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Ford F-Series Gasoline Engine Problems

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  • breckriderbreckrider Posts: 2
    It's an 89 F250 7.5 8 cyl lariat package. When the engine is revved it sounds like there's some sort of whine like something spinning freely then the engine begins to lose power and there's a burning smell like hot metal on hot metal some some slight smoke. I couldn't tell for sure but it looked greyish. There's oil in it. WHen driving it on the road it very little power.

    Any clues? Any other information you need?
  • armstrongrarmstrongr Posts: 2
    hello i have a 1988 f150 6cyl. manuel , it will start up and run fine ,then after 10 min it cuts off . no spark!! wont start again till the next morning
  • armstrongrarmstrongr Posts: 2
    hello , i have been on this for a week and no responce , dosn't anyone have a clue , i have replaced ing. controller twice (side of distributer) and replaced coil , the only thing left that i can think of is the computer , but it is giving me no codes (maybe thats why i need to replace it ,, what do you'll think ???
  • f150lemmonf150lemmon Posts: 1
    I am hoping that someone can help me. I have a brand new F150, only 4k miles w/ engine overheating after just driving a few miles down the road. The truck has been towed to the dealership numerous of times. Now we have 4000 miles and the dealership has had the truck for the past THREE WEEKS and cannot figure out what the problem is. My trade in has already been sold and the dealership just now agreed to give me a rental. Is there anyone out there having this same problem? Please help!
  • backmanbackman Posts: 5
    What is the intake,peleumin torque on v6 4.2 F150??in inch pounds??my intakes blew and i need the torque,my mech says he does not torque just tightens by hand .i dont like that idea,this engine has 130,000 is this a common problem?when will it happen again?? Thanks Rick in pa
  • I recently purchased my 1995 F150 with 4x4 5.0 automatic transmission. Ran great when I purchased, then began running rough and started dying after driving awhile. I thought the in-line fuel filter needed replacing, so I did. But, it didn't solve my problem. I later R&R spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor cap & ignition coil. Problem continued. Began having check engine error codes. Autozone said codes indicated EGR and vehicle speed sensor. So I replace those. Problem still exist. When you first start engine you can hear fuel pumps engaging in both fuel tanks. But, after engine warms it dies and won't restart and can no longer hear fuel pumps engaging. R&R fuel pump relay, still no help. Beginning to think it may be vehicle's EEC control module. Can someone PLEASE help. THANKS!!
  • volvostepvolvostep Posts: 1
    Any suggestions: The truck has a rebuilt 302 with a ho cam only thing not stock as i found it. When i use it around town plowing or pulling my 2 harley trailer its fine no codes. But when i try to go up hills serious pulling the engine light comes on and it starts missing then it goes off and couple seconds later it has power again. Ran computer codes and it had 172,173 no 1 bank rich and lean codes. Also when pulling the air conditioning vent switches from vent to defrost. has a new mass air,computer,could it have clogged the cat converter? Only has one o2 sensor upstream of cat. Help! Truck went to Fla and back with problem blew the first motor. has new one ho cam don't want to blow 2nd. Thanks.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Clue - "AC vent switches from vent to defrost."

    You've got a good sized vaccuum leak somewhere. In addition to the other egnine function, vaccuum is used to hold the ventilation system actuator door in the vent/floor/etc. positions. When you have little or no vaccuum, the ventilation system goes back to default state - defrost. (It's done that way for safety.)

    Look for brittle vaccuum lines - especially where they go into the firewall.

    Not sure it will solve all your problems but once the vaccuum leak is gone it may make them easier to diagnose.

    GOod luck.
  • fomoconafomocona Posts: 19
    I'm sorry to hear about your situation with your new F-150. Ford is committed to repairing your vehicle. I'd recommend that you work with your dealer's service manager to get your concern resolved. If you need further assistance from Ford, please call the Customer Relationship Center at 800-392-FORD (3673). They would be in the best position to assist you further.
  • saab2saab2 Posts: 6
    2002 F150 with smaller V8 began to make expensive exhaust noises under the hood at only 35000 miles. Since it was out of warranty I first took it to a muffler chain for their estimate, $600 to replace the manifold which had a visible crack. They said odds were good the other side wasn't far behind. Went to my Ford dealer and politely expressed my displeasure at things falling apart this early. They did their exam and said that not only was the obvious side bad, but the other side had 2 broken studs and was going to go soon. The good news... Ford picked up 2/3rds of the $1500 cost. It shouldn't have let go this early, but they did stand behind their product so I got the work done there, all is well for now.
  • neil68neil68 Posts: 1
    it could be your stater, which is located inside your distribitor.
  • ricardop1ricardop1 Posts: 3
    Hi all-

    I just took in my 2005 F150 for scheduled 60,000 mile service at my Ford dealership. The service advisor indicated that, though a change of spark plugs and tune up is not on the factory recommended maintenance schedule until 100,000 miles, 'they' are finding that the long-interval spark plugs are in some cases sticking to the heads, and that the dealership recommends a spark plug replacement and tune up at 60,000 miles, rather than the factory recommended 100,000. Has anyone else heard of this, or is the dealership just trolling for extra work that's not necessary?
  • vtech1vtech1 Posts: 1
    Hi,

    It is some what true. The 2004 - 2005 5.4 engines do have spark plug problems. There is a TSB out on the proper removal procedures and also the recommendations to remove the spark plugs ever 50,000km and clean and coat them with a nickel antiseeze. You don't have the replace them at this time since they still last for 160,000km. New plugs cost 16.00CND each. ooch!!!
  • ricardop1ricardop1 Posts: 3
    Thanks very much for the information. I will be sure to bring up the TSB with the dealer and replace the plugs the way Ford says to do so.

    Thanks again.
  • zediccuszediccus Posts: 1
    Well I have an 86 F-150 300 carb.----- well my truck runs great for about 10 miles or less as soon as it heats up it dies drops in RPM'S backfire's then dies I replaced the fuel filter, the igniton control modual, and the fuel pump I think it maybe a bad cab?
  • schmidtyschmidty Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 F150 with the 4.9 liter in it. I have started to have all kinds of issues with it. First the alternator, then the battery, then the o2 sensor. I know the truck is starting to get up ther in age, but it just turned 100,000 miles and it seems to be having all kinds of issues now! The latest is the truck has no power to it what so ever. I had a code reader hooked up to it and it said the MAF sensor, Ho2 sensor, and the o2 sensor are bad. I changed the o2 sensor and it did nothing for the power. The sensor was bad. The porceline was broke inside. But the power issur still remains. Do I just start replacing all of these items @ $50.00 plus a crack or can someone give me some advice on where to start. The truck has barely any power to go up hills, on the highway to pass, and even starting out in first gear. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!! Thanks!
  • 2004 F150 5.4 motor. 2wd 65500 miles. Suddenly (of course) no idle. It starts and runs but she goes cold when I lift off the gas to stop. Your ideas please so they don't get me too good so to speak at the repair depot.
    thanks
  • we have had problems with the long PZT.1f spark plugs breaking off in the cylinder head leaving the bottom half of the plug in the cylinder head, this was on 05 f150 with 96k miles, there is a TSB that outlines a procedure to remove the remaining lower half of the spark plug, however this procedure will not work all the time, and then requires that cylinder head to be removed to complete the repair. ford is fully aware of this problem. we are recommending to our customers that the pzt model of spark plugs be changed between 50k and 60k service.
  • tadortador Posts: 4
    Hey, I've had a problem on an older Ford with the high pressure fuel pump relay, it had VERY similar symptoms, you might try locating the fuel pump relay switch and replacing it. I'd like to compare some notes with you on your super-duty. I have a 99' that I'm having some strange engine problems with. Wondering if your symptoms are the same or different. Shoot me an email if you could to discus, NastyF150@yahoo.com
    -Taylor
  • tadortador Posts: 4
    I have a 1999 F-250 with a 5.4,
    The problem I'm having is really baking my noodle. The engine skips,... somewhat at steady throttle, and BADLY with a load on it, I would say it's dropping 4 cylinders when under load... if you let out, they come right back. It doesn't skip when the ECM is in closed circuit mode, and it doesn't do it "as much" when it's HOT, as in ... at least a half hour to an hour of driving. It's blowing no codes,... I've seen coil issues with these trucks in the past, and have already replaced all 8. I'm really stumped at this point, any suggestions out there?
    -Taylor Email: NastyF150@yahoo.com
  • If your going through fuel pumps that soon, it obvious that there is an electrical issue. Do not use a test light, use a DVM. The easiest way to check this is first remove your passenger side kick panel. At the fuel shut off swich or inertia switch check the amount of voltage at both wires. Key on of course. There are two to be looking at, a green wire and a yellow wire. Sometimes FORD ran out of that color wire and used a different color, but it is the wires at your inertia switch that you will be checking. If the voltage at each wire has near battery voltage with the key on engine off, we are done here and we can assume for the moment that your relay, your ignition switch and wiring to that point is good. If you do not have near battery voltage at both wires, unplug the conector and check the power wire, key on remember! If power going in is good your switch ect is good. Plug it back in and cut the power wire coming out of the inertia switch and if it checks good, your inertia switch is good. If this is the case, the actual voltage at the pump must be checked. The fuel pump will actually run on about 10.5 volts but it wont last very long. A common problem that is overlooked by mechanics is resistance in the hanger assembley. The hanger assembly is what your fuel pump and fuel gauge sending unit is mounted on in the tank. The voltage must be checked with a DVM or equivilent at the wires on the hanger assembly on the side that is in the tank. I have found this to be the cause each time this problem is reported to me by a customer. When you are turning your key on/off and it solves the problem for a short time that makes perfect sense. When the key is first turned on there is a surge of power going through the system. This will sometimes overcome resistance for a period of time. Good luck.
  • Wish I knew the code u were getting and engine size. If the code is low flow or just a general malfunction code possible casues are: EVR (Electric Vaccum control Regulator) Normally when these go bad the symptom is also an intermitant surging during idle and even dies but will restart right away and then the problem goes away for awhile. Differential Feedback EGR sensor, there is also two small vaccum lines one slightly larger than the other coming off your exhuast to a sensor mounted usally on the valve cover, (drivers side in the engine compartment). Check to see if these hoses or exhuast tubes are plugged up. Careful not to break them during the check.
    Good luck
  • Not sure what ya mean by the ECM statement. The ECM is part of the PCM. If your talking about the vehicle in closed loop. Any way sounds like a bad vehicle speed sensor. When the vehicle warms it might be malfuctioning only then. Good luck
  • I have got a '99 F-150 with the 5.4L V8. Just recently the start up time has been elongating. It does not sound like an electrical problem because it turns over like it should but turns over for way too long before it starts. A lot of the times it even bogs down some right before it starts. If I had driven the truck in the past 30 minutes and go to start it again, it starts just fine. I had all the spark plugs replaced a little over a year ago. I am afraid the fuel pump is slowly going out, but was hoping it might be a smaller problem. Also, I just noticed about a half inch rubber hose dangling under my bed right inside of the rear driver side tire. A cousin told me it could be a ventilation tube, but was not sure. Help please.
  • Not much to go on and I'm unsure of your dignostic ability, but here is my slant.
    Sounds like you have a cold start problem only. No check engine light or trouble code. Spray a liberal amount of starter fluid into the throttle body not the air cleaner area, and then imediately replace the intake hose prior to starting it cold. If it starts up right away, Your lean, or not enough fuel when cold. You will need a screw driver to temporarely remove that black intake hose.

    If this works the most common problem is with the ECT or sometimes called a CTS. There are two sensors for coolant temperature. One is for your gauge and idiot light, and one is used by the PCM to determine how long to keep the injectors open to squirt fuel(pulse width). This electronic coolant temperature (ECT)sensor also helps the PCM determine timing amoung other things. If the computer thinks the engine is always hot, well not enough fuel to start that cold engine and make it run right. This will not sent a trouble code or turn your check engine light on either. The PCM is just doing what it is told to so to speek, It is located near your thermostat housing and is a two wire plug. Try disconecting it and see if the problem goes away when engine cold. Disconecting it will turn your check engine light on and set a code. To reset, just disconect the negative cable to the battery, and reconnect the sensor.

    Unknown how many miles on the truck. Bad spark plugs will cause this also.
    Is it tune up time?

    Low fuel pressure will also cause a cold start problem, and not set a code. Fords will run with inadaquit fuel pressure when warmed up, and will even sometimes start without proper pressure. Good luck with it.
  • Replaced the engine with a long block 5.4, original had 400k and no compression, has been at the shop now for several months and won't run, they have swapped out the sensors and computer and all is working ok, computer says engine not running, will start but spitting out lots of black soot from exhaust and won't rev up? any ideas what to try or could be wrong?
  • You didn't specify if you have a Dual Overhead Cam DOHC or just the 5.4L. Will run, probably like crap, wont rev up. Black soot, yada, yada, PCM indicates not running.

    Not much to go on because I'm not there to figure it out, but here is my opinion.

    Black soot most likely indicates either too much fuel or improper combustion.
    Not being able to rev the engine up indicates improper timing of the engine.

    What I gather is the PCM is confused as to where TDC is (top dead center), and cannot time the engine properly. The cam sensor is used by the PCM to synchronize fuel injection with ignition controls and timing. The cam sensor uses a single vane driven by the camshaft to send a signal to the PCM.

    On 5.4L DOHC if one of the timing chains is off by one tooth you will experience this problem. Wrong cam shaft with the vane in the wrong place will also cause this. Pulse ring slipped over woodruff key and out of position giving false info to crank sensor,

    On 5.4lL I would suspect a problem with the synchronization between the crank shaft sensor and cam sensor. Recomend check pulse ring on crank shaft dampner and proper location of the single signal vane on the camshaft used by the cam sensor.

    If your going to show this to your mechanics, mention dead time the engine and verify proper alignment of timing marks, camshaft vane, and pulse ring on crankshaft. Good luck with it.
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