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Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems



  • I have a 97 T & C and the airbag light is on, the cruise doesn't come on, and the horn doesn't work. All three of these pertain to the steering wheel, but I removed it and can't find anything disconnected and I can't find a fuse that would control all three. Is this a common problem? What could it be?
  • Hi. I just did some more searching and foud out that there is a recall on my 97 for the clockspring in the steering wheel/column that connects the steering wheel electronics to the rest of the system. Go to There will be a section where you can check for recalls. You put in the last 8 of your vin number and it shows what recalls have been put out, which ones have been completed or incompleted, that sort of thing. Hope this helps, good luck.
  • I have a 2001 Chrysler T&C van that has been having trouble for the past several months. The problems it is having are intermitant but happen every couple minutes. The headlights will flash on and off all the time while driving even if the headlights are turned off. At the same time all of the instrument cluster warning lights flash on and off and the speedometer and tach and all of the guages will come on and off and a lot of the time the guages will quit working altogether until the van is turned off for a while. The guages will come back on the next time the vehicle is started. I Have replaced the body control module already to no avail. does anybody have any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated..
  • I took my 2005 T&C Touring model back last week for the recall on the seat belt sensors, and told them my locks were not working also. It cost me $557 for a new "control module" which supposedly controls all the electrical systems, icnluding registering mileage, etc. I have only $40,000 miles on it, and said I was flabbergasted this could happen. No reply, except "that's the way it is!" I am following up with Chrysler.
  • I am having the same issue along with a host of others.

    First the power doors only worked intermittently. Then the speedo gauge would go crazy and now doesn't work (although all of the other gauges seems to Tach, fuel etc.)

    The Air conditioner won't turn off. The fan control knob has the little light on it but does nothing. Fan always blows on high.

    The stereo just has the blinking EQ lights. This must be some anti/theft thing.

    I took it to a recommended repair shop that specializes in electrical work. they told me I need:

    New battery
    Right Door Latch
    Left Door Motor
    Front Control Module

    Parts = $839
    Labor = $675
    Total + $1619 :cry:
  • I had the same problem with my 01 GC. What you have sounds like a broken clock spring. This is exactly what it sounds like, except that it makes the electrical connection to the wheel instead of keeping a clock going. It coils up and releases as you turn the wheel. You can get them from, i forget the price. I know this is obvious, but be certain to disconnect the negative battery cable, or the airbag could fire when you make the connection. Hope this helps.
  • aedaed Posts: 8
    The dimmer switch in my '98 GC Sport has essentially lost its rangeability to adjust inside and dash lights. I haven't bought a replacement yet because I cannot figure out to access it in the dash and remove it. Can anyone explain how to get to it and remove it?
  • This is a question also,I have a 2001 Town and Country and last year we had to replace the ECU when it went out. It was having all these symptoms as yours and some more. Last weekend the battery died, well not died but terminals corroded and needed cleaning. We put a new battery in it any way and now it cranks and runs fine but these symptoms have started. The things that dont work is the a/c, wipers, radio, headlights, and rear vent electric windows . Am i going to have to replace the ecu again and if so I think Chrysler needs to do a recall or something :mad:
  • Just so you know, there are A LOT of us out there with the same problem. I have a 2005 T&C Touring with now 72,000 miles. I have been dealing with the locks for months! I have had 3 BCM (Body Control Modules) put in. Luckily I purchased the extended warranty and only had to pay $50 deductible. Problem was still not fixed. I just had it in 4 days ago again for locks and they replaced the lock control switch in the driver's door. This worked for a few hours and then the lock on the driver's side sliding door stopped. I took it back into them yesterday and they said the lock on that door needed replaced. They had that in stock and replaced it but while the door was apart found the gear for the motor to open and close the door was bad (why my door is so heavy to move) and replaced it. It works great now (and another gear is on order for the other sliding door). The locks so far are working. Maybe this was the magic solution. There are lots more threads on this issue in here if you look at the forum about windows and doors. Good luck!
  • Open the steering wheel, you find wire band (around 5 - 10 small wires rolled like a coil circle around the center of steering wheel, the wires band is very thin, to allow the electrical connect while steering, those wire might broke 1 or 2 wires, easy to fit, use razor blade to cut that wires band by 45 degree, stripped the band 45 degree that mean the insulation of each wire still half circle, that way wire never got short out, do the same on the other end by up side down, apply thin layer of solder on those wires, put the other end on top of this end, layed solder ion on top of those wire, solder melted and cool, you can use masking tape to taped over area you solder.
    Hope that work for you.
  • Where it locate, is it in the gauge housing??
  • This might help some of you with a door lock problem. I bought a 98 T&C with a door lock problem. The first day I lock the key in and had to pay a locksmith for help. After that I was exceptionally careful not to leave the car with the keys even in the ignition. After months I found out that the door lock rocker switch on the passenger side was defective. I purchased one used for a few bucks(dealer is around 65 bucks) only to find out that mine had a small pin in the operation of the rocker that was stuck. I opened the switch with a small screwdriver and freed the pin with wd40. It has been a great releaf to me. I hope that this will help a few.
  • I have a 2004 Town and country Van,Touring Model. Lately when I am driving and use the, Left Turn Signal, I get the Right Turn Indicator Light activated on the dashboard instead of the proper one. Also, sometimes my turn signals will shut off after about 10 seconds.

    Anybody have any advice???
  • is any body know where is instrument cluter board locate??? and how to take it out???
  • I also have a 1996 Chrysler T&C LXI that the gauges would shut off and the van would stall out. I finally took it to the dealership today and was advised that this is a common problem with a short in the instrument cluster. I need to replace the circuit board and possibly the gauge set(a total of about $700 according the the dealership). I have not yet had this replaced so I don't know if this is the only problem, but it's a start at least. The other mechanics that have looked at my van stated that they don't have any codes coming up to tell them something is wrong.
    Good luck.
  • It's the instrument cluster board and from what I was explained today it is in the dashboard, but very difficult to replace unless you are experienced in the electrical system of your vehicle.
  • romottromott Posts: 4
    I had a 1998 T&C Limited. The car died one day and would not start. After replacing two ECM computers, the first one at my cost, the car worked most of the time.

    Then we had more and more occassions where the instrument panel would be dark when trying to start the car. After researching the internet, I found that several folks had been able to fix this problem by resoldering the heavy pins that are part of the grounding system on the back of the instrument cluster. Fixed!!!!

    Be aware that the dealers are all too quick to replace computers when the more likely causes are sensors and wiring connectors. The Chrysler data bus has to detect all computers up and running, any one down and the car won't start. The instrument cluster has its own computer and it was not working hence the non start.

    I loved that car, unfortunately it was totalled in an accident. We bought a 2005 T&C hoping that the Germans finally got it right. Unfortunately, now I have rock hard leather seats (that looks and feels more like pleather).
    The 2005's locks have stopped working!!! Aurghhh!!!!
  • romottromott Posts: 4
    I found a fix for this problem on the internet - (ain't it wonderful!!!!). Turns out the computer can get confused about a door lock actuator problem which will disable the locks (horn, lights, memory seats all change but no locks). Remove the IOD fuse which is located in the fuse block next to the battery for 30 seconds. problem fixed. There is supposedly a software upgrade available from Chrysler for $100 or more that fixes it. But I'll wait and see if it is enough of a headache that the software needs to be done. Removing the fuse takes all of one minute or so.
  • I have a 2001 Chrysler Town & Country Mini-van. A couple of years ago I started having problems with it starting. It would begin to start & then try to cutout for a few seconds & then die. This typically happened on very hot days. Recently it has gone to where the engine will crank but it will not start. If I pop the hood, open the relay box, remove the "Starter" relay, leave it out a few seconds, then put it back in place and crank it --- it will start right up. A guy at an Auto store said that it has something to do with the Safety Check circuit check that it goes through before starting. Please help. My local Dodge Dealer wanted to put a new computer in it??? Some how removing the Starter Relay appears to be resetting a circuit or something. Any help would be appreciated.
  • romottromott Posts: 4
    My 1998 T&C did the same thing. After the dealer replaced two ECM's (one at my expense - $700), the problem persisted. The dealer kept the car for a week, checked all the wiring and found nothing. The start sequence disables the starter after 5 failed starts (antitheft feature). My instrument panel would be dark during these events. Turns out there are some ground connections on the back of the panel that were cold solder joints. I removed the panel and resoldered them (you'll need the factory manual). Problem fixed! This car will not start if all computers aren't talking to each other. The instrument panel has a computer in it too. Good luck. Resist changing the computer - that is their quick fix - but from what I have seen on these forums, seldom fixes the problem.
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