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Nissan Altima Engine Failures

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  • I Have a 2002 Altima, After taking it to have the pre cat changed at the tune of $700 the car was runing like it should. Well thats before I checked the oil.. It ended up using one quart every 500 miles.. I took it to the dealer and they said there was no recall on the pre cat or oil consumption.. Both these problems occured within a month of each other.. They also told me the engines usually only last from 150,000-175,000 miles.. I found that hard to believe.. I had a Toyota pick up which I sold running with 294,000 miles.. Dont know what to do about Nissan, They fail to acknoledge there is a problem.. Any help would be greatfull
  • jd10013jd10013 Posts: 779
    what do you do to insure that yours isn't one of those 5% if you choose to keep this car? I

    the sure fire, 100% guaranteed solution is to remove, or hollow out the pre-cat. there is a second cat farther down the exhaust, so you'll pass any emission test.
  • ssspsssp Posts: 7
    Just an update:
    I just picked up my new 08 White Frost/blond leather Altima for my :lemon: that I had only for 2 months! Documentation is a wonderful thing. NissanUSA offered the new car at no charge, so I took them up on it!
    I hope that the problems that occurred with the little Precision Grey one :sick: were isolated and a freak of nature.
    Hopefully and prayfully this one will perform as it should...... :D
    Thanks for those who posted responses...that means a lot to this newbie. This is a great site...keep up the great work! :shades:
  • "what do you do to insure that yours isn't one of those 5% if you choose to keep this car? "

    First, you have to be sure that the engine is not too far damaged, and using too much oil. Once it is using more than a quart per 1000 miles, it is probably too late. My daughters 2002 Altima was using about 1 quart in 1500 miles when I worked on it in Decenber 2007. The first Cat blew itself clean and the second Cat was plugged up. Now it is running fine with both Cats hollowed out and a new head gasket. I estimate that it is now using 1 quart of oil in about 2500 to 3000 miles. We don't have an emmisions inspection here in Florida, so we can run it that way. To keep the "Sevice Engine Soon" light from staying on, I put the "$5 02 Cheater", mentioned in previous posts, on the second oxygen sensor, and it works fine, keeps the light off. That's the way to keep the engine running fine, if yours is not too far gone.
    If the engine is too far gone & using too much oil, nothing will fix it but a new engine.
    If you start to get the problem and the engine is not too far gone, and you live in an emissions testing state, you would need to put on a new Precat/Exhaust manifold at the very first sign of the Cat going bad, before the engine is damaged. A new Cat will NOT fix a damaged engine.
    Owners and buyers Beware, Check that CAT at every service and check the oil level often, at least once a week. This is a known problem, so look out for it!
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • pdupuypdupuy Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Altima S, i have had alot of trouble with this car. It has around 109, 000 miles, i recently brought it in for a recall for the crank position sensor and have had nothing but trouble since. I had two sensors replaced 3 weeks ago, now the check engine light is on again and they're saying the code is for the 02 sensor. Is anyone else having these kind of issues? Ready to trade it in but leery of buying another nissan product at this point. Any advice?
  • Your instincts are good, Trade it in for anything but a Nissan. Please read the 264 Posts before of yours to find out why!
  • What has bin rong with your 2004 Nissan Altima bisides the recalls and now the engian light cumming on at 100900 Miles and the dealer telling you that you nead a new oxygen sencer. Probbly one is bad not boath Oxygen sencers. My dad baught a hundai with 90000 Miles that the engian light came on when he got it and it was a bad Oxygen sencer. that does not make a car a lemin or a bad car. you don't have to read all postings on this bord. they dont have anything to do with your car. onnly the 2002 altimas nissan fixed the problem with the pre cat and the Oial consumtion in 2003 and the new altimas are grate cars would trade it in and get a new one. And not think about it for a secand. Hey so a few of every moddle year have sum Problems that is the way it is with all auto Makers. TOyota and HOnda have sum problems even Ford has its problems to look at consumer reports. they are getting bettor slolly but no whair close yet. I have seen problems with new fords Schevy's crisolers every make and moddle has it problems sumtimes. Nissan is one of the best rite next to honda and toyota and Hundai and Kia. Yea I no guys kia and Hundai used to be bad cars not anymore. And I am not just saying all of this Look at consumer reports The only onnest car tester out there all the rest of them are full of them selves. Ok that is enuff for now Thankyou for reading just wanted to tell everyone like it is. Dont believe everything that is posted on the Message bords take everything with a grane of saulte. You dont no if sumone did not do a recall or sumthing. Or they baught the car used and did not see if all recalls wher done on the car before they baught it. That is it for now Have a verry good Day everyone sorry about the spelling Marco.
  • jd10013jd10013 Posts: 779
    actually, the oil consumption problem was fixed as soon as it was recognized. the whole thing is caused by a too rich fuel mixture. the recall to re program the ecm corrects the problem. I'd be willing to bet dollars to doughnuts that the majority of cars experiencing the problem were either:
    1. never had the recall performed
    2. the recall was not done correctly.

    Thats part of the reason I no longer buy used cars. it costs more buying new, but I know exactly what I have, what's been done to it, and how its been treated and maintained.

    as for nissan reliability, I've posted it many times but, I've owned 3 nissan vehicles. 2 long term. my 07 altima is only a year old. my first nissan was a 1990 sentra that I traded in with 220k miles, 12 years old, and still running. the only work that was ever done to it was 1 CV joint, 1 CV boot, brakes, muffler, and an oil pan, though that was because of something the wife ran over :cry: . Plus routine stuff like oil changes and so on. My second nissan was a 1998 200sx (coupe version of sentra). I still own it, have 156k miles on it, drive it to an from work most days (mostly because I get about 38 MPG), and have not had to do any non maintanence work on it. that 9 yr old car with 156k miles on it has had the front brakes done twice, and thats it. the rear drum brakes are original. as are all the belts, hoses, clutch and so on. 2 brake jobs and thats it. and on top of that, the car has never broke down, or failed to start in the morning. It's been 100% perfect, as was the sentra.

    Thats not to say nissan is perfect. I don't know if they've improved things, but nissans have always rusted excessively IMO. Not so much as to shorten their lives, but more than other cars do. Nissan also has about the worst paint/process of any car out there. Its soft, thin, and chips easily.

    but if properly maintained, they will last longer than you need them too.
  • coop0129coop0129 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Nissan Altima 2.5 with all of the recall work performed. I think I may just hollow out my cats sometime in the near future just to do it. I don't want the check engine light on. What can I do to fix that and the light will not come on. I saw that someone said a $5 O2 cheater? What is that? My car has 95000 miles on it. Thanks.
  • jd10013jd10013 Posts: 779
    something like that. the problem with hollowing out, or removing the cat is that there are 2 O2 sensors. one before, and one after the cat. if the both get the same reading, your SES light will come on. I'm not sure if you misspoke, but you said you might hollow out your cats. Don't do both. Its just the first (precat) that can cause problems. It's too close to the engine. the second cat farther down the line will not give you any problems. And, you'll need that second cat to pass inspections. anyhow, here's the link with your options. you can allways get a new header instead of hollowing out.

    link title
  • Why do you want to hollow out your cats, and why BOTH cats? That is drastic action and should not be done unless it REALLY needs to be done. You can't pass an emissions test if you do that. It depends on where you live and what kind of emissions testing that they do, it varies state to state. My state does not have any emissions testing, but yours might.
    I think a problem here is that people wander on to this site and read a message or maybe a few, draw some short conclusions, and make a comment , without really knowing the facts and doing the research. All the answers to what you need to know ARE in this forum, they have been posted over and over again. Please do some research and look for them. You read my post about how I hollowed out my cats, and you just assumed that you should too. Wrong. I hollowed my cats out for a good reason, because they NEEDED to be hollowed out. Few people have that need. Please go back and carefully read posts # 75, #76 & #77, and you will find out why I had to hollow out both my cats & what you need to do. In fact you should go back and read all the posts before yours, as they contain a wealth of information, including the $5 O2 Cheater, how it works and how to install it.
  • I have an 02 Altima, Took it in to the mechanic and it showed that the #1 cylinder there was a misfire.. It stalled at the stop light and hesitates like a misfire on the freeway. Any idea ?
  • That miss could be from a lot of things. Need more info. Do you have the 2.5L 4 cylinder engine? How many miles on the Car? Is the Service Engine Soon light on? Does it miss when you first start up? Does it clear up sometimes and when, if it does? Does it miss the same all the time. Does it vary under different conditions, like cold, hot, fast, slow, braking, accellerating, etc. What else did the mechanic say? If he found the code for the misfire on cylinder #1, didn't he do further diagnosis? I would check ignition fire on all 4 cylinders and to a compression check on all 4 cylinders to start with. Have all the recalls been done? The camshaft sensor and the crankshaft sensor starting to go bad could cause things like that. Has the engine ever got hot? Those engines are sensitive to overheating and the head can warp easily, and when they do, it usually causes a head gasket leak. A head gasket leak will cause an engine cylinder miss. How is the engine coolant, is the coolant reservoir staying full, or do you have to add radiator coolant once in a while? Please elaborate with as much information as possible.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • I have A 2004 Altima, it has no power. I tried the battery in my other car and I heard something frying when i hooked it up. i'm pretty sure I hooked it up right. Maybe i didn't but now even with my original battery in when I try to jump it nothing happens, I get a 0 on the dash and the both turn signal lights on. Any suggestions? I notice what looks like a computer chip or fuse box on the red possitive cable could I have burnt that out? Any help is appreciated
  • fbc1fbc1 Posts: 2
    I'm having the same problems so your not alone! Unfortunately I still owe too much to trade it yet, but I will go back to American vehicles when I'm able. My advice is to do the same.
  • fbc1fbc1 Posts: 2
    Buy American or German!
  • ckeoughckeough Posts: 15
    I have a 05 Altima with the 2.5 engine, 31,500 miles, which I bought used about 6 weeks ago and have put 1200 mile on. Last week the SES light came on and I had Autozone pull the code. The infamous P0-420.

    Yesterday I had a dealer check it out and they found the pre-cat was "coming apart internally" and replaced it under warranty. Hopefully, none or very little material made it into the engine; I'll be keeping watch for oil consumption and hope that any problem with that shows in the next 30K or 2 years while the drive train warranty is in effect.

    So, either the pre-cat was just a bad part or the '02-'03 recall situation will be continuing as all 2.5 reach higher mileage.

    Anyone know if or what changes were made for the 04-06's at address the failure of the pre-cat? I'm thinking none other the the ECM re-programming to maybe lean out the engine.

    Chris
  • jd10013jd10013 Posts: 779
    I'm thinking none other the the ECM re-programming to maybe lean out the engine.

    that's all it really needs. the cat wont deteriorate without gas igniting in there. The problem isn't a faulty cat, or a faulty engine. its unburned gas burning in the cat and tearing it apart. You took your car in as soon as that light came on, a very smart man. unfortunately, most people dont. most people figure they left the gas cap too loose or something, and don't want to spend the $80-100 to get the code reset.
  • kynymackynymac Posts: 1
    Hi all, I am new on this forum and hopefully someone can help me out. I am replacing my intake manifold gasket and have run into some kinks. I am using the Haynes manual as reference for my install. Do I have to take the head & timing chain off to get to the intake manifold? The manual did not make mention of the timing chain so I am at a loss. I am trying to separate the plenum from the head to get to it. Can this be done. Please advise.
  • You did not mention what engine you have, but if you have the I4, the intake is in two pieces.
    First, unbolt the upper manifold and Plenum (all one piece).
    Second, unbolt the lower intake manifold from the back of the engine. There is a bracket under the lower intake that has to be removed.
    To see all the pictures of how to take it apart and put it together, look at the links in messege #182.
    See Teardown Photos #DSC06971 through DSC06980, and see Rebuild Photos #DSC07265 through DSC07270.
    Good luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • puds2002puds2002 Posts: 1
    I have an 2003 Altima and I like you have had various problems. Currently, the 2003 2.5L Altima is having problems with the power valve screws coming loose and going into the cyclinder. I understand that it is a recall on 04 models but Nissan does not want to do anything on the 03 model stating that it does not fall under the recall even though it is the same problem.
  • I HAD a 2002 Altima with lots of problems, Replaced the pre cat, Check engine light stayed on. I took it to the dealer and theyt told me I needed a new engine, I contacted Nissan Headquarters and they did say they were sorry, but nothing they can do, it wasnt a recall issue. I finally did the smart thing, Rather then stress myself out, I got rid of the Altima and bought a used Acura.. Thi s Acura is awesome!!! I would never buy a Nissan again, They dont stand behind there product.. Read Reviews and search the web before you buy~~~
  • Congratulations Smoothride!
  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    I am new to this site and live in Nigeria.I have learnt a lot about this 2002 2.5s Altima that I am afraid to drive it.I bought a used one with 73000miles on it.Its an American spec and so far, no problems except increased noise when i put on the a/c and the horrible suspensions.
    My question is since the emission is not checked where I live is it better to remove the CAT?
    Thanks Onuchukwu Chuma.ndiboy@yahoo.com
    2348033974181.
  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    Thanks for all the assistance.I have critically and painstakenly looked through the pics of the engine tear down, build up as well as the cat unplug, and they are beautiful but not too clear.
    I was expecting to see this cat stuff in one bit, but to no avail.One thing that is not clear to me is the whitish brown material in the container.Is it the stuff that is blocking the exhaust? Then there is another hole there, probably after the plug was removed, please I need more clarification now that I have seen the pics.
    The pre cat, I must confess i didnt see it.I tried looking into the manifold when it was lowered but i couldnt identify anything I could call the cat.I thought the cat will be something big that I will easily see.
    I need these things to be clear because I will like to remove the one in my Altima 2002 car,especially the pre cat,early before any problem starts.Mine is around 76,000miles now.
    ED,I need early and fast response,thanks and God bless you.I want mine to run like your daudhters car!!!!!! I love the car,stay in Nigeria, so if the car develops a problem,it gonna be terrible.
    Chuma.
  • Chuma,
    I'll be glad to help clear things up. Yes, you have a good Idea to remove the pre cat before the problems start, especially since you don't have emissions inspections.
    The best way to refer to the pictures is by NUMBERS, since there are about 700 pictures or more.
    The pre cat is built into the exhaust manifold. The top of the exhaust manifold, as it is being removed, is shown in teardown picture DSC06900. The bottom of the exhaust manifold is shown in teardown pictures DSC06930 through DSC06934, it shows views looking up inside the bottom of the exhaust manifold. Normally you would see the precat there, but in those pictures it is gone, the exhaust manifold is EMPTY. If the precat was there, you would see a screen in the bottom that holds the precat material above it. In this case the screen failed and the screen and all the precat material got blown out of the exhaust manifold and was blown down the exhaust pipe into the SECOND cat. When the material got blown down to the SECOND cat, it plugged up the second cat. That is when I had to remove and unplug the second cat. And yes, that brown and whitish material IS the contents of the SECOND cat plus the contents of pre cat. What happened now is that both cats are hollowed out, the pre cat and the second cat, giving a wide open exhaust, of course it still goes through the muffler, like a regular exhaust.
    Looking at the unplug cat photos, photos DSC06096 & DSC06097 show the old cat material that was removed from the second cat. This contains the material from the pre cat (first cat) and second cat. Then photos DSC06098 through DSC06100 show the hollowed out inside of the second cat after the contents have been removed.
    Photo DSC06087 shows the inside of the second cat BEFORE the contents were removed, the cat is plugged in this picture. What you see is the screen that holds the cat material in place, but the material had got wet and compacted, and the exhaust gas could not flow through it. The cat normally works by allowing the exhaust gas to pass through the cat material and then through the screen and then on to the muffler. The purpose of the screen is to hold the cat material in place. Once ithe cat pluggs up, it's no good anymore unless you unplug it or replace it. Unplugging the second was fairly easy once I had it off the car, just use a hammer and a metal punch or small diameter piece of pipe to hammer the stuff out.
    If you look into the bottom of the pre cat, you should see a screen just like in photo DSC 06087, unless the material has already blown out. You could clean out the pre cat the same way, break the screen and material out with a piece of small diameter pipe and a hammer. I think you should be able to hollow out the pre cat from under the car by removing the exhaust pipe and breaking out the material through the bottom opening, but be careful to not damage the oxygen sensors. It is best to remove the second oxygen sensor before you attempt to break the material out of the pre cat. You can run the engine for just a few seconds to blow the loose material out of the precat. After the pre cat is hollowed out, the service engine soon light will come on shortly thereafter, because the SECOND oxygen sensor will read the SAME as the FIRST oxygen sensor. To avoid this, you will need to add the O2 cheater at the SECOND oxygen sensor to make it read differently and for the light to stay off.
    Hope this helps,
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida USA
  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    Good morning, well its morning in Nigeria, probably not where you are.I read your notes while watching the pics and its so much clear now.Pics DSC6932-34 contains a whitish ring like a loop opposite the O2 sensor ,I wander what that is.
    You mean the hollow in the cat unplug pics DSC06098-100 is all that the exhaust gas needs to move out?.
    Before I go further, I want to let you know someother things.I have been really afraid for this car because before and since I bought I have been reading a lot about it, Camry and Accords on the net, reviews etc The reviews have been that of mixed feelings for all the cars so I decided to go with this with this innate fear.The engine looks new and clean for a 73,000miles car so I was wandering is this not one of those the engine has been worked on and sent to Nigeria?.
    One sunday morning,about 2 months ago, I started the Car and after some seconds i heard a sound like something has dislodged inside the bonnet and i thought it was the cat since I have read several reviews of it coming off and damaging the engine.I was already looking foward to the engine dying but the noise stopped as if the stuff has dislodged and off we drove to church and till now nothing has happened.I change the oil every 3months with 4litres, and the filter every 6months and the oil level remains the same.
    Is there a way of knowing if the pre cat has been removed? Do they remove it before sending the cars to Nigeria?
    When I bought the car, the service engine light was on and I complained because of the reviews I read on the net about it.Later since it was not giving any problems and many cars down here show that, I ignored it.I changed the oil and filter, it still remained but after taking it out on a journey of about 500km I noticed the SES light has gone off.It remained off until about 3 mths later when it came on.I always turn the fuel cap several times after refuelling.I serviced it again ie changed the oil,the light remained.Now I travelled again about the same distance as the previous one and noticed that the SES light has gone off again(2weeks ago), and has remained off till now.My question now is can one use the light to gauge when to change the oil?
    I am presently on a cross country journey in the Niger Delta area and will be here in the next one month so I will try and remove the pre cat when I get home.
    Since you said the engine is good when you had a look at it,will you recommend it for somebody? since every car has its own fault.
    The noise I heard that sunday,can it be the pre cat dislodging?My only observation is that when the car is idling, if you rev it there is a little drag between the idle tachometer level(0.5) and 2.0, but its not felt when the automatic gear is engaged.You know this car so much that If I were in your position, I will erk out some living from it.
    Thanks for your concern and prompt response, its highly appreciated and looking foward to response to the questions raised above.
    Chuma.
  • PART ONE of TWO
    Q. "Pics DSC6932-34 contains a whitish ring like a loop opposite the O2 sensor ,I wander what that is."
    A. There are two whitish rings in picture DSC06932, they are the outer ring support for the screens. The lower screen ring is in place just above the oxygen sensor. The outer ring is all that is left, the screen is blown out, missing. You can also see the upper screen ring, with missing screen, it has blown loose and is visible at an angle. It is suppose to be out of sight farther up at the top of the precat, but because it has blown loose, you can see it in the picture.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - --------------------------------------
    Q. "You mean the hollow in the cat unplug pics DSC06098-100 is all that the exhaust gas needs to move out?"
    A. No, that is the SECOND CAT hollowed out. I needed to hollow out the second cat because it became totally plugged up. Your first priority is to hollow out the FIRST CAT (the pre cat), that is where the problem arises that destroys the engine. Your second cat is probably ok If the second cat is not plugged, I would recommend that you leave it alone. Only hollow out the SECOND CAT if you need to.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - --------------------------------------
    Q. "The engine looks new and clean for a 73,000miles car so I was wandering is this not one of those the engine has been worked on and sent to Nigeria?"
    "Since you said the engine is good when you had a look at it,will you recommend it for somebody? since every car has its own fault."
    A. The Nissan 2.5L I4 engine is a very good and solid engine design. The basic engine is very reliable, the only problem was this exhaust systen flaw that was messing up some of the engines, and the root cause of the whole thing is that the computer was allowing a slightly too rich mixture in the exhaust, which in turn causes the deterioration of the pre cat. The real solution is to have the computer memory "reflashed" or "upgraded" to eliminate the root cause of the problem. But on a used car, it is also good to hollow out the pre cat because it is likely that damage to the pre cat is already being done, and that damage to the engine is likely to follow, if something is not done about it.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - -------------------------------------
    Q. "One sunday morning,about 2 months ago, I started the Car and after some seconds i heard a sound like something has dislodged inside the bonnet and i thought it was the cat since I have read several reviews of it coming off and damaging the engine.I was already looking foward to the engine dying but the noise stopped as if the stuff has dislodged and off we drove to church and till now nothing has happened.I change the oil every 3months with 4litres, and the filter every 6months and the oil level remains the same."
    A. Over here we have "Hoods" instead of "Bonnets". You could have the second big problem that those engines have, the "Butterfly valve screws coming loose and getting sucked into the engine" I have not had this problem yet. When I had my daughters engine apart, the screws were still tight. These are also called "Power Valve" screws, they are located inside the INTAKE manifold. Two small screws hold each butterfly valve onto the shaft, there are 4 butterfly valves (one for each cylinder), total of 8 screws. There are know to come loose and fall out. when they do, they have no place to go but get sucked into the engine. Once in the engine, they bounce around inside the clyinder, and can cause much damage, or if you are lucky, maybe not to much. It is just a matter of how the screw happens to bounce around in the cylinder, before finally getting blown out past the exhaust valve. The bouncing screw can bend or break the spark plug, score the clyinder walls, crack the head, crack the piston, or crack or bend the valves or valve seats. To fix these, the intake manifold has to be removed, then the screws removed and then cemented tightly back in place or cement new screws back in place.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - -----------------------------------
    Q. "I change the oil every 3months with 4litres, and the filter every 6months and the oil level remains the same."
    A. I would suggest that you change the oil filter at each oil change. How often you change oil depends on the miles, type of driving, and road conditions. Idling is harder on the engine, as well as dusty roads. Our Altima is driven in mixed City and Highway on clean roads, so I change oil and filter every 5,000 miles, using high quality Mobil One Synthetic Motor oil 10W-30 and a Purolator "Pure One" synthetic motor oil filter. 5,000 miles works out to be about every 4 months for us. It gets a new air filter every 15,000 miles and an Automatic Transmission Fluid Flush every 60,000 miles.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - ----------------------------------------
    Q. "Is there a way of knowing if the pre cat has been removed? Do they remove it before sending the cars to Nigeria?"
    A. The only way to know for sure is to pull the exhaust pipe loose from the bottom of the exhaust manifold and look up inside and see if it is there. It is most likely that yours would still be there.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - ----------------------------------------
    Q. "When I bought the car, the service engine light was on and I complained because of the reviews I read on the net about it.Later since it was not giving any problems and many cars down here show that, I ignored it.I changed the oil and filter, it still remained but after taking it out on a journey of about 500km I noticed the SES light has gone off.It remained off until about 3 mths later when it came on.I always turn the fuel cap several times after refuelling.I serviced it again ie changed the oil,the light remained.Now I travelled again about the same distance as the previous one and noticed that the SES light has gone off again(2weeks ago), and has remained off till now.My question now is can one use the light to gauge when to change the oil?"
    A. The check the SES Light, you need to read the codes with a Code Reader or Scanner, or have them by someone. Once you know what the code is, you use logical thought and mechanical skill to determine what the problem is and how to repair it. There are a lot of codes and it must be diagnoised properly.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - ----------------------------------------
    God Bless
    E.D. in Sunny Florida, USA
  • PART TWO of TWO
    Q. "You know this car so much that If I were in your position, I will erk out some living from it."
    A. I don't need anything from this car. I have a good job at an engineering firm. I Only got so involved with this one because it is my daughters car, so I do all that I can to help her. I have worked on cars all my life, I've always been a car buff and motorcyle buff. I have worked as a professional mechanic in my younger days, but I retired from that. I still do all my own work on all my cars because I don't trust others, I do better work than them, I know exactly what is done and document all my work with paperwork and photos. My reward comes from having very reliable vehicles to drive (I have 3) and helping others, like you.

    God Bless,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida, USA
  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    Thanks a lot once again and God bless you!!1 for all the information.Well we make do with what we have down here.We dont have all the big gadgets for the diagnosis and thats why one needs to be careful because all the mechanics do here is mostly trial and error.
    One more clarification,the car drives rough especially especially the owners side when it enters pot hole.It also shifts as if its gonna stumble when it enters pot hole.Is this a stabilizing rod or shock absorber problem? as i am already planning on getting one for a change.
    I will keep the pics and show my mechanic what to do as i dont want him to mess up the stuff.
    Thanks once more.
    Chuma.
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