Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems



  • I know someone who had the same problem and his problem was the Body Control Module. He got one from the dealer and it wasn't configured incorrectly and ended up frying his PCM. They tried to charge him thousands of dollars to fix it but he raised hell until they paid for a new PCM and BCM. It's best to replace them together. I'm no expert but just wanted to respond with what I have seen.
  • glynnaglynna Posts: 2
    2005 dodge caravan began having electrical problems 6-9 months ago. a loud POP noise then radio would go out, gauges would go spinning and indicator lights on dash would come on..this lasts for a few seconds to minutes then quit. vehicle never would quit & ran during these tried several times to fix, never did, finally installed new battery, but this did not fix problem..any ideas I am very frustrated.thanks
  • luiscab70luiscab70 Posts: 2
    OK..We think we have it fixed. After four times, the dealer traced each wire path from the TIPM to every electrical source on the electrical console. What they found was one pinched wire that would trip the fuse (like a breaker at your house). They replaced that wire and thus far, the problem has not happened again. This is the longest it has worked with out tripping the fuse. Stay tuned. For those who have had similar problems, unless your dealer is willing to do this, check your states lemon laws. OUr dealer has been working with us for six months. THey have been great and I am glad a solution has come of it!
  • kersh1kersh1 Posts: 1
    My T&C is having some issues. I'm just over my 90,000 of course, but wanted to see if I can get some discounts if this is a recall issue. My drivers side window quit working about a month ago. Two weeks ago my right taillight went out and went to replace it, but after replacing still not working and finally just this Monday the automatic locks don't work from the keyless remote or internally with the locks. HELP! Thanks!
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Intermittent shorts like that are a real bear to track down and fix. Sounds like your dealer has some very good techs in their shop - ones who are willing to spend the time and effort to find the root cause of a problem.
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Oddball electrical problems are sometimes a symptom of a weak battery. I would have the charging system checked out to make sure your battery is holding its charge and the alternator is working properly. Good luck.
  • tat4tat4 Posts: 1
    Trying to start the van and nothing happens. Replaced the battery and dome lights will come on, but no dashboard lighting and no ignition. Some functions work and some do not. Also hear a "clicking" sound that seems to be coming from the fusebox but no blown fuses. Anyone have a clue?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    The clicking sounds are relays (those little black boxes in the main fuse/relay box). It may be a relay that is bad, an irregular connection (like a loose connector or bad ground in a connector), or something more complicated like a problem in the body control module or powertrain control module.

    I am currently hunting down a similar problem. My van will crank but is not getting fuel. There is no fuel pressure and the pump is not running, but trying to find the electrical gremlin causing it is just a slow, methodical, time-consuming process.

    Get a multimeter... ;)
  • Hi Guys!

    This is a repost of an answer to this problem you are having. I posted this answer some time ago. It should take care of your problem. I had the same problem on an 87 that I owned, on that one it didn't involve the starter/solenoid, or the alternator. On that one, I just cleaned the existing grounds and put them back together, and for extra "just in case" security against faulty grounds in the future, I took a long wire and grounded it from the frame to the fenders and both heads and the block, then to the battery and never had another problem. It seems that all these c/d/p's have ground problems
    and they mimic other known electrical problems and have us chasing our tails, when it turns out to simple be a faulty ground, due to use of thin metal and different metals used on the vehicles. So, try this
    #271 of 273Re: 1997 Grand Caravan-won't start without a jump [kizersoze] by joepeterson56 Jul 29, 2009 (2:52 pm)Save | Reply
    Replying to: kizersoze (Jun 28, 2009 2:52 pm)

    My 97 Voyager was doing the same thing. Had the alternator and starter checked at autozone, but both tested"good" according to them. I refused to believe them because the problem was behavior consistent with a bad starter or solenoid. After they told me it was good, I undid every single ground connection on the engine block and in the engine compartment, including where the control unit and electric distribution box connect, cleaned them with sandpapaer and/or a file, then reconnected them all. Problem persisted, so I went ahead and replaced the starter. Problem solved!! That was 2 yrs ago & no problem since. So, if you all have replaced your starters, do all the ground connections. If you did the ground connections, replace the starter. I know from all the c/d/p minis I have owned, that they are very tempermental when it comes to voltage/ground variations, and do the strangest things as a result of them. Most of which, Chrysler and/or the dealers refuse to acknowlege or have never hear of. Good luck.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Good call, Joe! I did not think to consider that it may be a current problem on that poster's van!

    Unfortunately, my van energizes just fine.... the problem is isolated to something relating to the fuel pump circuit. I do not think it is the pump itself, but there are other things that can be causing it, so I am just slowly trying to eliminate possibilities. Very frustrating. At 213,000 miles, even though the van runs perfectly when the FUBAR electrical system will actually let the engine start, it may be time to say goodbye. In any case, it is worth a heck of a lot more if it runs.... :(
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    I managed to get our Caravan up and running yesterday; it is back to being smooth as butter! For some reason, when I tried connecting my OBD-II reader to it while diagnosing the problem (turned out to be a bad fuel pump), the reader would not link to the van. It just said, "ERROR." I need to check it again now that everything else is working properly. If the link is still bad, I will do a little more research into possible causes. We may end up getting rid of it if we cannot use the on-board diagnostics system, as that could be a disaster later on as more problems inevitably arise. If I can fix it, though, I will.

    I was surprised that the fuel pump was the problem, given the symptoms. Someone suggested that the motor may have a "dead spot" in it that just slowly became worse and only manifested itself if the pump happened to stop with the gearing in just the right position. In any case, it is fixed now after much effort. The pump ended up costing $250, plus another $20 for a few miscellaneous parts to drain the fuel, etc., for a total cost of $270 and about ten hours of time diagnosing the problem and performing the repair.

    So, now that I had the battery drained/disconnected for a while, the console lights (wiper, int. wiper, recirc, and A/C buttons) flash for about ten minutes after starting. I know I read somewhere on here about the procedure for resolving that, but cannot find the post. Does anyone know? It does not seem to affect the operation of anything, but it would be nice to not have the distraction....

    Thank you for any suggestions,

  • jtljjtlj Posts: 5
    i own a 2002 dodge caravan with a 2.4 liter motor it only has 32,000 miles on it if i drive some place and shut off the motor it has to sit for about one hour for the vehicle to restart the cam and crank sensors were replaced and the fuel filter was replaced the fuel pump appears to be working properly also the asd relay checked out ok and the coil pack checked out ok it is not getting any fuel to the throttle body it appears a component is getting hot preventing fuel from getting to the throttle body during the start cycle it will not start untill some part cools down i have had two garages work on the vehicle the mechanics are not sure what the problem is does anybody have a clue what is wrong with this van thank you for your consideration
  • kablokablo Posts: 2
    It just happened to my 2005 T&C (today) . I am working on it. If I get any results I will let you know
  • tat4 ... did you solve your problem?

    I have a clicking noise coming from the fuse box. I was wondering if you could tell me what did you do to solve your clicking noise.

  • Hi all,
    This may sound like a simple-minded request but the dashboard trim is all plastic and probably becoming extra brittle with age. I need to remove the trim around the instument cluster so as to remove it for the solder repair or replacement so widely discussed in this forum. Since I cannot see any screws, it probably just pries off but I've tried gently in several places with nothing yielding. Can someone please help out by explaining exactly how to pop this trim off without breaking it. Perhaps other members are similarly frustrated also.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    1998 Dodge Grand Caravan SE AWD, 3.8L V6, 213,000 miles

    Mechanically, this van is perfect and it runs/drives with precision. Regrettably, it is suddenly inundated with electrical gremlins and I cannot figure out the source. Any suggestions welcome.

    Here is the thing: I have about a 50% chance of the van starting. If, when I turn the ignition to "on," I hear the fuel pump whir, the van starts perfectly. If, instead, I do not hear the fuel pump whir and then hear a relay "click" about 1-2 seconds after turning the ignition to "on," the van will crank and crank, but not start. In this situation, I have no spark, fuel injector activity, or fuel pump activity. So, the ASD circuit must not be powered. However, the information I read indicates this circuit is controlled by the operation of the camshaft and crankshaft sensors. I am getting power to the sensors, so I replaced them. No change.

    Where else might the problem be? My relays all seem to test fine, etc., but yet the problem persists. If it starts, it will keep running without fail. Once it is turned off, though, it is anyone's guess if it will start again. I will state that I have not yet had it fail to start shortly after shutting it off. Whether or not that is symptomatic or coincidence, I am not yet sure.

    I am at my wit's end with this van and am seriously thinking about scrapping it. I hate to do that, given the excellent condition of everything but the electrical, but there comes a point when I just have to decide that this is one stress I no longer need to have. Of course, that is complicated by the fact that when I do fix this issue, I am going to sell it, but I will not dupe a buyer and sell a vehicle I know is unreliable.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    From your description of the symptoms, I would go after the fuel pump.

    Disconnect one of the fuel line hoses at the fuel filter (not sure exactly where this is on your vehicle). Try starting the car and see if you get fuel flow out of the line. Obviously, use something to catch the fuel. Do this maybe a dozen times and see if the fuel flow or lack thereof can be correlated to the "not hearing the fuel pump whir" symptom you mentioned.

    Be careful, and keep a fire extinguisher handy. There's always a danger when you're dealing with raw fuel like this.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    I know it seems like it might be the pump, but it is not. In fact, I just replaced the old fuel pump because it did go bad. The van worked just fine for about two weeks afterward, and now this new problem. It definitely involves the ASD relay circuit, however, because I do not get the spark or fuel. When the pump went bad, I had spark and fuel injector activity, but there was just no fuel pressure in the line.

    I appreciate the suggestion!
  • We have a 2005 Town and Country minivan. It has been having serious intermittent electrical problems which no mechanic seems to want to figure out. The analog dials will spin, lights on dash flicker, warning lights go on and off, radio crackles, dvd player crackles, HVAC will pulse air when it is in the off position, etc. These "episodes" last a few seconds to a few minutes. Occasionally the car will completely shut down if there is a lot of flashing and dial spinning going on. Has anyone ever had problems like these...and did someone actually figure out what the problem is?
  • i have the same van with 110K miles. I also have a dashboard disco happening about once every couple of weeks. I am glad to hear it is not just me.

    I plan on trading it in ASAP and crossing my fingers that it doesn't act up when the dealer checks it out.

    I also had a problem where the headlights kept turning off while driving and sometimes they would stay on. It would take multiple turns of the switch to get them on or off. I replaced the switch and that solved the issue.
Sign In or Register to comment.