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Dodge Dakota Climate Control



  • I posted a question in post #202, My ignition switch was in fact bad. My truck started fine and ran fine, but the blower wasn't running. The tumblers were good. The truck didn't have to be rekeyed, but the cheap ignition switch module did have to be replaced. It works fine now.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I fully understand the "clothes pinned playing card in bicycle spokes" sound. It is very good description.

    I assume you realize that something is physically touching the squirril-cage fan of the blower. I have had to take these apart a couple times over the years because of such a noise. All I can tell you is that I have found everything from dry-leaves to dead mice.

    Your only recourse is to access the blower-motor. There should be several screws holding it on...the squirril-cage fan should come out attached to the motor.
  • The AC blower motor on my 2001 Dodge Dakota 2wd 4.7 V8 works great. I lowered it from under the dash and it runs great on all 4 settings. However when it is installed there is no air blowing from the vents on the side of the dash and only a small amount from the vents beside the radio and ac control panel. The air that does blow out is cold but is weak at best. The gate that regulates external and recirculated air on MAX was stuck half way open when i removed the blower motor and cage but I messed with it and now it works fine. Is there an electrical component that works the internal gates for the vents on my dash that are not working that i can replace to fix this?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Those flappers within the air-plemum may be VACUUM operated. You may have a weak vacuum-signal to them.
  • I have never had the dash off of this truck. Knock on wood it now has 323,000 miles and it is running really good. I would love to get my moneys worth out of it. Oh i did buy it new. :) But seriously, can you put that in shade tree terms. Where are the VACUUM lines? Are they behind the control panel I would assume? and you also said vacuum-signal. Is that a signal from a hose or from an electrical componant? I did see on another forum that another guy had the same problem and it turned out his evaporator core was clogged with dirt. I was able to get a peek at mine and it was filthy. I did spray foaming coil cleaner on it and it did help some but the flappers still do not seem to be all the way open. Any ideas???
  • mine is a 2000 model, so naturally it doesn't fit. it did fit my business partner's 2001 though, so thanks! my part number is 'cr152' and it's about 30 bux. don't know where it goes as it looks different, but it's not my a/c problem anyway, so i won't need it right now. thanks though...
  • I have a 2002 Dodge Dakota SXT 4x4 that is not blowing air at all. I turn the knob and nothing. It quick working and then about a week later I turned the knob and it started working. That lasted about a day then quit again and has not worked since. Any suggestions?
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    If it's not working on any speed, either the switch is intermittent or you have a flaky connection somewhere.

    If it doesn't work on anything but the highest speed, than it may be the resistor that's used to drop the voltage to the blower motor and thus reduce the fan speed.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited October 2010
    This has been asked and answerd about 100 times in these forums... the "search" button would have given you an answer pretty quickly.

    HINT: blower resister - part costs under $20

    Again, the 'search' function will tell you WHERE it is located and HOW to replace it.
  • I have a 2000 dakota slt quad cab, 4.7, 103,000 miles. The a/c works fine for 15 minutes and then blows warm stale air. This will happen every time i use the truck. Guages show freon levels are good. Now that it is winter, the heat blows fine for 15 minutes, then blower still works but sounds louder(deeper) and flow of air is much less. Air is warm(not hot). Any suggestions??

    Thank you
  • I have a 2000 dakota slt quad cab, 4.7, 103,000 miles. The a/c works fine for 15 minutes and then blows warm stale air. This will happen every time i use the truck. Guages show freon levels are good. Now that it is winter, the heat blows fine for 15 minutes, then blower still works but sounds louder(deeper) and flow of air is much less. Air is warm(not hot). Any suggestions??

    Thank you
  • 2006 Dodge Dakota (75,000 mi)- Two intermittent problems:

    1. When I change selector from floor to dash (actually any change), a loud clicking sound starts from the middle of the dash, and may or maynot stop after a while.

    2. Fan speed varies although the speed control has not been touched.

    Any ideas would be appreciated, 'cause I love my truck except for this, thanks
  • I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota (3.7L). My air blower just quit today. I was hoping it was a fuse but I pulled all of them and none seemed to be blown. I am pretty sure that I am feeling a trickle of cool air so I think the aircon unit is working.

    Does anyone have any suggestions before I bite the bullet and go to a dealer?

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Suspect the blower-resister... it is a very-VERY common item to burn out. The blower-resister is used to provide the various "speeds" of the blower. (more resistance = lower voltage = slower motor speed)

    Last I knew, a replacement is about 12 bucks. (plus a few minutes to access the burnt one to replace it.)
  • larryfastlarryfast Posts: 2
    Hi, my 2000 dakota just started with this same problem. Could you tell me how you fixed yours or do I have to take it in. Thank-you, Larry
  • larryfastlarryfast Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota. The bearings or clutch at the front of the compresser by the pulley are shot. Can I repair this myself or do I have to take it in.

    Thank you,

  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    You can certainly replace the entire compressor unit yourself. If you do, you will have to get the system recharged/purged.

    I do not know if the clutch and/or bearings themselves are replaceable or not. If you take it to any repair shop, I'm betting they will replace the entire compressor unit anyway.
  • Vehicle: 2002 Dakota 4.7 L SLT. My AC blower fan was only working on high about six weeks ago, so I replaced the resistor as suggested in the online forums. The fan worked properly for about 5 weeks, then stopped working at all speeds.

    After a couple of days of wondering why this happened I decided i may have connected something improperly so i reached under the dash and wiggled the connector on the resistor. To my surprise (and delight) the fan came on and functioned normally again…for about ten minutes. Then it stopped working again.

    As the very busy person I am (aren’t we all?), i wiggled again, the fan came back to life, and I made a mental note to “look at” the connection and see where it was loose. This went on for four days; fan quits, driver wiggles plug, fan starts. I got very adept at doing this even while driving (not recommended).

    On day five, shortly after the wiggle, i noticed a “melting plastic” smell filling the cab. Upon reaching down to wiggle yet again I realized the wires to the plug were the source of the smell. They were hot enough to burn me when I touched them. After letting everything cool off, I removed the “new resistor” and noticed it was burned in one pin of the plug, plus the insulation was burned off the wire going to that plug for about a half-inch. I though maybe I had gotten a bad resistor so I bought another and plugged it in. When I turned on the fan, the wire started heating up again (it did this in all fan positions).

    I'm at the point now where I’ve pulled the blower motor but want to test it before i shell out $100 to replace it. Anyone have any suggestions? The standard auto parts stores dont have a way of testing the blower motor. It runs fine until the wiring heats up so i don;t know if it’s getting bad and starting to draw too many amps or if there is a wiring problem I need to track down. Thanks for any help!
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    You could have just had a bad/higher-than-normal-resistance connection, which by itself would cause heating through I^2*R loss. These connections usually don't heal themselves, but rather they get progressively worse over time. If that's what your situation was, I'm not surprised that the connector melted from the heat.
  • terrys2terrys2 Posts: 24
    Common problem with bad connection/high resistance in the blower connection. You can buy a new connector from Dodge and splice it into the wiring.
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