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Jeep Liberty CRD Diesel Real World MPG

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Comments

  • nottowaynottoway Posts: 67
    I don't remember what the code was but I will find out. I have paid my Mech $85 and he replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor but the light came back on so he says I am still covered until the finds the problem, Just don't want to be down for a full day to explore.
    The limping seems to always happen when I do an abrupt acceleration from a stop. I usually start off very slow waiting for the turbo to spool up and saving fuel and tires but sometime when jumping into traffic I am more agressive.
    And yes, once I shut down for 15 minutes, I was back running smooth at idle and on the freeway at 85 mph....two days now and seems to be fine.
    We have had 106 degree days here lately and I am at 1,500 feet altitude, notice the heat gage creeping over the mark a few times when pulling up hill at moderate speeds but goes back to normal at high speed and flat out.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    I finally flew to Texas and drove my 2006 CRD limited home to Ca.
    I drove 925 miles on day one and 560 on day 2. I drove straight through, no A/C, just the fan on high. other than the occasional small towns and hwy work. I unplugged the MAP sensor before leaving the dealership. I kept the cruise control set as follows:
    Tank #1. 71 mph, 27.3 actual MPG, over head reading 31.3 mpg
    .Tank #2, 80 mph, 25.5 actual MPG, over head consol said 29.5 mpg.
    The roads in Tx. and Az were excellant, then I enbtered Ca. I cleaned the PVC valve and that other little soot collector, everyone talks about, before leacing for day #2. The PVC was not dirty the other thing was about 60% blocked.
    Tank #3, 65 mph, 25.6 mpg, overhead consol read 30.2mpg.

    There were a bit more mountains in than in the other States, but mainly the roads were not smooth. (Ca. cannot afford to fix them, due to poor management).
    From my observations the over head consol reading averages about 4 MPG better than my mathamatical calculations. I have talked to some jeep people about if it can be reset, thay said no, it just is not accurate. This was a big disappointment for me, since this is a major reason I wanted a limited addition.
    I am very impressed with the power of the CRD. I plan on doing the Green Diesel eco tune, the transgo transmission kit and the lift pump within the next 30 days.
    bob
  • nottowaynottoway Posts: 67
    What is the MAP sensor and why did you unplug? Sounds like you are getting great mileage. I am lucky to get 21 but after 135,000 miles I am getting the same as when new. Can you explain the Green Diesel Eco Tune, The Transgo transmission kit and the lift pump??
    I have never touched the PVC or any of these other things folks talk about being clogged.
    What engine oil and filter you planning to run??
    Also someone posted a great website to get the complete manual on the CRD complete with diagrams.
    If you go to google and search for VM Motori---- you will be very impressed who made your engine.
    Extreme Biodiesel (www.extremebiodiesel.com) near Corona Airport in Corona sells Biodiesel made from Algea...Really smooths out the engine with no mods.
    Keep Posting- Great to hear from The CRD'ers
  • MAP stands for Manifold Absolute Pressure.... but I don't think the liberty CRDs have a MAP, do they? I think he might mean the MAF = Mass Air Flow sensor.... It's rare for vehicles to have both a MAP and MAF, is the Liberty and exception? You would unplug the MAF to disable the EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation, which is an emission control that, if disabled, will increase horsepower and MPG with a small increase in emissions.

    Green Diesel Eco Tune is an engine computer remap that gets better injection timing, more horse power, better mileage. Transgo Transmission kit fixes the problem of the Transmission and Torque converter not being robust enough to handle all of the torque from the CRD engine.

    As far as the lift pump, replacing the lift pump that is either in the fuel tank, or just outside the fuel tank, that pumps fuel up to the injection pump so that the injection pump doesn't have to work so hard.

    Someone please correct me if I got any of that wrong.
  • My mistake it is the MAF sensor, right side engine, at air cleaner.
    There is no lift pump on the CRD, people add them to avoid air leak stalling and to make life easier on the CRD high presure pump. Many think the lift pump should have been a stock item and Jeep was simply cost cutting when they did not install one. The In the Tank, pump float combination from a 2002-04 Dodge diesel pick up is a perfect fit, once you remove a plastic tab. It's easier to go with a seperate pump and locate it close to the tank. The wiring is located under the carpet at the back seat, from the standard wiring harness. I am going to use a carter rotary pump, like used on some Dodge trucks. With a sedimentator (filterless, water and debris unit) just in front of the pump and a bypass with check valve just in case the pump quits, I can stay on the road.
    The CCV is the Round plastic thingy on the right rear top of the engine, held in with 3 bolts. The Boost sensor that needs cleaning is just opposite it on the left side of the engine, small rectangular, held in with 1 torx screw.
    Another maiintence item is "Nose Blowing", From a dead stop, OD off, floor it to 55 or 60, repeat until no smoke in rear view mirror. this should be done weekly to monthly,depending on who you are listening to.
    Green Diesel "ECO tune" Cost $450, you ship your computer to them, they reprogram it and ship it back to you.
    Transgo kit, about $68 with shipping; TransmissionpartsUSA.com, they also sell the filters at good prices.
    Oil filter the Fram PH8A is a larger replacement.
  • I'm confused about MPG with the CRD; MPG ranges from 24 hwy to 42! the 42 is claimed by the seller. what is a real world mpg hwy for this vehicle. My current 2000 Honda crv gets about 22 Hwy.
  • 42 is too high.

    Some folks don't get much better than 24mpg, a lot of it depends on driving style.

    On a perfectly flat, straight, non-traffic ridden freeway I've gotten 35mpg before, but that was unusual.

    Highway I average around 28-31 depending on conditions.

    If I'm just driving around town, under 30 mph and lots of hills, more like 18mpg.
  • 2006 CRD with 110k miles. Average 20 to 22 MPG city driving and 27 to 29 MPG highway. This average is over about five (5) years.
  • OK, thanks for the input; but the real question is: should I by this vehicle? What can I expect in terms of headaches, etc, maintenance, repairs etc? Price is good; the vehicle has 1.5 yrs left on extended warranty; one owner, no accidents; winter tires; oiled underneath every winter, 116K kms. Have no experience with diesel and nevr thought much of Jeep.
  • All depends. What's the price? 116K the timing belt should have been replaced at 100K, if it hasn't that might be a large expense off the top.

    Transmission and Torque Converters are problematic.... Engine is solid but you may have EGR issues. They tend to get stuck closed.

    I love mine to death and would never consider getting rid of it, but I haven't had many problems with my 06 with only 29,000 miles on it.

    Happy to answer any other questions if you have them.
  • Hi I have a Liberty diesel. My mileage is terrible. I drive 53 miles to work 39 hwy 14 local roads I've been drive 68 on hwy with slow take-offs in short best driving I can for good mileage. And I just can not get better than 19 mpg average. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,351
    Hi crdlibertyjim,
    I'm getting an average of 21 MPG (11 liters/100km) since Sept 2003.
    I observed that keeping a steady speed above 60 mph reduces fuel consumption as well as doing faster accelerations.
    The same applies to my wife's Dahiatsu Terios (1300cc automatic). So for me the answer is in the torque converter settings: the more is slips, the more fuel you pay. But the more it slips, the better it is stress wise on the engine.
    Last month I was getting 15 l/%km for winter city driving, in the summer I get 9.6 l/%km on a long trip.
  • Hi, Hope this is the right forum for this question. I just looked at a 2006 Jeep Liberty Sport 2.8L diesel with 88,601 on the clock. Dealer wants $11,888. Feels very tight, no play in wheel and all controls look too fresh for the mileage. It’s equipped with a tow bar leading me to believe it spent some time behind an RV. Only maintenance documented is a heater hose. Does this sound like a reasonable deal?
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    Had it for 17 months now, love it to death!
    I went with the Dodge truck in tank fuel pump, the Green Diesel Eco tune, Provent 200, transgo shift kit.
    I also put on a ARB front bumper that added about 100 pounds to my CRD.
    Best hwy MPG is 31, avg 28. all around in town and hwy combination, best 27, worst 23. Hwy towing unloaded 20 foot flatbed single axle trailer (550 miles straight) 23mpg. (same trip I usually get 29+ on when not towing).
    Power fantastic, turning radius fantastic. I added Neoprean cover king seat covers to my leather seats, made the seats MUCH more comfortable on long trips. Costco has them on sale for an excellant price every 3 or 4 months.
    Got the provent 200 and in tank fuel pump/sensor on Ebay. installed all myself, not too difficult.
    Did some modifications to the air intake set up, better than stock, but I am still not happy with it. Will play with it more when the weather warms up.
  • I have a 2006 ( one of the last to be produced) CRD's that I got new and now has 76,000 miles on it. Around town I have averaged just about 20MPG. On the road I never break 25 with cruise, without cruise, doing 65 or 75, flat or hilly makes no difference. I have the tires inflated to 34 lbs. I have loved the car and have had very few problems other than one EGR valave, tor. con. was worked on and the tcm was replaced, everything was done under warranty. I do faithfully maintain the car my self and the oil changes are not cheap. The timing belt will be at least $1500 since you do the water pump, idelers, etc at the same time so the lare dollars. The VM motor is bullet proof but I would worry about all the ":stuff" that is tacked on and the transmission does seem to b ethe weak link when one gets up in miles. I love the torque and the sound and still have original exhaust after nearly six years. best of luck
  • The CRD has an "Interference" engine. As such, changing the Timing belt, etc. is a lot more important then the "Non-interference" engine. If the belt goes, it is highly likely you will ruin your diesel. The job itself is not that difficult for a good mechanic if he reads the book. On page one is a super important warning and you need to make sure whoever does the work understands that as close tolerance as the CRD is, you must lock down the camshaft with a special bolt kit made just for this car. Don't let them wing it. You should be thinking about this at around 100k. Buy the parts yourself and find a good mechanic that will do the work for about $500. Here's the kit. http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2721
  • Hi! could you please let me know where I can get the special bolt kit you refer to in your post?? I need to order it along with the timing belt kit.
  • skifriskifri Posts: 1
    Rjsj,

    From back in 2006, 2 of your comments seem to contradict each other, and i was hoping you might be able to explain. The comments were:

    #1 "my odometer shows 100 miles, the GPS shows 106.6 miles. The second vehicle showed 100 miles w/ GPS at 105.2 miles and the third showed 100 miles w/ GPS at 104.7 miles"

    ---Wouldn't this imply that you traveled a greater distance (106.6mi), in the time your car thought you only traveled 100miles (your car thought you were going slower than you actually were)--

    and
    #2 "65 on the GPS which equals 69 on my speedometer"
    --This comments suggests that your car thought you were going faster than you actually were--

    So my question is, which is it? Is it possible your MPG #'s were so high, because you compensated in the wrong direction?

    For instance, on my '06 CRD, when my car says i'm getting 27mpg, i know i'm actually only getting about 24.5 - 25 mpg. (not 30)

    When my speedometer says 65mph, and i drive past a radar display on the highway, it says i am going about 59 mph. I've also verified this with my gps.
  • denoferthdenoferth Posts: 4
    Must be some mistake. My question to the group was to ask if the odometer recorded when the vehicle was being towed with the transfer case in neutral. I had found a clean looking Liberty diesel equipped with the type of tow bar used to tow behind a recreational vehicle. The lack of wear on the wheel, pedals, seats, carpets and knobs was way less than would be expected given the mileage. No one at the dealer was able to answer the question so I posted it to the group.
  • elder2elder2 Posts: 16
    I flat tow my '05 CRD and the odometer doesn't count those tow miles.
  • Thanks, elder2. That's the info I needed.
  • kames30kames30 Posts: 1

    I get on avg 31-33 in the summer, winter I get 27-29. Thats with 80% highway. On a long road trip I got 37 mpg. I have the GDE Eco Tune, Removed the Air Box and filter and added K&N Filter, have a Straight 3.5in pipe back from the manifold, and TransGo Kit. Fuel brand makes a bit of a difference I personally go to BP where I found I get my best mileage, Shell is my second choice. But overall before all the mods I was pulling 27 mpg at my best.

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