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Ford F-Series Gasoline Engine Problems

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  • 2001 F 150 111,000 K
    While pulling a hill, the engine light came on, truck lost power but kept running. Took it in they said needed a tune up. They did plugs and wires (which they said were arcing), fuel filter, air filter. Light went off, ran good for 3-4 days and light came back on, same problem. Low power, drop in gas milage, have let it warm up or it won't run, have to put pedal to the floor to get it to down shift on the highway. Code said that it "fuel lean" or "lean fuel". Anyone have any idea's?

    Thank you!!
  • Lean fuel is telling you something. The PCM has detected a lean condition.

    Most likely causes;

    ECT sensor faulty(electononic cooling tempurature sensor). Sending signal to PCM that engine is warm when it is actually cold. (This will not set an individual code.) Pulse width of the fuel injectors is determined by this information.

    EGR valve pintel intermitantly sticking open due to carbon or other malfuction. This will cause a lean condition, and make running the engine very difficult unless you are at wide open throttle on the freeway.

    Vaccum leak causing lean condition until engine warms and metal componets expand to stop the leak.

    Intermitant problem with fuel pressure, or low fuel pressure due to a faulty fuel pump. Since you stated that your problem goes away after engine is warmed up, this is very unlikely the problem.

    Every 60k your EGR is suppose to be serviced and cleaned due to carbon build up. Your ECT sensor is a sepperate sensor from your temp gauge sensor and is used by the PCM to give extra fuel when engine is cold, and kill the engine when over heating occures. One or both of these two things are most likely your problem from the symtom you described. Good luck with it.
  • wedellwedell Posts: 2
    I have exactly the same problem with my F250 1999 Engine cylinders start missing when I put a load in truck. Did you figure out what was wrong with yours?
  • Yes, figured out what was wrong, the engine builders had but a reductor gear from a v10 on the v8 engine build. From what I understand this drives the camshafts which resulted in the timing being out.
  • I just bought a 2004 f-150 with the 5.4, 3v, with 60k miles. The truck runs like a top, clean carfax, prior owner reported no problems and local Service manager ran the vin on Ford's system and found only a minor recall for a check engine light when the truck was 3 months old. Before buying, the oil looked good on the stick,but when I changed the oil and pulled the filler cap on the valve cover, it was full of "cream" indicative of moisture in the oil.
    I have seen on another forum that short drives (wife drives about 4 miles, one way, to work) in cold weather, the engine does not generate enough heat to cook off the condensation in the engine. The oil from the pan did not show any indication of water.
    Is there a solution to this, short of having her drive 12 miles out of the way to work just to build heat?
  • mac46mac46 Posts: 3
    The truck just wont climb a hill. Downshifts and slows down to about 30mph.
    RPMs never go over 2500 to 2800. Even when I pop it in nuetral - no more rpms.
    I have to nurse it from a stop to about 50 on the flats. If it starts to loose speed it will downshift and go even slower. Can't pass anything if I try it downshifts and revs to about 2500 and slows down. Dont think it is a tranny problem because if I throw it into nuetral the rpms dont go up or go up very slowly. The engine idles fine and does not have a miss. Help
  • Before you assume this is some kind of condisation. You may have the beginings of a blown head gasket. Lets hope not. Or, there was a blown head gasket prior to you owning it and that area was never cleaned. Anyway if this is just some condisation that builds up and leaves a oil water mix just in the oil cap area. You might try an after market breather. As far as cleaning it out, just use some carb cleaner spray. It wont' hurt anything and will eventually evaporate.
  • hey guys i'm having problems with my truck. I turned right today an it shut off. I figured it had overheated which it did but now it won't start. It will turn over but it won't fire up. I'm wondering if this is an gas problem or if there is something wrong with my engine. any help would be much appriciated. :confuse:
  • mac46mac46 Posts: 3
    After checking everything else I found out it was my Cat converter. It was totally clogged.
  • Have the truck diagnosed (any auto parts store can check for errors). My guess is that the oxygen sensor in the exhaust on that side, which will make it run rich.
  • Was the converter clogged from bad emissions, or did animals (mice, etc) get into the exhaust system with nesting material or food?
  • mac46mac46 Posts: 3
    The ceramic cone was clogged. I was gray in color instead of off white. The million little holes were almost all closed. I was told it may have over heated.
  • My 1989 5.0L F150 has started to use a lot more gas then before. It is running fairly will but blows a little black smoke and smells slightly rich. cats are new. top half of engine has been rebuilt (was running rich prior) has only one sensor on exhaust. engine runs at normal temp and only slight increase under heavy load. gas useage has gone up by almost doulbe. engine does not use oil and starts first turn every time. can not find any vacum leaks have checked when engine is first started from cold. all new plus wires and filters. Uses same amount of gas under heavy load and with no load.
  • I have a 2004 F-150 with the 4.6 in the cold weather 20 degrees or colder it make s a annoying whistleing noise. This noise occursximately 1700- 2000 rpms, it backs off when let off the pedal. But it's worse as the temp gets colder. Performance and mpg not affected any ideas.
  • I have the exact same problem in my 04 f-150 Lariat and so does my husband on his 04 f-150, I am meeting with the owner of the Dealership on Tues Feb 19th in reference to other issues in Service- and will add this to my list!!!
    I will get back to ya if you want to know the outcome with this and the "Clutch Packs" in the rear! If you have ANY dragging sensations, clunking or BINDING in 4WD H or L, Get it looked @ asap, because I was strung along for almost 10 months and 4 visits in the same issue!!!!!!!!!!!!! And after researching it in the summer I brought up the clutch paks and told them to chk them and they obviously lied that they had!! I just got my truck back yesterday from Having them install the paks and another $100 deduct on my EXTRA CARE Xtended warrenty! What A JOKE! So, I will let ya know hiow it goes! Kimberely
  • Kimberley I have read your posting. What was the outcome did you have any positive results from your dealer. pleaes let me know. Dogman4
  • navynetnavynet Posts: 2
    94 F-150 5.0 engine. 70K miles. Starts instantly on first start of the day. When warm/hot will not start unless throttle held on the floor. Had all the standard stuff checked, injectors cleaned, etc. No codes show. Otherwise runs very well.
  • You might have a malfuctioning ECT sensor. If the signal is telling your PCM your engine is always cold, after warm up the PCM will hold the pulse width of the injectors open too long a flood your engine with extra fuel. This will also not set a code, and also explain why holding the throttle wide open helps start it. Easy way to check is unplug it after warm up. This will turn your check engine light on, but force the PCM to guess engine temp. If you have an easier start up after this test, I would suspect a problem with this sensor. It is a two wire sensor mounted near the thermostat housing. Don't confuse this one with the one that works your guage/idiot light. This ECT electronic cooling temperature sensor is soley for the PCM to know engine temp, so it can determine the amount of fuel to give your engine.
  • navynetnavynet Posts: 2
    mickeymouse2
    You are 100% correct. Removed old ECT, it fell apart in my hands. Installed new ECT - problem gone. Now starts like new. Thank you. DaveC
  • mike9408mike9408 Posts: 74
    My 91 f150 jerks and kicks when I try to excellerate or even just try to maintane speed. If I am very jental with excelleration it will increase kinda ok, but any hills or anything then I am in trouble. Can anyone help? Mike
  • First make sure you didn't get a tank of bad gas. Next I would try a can of really good injector cleaner to make sure the injectors are clean. Next is plug wires, plugs, and then coil. If you are getting a check engine light a scanner may help pinpoint the problem. one way to pinpoint which cylinder a problem is coming from is to remove one spark plug wire at a time and see if their is a difference in the way it runs. If you remove a good cylinder wire it will run worse . Remove the problem cylinder wire there will be no difference in the way it runs. Problem could be other things but these are the things I would check first. Always remove rings and jewelry when working around electrical components . I would stop engine and then remove wire then re start engine in doing test. a lot of voltage run through plug wires. Also a trick I learned many years ago from the old timers was to raise the hood in the dark and look at the plug wires and coil and distributor . Some times but not always you can see an arch around a cracked component.
  • mike9408mike9408 Posts: 74
    Thankyou for the input. I had the injectors cleaned about 500 mi ago, also put new ignition wires and sparkplugs in, but did note when I did that #3 &6 were terribly fouled,( worse than I have ever seen) I will check them again. No check engine lite, but rear anti-lock lite stays on most of the time. Thankyou Mike9408
  • mike9408mike9408 Posts: 74
    for "diehardford", thankyou very much for the advice. I ended up pulling the cheap plugs I had purchased earlier, tossed them and replaced with my old favorite. Got rid of the problem. Guess now I remember why I stick to what works and remember what often doesn't. thankyou very much for the attention you gave. I am truly happy it wasn't worse than I had found (with your help of course). I was dreading pcm's sending units, locating etc etc etc. thankyou, Mike 9408
  • mike9408mike9408 Posts: 74
    To diehardford, thankyou very much for the advice. I actually already answered this but found your advice from my origional message. so, Fuel is good, the only thing I did was replace the plugs again. Threw the plugs out that I put in about 500 mi ago. Put in my old favorite standby. (Champion) It is running like a good truck now. Thankyou very much. And I won't buy those other plugs again. Guess I just had a brain foul when I bought them. Trying to get buy cheap. Not worth it. thanks again. Mike9408
  • Mike Glad I could help. Some times a clogged pvc valve will cause the back cylinders to foul plugs. I would change that out . They are only a few dollars. Also try bleeding the rear brakes that might cure the anti lock brake light. You might want to invest in a chilton or haynes repair manual for that truck. They are 7 to 15 dollars at most advance auto and auto zone stores. Lots of useful info for that model.
  • Hello,
    I have a 94 f-250 with the 5.8 and I noticed the other day that I had a lot of fan noise and loss of power so I replaced the fan clutch which was bad. I'm still having the same problem though. I know it needs some new plugs and probaly new wires and rotor but I don;t understand the whole fan thing. The oil pressure has always been low on the truck but it has always ran great and had no knocks or ticks. Any advice?
  • mike9408mike9408 Posts: 74
    Can anyone tell me why Ford designed the exhaust manifold for the 4.9L the way they did? I can see no reason for it other than possibly the installation of a turbo or something. I would truly like to know so if you can answer the question, I will be watching out for it and will appreciate it. Thankyou, Mike9408
  • trobertctrobertc Posts: 5
    I have a 1987 Ford F150 (4.9 300ci FI 4x4. 4 speed manual) I have a problem when it warms up it starts choking and stalling.. I replaced the fuel filter because I thought it had some trash in the tank but It still stalls when it gets warm. I am sure I have enough gas but I am lost. Could it be the Rotor cap and button?. I don't think it is the catalytic convert. for it doesn't glow when hot. Cn any one help me?
  • mike9408mike9408 Posts: 74
    I had this problem once, found it to be the coil. When it (engine)came up to operating temprature apparently the coil would expand enough to open a circut inside and stop the engine till it cooled enough to make contact again and the engine would then run. Mike9408
  • trobertctrobertc Posts: 5
    Thanks mike I will try that, I am up to anything right now.. its driving me crazy.
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