Ventilation.

    "electricdesign (trying to figure out the name or guy name)." That is simply my job as an electrical designer, hence the abbreviation E.D.

    Good Luck,
    E.D.
  • The bottom bolts of the exhaust manifold, where the exhaust pipe connects, definitely do get rusty and stuck tight. That work is easy for me because I just use my acetylene torch to heat them red hot and they come right off.
    Check you compression tester, it's always best to use quality reliable equipment, because wrongs readings can throw you way off track. I use a qualitiy screw in Pearless compression tester, with a heavy duty 2 foot flexible hose.
    "So its looking much more like a new engine will be needed." Unfortunately, I think you are about right, since the compressions are now reading low. That would give much stronger indication that oil is leaking up past the pistons and rings into the combustion chamber and burning with the oil.
    I would agree that a $5700 car is not worth a new engine, unless it is a restoration project or of great sentimental value.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    Thanks ED, I think I have to do this myself because the mechanic keeps insisting he will remove everything and I think otherwise.
    Maybe I will use his tools and pit in the workshop and have a look for possible hollowing of the pre cat and have peace.
    The PCV's air flow is supposed to be clear and colourless I presume.The one in my Bluebird brings out dirty oily black gas but I cant seem to locate that of my Altima.
    Thanks, Chuma.
  • Chuma,
    Since you may try to look into the exhaust manifold/pre cat yourself, look at what I wrote in messege #306:
    "The bottom bolts of the exhaust manifold, where the exhaust pipe connects, definitely do get rusty and stuck tight. That work is easy for me because I just use my acetylene torch to heat them red hot and they come right off."

    I would count on the bolts being rusty and tight, so try to be prepared for the worst. Exhaust components usually are rusty and stuck, so this should not be a problem if the mechanic is familiar with this type of work. I don't know if you have an acetylene torch or anything to get rusted tight nuts loose. If you get stuck, and can't get it off, then just let the mechanic have a crack at it, as he has to take that exhaust pipe loose anyway, before he can remove the exhaust manifold. See teardown photos DSC06886 through 06888. If you try to hollow out the pre cat, I would recommend that you first remove the oxygen sensors to avoid damaging them. You may likely need a special socket for this, if they are tight, and they usually are. The special socket has a slot up the side to allow the socket to slip over the wiring. See teardown photo #06892, this photo is on the upper O2 sensor for clarity of the photo, but you need to remove the lower O2 sensor also, as it is in the most danger of being damaged during the hollowing out process.

    The PCV valve is located bolted with 2 bolts to the Intake Plenium, on the end of the hose from the valve cover, see teardown photo # DSC06959. If you pull the hose off the PCV and start the engine, there should be only a small amount of gas, if any, coming out of the hose (coming out of the inside of the engine), and it should be colorless (we have color here, not colour). If dark or smokey, it indicates an engine problem, which is too much combustion gas in the crankcase, also called blow by. The cure for blow by is a new or rebuilt engine.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • Note on replacing the O2 sensors:
    Unscrew O2 sensors carefully, if they start to get tight when unscrewing them, spray some penetrating oil on the exposed threads and screw it back in a little and work the sensor back and forth a few times to work the oil into the threads. Apply oil as often as needed. It should loosen and eventually come out. Before putting a used or new O2 sensor back in, coat the threads with a small amount of Neverseize compound (available at auto parts stores). Put the Neverseize carefully only on the threads, do not contaminate the sensor with the compound. This will help in the future, in case you should have to remove it again.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    ED, thanks, I have taken a critical look at it from under the car and like you said its rusty and i can't do it alone.I am going to take the mechanic through the pics so that he can appreciate what is involved and we do it together.we don't have the cheater down here though nobody checks for the SES light (free society and thats why they keep shipping these cars to us here where we lack the knowledge of these basic problems!!!!).

    The PCV valve is hidden under a plastic covering of the engine (there is this black plastic covering the top of the engine with 2.5 written on it that covers the engine I didn't see it in yours). If I remove it I believe I will be able to see the valve and some other things like the plug.My car is even the same color as your daughter's - Gold.

    I have looked at the pics as you directed and all were clear.The oxygen sensor, I am really amazed because down here the wires are cut by the mechanics with the belief that it does nothing.My 1988 nissan bluebird even has one but the wires are cut for a long time now and i learnt that when bad will contribute to increase fuel consumption -- is this true?

    How is your daughter's Altima performing? we need a feedback from you for that heroic performance (to think you did the overhauling of that engine all alone). This will aid me so as to know when to sell the car off, its just 7 months old with me now.I don't need a liability now especially with the crashing prices though its still expensive down here, I bought mine 1.7million Naira which is about $14,780 including shipping and clearance at the wharf down here.You guys are lucky there, the cars are cheap there.
    Thanks, Chuma.
  • Sorry, but I took a few things for granted, because I am so familiar with working on cars, I just assume some things are just common knowledge. The message about the cheater was to someone else, because I do know that you don't need it. You don't care if the SES light is on, but it is still good to use a scanner to read the codes for trouble shooting. I forgot about the plastic cover, that is something that for sure you do not need, it was the first thing I threw away. You can keep it if you like the looks of it, but to me, it is only in the way, and I like to have the engine exposed.
    Oxygen Sensor, don't cut the wires! You need the O2 sensor working, because that is the main component that the computer uses to regulate the amount of fuel injected into the cylinders. The signals to the fuel injector are called "Pulse Width Modulated" signals. That means a pulse of voltage is sent to each fuel injector, a short pulse opens the fuel injector to only open for a short time, allowing only a small amount of fuel to enter the cylinder. A longer pulse allows more fuel to enter. The computer varies the lengths of the pulse according to the output of the oxygen sensor. If the O2 sensor reads rich, the computer tells the fuel injectors to go lean, If the O2 sensor reads lean, the computer tells the fuel injectors to go rich. It is always in a varying state, according to the reading of the O2 sensor. Now if you cut the wires, that will put the computer in the "default" state or "Open Loop" state, which just runs on a set of predetermined values that are not fuel efficient. Fuel consumption will increase, the engine will use more gas and not run as clean. Try to maintain the computer system and sensors. If you can't, then do the best that you can. You must have internet access to get to this forum, so try using Google to find the information that I previously told you about, it will explain all that I have said and much more.
    My Daughters 2002 Altima 2.5S is performing very well. I did a Sevice, oil change & filter change last weekend. It is using about 1 quart of motor oil in about 2,400 miles, which is OK. I change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles, using only Mobil One 10W-30 Synthetic Motor oil and Purolator Pure One Synthetic oil filter. I was noticing some vibration on the serpentine belt, I may have to change the belt tensioner soon. Other than needing some new tires, it is doing great.
    Thanks for the vote of confidence, but not needed, as I said before, I have done this type of work all my life, rebuilt many engines and transmissions. I retired from that work, but I still do it if needed, and my daugther really needed the help, so Dad had to help her out.
    I hope most of your questions are answered now.
    Good Luck
    E.D. ISF
  • I know you are helping someone else right now, but I have the same vehicle and engine and I'm also having a #3 misfire. (trouble code)

    However, mine only misfires upon start up and shortly after. Never while driving. Swapped coils and checked plugs and still misfired #3. Oh, it also idles slightly higher...at almost 1500 sometimes, but doesnn't surge.

    I'm thinking maybe the #3 injector is not closing completely at idle or upon engine shutdown....thus loading up the cylinder with fuel. Sound possible???

    Thanks for any info you may have,
    Rick
  • Is your Altima a 2002 with the 2.5L I4 engine? How many miles? Your problem could be a number of things, finding the problem and solution will start with checking all the obvious things first.
    One thing to check first - Do you loose any coolant from the radiator coolant tank, or do you have to add any coolant, and if so, how much and how often? The symptom sounds like a small amount of coolant leaks into the cylinder when the engine is shut off. Later when the engine is cooled down and restarted, the small amount of coolant in the cylinder causes the spark plug to missfire for a minute or less, until the coolant is all blown out, then the engine runs normally.
    The high idle may be related to the above or not. Check the PCV valve and check for vacuum leaks. Look for unplugged, loose, or cracked vacuum hoses. Check to be sure the upper and lower intake manifold bolts are all tight. Check to be sure the the O-Rings at each injector is not leaking or sucking air. Squirt oil on these things and listen to see if the speed of the engine changes. Connect a vacuum gauge to the intake plenum and see if the vacuum is good and steady.
    Fuel injector #3 might be the problem, but not as likely. Do you use a fuel system cleaner or additive? You should add a fuel cleaner additive to the gas tank at least every oil change, to keep the injectors clean. If you have not added any, try adding some and give it time to work. Use an STP type or Seafoam.
    Another problem that may cause the high idle could be the throttle body, Try carefully cleaning it with throttle body cleaner. Be sure the air filter is clean and that the air intake tube is not cracked or leaking anywhere. Sometimes, the Mass Airflow sensor needs to be cleaned, but they don't usually give problems on these vehicles, unless they are allowed to get dirty.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    Thanks for the assistance,I believe you have cleared all the grey areas.
    The serpentine belt you mentioned just made me remember something.Is it the same thing as the fan belt? and what is the tensioner? The belt in my Altima (right side of the engine) wobbles and it appears its the lowest pulley holding the belt that does that and causes some vibration when I put on the A/C.
    I think I need some help with regards to this.Does the pulley get damaged and does the wobbling affect the function?
    Thanks, Chuma.
  • You do not have a fan belt, you have a sepentine belt. It is tensioned by the autotensioner. It should run straight and true, if not, check all the pulleys for staightness and be sure none are loose, you need to do this with the belt removed. Look at how the belt goes around all the pullys, and make a drawing of it, you will need this when you try to put it back on. GROOVED pullys are on the INSIDE of the belt loop, and SMOOTH pullys are on the OUTSIDE of the belt loop. If the belt bounces, you may need a new belt, a new autotensioner, or both.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    Thanks ED, just some few clarifications,
    'GROOVED pulleys are on the INSIDE of the belt loop, and SMOOTH pulleys are on the OUTSIDE of the belt loop'.
    This is not clear to me.Which one is the autotensioner? Is it the pulley above and just behind the compressor pulley? Thats the one that wobbles a bit when the engine is idling.The compressor pulley is grooved while the one I am referring to, next to it is smooth and on the outside(just went to examine them). Is this the meaning of the statement above? that is the grooved pulleys get the rough part of the belt while the smooth ones get the smooth part of the belt which is on the outside.
    Thanks, Chuma.
    Is the autotensioner one of the smooth pulleys
  • Grooved pullys are inside the belt loop, they ride on the grooved pullys, I can't make it any clearer than that. Operating from my memory, the grooved pullys are Crankshaft, Power Steering, Compressor and Alternator. The smooth pullys are the Autotensioner and the idler pullys.
    Smooth pullys are outside the belt loop, the back of the belt rides on the smooth pullys.
    The pully that you see bouncing (not wobbling), is the autotensioner.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    Thanks, I think like you said you have made it clear.By 'bouncing' do you mean the autotensioner needs changing or is it supposed to be that way (bouncing)?
    Thanks, Chuma.
  • How hard is it to replace the crank sensor on my 02 nissan altima?? My car keeps stalling and is hard to start.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,331
    2.5 or 3.5?

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