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Ford F-Series Gasoline Engine Problems



  • notlobnotlob Posts: 10
    I just talked with my service tech today at my dealership. Took my 04 150 5.4 3v in for a throttle valve problem. He had changed out my plugs last week and five of them were busted durning removal. he showed me the plugs (new) and now I can understand how they could be broken after they have been in the engine for some time. Plugs are normally good for 100k. , but the carbon build up would be very heavy long before 100k. Using Lucus Fuel treatment would help burn off the carbon build-up. Unscrewing the plug is not the problem, it's the extended tip of the plug that freezes in the alum head. A tech that's knows his trade can remove the extended tip without damage to the head. Take your trip, I have driven my F150 up to Wisc. many times about 2000k round trip and up to Ny a couple of times. I enjoy the trip in the truck over a car anytime. Notlob
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Posts: 161
    This is true about the Ford V8's and the spark plugs. The problem is not that the origial plugs blow out, it is when they are taken out the first time the carbon on the plug thread damages the spark plug thread. For what ever it is worth, when taking the plugs out, loosen 1/4 turn then retighten to break off the carbon from the old plug. Increase the amount of the turn each time by a 1/4 turn until you have made one complete turn, then remove. Napa sells a replacement spark plug that has a longer thread on it and goes deeper into the head. By doing this I havent had any of the new spark plugs pop out of any of the V8's I have done.
  • mad17mad17 Posts: 1
    Have been waiting for a Catalytic Converter for our 2005 F-150 truck since Feb. 24th ,2009. Took it to the dealer (under warranty). Have called Ford to complain. Started in March/It is now the end of June. Keep telling me next month/no they say July 22nd. Meantime my fail safe mode has come on. This is the only vehicle i have. Summertime/we camp alot. Can't do anything til i get this fixed.
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Posts: 161
    If it is that big of a deal getting a CAT. Just remove it and put an extension tube in there in its place until the part comes in. The down stream O2 sensor will set a code of poor CAT efficiency, but who cares! Your truck will still run.
  • mfeldermfelder Posts: 2
    93 f150 with 5.0 it is hard starting but idles good if i baby it it will go down the road but if i acclerate normal it acts like it out of fuel if i stay on the acclerator itll stall if i back off of it alittle it regains power .ive replaced fuel filter ,o2 sen.,fuel regulator ,air filter ,roter, dis.cap, and cheched other sensors by unpluging and looking at the check engine light and they all came on when unpluged and went off plug in. it has dual tanks and runs the same on both. help!!!!!!!!!!
  • lewscrewlewscrew Posts: 3
    I have a 99 F350 V10. I recieved the EGR system fault code. I replaced the EGR Valve and sensor and I still receive the code even after resetting the check engine light. Does anyone know what outhere things would cause this code?
  • notlobnotlob Posts: 10
    I would check the vacuum line to the EGR to make sure there is no problem with it. Pop
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Posts: 161
    If your trouble code is "EGR malfuction" Here are the possible causes: Electrical, EGR, EVR or DPFE, disconected hose or clogged or broken DPFE tube.

    You already replaced the EGR so that wasn't it. If it is an electrical problem, ouch very hard to diagnose.

    Other causes and most common are DPFE (Differential Presure Fedback EGR sensor) or EVR (Electronic vaccum Regulator to EGR) I know a real mouth full.

    1st: If you are not experiencing weird idle changes along with this trouble code, it is unlikely that the EVR is malfuctioning. It could be not working at all and not opening the EGR with vaccum. This is the cheaper sensor too. About $35

    2nd: On your exhuast manifold are 2 tubes one bigger than the other leading up to the DPFE. This sensor reads back pressure changes in the exhuast when the EGR is told to open. If the signal is not correct, bingo....t-code. Check to see if the tubes are clogged up or if one of the hoses came off the DPFE sensor. This sensor isnt cheap! If you have an exhuast leak, fix it. Insufficient back pressure in the exhuast can throw this sensor off also.

    You seem like a smart guy. After each test repair reset PCM and test drive. Keep track of what you have eliminated as the cause such as the EGR. This may take some time to figure out. I do this for a living and this t-code can be a [non-permissible content removed] sometimes. One way of testing the EVR is to temporarely install a vaccum guage inline with a vaccum tee to your EGR and put the guage so you can see it. Drive and look for vaccum being applied and changing by the system while your driving around..

    Get back to me if you want me detail how to test the DPFE. I have the right equipment, but it can be tested other ways, its just hard that way. Good luck.
  • t129t129 Posts: 1
    A few days ago my engine light came on and the engine started missing. Today the engine started missing worse and the light started flashing. After I stopped the engine and restarted it the light was off and it didnt miss anymore. Any ideas what's going on?
  • nairbnairb Posts: 10
    Have an 1987 F250 4x4, 302V8,4sp. trans., reg. cab. The thing runs fine for the
    first 1/2hr. or hr. of the day, then it starts running really rough in the low RPM's.
    I have to about floor it to take off in 1st gear when I used to take off in 2nd gear.
    The RPM's also fluctuate when idilng and sometimes it will just die driving down
    the road at which this point I switch to the other tank and that keeps me going
    but still runs the same. Checked the timing the plugs, and looked for any bad
    vaccuum lines but can't seem to make things any better. Would appreciate any
    advice from anyone. Thanks.
  • notlobnotlob Posts: 10
    sounds like you could be having some vapor lock problems.
  • mike9408mike9408 Posts: 74
    If this happened suddenly........check to see if you picked up a bad load of fuel. Does it appear to be using to much fuel (black smoke at tail pipe) Check the Air Filter, replace if necessary. CHECK/REPLACE THE FRAME FUEL FILTER, this is more than likely the problem. If this does not fix it, check the vacuum line to the fuel back pressure regulator and the pressure regulator.
  • nairbnairb Posts: 10
    What do you do about vapor lock?
  • nairbnairb Posts: 10
    It's been doing this for about a month and a half so it's not the fuel. Checked the
    air filter and its fine. And according to my Haynes manual, F250's w/EFI have non-
    servicable or replacable fuel filters. Thats what I was thinking the problem could be
    because I do run both my tanks down to fumes quite often.
  • My truck has 142,000 miles on it and recently the truck died for no reason. It happened again about a month later. I replaced the fuel filter and didn't solve the problem. The pump turns on and speeds up as rpms increase. Sometimes it won't stay running, other times it runs like there is no problem. I am so hesitant to take it to the dealership who has misled me in the past. (catastrophic electrical failure) Plus i am hoping to do the repair myself. By the way no error codes
  • nairbnairb Posts: 10
    Went to check my antifreeze in my truck to see what it was good to (protection
    below zero), and when I pulled the gauge out of the radiator neck, it had yellowish
    oil-like residue all over it. I know when you blow a head gasket, the oil on the dip-
    stick might have H2o/antifreeze on it. Is this possibly the same problem? Any
    help is greatly appreciated.Thanks.
  • Was coming home and engine started to lose power. Had to floor board it the few miles home. Since then, it won't start.

    have replaced the coil, ignition module, plugs, fuel filter, computer and distributor. It is getting spark, and gas. (Clynder 3 & 4 were very wet. others appeared normal) Plug wires are have less than 5,000 miles on them.

    Fuel pressure is 40 psi + or -.

    Adding starter fluid does not help. it doesn't hit a lick.

    I have noticed that it attemps to start when first trying to start after sitting for awhile..

    Again, gas is good, spark is good. Any help in this m atter would be greatly appreciated.

  • It sounds to me like your Catalytic Converter might be plugged (if equipped). My Chilton Manual doesn't cover it but that would be my bet if you have done all that you say. Don't know why #'s 3&4 plugs are notibly wet unless those injectors are failing or the back pressure regulator is failing some how. But raw fuel going into the catalytic converter is a major cause of converter failure. There are test procedures outlined in Haynes repair manuals covering your truck. The manuals are only around $20.00, most of the time can help at least a little help although sometimes are a bit hard to follow or might have a little incorrect information, using good judgement in this case is necessary. Good luck, and please post your results. Thank you, Mike
  • I did as the muffler shop instructed, assuming it was a plugged converter. Same thing. 40 + or - psi on fuel pressure gauge. Nice blue spark. Shot a spray of starting fluid in it and still nothing. I felt sure it was a plugged converter but apparently it wasn't. the only thing i haven't checked is compression but engine turns like it has compression. (Doesn't spind over wildly) Even if it wasn't getting gas, it should have hit on the starting fluid. I have started engines on WD-40 or at least assisted the starting.

    Normally, it will try to hit after sitting for awhile but this morning, it didn't even try to hit this morning.

    1986 efi Ford F-150 with about 140K miles.

    Help Please,

    ernie in Virginia Beach
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