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Ford F-Series Gasoline Engine Problems

KCRam@EdmundsKCRam@Edmunds Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,495
For the gasoline crowd, discuss your engine issues here.

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KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Moderator

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Comments

  • I have a 2000 Ford F-250 with a 5.4 liter engine. It gets very poor gas mileage and bogs down when you try to accelerate. I have had it looked at by a mechanic and I asked if it could be related to the catalytic converter or the fuel injector. They gave me a bid to repair other problems with the truck but did not mention either of those things. I recently had the mass air flow sensor replaced. Has anyone else had this problem or have any suggestions for me?
  • I have a 93 F-250 with a 460 cube engine. It was running fine till the other day I was on a trip towing a trailer, itstarted sputtering and I could hardly go up a hill, maybe 10 mph. I stopped and the rig would idle but would not rev up, shook bad and I thought my tranny was going out but it idled good, just when I tryed to accelerate it would cut out. I replaced the gas filter, which had diry gas come out the back side, and replaced the oxy senser, neither helped. I got it onto a trailer and hauled it home, itstarted fine to get on the trailer and off, but in my shope itstarted and then died, will not start now. Any ideas, there is pressure in the fuel rail, have switched tanks back and forth , makes no difference.
  • 2003, F350, 5.4ltr, auto., 140k miles. Fuel pump problem every 10k/15k miles. The fuel pump has been replaced 8 times, and ready for #9.

    The symptoms before it goes out are: Lose of power under a load, erratic shifting under a load, erratic engine operation (RPMs go up to (4k+) but vehicle speed goes down). If you let up on the accelerator, engine RPMs come back to normal area and as long as you don't put it under a load it will keep running. If you try to accelerate rapidly, it will almost quit running and continue to slow down.

    The strange part of this is that while this is happening I can put the truck in Neutral turn the key Off/ON and it will run normally for another 30 minutes or so. (I know this is an unsafe practice while moving but I'm getting very frustrated.)

    The 1st pump went out at 15k. Ford dealer replaced the first 3 stating "contaminated fuel" was the cause. The next 5 were done by private shops. They could not give a cause other that a bad pump and did not find contaminated fuel. They could not explain the Neutral Off/On temporary fix either.

    It has been suggested that a ground wire might be missing of loose, but I could not tell. At the next replacement I am going to have a ground wire installed from the tank to the frame. At this point it can't hurt.

    If anyone has had a similar experience or has any suggestions, all will be considered.
  • we have a 1991 F150 V8 5.0 and the sepentine belt keeps shreading we have already changed out the tension pulley twice. What could be causing the problem please help!
  • Have you checked to see that all of your other pulleys, e.g water pump, alternator, A/C, etc. are all turning freely? The shredded belts may only be a symptom of a different problem.
  • It was the catalatyic (sp) converter, plugged so tight the exhaust couldn't go out.
  • jdfrmkyjdfrmky Posts: 15
    I've a 2004 F150 bought new 50k miles same problem.Went back to dealer once they reprogrammed computer that was fine then the driveability problem came back.Dealer hasn't a clue.I tried the Hypertech programmer recently,truck kept stalling at stops so reprogrammed to stock.
    The truck is an excellent highway cruiser but around town where we drive the most not so good.As with any make if you get a good one you are lucky. ;) I am awaiting new Chevy redesign.No more Fords.
  • I just had my replaced on a '98. It took out the water pump and a few other things. My VERY good mechanic said it's just "one of those things" like a timing chain. You just don't know when they're going to go. He also said that the bolts down at the chrankshaft pully have a tendancey to losen over time because of the aluminum block and just snap when lose enough. 113000 miles. total cost to repair 275.00. Not losing sleep over it.
  • I have a 97 F150 & the EGR valve has been changed out twice and it still shows a problem with the EGR valve. I even checked the throttle body for plugging but it was clear except for a little build up on the wall. Any info would be greatly apprecated. Allan
  • jib71jib71 Posts: 2
    I have 97 Lariat and recently i noticed play in the throttle cable that i don't recall being there before. When i look at the gas pedal i see about 1 inch of play before the pedal actually begins to pull on the cable. Is it possbile for this cable to stretch? Is there an adjustment i am overlooking?. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • Hi everybody, I've got a problem. I have a 94 Ford F150 with the 5.0. The truck has been sitting for a while and was just given to me (as long as I can make it run). Here's the problem. When the truck is started, idle is up around 1500 RPM, and it starts to settle down, once it hits about 800RPM it begins to backfire and the engine literaly jumps around in it's mounts (very bad misfire). I recently replaced spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap & rotor, and the car continues to behave in the same manner. One thing I've noticed is that the right bank (cylinders 1-4) is running extremely rich. I can tell for two reasons, when the spark plugs are pulled out, they are wet, black, and smell of gasoline, the right bank is more of a silvery "new" look. Also, if I let the truck run for a few minutes, give it some gas, the right catalyst begins to glow red.

    I really haven't a clue how to proceed. A friend of mine tested the fuel pressure and it appears acurate within the specifications (about 42 psi) while idling (even when it gets really rough). Any help or ideas is appreciated. Thanks.

    -Wil
  • Doesn't your truck have two Oxygen sensors? If so, then possibly the O2 sensor for the right bank of cyclinders is dead and it's now running open loop and sending the rwrong mixture into the cylinders. O2 sensor is located upstream from the catalyst. A replacement costs about $50

    Don't let the repair go too long, all the excess gas is now burning in the catalyst and it will eventually melt the substrate and plug it. Catalyst = $$$ repair.
  • I have a 93 F-150 with a 351. I am getting fuel pressure, and spark, but the injectors are not getting pulses. I used a noid lite and get nothing. What could cause this?
  • halesjshalesjs Posts: 3
    I have a 1988 F150 4.9 L straight-6 FI 190,000 miles
    The truck will not stay running I have to constantly pump the accelerator to get it to start the motor runs real rough then I hold the pedal ¼ down the motor smoothes out runs for 5 seconds then dies. It runs so rough than a vacuum gage moves from 1 to 10 hg will not hold steady and does climb to al most normal when motor smoothes out for the 5 seconds
    What could this be and or could you put me on the right track to finding out what to do.
    I cannot take it in to run codes on the motor until I can get it to start and run.
    I have replaced both fuel pumps, in-tank & frame rail plus fuel filter. In addition, made sure the intake air is not restricted. I also checked the exhaust it seems to be clear but did find the tube that runs from the EGR down to the exhaust is broke off at the exhaust pipe">
    Help
    Jerry
  • dcoverdcover Posts: 7
    Last vehicle I had with those symptoms, had a clogged catalytic converter. If you can pull the exhaust loose ahead of the converter you can easily test the theory.
  • halesjshalesjs Posts: 3
    Tanks for the info
    I separated the exhaust pipe and did not seem to help. I was also told to check and make sure I am not losing fuel pressure to the rear tank, will be checking this today, I'll let you all know what i find.
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