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Chrysler Town & Country: 2004 and Earlier



  • I posted this last year and now have over 60,000 miles on my Caravan, 36,000 since front pads were changed, still over half thickness left on them:

    4th generation Caravans are very heavy vehicles, and tend to roll forever when you ease off the gas pedal (unless climbing a grade) I purchased my Caravan with 24,000 miles, and had to replace the front pads immediately, because they were worn to the metal. I now have close to 50,000 miles, and the replacement pads look almost the same as the day I installed them. I read many posts about early brake wear in Caravans, and I am willing to bet driving habits have a lot to do with it. I have seen many people who either have their foot on the gas or on the brake, not anticipating stops, and never rolling to a braked stop, but like I said from the gas pedal right to the brake pedal. With the weight and inertia of these vans, the brakes will not last if driven this way
  • I have a 2004 T&C LX with 53k miles. I just brought it into the dealership to have transmission and radiator fluids flushed. Then had them check the humming noise from the front end when steering right or left. I was called back today and was told that the PS cylinder had a leak and bled the PS fluid into the boot where it caused a bulge. I was then told I would have to replace the steering gear because it was a matter of when it would fail. So, I'm looking at a $900 repair bill. I asked if this should be covered by powertrain warranty and was told probably not. Does anybody know if this is correct? If not, how can I minimize my repair cost?
  • Probably not covered under 7/70,000 as steering components are not considered part of the powertrain. I would take it someplace else for a second opinion, not mentioning anything about what this dealer told you.
  • Thanks for the info.
  • My 99 T&C has almost 157K on it, still drives like a dream. About two weeks ago, the oil light came on. Checking the manual it seems this light is not for oil level, which was the first thing I checked. Does this light coming on, mean my oil pump is going bad? Or does it have something to do withthe sensor installed into the oil pan? If someone could put some light onthis for me, Big Thanks!
  • If it still runs like a dream, chances are the low oil pressure is not from worn engine internals. I would drop the oil pan and check if the oil pump pick-up screen is clogged. With 157k, it wouldn't hurt to try a heavier oil, 10-30 or 10-40 instead of the recommended 5-30, but check the screen first.
  • I have not driven my T&C for almost 2 months (due to some brake problem that I'll post later.) I went to a local emmision test station yesterday. They said my OBD is not ready and need to drive my car normally for next couple of weeks - called drive cycle. Does anybody know how can I tell if my OBD to be in "Ready" state? I really don't think I need to drive 2 weeks in order to get OBD started.
  • mickeyrommickeyrom Posts: 936
    I have a 1997 LXi and its still running good after 148,000 miles.Im about to start with a synthetic oil regimen,and change it once a year.(i dont drive it much any more) :)
  • mickeyrommickeyrom Posts: 936
    I bought my 1997 Town and Country LXi(at daughters insistence)brand new.I changed oil every 3000 miles and did the routine maintenance.Despite the fact that I had an accident in it,it still is pretty rattle free and orginal engine and tranny.My only complaint is the weird noises I hear sometimes from the transmission and drive train.Otherwise it's the best car I have ever owned.
    AC condenser(the thing under the dash,maybe its the wrong term)
    Serpentine belt
    tie rods
    brake shoes
    Brake fluid lines
    Battery x 2
    car horn
    water pump(mechanic suggestion)
    Most of the repairs I considered pretty routine. :D
  • mickeyrommickeyrom Posts: 936
    That was my question too,I guess maybe he doesnt know. :confuse:
  • jrsygirljrsygirl Posts: 3
    I am having the same issue. I keep a second set of rotors because they warp about every 10-12k miles. I was told by one dealer that the back brakes were not set correctly causing the front to work too hard. Another dealer told me the calipers were sticking. Either way... I can't stand it anymore. It is in the shop again for the dealer to fix issues they didn't fix properly too start with. Thankfully i have the extended warranty and so it doesn't cost me much of anything to have them look at it and fix it. I will post what they come up with and whether or not they cover it under the warranty. I can tell you that i can't say the person who posted it is because some people ride the gas or the brake... well i don't so there has got to be some kind of common issue.
  • murdoogmurdoog Posts: 1
    My 1997 LXi's transmission went out a year ago. This was the only problem with the van. I am now in a position to get it fixed. Any advice?
  • mickeyrommickeyrom Posts: 936
    Hard to advise someone on how to spend their hard earned money.If the car is in excellent condition otherwise,I would shop around for a rebuilt tranny.Where I live,I could get an overhaul for approx $1200.A 10 year old car isnt worth much on the open market,so I guess it depends on what it's worth to you.
  • mickeyrommickeyrom Posts: 936
    My 97 Town and Country makes a strange rattling noise from the front of the car.If anyone can remember the sound bad heat risers used to make,or maybe even "labor knocks",that is what it sounds like.The reason that I'm sure its not the pinging or labor knock is because it does it without :sick: acceleration.
  • I too am going crazy with my brakes - jrsygirl, did you find out anything new when you took your van in this last time?
  • I changed front brake pads turned front rotors and now my brake pedal will not stay pumped up. I can pump brake up it will stay for about 30 seconds then I push on the brake again it goes to the floor fluid is full have bled brakes. Now I don't know what to do. Could the master cylander be going bad? Need help.
  • mickeyrommickeyrom Posts: 936
    Possibly master brake cylinder...Are you losing fluid?
  • Hi,

    No, I'm not losing any fluid. It seems that it may be something internal in the master cylander. I just went out and the brakes seem to be pumping up better.
    It's wierd cause I just got done changing brakes on a 1998 caravan and they are working great. this town and country is giving me fits.
  • mickeyrommickeyrom Posts: 936
    Sounds like there is an internal leak in the master cyl....Let me know how that works out...and good luck.
  • dhaywooddhaywood Posts: 3
    We have had the following issues with our Town and Country

    1. When we turn on the vehicle the radio, wiper, power windows, and ac/heater do not turn on, but the van runs normal otherwise. Then if we turn it off and back on right away they work.
    2. Sometime (more often then not lately) when all the above things are working while driving the radio (radio, CD, tape) will suddenly go to a buzzing noise and will not work again until the van has been off for a least an hour.
    3. NOW- tonight my husband saw flashing lights outside our window. When he went out to check it out our light were flashing quickly on our radio was turning on and off. The fuse box was also ticking. The vehicle had been turned off for over an hour and there were not keys in it. We unplugged the battery for now.

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