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New Mitsubishi Outlander Owners Give us your report

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Comments

  • and in the Trims & Accessories page:

    http://www.mitsucars.com/MMNA/jsp/outlander/08/trims.do?loc=en-us#trimsTab

    utlander XLS V6
    Driving on asphalt in the Outlander XLS may be optional, but exclusive extras come standard. Under-floor stowable compact third-row seating. Steering-wheel-mounted paddle shifters. 18-inch aluminum alloy wheels. FAST Key (Free-Hand Advanced Security Transmitter) passive keyless entry system. Automatic climate control. Bluetooth® hands-free phone interface with voice recognition. The list goes on and on.
    ENGINE: 3.0-liter, 220-horsepower*, MIVEC V6 engine with 204 lb-ft of torque
    TRANSMISSION: 2WD or 4WD; six-speed Sportronic® transmission with steering wheel-mounted paddle shifters
    INTERIOR: Air conditioning, power windows, locks and mirrors, power glass sunroof, FAST (Freehand Advanced Security Transmitter) key, multi-information dot-matrix display, 60/40 split-fold/tumble/recline adjuster back seats, cruise control, nine cup holders, sport fabric seats with leather bolsters, high-contrast meters, 115V power outlet and 13 storage compartments
    EXTERIOR: silver roof rails and door handles, aluminum roof panel, 18-inch alloy wheels, flap-fold tailgate, combination LED tail lamps, color-keyed mirrors, rear privacy glass, V6 badge, dual exhaust finisher, fog lights and daytime running lights
    SAFETY: active stability control (ASC), four-wheel disc anti-lock brakes with Electronic Brakeforce Distribution (EBD) and an advanced dual-stage front SRS airbag† safety system with roll sensing side-curtain airbags†
    *In California and other low-emissions states, the PZEV engine has 213 horsepower.
    †Airbags are part of a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS). To decrease the risk of injury from a deploying airbag, always wear your seatbelt, sit upright in the middle of the seat and do not lean against the door. Always place children 12 and under in the rear seat and use appropriate child restraints. Never place a rear-facing infant restraint in the front seat. See your Owner's Manual and instructions provided with your child restraint for additional information
  • biscuit_xlsbiscuit_xls Posts: 194
    The Trims & Accessories page is correct, the XLS comes with Halogen headlights, fog lights and DRLs.

    If you choose the Luxury Package you get Xenon HID headlights and the fog lights are replaced with low wattage DRL lights.

    Seems simple enough to me.
  • I guess we all can't be MENSA members like yourself.
  • I'm not referring to the sandblasted rear fender flares. I'm referring to the chips on the front fender flares (behind the headlamps), hood, roof and doors. Basically every painted surface but the rear hatch (fingers crossed). How will mud flaps help?

    Mitsubishi should equip the Qutlander with mud flaps as part of the design to prevent the sandblasting. Virtually every small SUV on the road has flared fenders, and maybe half have front mud flaps. Whether their rear fender flares would get blasted without the flaps is not certain. What is certain is that the half without flaps don't exhibit the same problem as the Outlander.

    And, to answer your question, yes it is worth it if I dissuade even one potential buyer until Mitsubishi corrects the problem. Unfortunately, they've demonstrated no concern thus far. We need to maintain our resolve, and hit them in the wallet in the mean time. Don't visit the thread if it offends you. ;-)
  • I bought the mudflaps for mine after what I've read here. Hopefully, it will curb any chipping.
  • piastpiast Posts: 269
    No, it doesn't offend me; we can discuss any topic as long as it is realistic. We can talk about mud flaps and running boards all day long. But blaming manufacturer for chips on your hood, roof or bumpers is just ridiculous. Try this in any forum.
    Yes Mitsubishi should equip OUTLANDER with long mud flaps or side plastic panels at the bottom of the doors, like many other manufactures did. Something should be done for those areas. For now, you can just add those extra long flaps, and solve your problem. As far as flying stones from the car in front of you, how is that a Mitsubishi fault? If you think so, then go on your little war if you wish.
  • janscijansci Posts: 5
    got it for $200 (including installation) from the dealer, hence, the high price...

    hopefully as time goes by we can get cheaper accessories outside the dealerships...
  • piastpiast Posts: 269
    That seams high, did you get long ones with Outlander logo (Japanese OEM), or plastic ones, sold here? I got short ones at first, they were fine, until they start using salt/sand mix for the last few storms. After few weeks, I spotted few chips on both of rear doors, and extended those mud guards with flexible rubber flaps. I have no problems since. I hope you will be well protected with your setup. Other than that, I still love this car. The only regret - I should go with leather seats. Fabric looks good, but I can't keep lint and dust off of it.
  • No wars here...

    In the last five months I've driven the same roads that I drove for nine years in my Nissan. When I traded the Nissan it had one chip on each front fender.

    In order to try and establish a baseline standard, albeit simplistic, I cited the example of friends in our ski club whose cars average 5 years and 60K plus, and have 2 to 3 chips compared to my 25. They drive the same roads that I do (literally, but they've driven them 10 times longer). By the time I have 60K on my Outlander, I'll be lucky to have any paint left.

    I understand how some either simply cannot understand the underlying implication, or how some simply do not want to understand. Whichever boat you are in is no problem with me.

    I know... perhaps the real problem is that every other manufacturer puts too much workmanship into the finish on their cars. That's just not fair to Mitsubishi! ;)
  • piastpiast Posts: 269
    " Whichever boat you are in is no problem with me"
    I guess common sense one. I drove my Outlander for the last nine months, and I don't have any chips on front fenders, or roof, or hood, or front doors, or bumpers. Nil. I drove it behind salt trucks, dump trucks, landscaping trucks, delivery trucks. Nothing. On dusty roads, on wet roads, on back roads. Null. I went skiing, hauling, speeding and cruising. Nada. What worse, I'm not the only one. Can you imagine that out there, there may be more owners, with more miles, and still without any damage? Some owners experienced chips and damage at the bottom of the rear doors, and that is what we are discussing here for months now. Seams that high ground clearance, flared fenders and lack of body cladding or long mud flaps, combined with sandy or gavel roads can cause some troubles. I still can't see how other areas affected on your vehicle can be related.
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 390
    Well a possibility exists that at times the quality control varied.. I personally don't have problems on my '07 LS with black pearl paint, but I've only got 7500 miles. The LS also has the narrower tires. I remember Chrysler and GM having troubles with primers in the 80s. If you had one of the affected vehicles you would see the topcoat paint peeling off (but they didn't all do it). You would think these days with modern Japanese quality control measures in place that it would be a rarity though.
  • chelentanochelentano Posts: 634
    I searched this board for "paint" and found tons threads for about every manufacturer's paint quality complaints:

    Discussion Title Last Post Total New
    Toyota Prius Paint Quality? 6/7/08 16 16
    Honda Odyssey Paint Issues 6/5/08 41 41
    Suzuki Forenza Troubles 6/3/08 82 79
    Toyota Corolla Paint Problems 6/3/08 2 2
    Mitsubishi Lancer 2008 Paint Chips 6/3/08 33 13
    Pontiac G6 paint problem 6/2/08 2 2
    Acura TL Paint and Exterior Care 6/2/08 81 78
    Dodge Dakota Paint issues 5/29/08 4 4
    2008 Lexus ES 350 Paint Problems 5/28/08 1 1
    2008 RAV4 Bad Paint 5/27/08 1 1
    Spectra Paint Quality? 5/26/08 51 50
    Mazda Protege Rust Problems 5/25/08 2 2
    Ford Escape Paint 5/12/08 5 4
    Mazda CX-9 Paint and Body Work Questions 5/9/08 13 12
    Paint Chips Again 07 Outlander 5/6/08 17 17
    Xterra paint for front and back plastic 4/29/08 1 1
    Chrysler 300M Care and Maintenance 4/28/08 86 82
    2008 Impreza Exterior Paint Problems 4/18/08
    Chevrolet Cobalt General Care & Maintenance 4/10/08 121 112
    Ford Expedition Rust and Paint Issues 4/8/08 32 32
    07 Denali paint chipping 4/7/08 16 11
    Santa FE paint job 2007+ 3/11/08 18 17
    Nissan Versa Paint and Exterior Issues 2/18/08 4 4
    Chevrolet Impala Paint Problems 2/6/08 137 131
    Hyundai Elantra Exterior Issues 1/12/08 15 15
    Honda Accord Quality Control Issues 12/12/07 3546 3422
    Honda Fit Exterior & Paint Questions 10/31/07 43 43
    Paint dots on windshield & lights - why??? 7/30/07 5 5
    cheap paint jobs 9/29/04 18 18
    Paint Problem - long post 8/25/03 14 14
    Read this before purchasing an Acura 3.2 CL 3/26/02 71 65
    WHITE PAINT PROBLEM 7/21/03 8 8
    2003 Tacoma Paint Chips 5/22/03 14 13
    Paint Chipping is it the new softer paint or specific makes/models? 7/23/02 18 18
    Maxima PAINT quality problems 11/5/01 3 3
    Paint Colors: Which are easiest to match for repair of chips? 10/17/01 23 22
    GrandPrix paint peeling 9/4/01 2 2
    Dodge Paint peeling problem 7/14/01 5 5
    1996 buick rivera paint problem on hood. 2/21/01 3 3
    1996 Dodge Ram 1500 Paint Defects 7/28/00 2 2
    U.S. Paint problems 10/9/98 43 43
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    This is a good example of research contribution.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    TPMS and MMCS
    After a few miles in the highway in a brand new 2008 Outlander XLS V6 (with the Navigation System) the control cluster flagged the ‘tire’ icon and a text: ‘SERVICE REQUIRED’. Since then this light and text is permanently on. The dealer asked me to take the car back to scan and check the TPMS sensors of the vehicle. However, it appears that the MMCS has a menu to reset/set the TPMS and this can be done at home without taking the car to the dealership. Is this the right action to take?

    Does anyone have any experience about this problem and has managed to solve it at home just by operating the MMCS menu?
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Sorry, I forgot to mention that the four tire pressure have been consistently at 32 Bar or 33 PSIA since I bought the car (early morning).
  • kathydobkathydob Posts: 2
    i love my 2007 outlander except for one thing that is a constant annoyance. the miles per gallon resets after sitting idle for four hours!!! why don't they fix that!! :mad:
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Today I took the 4-tires off to install the brand new mud flaps I have ordered from Japan. The final product looks nice.

    I would like to make some comments about the state of the underbody of the car. Without going into details I will say that there were symptoms of rust/corrosion in the area where the wheel attaches to the rotor. This confirms the comments of a member that said that he found it extremely difficult to take the wheel off of his Outlander after one-year. Equally it is very easy to cross-thread the wheel nuts giving the false appearance that the nuts are threading easily. Take extra care when you rotate your tires.

    There are visible symptoms of corrosion in the muffle holders and suspension arm edges. I haven’t seen this symptom of rust in a vehicle 3-week old ever. I have a Lexus SC300 and a Hyundai Tucson and you see these rust/corrosion symptoms after 1-year perhaps.
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 390
    There are visible symptoms of corrosion in the muffle holders and suspension arm edges. I haven’t seen this symptom of rust in a vehicle 3-week old ever. I have a Lexus SC300 and a Hyundai Tucson and you see these rust/corrosion symptoms after 1-year perhaps.

    What was the manufacture date of your vehicle?. It may be brand new to you, but could have sat on a lot in another part of the country for a bit. (dealers swap cars around, especially when the buyer is looking for something in particular that does not seem to be available locally). There is also the phenomenon know as "rail rust" when cars are transported on trains.
  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    If you have the display screen and go to the fuel readout there you will find the auto and manual setting. The total is retained and can be viewed by hitting the manual button.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Mitsubishi has release a product called Outlander Protective Film (p/n: AUT07YXX01) that seems to address the concerns of a number of customers with paint chipping problems in the rear rocket panels. However the DIY instructions are not easy to follow. I think I will use the services of a certified 3M person to do the job for me.
  • I saw a new '08 yesterday (temp tag was 3 days old), and it had mud flaps installed on the front. I don't know whether Mits is finally including them, if the dealer was being proactive, or if the owner had been reading this thread.
  • kev_dxkev_dx Posts: 2
    Yesterday I traded in my 2005 Outlander for a 2008 Outlander SE. It's green with the beige interior. I don't mind the beige interior, except I'm worried about how quickly it will get dirty. I wanted the green, but since the Outlander brochure said it was only available in the XLS, I had given up. Then on my way to look at the graphite grey ES, I walked by a green one that didn't say V6 on the side. Looked at the sticker and saw the "SE". I don't think the dealer even new they had this trim level. Paid a little more to get the color I wanted and some "nice to have's" without having to pay for the 6 cylinder or the third row of seats, which weren't important to me.

    I love the SE trim level. The Fast Key is cool. The 115V power outlet is new for me. Didn't have that in the '05. We'll see if I ever use it. The sun & sound is nice. The satellite radio is keeping the wife busy :) so she's not begging to drive all of the time. She never wanted to drive the '05. She likes driving the '08.

    One thing I noticed is that it doesn't seem to accelerate from a stop as fast as my '05 did. Do I just need to "break in" the '08? Maybe I should've gotten the 6 cylinder??? It drives nice overall. Played with the paddle shifters, but will probably leave it in full automatic all of the time. Feels pretty smooth and quiet, but they've fixed a lot of potholes around here already.

    I think the look of the '08 is much better than the '05. It feels bigger. Maybe 'cause I jacked the driver's seat all the way up. :) The LED tail lights look good and the fold down tailgate seems great. There were probably six times I tried to put something into my '05 that would've fit, if I could've gotten it through the opening. I'm hoping the fold down tailgate solves that.

    Haven't spent to much time in it yet, but that's my thoughts so far.
  • dodo2dodo2 Posts: 496
    Batman: Do you have a picture of the film? I'm interested in its shape. Second, do you have the price for it?
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    No I don't have a picture. Once the film is installed the film is transparent. You can order it from any dealership and the price is $50 for the kit. Nobody wanted to installed ($100) it, so I decided to follow the instructions as close I could. Now my car has this protective film in the rear. My car has also the front and rear mudflap (Japan OEM). It looks cool.

    The end finishing is not as a professional job but it will do the job.
  • dodo2dodo2 Posts: 496
    Thanks Batman. When I was asking for pictures, I was just wondering about the area that this film would cover - if indeed completely covers the area I think it should. Maybe you can snap a picture and post it with the film installed.
    $50 bucks seems a reasonable price - I was planning to go to a detailing shop and have the film custom-made.

    I'm asking all these questions because the other day I was checking out some 08 models in the dealer lot and it seems like they come with some extra film (going higher around the wheel well arch) on the rear door frame, but not on the door itself. However, the piece on the door it's the same size as on earlier models. I find this setup odd as it does not address the main issue - the major damage is on the door itself. I hope what you got covers the bulge on the rear door, up to about the height of the rear wheel.
  • Do you recall whether the '08 had factory mud flaps in the front?
  • dodo2dodo2 Posts: 496
    No, they don't. It's still an accessory.
  • dodo2dodo2 Posts: 496
    For those interested, the Canadian price for the Outlander Protective Film is $75.82+tax. If we could only see how it looks installed, it would be great. Unfortunately, there are not details in the dealer's system.
  • dodo2dodo2 Posts: 496
    The product seems like it will overlap with the existing clear film on the door. I wonder how good it would look. BTW, how difficult is to remove the existing clear film patch?
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