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Ford F-Series Gasoline Engine Problems

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Comments

  • thinks for the advice. will try that tomarrow.
  • mike9408mike9408 Posts: 74
    Check the Fuel switching valve. Sounds like it is worn out. I believe it is located in main frame rail drivers side just behind the cab (or there about)
    Mike
  • mike9408mike9408 Posts: 74
    Check the Fuel switching valve. Sounds like it is worn out. I believe it is located in main frame rail drivers side just behind the cab (or there about)
    Mike
  • thinks for the advice. checked the comp, and it had none. puld valve cover off and had four push rods out of the rocker arms. put back in place, tightend. and now it runs. thinks again.
  • mike9408mike9408 Posts: 74
    Glat to hear it Frank, Good for you. Glad I could help.
    Mike
  • nairbnairb Posts: 10
    #6 CYLINDER NOT FIRING ON 1987 F-250...WHY?? wondering where to start on checking why the #6 cylinder isn't firing in my truck.
    Can't take this rough running, gas chugging, no power stuff anymore. Any advice
    would be appreciated.
  • joshlin1932joshlin1932 Posts: 14
    My 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis is unstable on the road. I have new tires and have had my frontend aligned and neither one helped the problem. My steering wheel has about 4 to 5 inches of slack in it. Can you suggest a solution for me.
  • The fuel pump on a Ford F-150 sends fuel to the engine. However, the fuel pump will eventually wear out. Premature failure is often caused by the gas tank in the F-150 not being more than 1/2 full or running the engine on a mostly empty tank. If the fuel pickup is not fully submerged in gasoline, it can be especially hard on the fuel pump, causing it to burn out as it draws in air and gasoline, struggling to do its job. Before having the fuel pump replaced, troubleshoot the problem.
  • Need help trying to identify noise that sounds like a lifter or cracked flywheel. Check and found both ok. Ask ford mechanic with no luck. Would like to know if anyone has had the same problem with their 05 F-150 with 4-6 V- 8
  • Is the noise like a knock, or tapping? Where is it coming from? If your not sure of where it's at then I have found from my brother/mechanic that a stethoscope ( you can probolly get at a auto parts store or catolog) works for finding noises. For example, my girlfriend's 01 f150, 5.4 v8 was making a noise on the valvecover, and I thought the cam was making noise, but my brother put the stethoscope on a few places, finding the PCV valve was bad and making the load noise. Hope that helps.
  • i live @ altitude of 7000 ft. my truck was "tuned up" @ 100,000 mi. when i am at sea level, it runs fine but up here, it stops running as i slow down/brake and turn right.[it is always a right turn and never happens when accelerating].

    i have been back to the mechanic who tuned it and also to another one; both say it checks out fine on the analyzer and to wait for a "hard failure'.

    by the way, after it dies,i put it in neutral/park and it starts right up. any ideas?

    larry
  • I have the same problem with my 1998 f 150 and have not had any luck finding the problem. Have taken it to two different shops and my local Ford dealer did not find the problem either. I unhooked the battery cables as you suggested and took it for a drive. Tried this 3 different times and still have the same problem at WOT. One thing I have recently noticed is rough idle when engine is cold.
  • mike4578mike4578 Posts: 8
    edited September 2010
    My 2002 F150 (150K) started making a tapping sound. The noise gets louder on accel and decel. Does not sound like a valve. Slight tap on idle. I thought it may have been comming from the top end so we replaced PCV, coils, and plugs. No luck. There is no smoke, no loss of power, no loss of oil pressure, no check engine code, or excessive oil or gas use. On further investigation I decided the tap or knock sounds like it may be comming from the bottom end. Truck runs great except for the noise from under the hood. Could this be a sensor? Bearing on a rod? Please help!!
  • We replaced the ignition coils and this fixed the problem of hesitation at WOT. Threw a lot of money attempting to diagnose the problem at 3 different shops.
  • My gf's truck is a 01 with the 5.4 and it had a fast tapping noise it almost got to a buzz, but not that close. My brother, a mechanic, has a stethoscope which we held on the valve cover where the PCV valve was and thought it was the cam, but we move the stethoscope on the PCV valve and it was so loud it the stethoscope. So i pulled the vaccum hose off a it quit, so i replaced it and that was it. I suggest getting a mechanics stethoscope and hold it where the noise is the loudest. Hope that helps.
  • have their been engine problems, mine has a nois e that sounds like lifters to me. i changed oil since I just bought the vehicle. It has 140000 on it. runs great but at slow idle has what sounds like a lifter noise. Oil was really dirty so I thought maybe fresh oil may stop the sound.???????? anybody got any ideas
  • Does the noise get louder when you rev it up?
  • Disconnect one end and drill a small hole (1/4-1/2 inch) through the middle of the honeycomb inside. The truck will breath better and, due to the small hole, your emissions will be fine as well. You will still have back pressure to preserve your piston rings. Sure cheaper than an $800 new one. Play dumb if caught.

    Note...wear a good dust mask. Those insides are toxic. Cadmium and all sorts of nastiness.
  • I Have a f350 6,8 V10. the problem i seem to have is when it starts getting cold at this time of year the motor will not start at any temperature 8c & below so when it gets to "0" ive got NO chance. Ive changed the ECT sensor cleaned the MAF sensor & the air filter but all to no avail it still won,t start. When i finally get it started and it gets warmed up it dosen,t miss a beat. Can anyone help....
  • gabby16gabby16 Posts: 1
    Have a 90 ford f-150 with 5.0 after it starts to warm up it jerks and jumps under load.the owner put alot of new parts on the truck plugs,wires,cap,rotor,etc. had a leak in EGR tube and it was running ruff so we replaced it. It seems to run better and also quieter but still the same problem.I know they had problems with the dist. any thoughts?
  • mike4578mike4578 Posts: 8
    edited July 2011
    Check your secondary ignition. Bout $20 at any autoparts store. It is either on the side of the dist or its on the firewall. It is a rectangular box with a flat pin connector on it. If its on the dist you will have to pull the dist to get it out, be sure to mark the timing before you start. I would also check the ignition coil.
  • My truck is in Ford shop to replace plugs. Get call from shop number 4 & 8 plugs broke. Shop says unable to extract plugs without pulling engine cost 1400 dollars. Any ideas on a simple and cheap solution.
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Posts: 161
    Bull....Im an ASE technician. This is a common issue with this because Ford made the thread length of the plugs too short and carbon builds up and locks them in there.

    You have a choice to spend lots of money or try some tricks of the trade.

    Use a MAP gas torch and heat up the spark plug and aluminum area where it screws in. After its hot try and tighten it a little and then loosen it. Keep repeating this working the plug back and forth until you can get them out. These rear plugs are hard to drill out because they are in the back but it can be done at a last resort. Use a vaccum cleaner and ducktape a hose that will fit down the hole to remove any pieces and a tiny magnet tool ect. Poor oil in the cyclinder and crank the engine over with the starter repeatedly to allow any crap that fell into the cylinder to escape through the open hole or exhuast valve. Repair any damaged threads with thread repair inserts. Im a mobile mechanic and this is a common repair that I get. I would save a customer like you at least a thousand dollars on this repair. Good luck.
  • My spouse is changing his f250's spark plugs and has broken off one of the old plugs ceramic ends. I had gotten on this forum when he was having problems with loss of power and told him the recommendation to change the plugs, also letting him know about the problems with the carbon build up. I believe he bought motorcraft plugs. Does he need to tear down the head to remove the broken pieces? Or can he buy the tool that is talked about on one of these posts? That is without spending more $$ than taking it to a shop to solve the problem now.
  • i have a 88 f 150 and it is leaking oil out of the drivers side valve cover and when i go from 4th to 3rd gear at 35 to 45 i blow smoke out of the exhaust pipes i have used additive oil and tried taking the valve cover off but cant i am out of options bc i dont have the money to take it to a shop if you could help it would be appreciated i have no idea what the problem is.
  • You could have a pully that wobbles while in motion or at high speeds, the guides if wobbling will indeed shred the new belts.
  • 02flhtc02flhtc Posts: 3
    edited March 2012
    done the head gaskets on my 97 4.6 and just wondering about alignment of timing marks
  • 300mguy1300mguy1 Posts: 6
    Just read on another forum (f150online.com) that Ford has a TSB on replacing / repairing the broken plugs. It is very detailed and gives full Ford instructions...and does not require pulling the heads. good luck.
  • notlobnotlob Posts: 10
    I was told by a Ford dealership to bring my 150 in a day before so they could apply solvent to the plugs and let them set over night for removal the next day. They still broke five of the eight plugs durning removal but were able to still remove all the busted parts without removing the heads. I guess I was lucky from some of the stories I had heard. When they designed the heads on the 5.4 three valve they messed up big time, but I still like the power that this engine delivers.
    Lucky in Ga.
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