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Dodge Dakota Climate Control

17891113

Comments

  • Can anybody tell me where the resistor is located thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I am assuming you are asking about the blower-motor resistor. Keep in mind that the resistor itself is mounted inside the air-plenum so the flowing air can keep it cool. Without airflow, it would run red-hot and burn up quickly.

    Depends on what year you Dak is... but on my 2000 it is under the Dash behind the glovebox. One electrical plug and 2 screws and it comes right out. The part costs about $15.

    This webpage may help you out.
  • I have a 01 Dakota with the 4.7. recently it stopped blowing hot air, just warm. i have replaced the thermostat, and it worked great.. for a week. did i do something wrong or did something else go bad?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It sure sounds as if you have air trapped in the system.

    The 4.7 L semi-hemi can be tricky to "burp" all the air out of the cooling system. There is a special air-valve located at the highest point of the system to assist in "burping" the air out.

    Dont forget to check the resivour regularly for about a month. Each time the engine cools, it will suck in more antifreeze.
  • terrys2terrys2 Posts: 24
    First make sure the coolant is full. Don't rely on the reservoir level. Take the radiator cap off when cold and be sure the radiator is full. If the cap is bad or if there is a leak in the hose to the reservoir it will not draw coolant back into the radiator when the engine cools off. Also if you had an air pocket when you filled it up you could have been low on coolant from the start.
    Then with the engine at operating temp. and the heater on high both heater hoses should be hot. If one is cool the heater core may be plugged or if it has a heater control valve it may not be all the way open.
    It is also possible that your blend door is not operation properly. You could have a bad thermostat. Not likely but possible.
  • I have the same problem with the vents in my 1999 Dakota except when not under load, all works fine. When accelerating, all face vents go to defrost. I assume its related to vacuum . Did you find a solution? I could not find where anyone answered your thread. Thanks TOm
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Not sure if this is related, but most cars I'm familiar with (our Dodge minivans being a prime case), when the engine is under load (accelerating), the AC compressor disengages and the HVAC system switches over to recirculate, so as to not pull hot air into the vehicle. I don't remember if, when this happens, the HVAC goes to defrost mode or not.
  • terrys2terrys2 Posts: 24
    This sounds like a bad check valve on a vaccum reservoir.
  • seabee92seabee92 Posts: 1
    Today I changed out the waterpump on my 2001 3.9l Dodge Dakota Quad cab. Overall it wentt farly easy until it came time to start it up and admire the handywork I had done.Upon starting it I noticed temp gauge till the check engine light came on. I shut the truck off and checked the expansion tank which hadplenty of fluid in it. I have looked all over the internet and dixcovered the art of burping the cooling system. Every site talked about opening a bleeder. I have yet to locate this bleeder I have been letting the enigine run till the temperature creeps half walf between the midway and heat line in the hopes that whatever air is there will bleed out.Is there another way or a better way of doing this.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Anytime I've had to bleed a cooling system, I just used the radiator cap. Start with the engine cold, open the cap, and start the engine up. Make sure the heating/cooling system controls are set so that coolant is circulating through the heater core also. Let the engine run until the thermostat opens up and the engine tries to reach normal operating temperature (which it may not do with the cap off and the system unpressurized). Any air bubbles should find their way to the radiator and escape via the open cap.

    Let the engine cool down and top off the coolant. May have to repeat this a couple of times.
  • redeldo1redeldo1 Posts: 1
    Does anyone know if the 2001 Dakota SLT has a cabin filter and if so where is it located?

    Thanks
    Wayne
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I dont think it has one.
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 416
    edited July 2010
    okay bruce, after 200k on my 2000 quad cab, i FINALLY am having some weirdness with it. as you may recall, it's never been in the shop for anything other than a routine synthetic oil or tranny fluid change. i did have the rear-end checked /lubed once. 6 sets of tires too, rotors turned, then i replaced them myself. lol anyway, my a/c is doing hinky things now. as you may recall, i've got the semi-hemi and the extra duty cooling package, etc. on one of the very first of the delivered quads in Texas. came off the first trainload.
    i recently had a drop off in a/c efficiency. i've always run it on high a/c-high fan setting here in the 'dry tropics' of w. texas. sooooo, i got the a/c refill bottle thingy, went through the refill process watching the gauge drop nicely into the green, using about half a bottle, noticed the cooling efficiency improve in the cab as well. everything nice and tidy. until just the other day. and now it just blows warm air. not hot, but warm. about what it was doing before i added the 134a. okay, leak right? well, not so fast.
    oddly, the a/c compressor runs normally, fan blows normally and what's really weird is that when i hook the bottle back up to the low pressure port, it is solidly in the green, so apparently it's got a good charge of juice. hmmmmm... fan works, switches are all good, compressor works (not cycling, just on or off), yet temps are warm. turn the temp up to 'hot' and it'll fry your (hot dog) weenie. just no cold air.

    any ideas on this little mystery?

    jack b :-) in midland, tx usa

    coincidentally, we've got an 04 lincoln LS that has about 50k on it. it's just started blowing ice cold only (max low setting only) - no heat. i think we've figgered that'n out, but it happened at the same time. w. tx. just kills a/c units!
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Seals internal to the compressor???
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 416
    interesting thought. still wondering about that 'full charge.' you know, now that i've thought about it a bit more, for the first 160k or so it often whistled when it started cooling, and then quit (but kept cooling nicely). in fact my kids used to call my truck 'the whistler.' i'd forgotten about that. it was a high pitched whistle that just tapered off and then quit, but it didn't always do it and cooled well, so i just left it alone.
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 416
    bled a little hot air out of the low pressure port, then put in about 18 oz. of 134a (19 oz. arctic freeze brand for $45). it cooled the inlet pipe down just briefly, but not much out of the dash vents. the clutch is cycling normally, and the blower blows strong and correctly at all speeds. the gauge reads 55 psi and then goes down to 20 psi or so when the clutch kicks in, rising in about 10 seconds back up to 55 psi. this cycles over and over. still warm air, when i turn the temp knob up it rapidly heats the vent air, so the blender must be working. the horn-a/c bus is good as the horn toots fine. cant' see any leaks or evidence that there's ever been one. still a mystery...
    jack b :-)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It sounds as if you have coverd most of the bases.... however, a *real* A/C guy would hook up guages to BOTH the high and low side. Simply by observing the behavious of the guages, (and the temparture of the compressur-inlet pipe) he could diagnose WHATEVER is wrong with the system. (freon-charge state, plugged airflow thru evaporator, reciever-drier issue, ice buildup within system... etc)

    I know the above to be true because I have cousin who does A/C work for a living and have seen him diagnose A/C problems by using ONLY those 3 connections (High pressure, Low pressure, and compresser-inlet temp)

    I would say that your best approach is to find someone who has those skills.

    HOWEVER: Before doing that, I would personally verify that the pressure-switches on the high and low side are working as expected. It is the pressure-switches which control the A/C clutch and cutout.

    Be aware, the ONLY way your system could have needed freon is because it leaked out in the first place. I am suspecting you do have some kind of leak.
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 416
    thanks bruce. i figgered 'bout as much, but wanted to see what i could fix on my own since i have superierre rv mechanicalizing skillz. i can use duck tape and vise grips with the best of em. ;-)=
    update: i put another 6 or so oz. in it (about 24 oz. total, after burping the hot air out a few times), and it cooled down ever so slightly, not much at all. another oddity is a noise, similar to a clothes pinned playing card in bicycle spokes. if y'all aren't familiar with that sound, then you don't need to be reading any further. for those of you that do, you'll understand the duck tape 'n vise grips comment...
    anyway, the noise just increases with fan speed, and it's definitely coming from the blend box in front of the front seat passenger's feet. i unscrewed a few screws, and wiggling the box cover changes the sound noticeably. uh oh.
    pro'lly gonna leave it for the a/c guys downtown.
    i've got other stuff that needs attention on it more than that, particularly an odd 'cutting out' situation that's just developed. i'll go through the connectors, dirty distributor, etc. list before i get back on here and whine about it. speaking of rv's, my onan has quit putting out current on our smaller telstar motorhome, sooooo on to that little nuisance. gotta have it runnin' by manana evenin' or there'll be hell to pay!

    jack b :-) in midland, tx usa
  • Have you tried replacing the blower motor resistor (BMR)? It's about $15.00 here in the comfy, summer temperatues of San Antonio. I was vactioning during the summer in New MX and Colorado when mine went out. At first it blew warm air. Then the speed significantly reduced on my blower fan. Eventually, High speed just quit. I researched the crap out of it on the net and found that a cheap fix might be the BMR. Location: if you were sitting in the passenger seat, right above your feet, there is a small panel on the bottom of the blower motor. Kind of hard to get at, but an easy fix once you do. 2 screws, drop down, may need to move the vent, unhook old BMR insert new BMR, replace unit, replace screws. You have to snap the little plastic tabs off of the ends of the BMR housing or else it won't fit into place. It's cheap, fairly easy and if you haven't replaced it in 200,000 mi, it can't hurt to do it. It's lifetime warranteed too. I bought mine at A.Z. Good luck and hope this helps. Love my 01 Dakota quad cab SLT at 130,000 mi and going strong.
    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Blower-Motor-Resistor/2001-Dodge- -Dakota-2WD/_/N-jf9dqZ91tag?counter=0&itemIdentifier=794687_0_3330_
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 416
    you know what? actually, i haven't. i've seen it discussed here and there, but since the blower was working 'okay' i haven't noticed that it's slowing down on high speed, but i went out and checked it, and it seems to be a bit less air than it used to be. when i get back to civilization in a coupla weeks i'll replace the thing. thanks for the response, and it won't hurt to do it, as you say, since it's got 200k on it, and i'll likely never sell it.
    you might or might not have been around this group back in 2000 when we started it up, but i actually autocrossed my quad when it was new. won several trophies as well, then 'retired it' to the field for about 5-6 years of hard work and 130+ mile per day commuting. it still looks new, now has a camper shell on it, and i replaced the r/t wheels i'd put on it for the originals (more rubber for a smoother ride).
    i'll let you know if the resistor fixes it. still flummoxed as to why it just blows warm air. jack b :-) in midland, tx usa
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