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Ford F-Series Powerstroke Diesel Problems

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  • cowboy9cowboy9 Posts: 161
    Well you need a Scanner that will do it for ya while the motor is turning over. I think most shop scanners will do it, I know the new Snap-on will. Have you ever had it in a shop ? If you have most shops will will rescan it for free. I tried one time to jumper the hot wire going to the ICP but it wouldn't work for some reason and couldnt get an answer from anyone on how come it wouldn't work. Now I am gonna ask a dumb question only because I did it once, lol. How is the oil in the truck , mine was leaking and I was really busy and didnt watch it, well long story short the truck died and gave me all kinds of griff until someone asked me if it had enough oil in it, lol. Also please tell me you are changing it within 5000 miles if under a 100K on the truck and 3000 if over 100K. Just in case you don't know these Powerstrokes work best with the Shell Rotella Oil 15/40 n Motorcraft Oil Filter which are priced best at Wallyworld ( wal-mart). Filter 10.00 and they have 2.5 Gals of Oil on special for 25.50 right now.

    OMG I just saw the new Jackie Chan movie promo, they are redoing The Karate Kid and it looks really funny, damn I am getting old when they are redoing movies I grew up with and they call it a classic :cry:
  • Did Ford diesels ever get less problem oriented ? We want to buy, know to avoid 2003 & 2004. Safe to buy 2005 or 2006?
  • jspot78jspot78 Posts: 2
    I Had the same Problem with my 2000 f-350 i pulled my fuel tank out and found that the fuel pick up tube was broke off so when i got down to 1/4 of a tank my truck would die and when i filled it up it ran rough until the air got out of the system.
  • jspot78jspot78 Posts: 2
    I have 180,000 mile on my 2000 f-350, I had my Transmission serviced and 2 days later I was pulling a load I had my superchip programmer in tow safe mode, and my transmission overheated pouring most of all my fluid on the ground. It never have done that before I had my Transmission service.
  • pwruppwrup Posts: 6
    Is the ICP voltage erattic? It could be orings but before you do all that work check the nut on the back of the IPR, if it is loose it will allow the IPR to move and it will cause an erratic ICP reading. Also try unplugging the ICP and see if it stays running, if it does then the ICP sensor or the connector at the ICP could be bad, replace the sensor and connector and see what happens.
  • I have an '05 F350 6.0 diesel with 198,000 miles on it. I had some injectors replaced {all new o rings}, seals and o rings on high pressure tubes replaced, and after the truck came out of the shop, the fuel mileage went from 15 mpg in town to about 10! This truck had a "3 day trial" Bully Dog on it the day before it developed a "won't start when warm" problem and we found the bad seals and o rings. After all repairs were made, the mileage has gone to hell! It used to only get about 16.3 mpg on the highway at speeds of 75 and now is doing 13 at same speeds.
    Any ideas would be appreciated. One mechanic has suggested to take it to a Ford dealer and have them "clean the computer" and load all new data -- they want about $100.00 to do that.
  • alan4444alan4444 Posts: 1
    Unfortunately the engine must come out to change this gasket, Heres a kicker to think on, I took my 97 to a ford certified mechanic to do this, He changed the pan gasket last friday, since that $1600 expense I have in the last 2 days had to put one gallon, not quart, gallon of oil in this truck after only a 25 mile trip. I have done this twice in 2 days. Hopefully you will find a mechanic that is worth your cash, I cant even get a call from mine. I also had the rear crank seal changed, the truck still pours oil somewhere, I just dont know where, it only has 120 k original miles.
  • i have a 2001 F550 i have replaced the IDM 2 times and keep having the same issues of it running on bank 2 and cant figure it out :sick:
    any ideas???
  • mspbmspb Posts: 1
    bought this truck drove it around for about a month decided to do a maintenance on it, changed the air filter [which was pretty dirty] after that it wouldn't start after it was warmed up, replaced the CPS and IPR didn't fix it, fuel pressure reads 60psi
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Posts: 161
    I would say double check all the wiring because more than likely you unpluged something when you was replacing the Air Filter. How come you replaced the CPS n IPR ?
  • I have a 2003 F-250 6.0 liter Diesel, and yes I have trouble with my injectors, two went out the first 50,000 miles, one more right after 100,000 miles, and now it is blowing lots of white smoke out the tail pipe, and I think I have more injector problems. Not to mention the vibration in the front end. And the fact that I cannot drive it because of all the smoke, and I cannot afford to fix it yet.
  • The cam sensor on the 6.0 is located behind the air compresor, I would recomend going to helminc.com and ordering a service Manual as I did, but you have to take the tire off, the wrap around over the tire, then remove the air compresor, hope this helps
  • Thinking one of my batteries had failed (1999 Ford F350 7.3 Diesel), I replaced both after the truck wouldn't start. No battery light had indicated any problem, the batteries had discharged. It was fine for a day, then the battery indicator started flickering periodically, especially at low RPMs. I replaced the alternator. A day later, the battery indicator light began flashing periodically again, especially when raising the RPMs. All the connections are tight and clean......is there another regulator or sensor that could cause the problem......?
  • Battery lite flashing usually means alternator is on its way out I would test charging system and than load test batts.
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Posts: 161
    You have a short somewhere, mine did the same thing. Follow the Alternator wires as that is where mine was at.
  • toyjnketoyjnke Posts: 1
    I have had the same problem with 2001 F350 7.3L intermittently die on road. I originally thought it was the CPS but have replaced it with the new (improved) one. When attempting to restart after the truck dies the "Wait to start" comes on/off very fast and the truck will not start. If I let it sit for a couple of minutes it will start if the wait to start goes through its normal 5-10 second timeout. I always know when it will start by watching the "wait to start" and ensuring it stays lit for a proper amount of time. This requires cycling the keyswitch on/off a few times to get the proper sequence. I do have a 60hp superchip piggy backed on the PCM. I recently replaced the batteries and had no problems for about 3 months. Now it is starting to happen again? Any help is appreciated.
  • don169don169 Posts: 2
    I have an 05 - F350 with a 6.0 liter.
    at 100100miles the egr cooler went out, they would not cover under warranty cause it was 100 miles out. This was last year..

    16,000 miles and one year later it went out again, had it fixed out of state, cost $2900. Now they said it was not covered warranty cause it had a one year warranty and it was 10 days past...

    I am not very happy..
  • mopar5mopar5 Posts: 4
    howdy howdy....your problem is in the e.g.r. intake passage. You have too clean the intake side and clean the passages with a wire brush. The carbon is goin to keep chipping off into your e.g.r. They have a a tool that replaces the e.g.r and a cleaner that cleans the intake system.
  • was pulling a cattle trailer today, started up a hill, punched the overdrive button, and the truck literally shut down, will run, but will not accelerate at all, the gas pedal goes to the floor board but the truck won't go. any suggestions on what might have caused this, have had no problems with this vehicle till now. whatever it is it has shut the electronic system down, checked fuses, didn't see a problem there. Thanks,
  • I have a strong suspicion, I had a very similar problem on my 2003 f 250,
    Long story short , right under the palstic covers around the steering column, the tow haul switch wire was shorting out on a bracket that it routes to tightly around,

    I reroyuted to give the wire some slack , and small peice of electrical tape over the bare wire, which solved it, something defferent on mine was it would blow a fuse, i cannot remeber the fuse number though, maybe 34 or 43,or 41 ? and the manual for that fuse is incorrect .
    so to be clear the wire shorted about 4 inches from the base on the tow haul switch arm.

    Hope this helps, and good luck
    Dave cincinnati
  • Similar problem just began last night. Runs for 3-5 minutes then dies. "Wait to start light" is normally 11 seconds only comes on for 3-5 seconds. I have no chips or mods to my 96 F-350 power stroke. I replaced the fuel filter, no help.
    Hoping you found your solution, so that I can copy.
  • nickerrrnickerrr Posts: 5
    The Egr cooler that came stock on the 6.0 diesels was a weak link in the motor. When it goes out it may look like a head gasket and has been known to freeze lock injectors. The solution to this problem is to look online and find the "bulletproof" cooler. Do NOT order a new one from ford or it will repeat the problem. The stock ones have a coil inside whereas the aftermarket ones run solid welded tubes inside. I replaced mine with this and haven't had any problems since.
  • nickerrrnickerrr Posts: 5
    Check your valve cover gasket, as some of them even had part of the wiring harness for the injectors and glow plugs inside them. They tend to leak in the back corners and may look like your rear main seal or a pan gasket because they drip and run down over others parts.
  • nickerrrnickerrr Posts: 5
    It is probably your egr cooler which freezes your injectors and will cause white smoke- looking like a head gasket leak. Replace the cooler with an aftermarket tube welded cooler NOT the stock cooler from ford.
  • nickerrrnickerrr Posts: 5
    This sounds like a short in your wiring harness. Although I havnt had ths problem, my neighbor with an 01 did and he found the short and replaced the harness.
  • nickerrrnickerrr Posts: 5
    It says this code is a Manufacturer Specific Powertrain code. But everything seems to run alright. Now its also saying my glow plug circuit monitor bank 1. Any ideas?
  • I have a 2001 F350 turbo diesel. When I go to accelerate (passing or standing) quickly the tach jumps the power falls way off and I leave a cloud of blue smoke. It drives great cruises smooth, but any rapid acceleration blah...the engine has almost 200K I don't know exactly the previous owner rolled back the od. My MPG is ok at 17 when not towing. This is a fairly recent problem as it did not do it when I purchased it.
    Any help is greatly appreciated
  • f2502005f2502005 Posts: 1
    Periodically I will start my 6L Powerstroke and it will idle at about 500 RPMs but I can press the pedal to the floor with zero acceleration. I mean ZERO. I have to restart it a couple of times to get it to work or let it idle and "feather' the pedal until it injects gas and accelerates. I can drive all day without a problem or I can drive and have it happen a couple times a day. The FORD dealer does not have a clue as to what it is giong on. They changed the CAM Shaft sensor thinking that would fix it but it did not. Any ideas?
  • Had a new egr cooler instaled at 60,000 miles. Just had another one put in at 125,000.
    Had a mech. friend of mine told me about a kit that blocks off the cooler.Is this a good idel ? At 3,000 bucks every 60,000 miles this is getting old fast. Is this a problem everybody that owns a 6.0 goes through ? The mech. at ford even said this is a piece of crap engine.Got it out of shop 4 days ago and engine light came on this afternoon !Where would I go on the web to see if there is any kind of re-call from ford on this issue? Thanks for the help.
  • gerlad1gerlad1 Posts: 22
    Hi,
    I had a similar problem with my 2004 6.0 liter. No help from Ford in diagnosing the problem UNTIL I finally got one of the local Ford mechanics to spend a lot of time on the engine. Please read my 9/9/09 post # 694 for details.
    But in summary, apparently I had a bad electrical connnector causing a periodic loss of oil pressure as I understood it.
    While under warranty Ford had replaced accelerator system, etc. once the electrical connector was replaced (about 2 years ago) nothing seemed to help until they replaced this wiring connector. since then, I have never had another problem with the truck going to idle and no accelerator response.
    Good luck.
    Gerald
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