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Ford F-Series Gasoline Engine Problems



  • I had the same prob on my 91 ford, 302 motor. There is a secondary inginition module on the side of the distributor, or it is on the side of the fender well where the fuse box is. Check your repair manual to locate it. If it is on the dist. you will have to pull the dist to change it . BE SURE to mark the timing brfore you take anything loose. The same thing happened to me, after its runs a while the thing will skip and eventually die , and will not crank, but after bout 30 min the thing would fire and run fine for a while and then the cycle would start back. Im pretty sure it is not the fuel pump, if it was it would run crappy all the time. The ingnition module is only bout $20, and easy to change. Thats where i would start. Fuel pump is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to change, and its bout $90.
  • When you changed the plugs did you put new wires on. If not make sure the truck starts and runs normal before you do this. Take water (hose or spray bottle) and spray the wires while the trucks running and if it starts to miss an acts up that maybe the reason for the engine missing. It's a simple start! Zack
  • raspyraspy Posts: 3
    thanks for info but when mine dies it will still crank it just wont hit, the funny thing is according to the last owner the rear tank leaked and the front tank had a bad pump so he said he put the entire unit from the rear tank into the front tank and removed the rear tank all together witch definately makes the fuel gage way off and the dash switch was pushed into the dash so it could not be used but these actions were done over a year ago, so i dont see why they would have an impact now
  • When the truck dies is there any spark, the coil maybe going bad?
  • raspyraspy Posts: 3
    thanks buddy for the input, resolved the problem today. it died on me again today. and boy does it have spark, ye haw. it did turn out to be the fuel pump itself. Aparently the pump would overheat and shut off and then cool down enough to restart after five minutes. and it is also the factory original pump from the rear tank. 187000 on it. and thanks to everyone else who gave their opinions and advice it was very helpful. i will be passing on this site to people i know with positive marks!
  • We changed the IAC (idle air control), it must of stuck open when the truck was hot that,s why when it warmed up it ran fine.
  • 97 f-150, 65,000 miles. fuel pump also :)
  • dare3dare3 Posts: 2
    i have 4.2 v6 and it is running rough.i pulled codes and there were 4.they are p0171 to lean bank 1, po174 to lean bank 2,po316 misfire 1st 1000 revs,and misfire cylinder 1. anyone have any idiea
  • How many miles and the year, have you did a tune up on it since you've had it (plugs and wires)? Thats where i'd start. I'll look in my scanner troubleshooter.
  • dare3dare3 Posts: 2
    i have 170,000 miles . first thing i did was plug and wires .did compression after posting today ,test was fine. i guess i am going to start with the ect sensor ,maybe coil. i am not sure what to do but thanks for responding and if you have any other ideas that would be great.oh its a 2002 thank you
  • Try testing the IAC Idle Air Control, my dads truck (01 150 5.4L) it would stall alot and somtimes stay running but run rough, an it hesitated. We change that an it runs like a new one. This could maybe explain the O2 sensor reading too lean.

    Also did you do a test on the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) that can make it run bad. I unplugged the one in my jeep while searching for problems and it started to run rough and barly run?
  • I have a 1997 F-150 with a 4.2 V6 and a 5 speed std.

    At 110,000 miles the intake manifold gasket leaked on top of #4 cyl bending the rod and busting the piston.

    I was told that 1997 and 1998 where bad about doing this.

    Now i have fond a 4.2 V6 out of a 2003 F-150 and a 5 speed std for $250.00.

    Will this fit in my 1997?

    If so what will i have to do to make it work?

    I have had a lot of Yes and No's.

    But if no way not its the same motor?

    please help me out if you can.
  • I own a '95 ford E150 econoline van. I had this same problem. I fought it for a long time an always it was the EGR valve codes. I replaced the valve and all the lines and there were many small vacumm lines. Finally I changed the intake manifold gasket. I have 170K on the van now and it is running great. It isn't easy to change the gasket but it did the trick. It is difficult to change it in a van but well worth the hard labor. 30K since repair.

    Good luck!
  • jts46jts46 Posts: 3
    edited February 2010
    loss of power climbing hills chugs with what power there is left
    computer had 2 faults egr & fuel relay. switched relay with horn relay cleared computer ran great for 2 day and problem back. unpluged egr and installed kill switch in place of relay lasted few hours and problem back what direction to go next
    did tune up except fuel filter already
  • I would check the fuel pump discharge pressure. Particularly when it is chug(ing) (?) if you can. I had the same type of problem with my 91 f-150, found a bad connection in the fuel tank where someone else had tried to jury rig a connection. Most of the time would run but poorly to sometimes almost good.
    Please try to include the engine type and use complete descriptive sentences. Let me know what you find but it does sound like the fuel pump.
  • jts46jts46 Posts: 3
    this is a 5.8liter fuel inject 4speed stick. for a 95 it all looks org underneath the vech
    am i looking for hoses or wires or both for this connection problem?
  • The Fuel pump for your truck is in your fuel tank, it will be necessary to drop your fuel tank to gain access to the pump. However, I suggest that first you check the fuel pump discharge pressure. There is a fuel pressure test fitting in the engine compartment, probably on the back side of the engine usually just behind the intake manifold. On my truck (91 F-150 4.9L I6) it is chrome with a connector that looks like a schrader valve (inner tube fill valve). You will need the proper gage with the proper fitting to screw it onto the fitting of the truck. This gage is available at about any auto parts house. Be sure to follow all instructions that are included. I would also purchase a Chilton repair Manual (Aprox. $20.00) which will be of great value during all minor repairs like this one. If they don't have Chilton, check for Haynes Manual, should be the sme price. I have both. Good investment.
  • jts46jts46 Posts: 3
    thanks i'll be looking tomorrow for this hookup
  • have a 1999 f-250 with hesitation problems at full throttle, sounds similar to you problems
  • need some advice, change fuel pump, fuel filter mas ,plugs, air filter, ran injecter cleaner several tanks in a row, still same problem of hesitating at wot, no dtc's but scanner found that truck stays in closed loop fuel cycle and advice?
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