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Dodge Dakota Climate Control

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Comments

  • dleahydleahy Posts: 7
    My 98 too. Not always 10 minutes, but shuts down the cold and just blows ambient air. Did you figure the fix yet? Thanks!!!
  • captcrunchcaptcrunch Posts: 11
    On my 2K 4.7 Quad the a/c may function perfectly for hours/miles then suddenly go AWOL for 10-15 minutes. I've tried to find patterns of conditions that trigger it but never came up with a solid explanation. As a last resort I wired a small 12v bulb to the plus side of the a/c clutch and put it just in front of the windshield so I could know when the system is supplying voltage to engage the clutch. That revealed that that the compressor was not turning even though all the sensors, relays, binary brain, etc under the hood were telling it to run. Does it sound to the brain trust here that the most reasonable explanation is a an intermittent - maybe temperature related - open in the a/c clutch magnetic coil? Is that the first thing to replace?
  • ejwellsejwells Posts: 1
    Me too. The AC on my 98 may work for 5, 10 or 15 minutes....only The Shadow knows. I am anxious to hear what others suggest. I have noticed two things - 1) Revving the engine 2-3 times will often cause the AC to kick back in; and 2) The compressor is not turning when the AC is not working, but you can start it by manually spinning the clutch (careful!).

    Thanks!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    Starting the AC compressor takes a LOT of torque. I beleive that the clutch plates (friction surfaces) on the AC clutch
    may get warn out with use. Also, any oil has been spilled onto these friction-surfaces can reduce their effectiveness too.

    I beleive the friction plates on the AC clutch are replacable... this may restore like-new performance . I beleive NAPA has the AC clutch for under $100.

    Another check you can do is to pull the connector off of the AC-clutch and use an ohmmeter.... if it has infinate resistance, then the coil is bad.
  • ironcity1ironcity1 Posts: 4
    Today i went to use the A/C and it would only kick on when the fan was on High. Did some checking and the fan does not work at all only on the High setting. Do i need to replace the whole climate control unit or not to fix this.
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Posts: 57
    Your problem is that the variable resistor needs to be replaced. It is behind the glove box and costs around $20 from the dealer. It is an easy do it yourself job. You might want to do a search on this forum as this has come up very frequently in the past.
  • dakota968dakota968 Posts: 9
    The resistor is the most likely (and cheapest/easiest) cause. By your user name I'm assuming you're in Pittsburgh (I am as well). I picked up a new resistor at West Liberty Dodge for around $13. It's a newer and better designed unit and takes about 5 minutes to replace. It's located under the glove box. 2 screws, 5 minutes, and $13 bucks. It's worth a shot.
  • ironcity1ironcity1 Posts: 4
    Thanks for all your help. I grew up there moved away in 1985. Live in MD now. Went to dealer on the way home from work pick up the part for $21.00 and works great now. Thanks again for all your help.
  • moretinmoretin Posts: 5
    First time user. When the heater or A/C is on and blowing, it only comes through at the windshield, no matter what button I push. I was able to go under the dash and find a box that when I put my hand inside and pushed on a door to open, then the air come through the cab. When I released the door it shut and the air went back to the windshield. Thanks for any help.
  • KCRam@EdmundsKCRam@Edmunds Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,495
    That is the blend door, and yours is malfunctioning. Dodge dealers are used to this repair.

    kcram - Pickups Host

    KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Moderator

  • moretinmoretin Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info. I went there before I posted this message and he told me that the heater box needed to replace. I couldn't find anything about a heater box so I tried Edmunds. Thanks again.
  • cpklutzcpklutz Posts: 2
    How difficult is the switch on the compresser to replace? I have done everything else I can think of on my '92 4x4 3.9l, but cannot get the unit to run consistently.
    Everything includes: Retrofit (r134),low pressure switch, O rings, and curcuit breaker.
  • dleahydleahy Posts: 7
    Try replacing the AC clutch relay located in your fuse panel on the driver's side fender well on top. Spent hundreds with lame dealers and fixed my air for about $10 with a plug in part. Good luck!!
  • dleahydleahy Posts: 7
    My A/C problem turned out to be the clutch relay in the fuse box. $10 and presto. Full time air. Hope this helps!
  • dleahydleahy Posts: 7
    My A/C is now full time, but will shift from the dash vents to the floor vents when under acceleration. I know I've seen something on here about that before, but I can't seem to find it now. Anybody know why it does that? THANKS!! :confuse:
  • cpklutzcpklutz Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info on the relay, sadly, I have already tried that solution as well as doing a retrofit and changing the low pressure switch. I will be spending a majority of this weekend tracing the electrical circuit as the repair manuel does not show the diagram for the A/C. Oh, I have also changed the circuit breaker located in the fuse block under the dash. The last switch I know of is the compresser. :(
  • Dusty,

    I received the wiring kit from Dodge for my resistor card plug. Can you tell me which gauge wires go into which hole in the new plug. My new wires are green and purple with the green being the larger of the two. The old plug appears to have only one small wire (brown). My email is BOOMER632@HOTMAIL.COM.

    Thanks...
    Ken
  • Use the large wires. The current draw is to great for the small ones.
  • I have a 2002 dakota 4X4 with 3.9l. I have replaced the heater resistor 5 times and am currently getting ready to do it again as winter is coming and it a pain to scrape the inside of the windows in the morning. Also the last time i replaced it i also replaced the connector and the wires running to it. My question is there a perment fix or do i have to sell it and get something with a relable heater.lol Any help would be great.

    Thanks.....
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    My guess is the issue is not the resistor since they've gone to a new type which is more reliable.

    I think you'll find that the pins on the resistor block are overheating due to a resistance at the pin connection itself. If you've replaced the connector using the kit (PN #5017124-AA) you neede to be cognizant that two of the larger gauge wires needed to be used at pins 1 and 2. These correspond to the two 12 gauge wires on the motor side. Also, most people use wire crimps instead of soldering like the kit instructions suggest. I hate to say this, but they need to be solder to ensure a zero resistance loss at the connection.

    There is a problem with the kit, however, and I've notified Chrysler that the actual wire size in pins 1 & 2 of the motor connector are 12 gauge, but the kit only contains 14 and 16 gauge wires. Chrysler has another kit for the B-series vans that contain 12 gauge wires, but its not the one thet call out for the Dakota.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
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