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Dodge Dakota Climate Control

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Comments

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    If it smells like ethylene-glycol (anti-freeze) and it's coming from the heater/defroster system, I would speculate that you have a leaking heater core. Unfortunately, by age and year of your Dakota it wasn't an unusual problem.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • habfan1habfan1 Posts: 1
    hello i have a dodge dakota 2003 could u tell me where the
    blower motor resistor is locate please.inside or underneath the hood please.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    May I suggest you consider using the SEARCH function to get an answer to this often-asked question.

    HINT: It is behind the glovebox.
  • zg1286zg1286 Posts: 2
    When running Ac, it cools good for about 15-20 min and then starts blowing hot air. If I shut it off for about 10-15 min, blows cold air again and will do the same thing. Charge is good and compressor is working.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I assume that you opened the hood while idling and visually observed the AC clutch is cycling... If so, it sounds like AC system is "freezing up".

    If clutch is NOT cycling, then focus on why it is not.
  • teneubecteneubec Posts: 2
    2002 dodge dakota 3.9 v6. ac don't work, & air only comes out the vent outlets on the dashboard. Someone said check out the "mode door actuator". I just changed the blower resistor because it would only work on high, that's OK now. wondering where is the mode door actuator? & if it is near the resistor, could I have done something to creat this other problem while changing the resistor?
  • djkeensdjkeens Posts: 2
    Howdy all,

    I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota 3.9L. Recently I started hearing this squealing noise intermittently (like metal on metal grinding). Shortly after that my A/C quit putting out cold air so I obviously figured it to be my compressor. Due to time constraints I attempted to get a belt without A/C to bypass the compressor. To my displeasure, the belt doesn't seem to fit as I've fought with it for 2 hours and came no where near getting the belt on. We'll the good news is, when I pulled the original belt off I was able to mess with the A/C compressor pully and sure enough, it's hopping around on the "spindle" so obviously the bearings or whatever is in there is bunk. My question is this, can I replace the pully or whatever it is by itself or do I need to replace the entire compressor? If I can, is it fairly easy or am I better off taking it to a mechanic? Obviously I'm a novice (amateur really) but I am a helicopter mechanic so I can usually do auto repair with the right instruction. I'd prefer to do it myself for experience sake but I don't want to spend all day fixing it. Thanks for your time and any help is greatly appreciated. Ciao!
  • shane77shane77 Posts: 1
    Today when i went to fill my A/C i noticed it needed to be done because the compressor was kicking on and off. So i filled it and the compressor constantly ran. I got COLD air. When i drove for 20 miles the air was warm again. I checked the fitting and noticed a small hiss, and oil around the fitting. I need to know how i can get that little valve replaced in there so i can get it recharged. I had someone check the system and there is no leaks accept that fitting. And i cannot remember even the name for that little spring valve.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. It is HUMID! in chicago.

    Have a great day.
  • urban3urban3 Posts: 74
    '01 QC 4.7L w/70K and recently experiencing no cold air from the AC. No apparent leaks under the hood when check by a mobile ac tech. Compressor and electric fan appear operating normal. Freon added and was good for another month, then no cold air again.

    Freon added again with leak sealer added (hail mary). Good for one week. Probably the evaporator?

    Any recommendations on other checks or cost or replacing evaporator. (I know it's behind the dash and a big job)

    Thanks.
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Posts: 57
    Had the evaporator replaced last Sep on my 2K Dak by a dealer in central PA at a cost $973. About $600 was labor, luckily my extended warranty paid for it.

    Ron
  • I have a 3.9L 5 speed Reg. Cab Dakota. When starting up, if I don't change my vent setting air blows like it should. While driving if I change vent setting it either does not completely move to the new setting or does move, but shortly seems to move off the new setting. Can hear the air blowing, but is not coming out of the vents very well. Have replaced the control panel and problem still exists. I know from the control panel that the vent setting adjustment is vacuum controlled. From reading this forum it may be the "blend door" is not operating like it should. Is this door located in the Heater - A/C Housing and does the the entire housing have to come out to repair this if it is the problem? Are there some simpler things I can try before having to do this?
  • terrys2terrys2 Posts: 24
    The blower will not run on any speed. Fuses are ok. Bolwer runs when I put 12v to it. I checked the 2 prong connector coming to the blower. One terminal lights a test light. The other does not have continuity to ground. I pulled the resister card. With it plugged in all legs have continuity to ground. How can you test or by pass the resister card to see if it is bad? I am not sure but maybe the fan switch is bad. I cannot see how to get the fan switch out.
    Any help will be appreciated.
  • terrys2terrys2 Posts: 24
    Problem solved. With the resistor card plugged in to the wiring harness all legs did have continuity to ground. I could not get the plug to come off the resistor card. Looking carefully at the plug one of the wires had the insulation slightly melted and there was a tiny bit of green corrosion on the wire. It appears that one connection was bad and had burned it's self in to. There was no continuity from that wire to the resistor. When I jumpered from the wire to the resistor terminal all fan speeds work fine. Although the resistor card seems to be fine I can't get it off of the connector so I bought a new resistor card and ordered a new plug. Resistor $10 and plug $12.
    As a band aid I crammed 2 pieces of .032" stainless steel safety in the bad terminal and all speeds work fine for now. This might keep working until Tuesday when the new plug is supposed to be here. :)
  • dodgetrukndodgetrukn Posts: 116
    My 2 cents. I had changed my blower motor resistor a while back when my fan stopped at all speeds on my 2001 quad, 4.7l. That was probably over a yr ago. 3 weeks ago I went to run an errand and again NO fan speed when I went to use my AC. I pulled my replacement resistor pack out and also seen melted plastic at the connector. Both the connector and resistor pack where a little melted together. I had to file off some melted plastic and sanded up the resistor block pins which were also a bit green/corroded. I re-installed the resistor block and the fan works at all speeds again. I really believe when I first replaced the resistor block it sounded like the fan was blowing harder at full speed, ie: more current. I now don't leave my fan on full, knowing that would be the max current going through certain pins as I don't want to create a potential problem knowing that this electrical connection could lead to overheating/fire. Perhaps I'll be ordering the car connector to the resistor block also to avoid a future problem. Ger
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    This is a problem showing up on now older Dakotas.

    There are five wires going to the Blower Resistor. Two of them on the very end of the connector are larger gauge wire. What you will typically see is that the end pin in the connector shows signs of copper corrosion. If you inspect the two heavy gauge terminals you will see that some of the stands are broken.

    I believe that as the wire deteriorates at the terminal crimp, conductance loss causes the terminal in the connector to over heat. Hence the melted plastic from the resistor pack usually drips down into the mating connector and causes further intermittent connection problems.

    Chrysler has a repair kit issued (5017124-AA), but to my eye the large wires supplied in the kit are not the same gauge as the two heavy wires in the harness connector. I've seen this repair last about a year, then the same thing happens again. I'm hoping that by now they have a better fix. Mine is starting to loose the fan intermittently ( '03, 85,000 miles).

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • terrys2terrys2 Posts: 24
    Dusty:
    That is the part # for the repair kit they sold me. It came 2 different wire sizes. I will be sure to use the larger wires. How do you get the connector apart to put the new terminals in the new connector?
  • I've got a 96 Dakota on which the A/C compressor wasn't working. In messing around with it, I discovered I could cause it to briefly come on by wiggling the relay switch. I figured the relay was bad so I switched it out with another that was working but still had the same problem. I unhooked the wires going to the relay and by connecting them directly and bypassing the switch can get the compressor to run. Anyone have any ideas on what the problem is and how to fix it?

    Thanks
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    You don't. A special tool is required to disassemble the connector shell itself.

    The connector pin-end of the wires are simply inserted into the rear of the connector body. When fully seated they lock themselves into the shell.

    You will notice that the connector in the kit has a thin rubber membrane seal that wasn't on the original connector. This is a moisture shield to prevent premature corrosion of the wires at the terminal crimp. Believe it or not but moisture from inside the cab contributes corrosion of the pins.

    As to the blower being an issue, I'm not sure. I've worked on two of these and other people suggested that the blower motor was drawing too much current, thus taking out the blower resistor and/or overheating the wires. Maybe, but after being involved with two motor replacements I am convinced that the old motors were not the problem.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • terrys2terrys2 Posts: 24
    Thanks Dusty. I thought the terminal was to big to go through the seal but it went in just fine. Would a little dielectric grease be a good idea to put in the terminals?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Yes, its probably a good idea. Problems start when moisture attacks the copper wire and subsequent resistance inserts a resistance in the electrical path. In the high position where the blower draws the most current, current begins to heat the wire which starts a spiral event.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    The connector and wire repair kit that Chrysler's issued (5017124-AA) to repair burnt terminals and wires to the Blower Motor contains 14 gauge (orange) wire and 16 gauge (purple) wires.

    Unfortunately, the problem is the wires that carry current to the motor when in the maximum fan speed position. Basically when the blower is at its highest speed, there is no resistance inserted into the circuit. Switched resistance is used to reduce current flow for the slower fan speeds.

    The wire that comes from the motor (pin 2) and the ground wire for the fan circuit (pin 1) are both 12 gauge in the harness. When using the aforementioned repair kit the largest gauge wire supplied are five orange 14 gauge wires. This wire will not be enough to carry the current when the blower is in the highest output position.

    I've been using butt connectors to make this repair instead of the splices supplied with the kit. The Dodge techs are telling me that in addition to using the brass crimps in the kit, the wires should be soldered to ensure a absolute connection, and the service manual does indicate that this is the correct method of repair.

    I would argue that an adequately rated butt connector will be sufficient, however because of the design of these connectors it is not uncommon to end up with a minute amount of insertion loss due to resistance unless the butt connector connection is perfect. At lower currents it won't be a problem, but at 15 amperes .1 ohms of inserted resistance could generate some heat especially when the fan is operated in the high position for long periods.

    Since corrosion due to moisture seems to be the contributing factor, soldering these splices does make sense. However, I'm still firmly convinced that a short length of 14 gauge wire used in the high output circuit is still going to cause a problem long term.

    I'm going to contact the Tech Line in the next few days to discuss this issue some more.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • terrys2terrys2 Posts: 24
    I did not like the connectors that came with the kit so I used non insulated butt connectors. I have the proper crimping tool for them so the connections are good. To be sure I always solder the connections. Since the 14 guage wire is so short compared to the length of 12 guage wire in the harness hopefully the additional resistance for about 4 inches of 14 guage will not be a problem. It is back together and working for now. Only time will tell. Thanks for the great information Dusty. :)
  • Hello All,
    I am by no means a car or truck person meaning I am not knowledgeable about anything if something goes wrong. However, about two months ago I was driving down the road and the A/C went out. I had no idea what the problem was and I was hoping it was not the compressor. Long story short, it ended up being the fuse that controlled the horn and the A/C clutch. The fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and it also needed a freon charge. They put dye in it just in case, but the A/C is working great again. I am fairly certain this helps none of you, but just sharing.

    Take care.
  • My 02 Quad's blower motor has stopped working. A repair manual I have said to check the voltage at the harness. With the key on (without the engine running) the voltage meter showed about 11.8 volts when the fan switch is off. It jumps to a little over 12 volts with the fan switch turned on at every speed. Does this sound right? Does it matter? Because there's voltage to the blower I'm assuming (we all know what happens when we do that) that the blower motor is faulty. If I am going to replace the motor, should I also just replace the resistor as well? Any other advice or tips?

    Thanks in advance.
  • Guess what...... It was the resistor card! If anyone has a Dakota with a non-functioning blower, replace the resistor card first. It's $12 part and takes about 10-15 minutes to change. :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I am glad you were able to get it fixed. However, this is not new news... I have been replacing blower-resistors since the 1970s. It is the most common reason for blower to quit working. The Dakota/Durango tends to have this problem more frenquently than some vehicles.

    Under most failure-modes, the highest fanspeed setting still works when the blower-resistor burns out. This is because the blower-resistor is NOT USED when the fan is on "high" speed.
  • Here's another one. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. All the dealer says is 'it's a $300 part and $800 to install it." They are so full of it. It should be a recall. The fan sometimes chooses where to blow and will never choose to blow at the floor, and now it chooses not to blow at all. It didn't blow for two days, then did for 1/2 a day, and now hasn't for 4 days. I am not mechanical enough (or small enough) to work on this thing. Any suggestions for anyone other than the dealer in Anaheim CA.
    92804? I am printing out all these forum discussions to take to independant shops so they don't just start tearing it up but have some specifics to look for.
    thanks!
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