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Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems

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  • I have the same problem with my 01 Voyager while the engine is running. Nevertheless, if I hit the gas pedal and increase the RPM fast, the front wiper runs once and the radio clock blinks once too. In addition, if I turn on the rear wiper, while the rear wiper is going from left to right, everything works. As soon as the rear wiper reaches the start position (left side of the car), everything stop again.

    I didn't check under my battery to verify corrosion yet, but do you think that could be the same problem? Even with these two new details (RPM and rear wiper) ?

    Thanks
  • I removed the starter relay while the engine was running and everything worked perfectly!!!

    What should I check first to solve this issue?

    Thanks
  • I have news about my issue. As soon as I start the car, pwr windows, HVAC, wipers & radio stop working. But, if I remove the EATX relay while the car is running and put it back (everything with the car running), everything start working perfectly and keep working until I shut the car down. Just removing the EATX relay and putting it back solve the problem until I shut down the car.

    Any ideas?
  • The driver's side electric sliding door on my 05 T&C recently stopped working altogether. When the button on my key is pressed, the door still unlocks but it does not even attempt to open. When I open it manually, the caution lights do not flash anymore nor do the interior light come or stay on. I originally thought the door motor went but without any electric function, I am not so sure now. Any similar problems that have been diagnosed/repaired or any guesses?

    Thank you and God bless you!

    Tara :sick:
  • Had my 02 caravan in the shop for this EXACT problem today............pulled the EATX relay and all worked until it was shut off..........any further news on this?????
    I am going to get my regular mechanic look at the corroded wire under the battery option........maybe it is the cause????
  • My 2008 T&C has had a jillion electrical problems--including both sliding doors seeming to have a small mind of their own. However, once the computer control units for both doors and the entire electrical systems had been "flashed" at least once by the dealership service department--no more problems. It had been so bad that I had wanted to just trade back for my 2002. Good luck!
  • assumers1

    I have some news on this. I tried to replace the EATX and STARTER relays with new ones but didn't have any effect.

    Yesterday afternoon I started up the car and everything was working again. But I didn't do anything, it got fixed by itself. Last week was raining a lot here in Iowa and I think that some moisture got inside the relays or any circuit and since stopped raining I think that the moisture is gone and the system is back to work.
  • I have a 1998 T & C LXI. The problem I am having is that my door ajar light has started to appear on the instrument panel (while driving) on its own which turns on the interior lights even though all the doors are locked. Has anyone else experienced this problem? At first it did in once, but today it has done it every time I get into my car. Any help is appreciated before I have to shell out a bunch of $$$ to diagnose the issue.
  • Please pardon my ignorance, but what does 'flash' mean? Is this something only a dealer can do? Thanks!
  • Flash means upgrade the software.
    basically the same as you install updates on your computer apps.
    However only the dealer can do it.
  • I have a 2005 Town & Country Limited with 34,000 miles bought new. For the past 6 months or so if the car sits without being driven for a week or so the battery is just dead and the car won't start and is completely dead. If it is driven every few days the battery is fine and the car starts fine and drives fine. I've had 3 brand new Die Hard batteries and now a brand new Interstate battery and this keeps happening. I've been to the Chrysler dealer several times and he found nothing. Finally, last time he said I needed a new fuse box which would cost $650. I got the same repair done by a very reputable local garage I use for $450 but this problem still persists. The garage told me that the car is only drawing 3 mAmps from the battery when it is not on. He couldn't think of anything that could be causing this problem and suggested I get a trickle charger. The only other history this vehicle has is that several years ago it was in an accident involving the right front fender and right door which was repaired by a body shop. There has to be something causing the battery to die after 1 week of non-use but it obviously recharges when driven often enough. Any ideas?
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    If what the garage told you is accurate - that the car is only drawing 3 mA when off, then any battery should last months without driving. There is probably more leakage through the battery itself than 3 mA.

    After you park the car knowing it's not going to be driven for a week or more, disconnect the battery at the negative terminal. Then, hook it back up when you're ready to drive it and see if the car starts. If it does, then the 3mA measurement was probably made after the source of the leak, or maybe the value was really 3 amps?

    I'm not surprised that replacing the fuse box did not fix the problem.
  • If I leave my dash light rotary switch in anything but off the next morning I am unable to start my car. The starter will just whir and the tac and speedometer will peg out on the high side. The other day after driving over 100 miles I stopped at a drive in and left the key turned on for about two minutes so I could operate the window and the car would not start. It doesn't take a lot of charge from a jumper cable but does anyone have any ideas?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,279
    Have you had the battery checked? It could be that it is simply worn out. If you have no problems while the engine is running, the alternator is working just fine.
  • The headlights and turn signals suddenly stopped working on the town & country 1995. Harards, parking and other lights working ok. Can someone let me know what is going on. Thanks for your assistance.
  • Ok, I have a 97 DGC sport with 219,178 miles on it and have been doing nothing but trying to find an answer for the stalling out of nowhere that has left me and my family not only in unsafe situations because you have no warning for when this will happen but also is costing way too much. Then I came acrossed this forum and I am almost 100% positive I found the answer but I have two questions. The answer would deffinatly be the Circuit Board behind the dash, 1. We have had our van down this time for 2 days strait (nevermind how many times it died leaving us to have it towed in last 4 weeks) I told my husband about hitting the dash (which he did about two months ago accidentally and the van started so when I pointed it out he said I was crazy) He did try hitting it but said it did not start so is it possable that this has just been happening so long that that "hitting the dash" idea surpassed? 2 has anyone found the video that shows what to solder? I did find the pics but it sounds like the video shows a little more detail.
  • When we had our '77 VW Rabbit, it would stall out--then after 20 minutes to an hour it would start OK. After many EXCITING adventures and a hot cross-country trip, we found it to be caused by a faulty fuel pump relay that VW supplemented with a short jumper. Good luck!
  • I found out that the airbag lite when lit, also controls horn & cruze. I have the same problem and was told that its most likely to be the clock spring went bad. Thats located under the air bag. You can also bypass the clock spring to get the other things working again. I bough my clock spring for $60.00. I have yet to put it in. To cold. I did a lot of looking on google about it .Bought it at.. GOPART.COM. :)
  • Here is one for you...1996 T&C...Turn signals quit...but flashers worked. Could turn on flashers, turn on signal then turn off flashers and signal would work....usually. Had a new "multi-function switch" installed ($500)..next day...no signals. Next month, cruise became intermittent. Then dash gauges flat-lined (Lit nicely but stayed zeroed. Took it to a different garage...They replaced the "multi-function switch" again...told me all was well and the dash lights worked again...I pointed out they had ALWAYS worked...it was the gauges that were finicky. Paid $700, started the van...no signals and no gauges....and no cruise. Then the van would not start...sometimes I could shake the van and it would start...now it clicks once and sits there no matter what I do. When the gauges are not working, neither are the automatic door locks. When it does start, I never know what will work and what will not. Sometimes things start or stop working while I am driving. I caught it at a good moment and had the annual safety inspection done....pulling out of the drive, the turn signal quit as I left. (at least I remember hand signals). It has never died on me when driving. So....what is causing all this? No one at the garage seems to know.
  • I have almost the same issue on my 97 T&C since the day we bought the vehicle the windshield wipers would come on all by them selves and shut down after a few strokes. about 10 months ago the vehicle just started shutting down I have replace all the O2 sensors and have had it on the computer several times with no luck just out a few hundred bucks. I think there is a short somewhere in the steering column but I have no idea on how to proceed
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