Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





DODGE DAKOTA QUAD CAB

1404143454662

Comments

  • LOOKING FOR AFTERMARKET ACCESSORIES AND POTENTIAL PROBLEMS...THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT BROUGHT ME TO THIS FORUM!!! I WISH WE HAD AS MUCH INPUT LIKE IN THE BEGINNING. I'M STILL WONDERING ABOUT THOSE BOSCH PLATINUM 4 PLUGS? I ASKED AWHILE BACK, BUT NEVER RECEIVED THE ANSWERS I WAS LOOKING FOR? I HAD THE DEALER DO THE FIRST TUNEUP, COMPUTER FLASHING, FRONT END ALIGNMENT AND AUTO TRANS SERVICE. I AM TOTALLY IMPRESSED WITH THIS VEHICLE!! I STILL THINK IT LOOKS BETTER IN THE SIDE VIEW THEN THE NEW RAM(IMHO)!!!!!AND I LIKE THE NEW RAM!!!
    THINGS THAT I HAVE DONE TO MY QC:ZIEBART UNDERCOATING, LINE-X BEDLINER, MOBIL 1 IN THE ENGINE, BOTH FRONT AND REAR DIFFERENTIALS AND THE TRANSFER CASE. I HAVE BEEN USING MOBIL1 SINCE 77...LOVE THE STUFF.
    ALSO THANKS FOR YOUR SUPPORT FOR 1258.
    CHRIS
  • MY BROTHER HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM WITH HIS RAM! WIRE HARNESS WAS CHAFFED THRU AT A TIEDOWN IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. THEY ARE HARD TO FIND ESPECIALLY IF THEY ARE INTERMITTENT! I'M SURE IT WILL GET WORSE BEFORE IT GETS BETTER. SORRY, ELECTRICAL CAN BE A REAL B....!
  • mike_vmike_v Posts: 2
    Hi guys!

    Great forum you have here! I'm beginning my shopping for a Dakota quad cab, and I'm looking for opinions/advice about the engine combos. I'm leaning toward a 2wd 'cause I just don't see the need for 4wd here in suburban Maryland. Quick acceleration is important for me, so I need to decide which V8. The new(er) 4.7 is surely adequate, but what about the extra torque the bigger 5.9 can deliver? I'd like an automatic and I'm thinking the 3.92 rear will be more zippy than the 3.55. LSD is a must-have.

    I'll look forward hearing from y'all!

    BTW, I read someone's post mentioning a '5 star' dealership, where do you find the ratings for the dealers?

    Thanks a lot!

    Mike
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Mike, the 4.7 has great power and is much thriftier than the 5.9. However, if you plan to tow at maximum load levels the 5.9 certainly is a grunt. I would heartily recommend the limited slip axle (same goes for 4WD). The 3.92 does offer quicker off the line acceleration, but at a cost of additional fuel. And Mike, I have spent a great deal of time in Southern, Northern, Western and Central MD (including the Eastern Shore) and have been caught in snowstorms in all of the above. The Daimler/Chrysler web site lists 5 star dealerships. Good luck.

    Bookitty
  • steve234steve234 Posts: 460
    I agree with Bookitty about engine choices. One little note, the 4.7 is slightly quicker than the 5.9 and has a much better automatic available. I prefer 4x2, but that is a personal life choice. I spent many years behind the wheel of a jeep and firmly believe that if I cannot go there in 4x2, I'd rather be driving my recliner.
  • bozco12bozco12 Posts: 10
    have had my qc for 2 months now.. qc 4.7 auto 4x2
    no complaints. 4.7 acceleration has been great. My commute is on worst freeway in houston so mpg has been disappointing 13-14mpg.
    Getting ready for first oil change. Can anyone give me insight to any paticular products ex: filters, oil ect....what is big advantage with using synthetic ?
  • mopar67mopar67 Posts: 728
    Synthetic oil (or Uhl, as its pronounced in S. Indiana) has better shear properties, does not break down under high temps like dino oil, and has better pumping characteristics (ie, pumps better at lower temps)
    Personally, I use purolator filters. I would stay away from Fram at all costs.
    Your mileage will improve. 2 months you have had the truck; its just broken in! Give it time.
  • tuvtesttuvtest Posts: 237
    I agree with Bookitty about upgrading to the 5.9 if towing is in the plan. Otherwise, in stock form, the 4.7 is quicker than the 5.9, plus gets about 40% or better milage. The short stroke of the 4.7 lets it wind up into it's powerband quite quickly plus it has the advantage of lighter weight. In numerous articles the two engines have been pitted together, and the 4.7 usally comes out on top, in fact there was one that had a Quad 4.7 against a club R/T 5.9 and the 4.7 won. Now, if you plan on modifying your engine, that's another story. There are tons of parts out there for the 5.9 as it has been around in one form or another since...forever. The aftermarket has been a little sow in developing parts for the 4.7, partially because from the factory it is a pretty good package, but there are a few coming. Hope this helps and good luck in your shopping.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    you have to do more to the 5.9 to get it to respond to the performance upgrades. The normal exhaust, air filter, chip (or reprogrammer) don't get you much as compared to other engines. I beleive it was Sport Truck awhile back that did a piece on this. They also did a test (maybe Sport Truck of the Year, don't remember) that included a 4.7 QC, a 5.9 R/T as well as a Silverado and Sierra 4.8 and 5.3. The GM's were Reg. cab SWB. I was quite surprised that the the 4.7 QC was even a tick quicker than the GM 5.3.
  • gator72gator72 Posts: 115
    I love my '01 QC SLT-Plus 4.7. But, there is a minor design flaw. Dodge designed a huge opening in the lower part of the front bumper; exposing the A/C condensor. Evidently, it allows in more cool air. But, this leaves the A/C condensor vulnerable to every stone, rock and debris that bounces up off the roadbed or freeway.

    A few months ago, I posted a question here looking for grille inserts for the lower part of the front bumper. No one ever responded. So, I started surfing the web.

    After searching thru several websites for a lower grille insert to protect my A/C condensor, I believe I finally found the right one. I ordered it today; should be here in @ 5 days. I'll keep everyone posted.

    I found it @ grillcraft.com. Their price is $129.00. But, they are the manufacturer. They directed me to their distributor (MB Motorsports) in San Diego who sold it to me for $109.95 + $9.00 shipping. Saved a few bucks. Plus, they are very helpful and friendly.

    The grille comes in silver or black. I got black b/c my upper grille is also black.

    FYI: Grillcraft has detailed instructions on their website on how to install the grille. Looks simple enough. I like the Grillcraft b/c it seems to cover more area. The other makers' grilles leave small gaps on both sides of their grille; (ie. stones can deflect thru). Plus, most of the other makers' grilles snap on and/or are held in place by a sophisticated rubber band!

    The Grillcraft has diamond-shaped holes instead of the horizontal bars. I prefer the horizontal bars; but, this setup will probably deflect more stones and/or debris.

    I'll check back with a progress report.
  • mike_vmike_v Posts: 2
    Thanks very much to each of you that chimed in with advice. I really appreciate your insight and helpfulness, it'll make me much more comfortable with my decisions. I'm looking forward now to the challenge of dealing with the salesforce....

    Cheers!

    Mike
  • brucec35brucec35 Posts: 246
    I would say that unless you plan to do a LOT of HEAVY towing, the 4.7L is the better choice of engine. The 5.9L I had in my Ram was fairly crude and noisy. While rated at high torque and hp levels, your "useable" amount of torque and hp seem less, since it really makes a racket when maxing out. I would assume the new engine is smoother, based on reports I've read. And the hp difference isn't that much. I have a Tundra now and its "smaller" engine seems to do a better job of towing my landscape trailer around than the Ram did. At least in day to day driving. I prefer smooth power delivery to max numbers. My 2001 Chevy Tahoe was the same. The 5.3L was stronger on paper, but didn't feel it compared to the Tundra. The 5.9L is a rock-solid reliable engine, but it's an old design. Very old.

    I would also choose the 4.7L engine just for the new improved 5 speed auto transmission. The older transmission isn't a great one, either in function or reliability. I hear the new one is smoother shifting.
  • brucec35brucec35 Posts: 246
    Having owned both, I think I can weigh in with at least some valid comments.

    My '97 Ram was in the shop for the following in the nearly 3 years I leased it:

    1. 24K - had to rebuild overdrive gear
    2. 30K - had to fix leaky tranny pan
    3. 24K - CD player died
    4. 30K - Cd player died again
    5. 30K - brake problems that Dodge dealers(3 of them) could not seem to diagnose or reproduce. Vehicle would sometimes (3 times at least) fail to stop quickly, pedal would go to floor, and truck would coast through intersections! Got rid of it right after that, after having Dodge inspect it for 3rd time and say it was fine.

    Not perfect, but it never did leave me stranded. My biggest gripe would be mediocre dealer service, not the truck itself. One dealer put the brake pads on backwards, resulting in near total front brake failure! It had to be towed back.

    2000 Toyota Tundra:. In 29,000 miles, the following problems have come up:

    1. seatbelt retractor weak, replaced under warranty. A month later, it's weak again. Not worth another trip to fix.
    2. 28K Oxygen sensor problem caused check engine light to come on. Part is on long-term back-order. Will require another visit to put it in when it arrives. Must be a common problem.
    3. 24K brake light comes on. Fluid level slightly low(only maybe a mm or two below the line!), but rotors are also warped. Rotors turned and pads replaced at my cost. Rear drums also warped, but fixed under warranty and resurfaced at no charge.
    4. Unlike my previous Toyotas with excellent paint, Tundra chips extremely easily.

    Overall, a solid truck, but again, not perfect. I think the Toyota comes into its own only AFTER about 50,000 miles, when the Dodge products seem to have more serious problems with transmissions/brakes. But either is acceptable overall in my experience. The Dodge Ram safety problems were not acceptable, however.

    If you've ever owned a German luxury brand, you'd consider fewer than 6 trips to the shop a year a great experience! And let's not talk about the $1,000 tire changes every year or so. Give me a simple truck any day. Anyone interested in a nice '98 BMW 540i 6 speed?
  • Hey Brucec35 Thanks for the excellent post! As a shopper for a new truck it's really tough getting honest straight forward posts on some of the problems people have had with different trucks. Right now i'm choosing between the Dakota, GMC and Ford. All regular cabs, all with the 5 speed manual, all with the V-8 option (4.7, 4.8 and 4.6). All seem to have they're own brand of problems. My greatest worry is just how frequent and what percentage of trucks have them.Thanks again for a good post.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    From what I've read and been told by transmission guys, the problem with '94 to '97 RAMs was the overdrive gear failing due to a combination of insufficient fluid circulation and intermittent or clogged drainback valves. A combination of snow plowing, towing heavy loads, and inadequate transmission maintenance made the problem worse. Common treatment around here, I guess, is to completely remove the drainback valve. Earlier versions can be modified to resolve the insufficient fluid problem by a reputable rebuilder. The newer 45RFE auto (4.7 engine) appears to be completely reliable.

    When I did vehicle repair anytime we got a complaint about the brake pedal going to the floor intermittently, we replaced the master cylinder. We never had a customer come back for the same complaint, either. Master cylinders can be intermittent, especially in cold weather.

    We like our Toyota Avalon, but when we're over to the dealership I always notice a lot of Tundra's in for service then anything else. Lot's of brake and drive line problems according to our tech. The O2 sensors don't live too long, either. Watch out for severe engine sludging problems after 50,000. We're having that problem with ours.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • ford_biiford_bii Posts: 120
    Hey, if you're a 5-speed guy, check out the Ford F-250 super duty. You can get the 5.4L engine with a 5-speed. LOTS OF POWER. My dad bought a Super Duty with the 5.4 and a stick and man, in the regular cab configuraton (I think you can get that combo in reg cab, his is super cab) it would come close to kicking my Dakota. If you're going to use your truck for a lot of hauling and towing, it's the ticket. With Dodge you only got an auto for the big engine. Funny thing is though, you can't get a 5-speed in an F-150 with the 5.4L.

    The Super Duty may be cheaper than you think, too.
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Posts: 159
    I glad someone pointed this out to me. Why is it
    that Dodge is the only manufacture that hasn't
    fixed this safety issue? You can put the truck
    in gear (auto) without pressing the brake pedal!!
    I think this was a serious safety issue that has
    been addressed by others. Of course I won't leave
    my truck running with the pet dog or a child in
    my truck, but there's is always someone that will
    and has done that!! Try it, from Park to R or D
    and don't press the brake!!! Be careful!!!
    If you didn't know this, you do now.
    I own a 2001 Dakota Quad. I love my truck!
    mick
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    I drove for a lot of years without that feature and didn't have any problem. That's one of the things you're taught when you learn to drive.
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Posts: 159
    I didn't say it was a problem, I just ask a question? and "they" also tell you not to spill
    hot coffee in you lap at a drive thru,,,,,,,,
    Just something to think about,,,,,,,,,,
    mick
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    it could be a problem if you've grown used to that feature then drive a dodge. I see it as one more way someone is unecessarily (imo) trying to protect me from myself.
  • ahasherahasher Posts: 236
    IMHO mtrialsm, I agree the ability to protect passengers (young or not) cannot be understated. I too have driven vehicles with a feature to prevent shifting until a pedal is pressed. Altho I have more time in vehicles with a manual tranny clutch/starter lock.. and have let a nine year old listen to the radio while i ran an errand...
    Goes with my constant observations to the wife of adults letting kids wander all over the vehicle as they drive.. I saw just yesterday a kid STANDING in the front seat drinking a Mc****ds soda. That parent should have been arrested for child endangerment!!!
    Well just my .02 worth..

    Oh yeah. another safety comment... my rear 2000 QC doors can ONLY be opened after MANUALLY unlocking.. Where the front has the standard handle pull unlocks setup. Great safety for the rear if u have the need.. but I now have older kids or adults but I CANNOT disable this feature.. an annoying thing now but I live with it. better safe that sorry I guess...
  • I did check out the Ford and GMC 3/4 ton trucks. Similarly equipped to the 1/2 tons they ran $4,000 - $5,000 higher. I do carry several hundred pounds of tools every day, but not enough to really need a 3/4. Thanks for your opinion though, it was sure worth the look.
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    mtrialsm - for better or worse, the 2002 Dakota's have a brake/shift interlock.
  • I haven't been on for a while, so here's some info for all of the people complaining and calling Dodge "JUNK". I have a '98 Dakota club cab SLT 5.2, 5spd 3.55 LSD loaded from factory, with a Gaylord tonneau, 3" dynamax cat back exh. K&N filter, 15X8 ARE wheels with 9.50-30x15 toyo tires. 76,000 + miles
    When I can keep my foot out of it I've gotten 19-20 MPG on the open road. My problem is if the traffic is open this truck cruise's at 70-80 real well and still gets 16-18 MPG depending on level or hills. Still running original brakes and clutch, live in San Diego Ca. and travel to Grand Junction Co. and Wa. state. So have been over some pretty good climb's.
    One thing that I wasn't happy with was rearend whine at 40,000 mi's, Dealer rebuilt with all new gears and bearing's. Started whining again at 70,000 Dealer rblt again and I found out the Mechanic that had done the work the first time had fired for poor workmanship 2 month's after first rbld. No problems since.

    I've had Toyota's (car's & trk's)& Nissan's ( 2trks) and had more problems with them then the Dodge veh's I've owned. So I'm a firm believer in LUCK!!!!!!! 2 Dodge trk's over 200,000 mi. 4 cars over 100,000 mi.

    Sorry for the long post!!!!
    Lee
  • kojak3kojak3 Posts: 25
    Anyone else have their insurance rates go up on the Quad? My policy just renewed and my rates went up because "the Quad is costly to repair for accidents" That sucks since I'm an accident free driver.
  • mopar67mopar67 Posts: 728
    I'll sent them to you pre paid freight!
  • kojack,
    Insurance companies are just like car dealers. They compete for business. Don't like your new rate? Get some quotes from some other's. If no reputable company can beat it, at least you have peace of mind.
  • I posted a question about a computer chip or reprogrammer for the 4.7. I have been searching the web and asking around some shops to no avail.
    Has anybody in this forum heard of anything coming out or allready on the market. In my searches I did find a jet plug in module but does not negate the 100 mph. limitation. Hey guys I enjoy reading the posts, it is very informative and I like to hear what other people are doing to the quad cab to make it even better.
  • "100 mph limitation". Do you have the tire handling group and have 2 wheel drive? I do and my MAX is about 112mph. I think that the tires are what limit your top speed (meaning for safety reasons Chrysler limits your top end via the computer so you don't exceed the tire speed rating). Maybe a dealer can identify a factory part that you can interchange that has the higher limit. We own 2 1999 Neon Coupes. One is a Plymouth Breeze with the larger 150HP engine and touring tires. It cuts out at about 106MPH. The other is a Dodge R/T. It will go at least 120MPH, I haven't hit a limiter yet. It has H rated tires and a firmer suspension. You might ask a Dodge mechanic if it is possible to remove the limit using the OBD2 computer, can't hurt to ask. If it is possible then maybe you could find someone willing to help. Rick
  • There seems to be no rhyme or reason to this limiter issue.
    I have a 2001 4.7 auto 2wd 3.55 lsd tire and handling Sport. It starts to spasm at 97 mph.
    I am happy with the trans so far operating ok right down to -35 F(yes thats 35 below 0 ) .Takes about 6 miles at 65 before it goes into full lockup at that temp.Yes it's a little chilly here this week.
This discussion has been closed.