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Dodge Dakota Climate Control

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Comments

  • Srs 49 and Terrys2. thanks for the replies. ill get a new connector and keep you posted as to what happens
  • jashtonjashton Posts: 1
    I am presently having the same problem. I removed the selector control unit. I then removed the vacuum lines from the controller. With the engine running I can't sense any vacuum on the lines going to the controller. Several posts have indicated checking under the hood fro chaffed vacuum lines. I'll let you know what i find
  • Any idea where to get instructions on how to build the new connector? I'm pretty sure I can figure it out, just want to be sure I don't fry anything.
  • terrys2terrys2 Posts: 24
    The connector comes pre-wired. All you do is cut the wires to the old connector and splice the wires together. I suggest you get some non-insulated butt connectors at Radio Shack, some heat shrink tubing over each wire, crimp the wires into the connectors, solder the connections and then heat the heat shrink tubing. You do not want to create any problems by having a bad connection due to the high current draw. If I remember right you get 2 connectors. Use the one with the heavier wire.
  • I have a 2006 Dakota 3.7 and my A/C only truly works at night when it is cooler outside. During the heat of the day, it may or may not work. I have checked to compressor and when the a/c is not working, neither is the compressor. I have checked the Freon and it is about 30-35 psi on the low side. I have swapped the a/c compressor clutch relay and that did not help and even replaced the fuses. Sometimes I can get it to work when I turn it off and back on, but until the sun goes down then it works great and blows snow balls. Any help would be appreciated.
  • Generally it's just the pulley bearing that needs repacking or replacement.
    On mine, I just used a puller to pull of the pulley that comes off a splined
    shaft after you remove the locknut. The bearing runs out of grease
    and makes a noise. If it's not too bad, you can pop off the grease seal that
    is accessible and wash out the bearing in varsol and repack it with good
    bearing grease and pop the grease shield back on an it's good to go.

    The other thing that can make noise on these is a scraping sound between
    the pulley and the electric clutch that attracts the coupling plate. I just use
    a little bit of oil sprayed into the pulley between the rotating pulley and the
    coupler which rotates only if the clutch is activated.
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    edited September 2011
    I'm going by the Haynes electrical diagram on the 98 Dakota which I
    have for mine.

    The Dakota a/c system has an A/C high pressure switch
    and a A/C low pressure switch that are in series.
    If both are closed (for normal A/C operation), switch sensing
    goes into the PCM and the PCM will turn
    on the A/C compressor clutch relay, when it gets a demand signal from
    the AC/Heat switch on the dashboard.

    If the A/C request signal comes from the A/C heater control (dashboard) to the PCM, the PCM turns on the compressor clutch relay, which controls the A/C compressor clutch. That is pretty much it.

    The symptom you describe 'it works when the sun goes down" only
    makes sense if there is a temperature sensor or thermistor
    that is elsewhere that affects it. On the 98 Durango, there is also a
    A/C low temperature cut-out switch between the A/C high pressure
    switch and the A/C low pressure switch. It's power comes from the
    fused ignition switch (run), so maybe on the newer Dakotas, they
    also incorporated that and that might have some effect causing your
    symptom.
  • My '02 Dakota HVAC blower control only works in the highest position, any clues?
  • Its the resistor found under the glove compartment. Very common problem. Dealer part to replace it.
  • Check the plug at the resister. They have problems with the connections at the terminals in the connector. Mine had been so hot the plug had melted to the resister and could not be removed. If you see ant problems the dealer has a replacement connector. You cut the wires and splice in the new connector. I highly recommend that you solder the connections and I like to use heat shrink tubing to insulate them.
  • I have read through a lot of this forum looking for a problem similar to mine - but I am not sure I have found it so I figured I would start a new one.

    The blower on my 1997 Dodge Dakota has recently become intermittent. Sometimes I start the car and it works normally, sometimes I start the car and it does nothing - at any speed. I thought it might be the resistors, but as I understand the system at the highest setting it bypasses them.

    There are also times when it seems to pulse, and an audible noise is emitted. A couple of times I have succeeded in cycling the system on and off enough times where it kicks on, but this is not the norm. Normally it seems to either work when I start the car, or not.

    My A/C has a similar problem, but as it is winter I am less concerned about this at the moment - it's the defrost I need now!

    Is it still likely the resistor assembly? Or should I look further downstream?
  • terrys2terrys2 Posts: 24
    Sounds like possibly a bad connection. Pull the connector off the resistor and check for signs of over heating. Make sure the connection to the blower motor is ok. Check the connector at the switch. Possible broken wire--wiggle the wires to see if the motor will come on & go off.
  • scotsterscotster Posts: 3
    You ever get this fixed? I have same issue
  • scotsterscotster Posts: 3
    I have same paroblem, did you ever figure it out?
  • Actually, when the problem started was when I install a new radio. So I reinstalled the radio and re-connected all the connector on the climate control panel and it went away. I have not been able to check it the last six months, I am currently deployed, so truck has been sitting.
  • scotsterscotster Posts: 3
    Thanks, I suspected the control panel. More importantly, thank you for your service!
  • Blower resistor costs maybe 12$ and its underneath the dash on the passengers side. Common problem
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