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Ford F-Series Powerstroke Diesel Problems

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  • My dad has a 96 f150 5.0 auto 4x4 196,000 miles, and a few months ago it started doing as you explained, but it started not as bad just stalling once in awhile, then it began to stall everytime you put it in drive, but not reverse. At first we thought it was the engine making it shift eraticly. Then we talked to a trany guy and he said it was a torque converter lockup soleniod making it lock the torque converter up like a clutch, which causing it to stall unless giving it alot of gas, then it would go. That didn't work, so everyone said the torque converter so we changed that, which didn't fix it, which makes sence because it doesn't stall in reverse.

    The solution was taking it to our local transmission guy which right away after looking at it said the vavle body was leaking fluid to the torque converter lockup. So he seggested a rebuild. Which after he took it apart found that clutch packs for 3rd and 4th gear were burnt from driving the truck in that condition(which caused more money) and a gasket on the vavle body was leaking locking the torque converter up all the time. After changing these parts it shifted beautiful.

    So I suggest to stop driving, only move it if nessecary, and to take it to a shop. Unless you have experiance with transmissions. They can tell you if the problem is in the trans. And if the problem is in the trans I would suggest letting the shop take it out and rebuild the entire thing, because it's only a few hundred more, and if anything happens they have to fix it before you take it back. That happen to my dad, we put the trany back in after getting it rebuit and i guess the reverse vavle he replaced failed and burnt the reverse clutches up, and this wkend we had to pull it back out and take it when the shop's open again to have that fix, but no charge. so that's a lesson we learned.

    I hope this helps and let us know what you find. Zack
  • They found out what was wrong, they said there is wiring under the vavle covers and something was bad there.
  • It sounds like your torque converter is bad and locking up. I would check the fluid and add or change of needed, also maby stop by a locol trany shop they will usually test drive and do simple diag for free. But until them I would drive as little as possible to avoid further damage to the trany.
  • If the torque converter was bad and locking up then it would do it in reverse. I'll bet the valve body will need rebuilt.
  • How many miles on the truck?
  • i was goin down the road and my truck suddenly died, the Wait To Start light in the dash wont come on and the truck just turns over and wont start. im thinkin its the GP relay but im not sure dont want to spend money on something i might not have to on. need help fast
  • found out it was my bowl heater that started to short out and was blowing a fuse in the cab, unplugged the heater and the truck starts up fine, its gunna cost over $550 to fix including labour, atleast the mechanic was nice enough to come to my place to have a look at the problem. :shades:
  • hello i have a unique problem that is different than any i have read here please help! my truck dies in several different situations such as shutting the doors, a bump in the road and sometimes it dies just for the heck of it and sometimes it drops to an idle and has no throttle response for a few seconds and then takes off . the truck runs fine when running and it always gives a service engine soon light when this happens and in the beginning it would not start until the service engine soon light went out but now sometimes it will re-fire with the light on i have been through a recall at which time they changed the cam sensor and befor the recall i had already changed 2 cam sensors with no result i only have 90.000 miles on it. i also have a intermittent batt light that comes and goes sometimes with the same bump in the road or the doors closing and sometimes i dont get a batt light for quite some time, the whole thing is unexplainable, sure with the door shutting and the bump thing i think elec connection but then sometimes a bump and the doors have nothing to do with it i have tried the "tap test" on the relays under the hood and have found nothing wrong as many of you know the ford mechanics are just parts changers and not real mechanics so i am trying my best to find the problem with out having to ring a service managers neck and save myself alot of money for my problem to still exist. i do have performance upgrades but i dont consider Banks performance upgrades as cheap junk as they know more about fords than does ford i use my truck for towing my race trailer i dont have the extreme upgrades everything i have is to enhance towing performance i hope someone here has or is familiar with the mysterious dieing problem as discribed. i read earlier on here about perhaps something like an ICP sensor on the fuel injection which sounded like a possibility except for the bump in the road thing or even a relay some guy said that was located near the kick panel on the passenger side now something like that i could see would be affected by a slamming door but sometimes it doesnt matter what door. somewhere there is a real real mechanic that can diagnose this in a heart beat, i myself am very mechanical and can handle the repair but i need a place to start
  • leighvleighv Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    check alarm wires and fuses. also there is a fuel shut off breaker on diesels. make sure u did not put gas in tank. depending on mix they will run for little wile.some stations have green on unleaded.look for the stuiped stuff 1st.i also had a alt.go bad on me that worked most of the time.i had it on the tester.it read good for 5 min. then nothing
  • about the bowl heater i have found that if you use the cheap filters they are a little to big and they push on the wires where they enter the housing. i had to replace the whole thing on my truck. and on 4 others . it only takes about an hour with basic tools.
  • luke73luke73 Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 f250 with a 7.3 diesel that runs at normal temps while on the road. When I stop for a few minutes the temp gauge goes to cold. I can leave the motor running and it cools down. I replaced the thermostat which seemed to help for a few days then went back to cooling down. I enstalled a factoy 195 deg thermostat. My feeling is these t-stats are junk. any ideas on what to do?
  • skptkmanskptkman Posts: 3
    edited January 2011
    have this problem with my truck it will just die driveing down the road but only when it is rainning, but will always start right back up ,any ideas?
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Posts: 161
    You might wanna look at your Air Intake or Electrical Wiring, sounds like either you are getting water in the Air or Wires or grounding out.
  • thanks cowboy for giving a girl a hand i will look at those
  • did you install an aftermarket cam sensor i.e. napa or car quest etc.
    if so thwe wipers when in delay interup the cam signal intermittently hope this helps you will meed to install a ford cam sensor newest pn
  • hi check for a fuse that control the computer to send signal to gp relay good look.
  • I checked the cam sensor, i would of never put the wipers and cam censor together, you know your stuff, i had a napa sensor in, replaced it with a ford cam sensor, problem solved. thank you so much for your help.
  • Have a 95 F350 crew cab. Vehicle sat for approx 3 yrs - needed transmission. Installed transmission, replaced fuel filter, crank sensor and 2 new batteries. Starts great but when you drive it & pedal is floored is doesn't seem like turbo is working right. Top speed of about 65 mph. Also water & fuel light goes on & off. Any ideas? Thanks!
  • having stall problems started 2 months ago. truck dies after warmed up and wont restart untill it sits for about 30 minutes started out this happened once every couple weeks and now it stalls every time i start it after running for 15-20 minutes what could this be?????
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