Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Taurus/Sable Heating / Cooling Problems

13»

Comments

  • Heater core doesnt leak but heat is weak. I bought a heater core which looks so substantial I cant believe the old one is clogged.
    Any suggestions before I start tearing apart the dash. thanks
  • Just bought a 1993 Taurus GL. The cooling fan will only come on at high when the temp gauge reads between M-A on the NORMAL range, but does work with the AC. In reading a Haynes manual, it describes a 3 step fan speed, low speed at temperature X, medium speed at temperature Y and high speed at temperature Z. No CEL. Is it possible that the fan controller mounted on the radiator is defective? I replaced the CTS which was defective and the fan wasn’t coming on at all.

    TIA,

    Steve
  • i have a 2002 ford taurus the clutch siezed on my taurus for the air can i remove the pump and put a non air belt on or do i need a bi-pass pully for the car its a 3L
  • autskiautski Posts: 1
    :confuse: Our 01 taurus has several odd things going on right now... see if anyone can take a stab at this. When sitting and idling it seems to load up and sputter a bit, when we had the auto store plug in there computer to the dash it said it was too rich with gas. this bean after we had the overflow talk replaced as it had a crack in it, and the thermostate and the water pump and the timing chain(i think is what they called it-some type of chain). Ever since the car eats antifreeze, but sometimes after a long drive when you let it cool a bit the overflow tank will be dry, but once you open the cap and air begins to seep in coolant will flow back from the radiator into the overflow. We also have the no warmer thatn luke warm air flowing in through vents...unless you rev the engine... even after warmed up. If you occasionally rev the engine quite a bit it will spit out hot air like normal for a while. There is no big spots from fluid leaks under the car after parking....help? LOST
  • I purchased this car in Dec this year with only 31k on it. I didn't check the air when we got home we realized we couldn't get the air to work. We did a search through Yahoo and came up with a sheet to test the climate control to see what the problem was. Instead of giving us a code it just reset the system. Then we checked and the air worked perfectly until you turn the car off. Then you are back to square one where you have to reset the system again to get the A/C to come on. This wouldn't bother me except that the climate control is set to 90 degrees is seems. You just get the hottest heat which you can not adjust. Of course unless I reset it. But do I want to do that everyday? Has anyone had this problem?
  • rvleervlee Posts: 1
    I've been told my heater core is bad and that to replace it means removal of the dash board. If that is true, is there any short cuts like cutting into the ducting?
  • I have a Ford Taurus 1996 wagon, My water gauge rises almost to 3/4 the way up especially up hill and on hot days, mechanic flushed out the radiator but said it will probably need replacing eventually. Which will be a drag and expensive as its undaneath.I use my A/C to lower the gauge and it works but if the hill is really steep and goes for about 15mins, once at the top I started to notice smoke coming from the bonnet once engine was turned off. I let it cool for about half an hour, checked the water, it was fine, no other obvious things noted. drove again everything was fine. Could it be I need to replace the radiator? Someone suggested could be the pistons? Please help.....
  • My ford taurus 96 has a knocking clicking sound on the left side sumwhere by the front tyre. Its noticible when steering round corners and at times breaking...plz help
  • texascartexascar Posts: 1
    I have this EXACT same problem, but can not figure out what to do about it - I am hesitant to take it to a mechanic before doing a little research since I just moved to Texas, where there is no such thing as consumer protection, and any mechanic can take you to the cleaners just for pulling into their parking lot. (And for those who say this means they won't stay in business, you should see how often these "businesses" drown customers is so much garbage and fear - you might KILL someone if you don't get those brakes fixed! - and then change hands, claiming "new ownership" to sucker people into giving them another try).

    Does anyone know about this problem? How do you get the A/C to reset? That could at least be helpful, since we are now going to be facing very high temperatures here in the near future!
  • maggienmmaggienm Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Taurus with about 120,000 miles on it. Analysis showed the torque converter bad and it shifts very hard when it gets warm. I have been told I'm lucky the transmission hasn't gone out by now. My heating/cooling system started with a small leak and I now come to where I constantly have to keep it checked and filled. It is under the motor towards the front and slightly to the driver's side. I have had it looked at 3 times. My regular mechanic said he couldn't see from where it was coming. Another thought it was the heater core but that is not where it is leaking and there is no water inside the car at all. I just paid someone else to tell me he thinks the freeze plug between the transmission and motor is bad and the water is coming out over the oil pan to where it drips but couldn't say for sure and,of course, that would be expensive. Can anyone add any info that might shed light on my problem and would this be anything covered under the recall? Also is there any consideration on the transmission repair by Ford? I believe I am the third owner of this car.
  • tmm2tmm2 Posts: 1
    Where is the radiator (and engine if any) coolant drain valve on a 2006 Taurus with 24 valve engine? How do you get to it?
  • I had a 1994 Sable with 200K+ miles and ran into almost every common problem with that generation car. One common problem with the car was water pump failure. Under high load (driving up a hill or hard acceleration) it would overheat. Although I did replace the radiator at one point, it was because they have a tendency to leak where the plastic side reservoirs meet the aluminum cooling fins. I wouldn't replace the radiator unless it leaked. Look closely at the water pump and look for leaking fluid or play in the bearings.

    FYI - that generation car had very poor cooling systems and transmissions, but if taken care of aren't too big a problem (a new water pump only cost me 30$ since I could replace it myself).
  • Passenger side of the car, underneath and to the passenger side of the radiator you'll see a 3/4" or so hose connected to the radiator. When the engine is COLD pull the hose off the connector and be ready for it to empty quickly - it takes only about 30sec compared to 3-4 minutes in the old style twist-cock thing.
  • That happens when the coolant is not in contact with the temp sensor (i.e. there is NO coolant in the engine). You obviously have a lark leak in the system and need to tow it to a shop where they will find the leak and replace the part. Shouldn't bee too expensive (no more than 250$ if a shop does the work, less than 100$ if you can do it yourself).
  • had similar problem with my 01 Sable. there was a "link" on the front suspension thar was wore out. The factory one some kind of hard plastic. the MOOG aftermarket one was steel. Anyway, I replaced it and the noise was gone.
  • My 02 Mercury Sable is blowing cool air when on heat. There does not appear to be a leak anywhere and the thermostat stays in the mid range. I do not have climate control. When I turn the temperature knob from hot to cold you hear a clicking sound in the dash - but when I go from cold to hot - no noise. Anyone have any idea what this could be?
  • I Have an 01 Sable and no heat. Changed thermostat. Any help?
  • Hi all,
    just had a thermostat changed on my 01 Sable. Was running fine before, just no heat. Thermostat was definitely bad. However, as soon as that was done, the car ran terrible! The engine light also came on. The mechanic swears he did nothing else and now doesn't know what to do. Is this maybe a coolant sensor problem...could that have been damaged during thermostat installation? Maybe incorrectly installed thermostat? There looks to be some kind of sensor right above the thermostat and I wonder what that is and if that could have been damaged, causing the running problem.
  • My mechanic, who is good, and usually diagnoses and fixes everything, is stumped by the heater problem on my 2000 Sable. Just get cold air. At first he flushed the cooling system and replaced the thermostat. Didn't work. He then checked the heater blend door, replaced the water pump and flushed the heater core. Didn't work. For a little improvement, he disconnected the A/C relays, and we now get a slight amount of heat, maybe close to room temp rather than cold. Other symptoms which may or may not be related: Heat gauge stays on cold, and after a long drive might go up ever so slightly. I once smelled antifreeze, and found I had to add a small amount. Since then have smelled it occasionally, but levels not down. Haven't noticed leaks, but haven't looked carefully. Any ideas on how I can get my heater working right.
  • got a 2000 mercury sable. i replaced the thermostat. flushed the heater core. and checked the blend door actuator (which works fine!) still not getting heat. when the car gets to temp while i am driving i will get a decent amount of heat if i turn the blower motor on. but the heat will fade in about ten seconds to cold. If i turn the blower off for about two min than turn it back on i will get the small burst of heat again. but it sure enough fades away. any ideas as to what this could be
  • there is a part called a blend door acctuator! if you turn you heat from cool to heat while looking on the passenger side floor board directly under the radio you should see a sping assembly moving! if not than that part is bad!
  • I have the same problem what did you find ot
  • Check engine light won't go out ..
  • Hi. Have you found the drain plug on your car yet? I was told I would have to tare the hole front of my car to get to it :cry:. So I just removed the bottom hose from the water pump. I hope this helps?
  • While replacing my heater core I noticed that the blend door does not close fully. With the core out I can see that the blend door moves freely, but seems to bump into something when it is about 75% closed. I felt around in there Reaching through where the heater core goes in, but I cannot feel anything that is blocking its path. Even when it is at that point it still seems like it is not touching anything inside and is not contacting anything inside. But something seems to be blocking its path. I attached the motor that moves it, and it strains to try to move it beyond that point. Is that the normal end point? Or do I need to do something to allow it to move past that point? I am concerned that the way it is I will never get fully cold air when I need it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • This is a common problem with the Taurus/Sable. The heater core in these cars are a resevoir type. This means that instead of having a tube that water flows from the inlet to the outlet through, it's more like a radiator and has an open cavity that fills up. Sediment builds up in the heater core plugging it from the bottom and eventually all that is left is a gap at the top just big enough for water to flow through to come out of the outlet. This means the hot water is not warming up the the entire heater core, just the very very top. I sudgest replacing the heater core. If you can do it youself it should only take a couple hours and cost about $60-$80 or so. But if you have to take it to a shop, it will run you about $600-$800. It's not an incredibly hard job, but the dashboard does need to be taken out to get to the heater core (hence the high cost for a shop to do it.) Hope this helps answer your question.
  • sunray7sunray7 Posts: 2
    edited February 2012
    Actually, after two years with no heat, without my mechanic able to fix it, I bit the bullet and brought it to a Ford dealer. Guess what he discovered. My mechanic had replaced the thermostat and put it in backwards. So, since he had already replaced the thermostat he had looked for other problems and didn't re-check the thermostat. I should give him the bill the Ford dealer charged me. For replacing the thermostat and flushing the antifreeze labor only $185.. My mechanic for the exact same thing charge labor of just $40.00 (but of course he put it in backwards). Anyway, we have heat - does sort of take forever to heat up, like it used to (I'm used to my Buick which heats up right away). So there possibly could be a core problem. But we can live with it the way it is now.
  • bubbly1987bubbly1987 Posts: 1
    edited July 2012
    I have a 1996 mercury sable ls dohc, the heater core, water pump, and a millions of other things have been replace on this car. Recently my car is not holding coolant what so ever. Idk what to do. Any suggestions on what it could be? Since I have had almost everything replace im lost on words what to do. But the car is running fine just loosing coolant/water.
  • Recently had the AC compressor making noise, put the AC on, but noise still there, now it looks like the compressor clutch is loose inside. I'll probably replace it in the future, but for now I am not getting any heat. It there something linking the AC to the heater, maybe electrical stuck in some kind of loop. Any suggestions?
13»
Sign In or Register to comment.