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New Mitsubishi Outlander Owners Give us your report

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Comments

  • As poor as the paint is on this vehicle, I'd be reluctant to try and remove the existing film.

    I had a body shop look at the damage on my Outlander, and their recommendation was to augment the existing film. They too were concerned that the paint would come with it if the film were to be removed.
  • dodo2dodo2 Posts: 496
    "As poor as the paint is on this vehicle, I'd be reluctant to try and remove the existing film.

    I had a body shop look at the damage on my Outlander, and their recommendation was to augment the existing film. They too were concerned that the paint would come with it if the film were to be removed."


    I have to say this is an incorrect assessment. I just had the OEM film removed from my Outlander today and replaced with extended 3M protective film. The work was done at a 3M certified shop and it did not affect the paint at all. The cost was $60 CAD+tax (cheaper then the OEM Clear Film Kit mentioned in a previous post).

    The only issue I had was that for few chips, the touch-up paint came off when they applied the solution to prepare the area. If you go this route, be prepared to redo the touch-ups after they apply the solution and before they install the 3M film.
    Other than that, the work was done at my satisfaction.

    Next, I think I'll go go for a clear bra on the hood and front fenders. I have quite a few chips on those areas and it will only get worse in time. This will be around $250+tax job.
  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    I'm using a combination of products. The www.invisiblemask.com on the sides and bumper and the www.magnetbra.com product on the hood. Both are excellent and have varied benefits. Patience is needed for the installation of the 3m product but very easy and they even send a dvd along with to ensure one doesn't get ahead of oneself. But the magnet bra is dumb proof and a perfect fit.
  • dodo2dodo2 Posts: 496
    20vcq: Have you had your car repainted? IIRC you had pretty severe paint damage on yours.
  • I bought my gray Outlander around that time, and live just outside of Atlanta. I purchased a set of 4 mudflaps from the deal from what I've read in this forum. Since I'm leasing, I thought it was the best way to go. I think it was $113 for the set of 4.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    A Genuine Test:

    In spite of all that bad comments about the Outlander XLS V6, I bought one because it suited my requirements (front seats that recline backward almost flat, where I could sleep, my partner and I), total carry weight equivalent to 8-passengers (i.e. 2-persons plus total weight (luggage) equivalent to 6- adult persons inclusive of a roof box), 115V connection (e.g. juice maker, or evening lamps, laptop movies etc), Navigation System and keyless engine starter, electrical driver seat to mention some goodies.

    I took this car first onto the Alaska Highway until Fairbanks (Alaska) and then onto the Dalton Highway all the way to Deadhorse. I drove fast 70 miles up on tarmac and 50-60 miles on unpaved road (gravel). On my way to Deadhorse I overtook a Subaru Outback and on my way back I overtook a Subaru Forester (the old version). The journey back took me 11 hours from Deadhorse to Fairbanks (around 500 miles). The whole of the journey the Outlander was fully loaded with camping stuff (included a gas cooker, collapsible table, chairs, tent, crockery air pumps, car care stuff, food, books, etc.

    The Outlander soaked bump and potholes (5 to 6 inches wide) easily to my surprise. On our way back to Fairbanks it took us more than 3 hours to clean the car that was full of mud (sometimes 3 inches thick). The rear mud flaps were damaged and the “outlander” logos on the rear mud flaps were practically destroyed. The good news was that the car only has very few paint chips (six tiny ones in total) around 1/16 inches wide) in the front (nose) but nothing in the side of the car where many in this forum have complained about paint chipping. We are sure that the mud flaps installed in the front and rear has done an excellent job of preventing paint chipping on the car and I can assure you that the mud flaps work. We also installed the plastic transparent film. My mud flaps were OEM imported from Japan.

    My Outlander has lost 2 nuts (plastic nuts) that hold the plastic protector in the wheel arches (rear). A number of nuts under the driver facia are loose and who know where more nuts are loose. The car has now a light rattle noise that becomes apparently when the car hits gravel or potholes on the road. I am planning now to take the car back to service (8K miles), so they can tighten up the car and so perhaps get rid off of the rattle.

    Another thing to mention is the Navigation system works in USA and Canada with exception of Alaska. Fortunately we had a Garmin GPS to guide our journey in Alaska.

    We are so far happy with our Outlander. It is smooth on tarmac but the car, although it behaves reasonably OK on gravel, is not for long punishment on gravel roads or soft off road tracks. Suspension seems to be soft and when the car is fully loaded there is very short wheel clearance to negotiate bumping roads or potholes without banging noises (few occasions).
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    The protector film I was talking about will not protect the type of stone paint chipping that may happen at high speed due to small stones hitting the side of your car. The original mudguards are not low enough, so some stones manage to hit the side of your car. Please read "Genuine Test" is this forum for an account of the suitability of the mudflaps.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    In addition to the “Genuine Test” I would like to mention that many of the radiator fins/cells have been smashed and the effects look as if bullets have hit the radiator little fins/cells. The radiator standard protectors are not enough to prevent the damage. If you would like to subject your Outlander to the kind of punishment I did to it, perhaps you need to buy a nose protector accessory and radiator grid accessory with smaller holes for air go through.
  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    Well Batman I am about to take mine on the same or similar route next week. From Victoria BC to Alaska and back for a month. The difference is I will be towing a Fun Finder 14' trailer. I am interested in how t will perform and have really no doubts about it with loads of torque etc. I am interested to know if you left your mags and 55 series tires on or..?
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    I didn’t change the wheels sizes. I used the OEM tires (i.e. 225/55R18). As I said I was a bit surprise how these tires (or suspension) soaked the road gravel imperfections especially after reaching optimal speed (e.g. 45-55 miles per hour). The OEM tires (Good Year) didn’t impress me at all. Be careful the road could be very slippery (apparently they spray some sections of the road with some chemical to control the dust but this makes it very slippery in parts and also it is renowned for rotting your car so you need to clean it as soon as possible) and even with AWD locked engaged could be a challenge to control. You will find many road work and Lorries that will through a lot of stones at you. When you see these big trucks just reduce your speed. What is true is that your car will be covered with plenty of mud and dust.
  • dodo2dodo2 Posts: 496
    Batman47:

    You are right, the regular mudguards do not totally protect the side of the car, but they do reduce the height of the exposed area on the door flares and the bottom of the doors. I got a pretty good depiction of the risk areas on the doors from driving in snow slush last winter before and after I installed the regular mudguards. Protecting those areas with 3M protective film and door garnish would totally solve the problem in my opinion. Of course the stones would still hit the car, but I hope the 3M film would do its job preventing the chips from damaging the paint. The door garnish would probably get chipped over time too but it's made of plastic so it wouldn't rust and it can be touched up eventually.

    Obviously, the super-sized mudflaps from Japan would do a much better job than the regular ones available in North America, virtually eliminating the possibility of the stones to even hit the car.
  • emiesemies Posts: 5
    I have about 1K miles on my ES outlander and all in all I'm happy. The two problems I have thus far are: 1) The blue tooth is horrible! Wish I didn’t pay for it. I can hear people fine but that cant ear me. I have no way of knowing if this is just my car or my phone because I have found no info on the web and no one has responded to my post on this issue so for now, I’m going to blame Mitsubishi. 2) is the MPG's, got 22.8MPGs on fairly evenly split (city and highway) driving. From what I see here there are 6cyl getting 27MPG and 30MPG on the highway so why my 4cly is getting at least the same is mind boggling. The only thing I can think of is the CVT and the weight of the car vs. the little 4cyl...
  • piastpiast Posts: 269
    1) Blue tooth reception is not that bad on mine (07 XLS/ Motorola Razor), but I have to speak rather loud for other party to hear me well. I'm still not sure where the mike is located, but directing your voice that way should help.
    2) 21-23 MPG is my average range for V6, suburban warm weather driving. On highway I saw numbers from 23 MPG (with strong cross wind, 75 mph) to 27MPG (calm day, 65MPG).
    Try get to steady speed 65-70 mph with light traffic on the highway and then press and hold reset button. Cruise this way for a few miles, and you will be surprise by your MPG number. As soon as you exit, and go into stop and go traffic, it will drop like a rock. Maybe those good reports are coming from people living in more rural areas than you?
    And yes, 4cyl and V6 have to move around about the same weight.
  • emiesemies Posts: 5
    In the 08 it is near the rearview mirror/maplights.
  • I have just bought an Outlander GLS 3.0 with the folding 3rd row. The point is that when it is in the folding position, the back rest is not locked (in folding position the back rest is the floor of the trunk), so when I hit a bump or go over some steep hill the back rest jumps from its position and make a huge noise. I went to the dealer and they told me that this is like this, that the backrest is not locked. Is it really like this or the dealer is cheating on me?
  • ivettivett Posts: 2
    they are deffinately cheating you. mine has the 3rd row seeting too, but never moves at all. once I put it down, it is locked in.
  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    I have removed mine but I do remember the back rest was not secure - the seat as a whole clickd nto place but the back rest seemed to rely on its weight to stay in place. But I never heard it bounce around either. By the way it weight 86 lbs :)
  • Hello,
    I am a new owner of the vehicle above... so far so goooood... I am happy for the looks (black with black leather), sporty feel, Rockford Fosgate stereo and room for 7. Things I am missing most from my '04 Murano: the compass/garage door opener on the rearview mirror; memory for the driver's seat, as I am 5'11" and my wife 5". We only have one car so every time I need to drive, i have to adjust the seat from outside the vehicle or I won't even get in...

    Two things I need help with:

    1) Does anyone know where to get an owners manual cheap (or free)? the dealer quoted me $57 plus tax (in our case a hefty 10.5% more) which I thought was outrageous

    2) Can I / Should I replace the radio for the OEM Navigation? Can I buy it at any site? Is it the same type / power system as my original one (subwoofer, amp, etc)?? I am between doing this or buying a portable GPS for my wife (ours got stolen recently).

    Thanks !! :shades:
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,247
    I Googled for "mitsubishi outlander owner manual" and came up with this one for the '07. I don't think there are any differences worth noting between 07 & 08. http://www.deltainfo.ro/manuals/mitsu/outlander/Outlander2007usermanual_eng.pdf

    I don't know how integrated the RF stereo is with the head/display. That is, I don't know if you can stick the navi display in front of the stereo or if they're a single unit. Internally I'm sure they're the same but that doesn't mean they're packaged that way. For instance, the navi will also have a GPS receiver that may or may not be integrated into the unit.

    Personally, I prefer in-dash navi units but in your case I'd recommend a handheld. I wouldn't settle for replacing the RF with anything less powerful and I've a gut feeling the OEM navi will be too expensive, especially with installation costs on top of parts. Also, as a replacement part it would probably only be warranted for a year while right now, depending on mileage, you may have significantly longer than that on your warranty.

    If you're in the area, check out the Mitsu Owners Day. The first is in Cypress, CA but there will be a coupe of others: http://www.mitsubishicars.com/MMNA/jsp/owners-site/owners-day.do . I plan on taking my '10 GT to the Chicago area MOD; I think it'll be in August.
  • Thanks for the tip, but the manual is for the European version and several things are different from my 2008 (at least they look different), starting with the keys... but it is a start, anyways...

    as to the Navigation, I would replace the RF stereo only for the original Navi + HD music package, which I believe fits exactly into the slot provided in the dash replacing the RF unit. My question was to owners of cars with original navi + stereo, if it still has a great sound and the subwoofer and amp work...
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 395
    One thing I've heard about the factory Navi package is that updates are infrequent. Not sure if this has been corrected since reading about it here, but I think they were over a year old last I heard. Aftermarket GPS are far cheaper and updates are frequent. I know one thing I absolutely hate about my RF (non-music server) is the red LED readout is useless in daylight (washes out with any sun or is too dim when lights are turned on in the rain). If the sound wasn't so great I'd be ripping it out.
  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    Nav system - updates cost $190 are two years out of date when you get them - go with a hand held Garmin etc

    Sound system its pretty good - can't see why you would change - unless you go high high end and are an audiophile.

    Warning - this is a plow horse compared to the Morano - don't go hot into the corners as you would have .. you wont like the plow understeer - and the "on demand" all wheel drive can get very annoying with its momentary delay in tight snow covered corners. Other than those comments I also like mine - and it can tow 3500 lbs of trailer to boot.
    But it is no Audi or Morano :)
    IMHO
  • dkrwdkrw Posts: 3
    edited March 2012
    hi could you tell us how your paint prob got resolved? we are having same thing an now dealer says i have to buy mud flaps all around. we bought a 2011 outlander in aug . paint is really chipped around rear doors where it meets the fender please help if you can
  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    No solution from manufacturere or dealer. I put an insurnace claim through for total or almost paint job and installed a plastic coating to the area below belt line on both sides and front end of car - but also installed ROMIC running board which was the real solution to the side chips.
    http://www.invisiblecarbras.com/
    Oh and if you decide to install the invisible bra - heed the warning about no breezes while working tith the front especially - you REALLY need a closed garage :)
  • mcollismcollis Posts: 25
    After NO help from Mitsubishi (though the dealer did install a bit of 3M protective material on their own dime), I solved the problem by turning the vehicle in and going back to Volkswagen. Nary a chip on the VW, so I KNOW it's not "my roads."
  • Sounds like Mitsubishi has yet to correct their paint problem. Like the previous poster I traded mine in. The X4 I drove through 3 Colorado winters (and on exactly the same roads) survived without a single chip, and the XRS we purchased last fall made it through the first winter without a chip, and without the rear floor carpeting coming up, and without replacing the transmission, etc. I'll never buy another Mitsubishi, and I warn anyone who asks to stear clear.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Yes Mitsubishi Motors has a paint problem and it is a pity, really, because the car is very good in all terrain. Cars can be protected by installing flexible mud flaps in the front (not mud guards) which unfortunately are not sold in the USA. Your dealer (part department) may order from you directly from Japan. It is costly but it works. The kit part number is MZ531375 (25,000 yens). The kit provides mud flaps for the front and rear of the car. The flaps will protect your car from flying stones produced by the front wheels rotations.

    Flying stones are also produced by trucks and cars at high speed travelling in both directions to you. These stones can chip not only your car paint but also lacerate your wind screen. No car paint can sustain this punishment regardless of car make.

    Protective film kits are also a good help (e.g. AUT07yxx01) and hood protector (e.g. MR936650), etc. You may need to change them every 3-4 years for new ones. However after this time you may be thinking in trade your car for a new one.
  • dkrwdkrw Posts: 3
    yes and thank you we feel also never buy another mits bought it in aug and car hasnt been on the road since january. thats what i say cheap paint job whats the diff between flaps and mud guards? as in previous post?
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    The mud “flap” is made of a very strong and flexible plastic a bit wider and longer than the mud “guard” which are made of very strong plastic. The “flap” distorts according the shape of the road while the “guard” does not. I used these “flap” in my adventure to Alaska, and indeed it works. I personally ordered them from Japan and the Japanese seller (accept VISA card) sent it to me to my address in the USA. Although I protected the vehicle from flying stones from the front wheels, many paint chips on the body where done by passing by vehicles (e.g. big trunks).

    You may take your VW, BMW, Subaru, etc to Alaska and you will see that there is not paint strong enough to protect your car’s paint.
  • rcpaxrcpax Posts: 580
    i have an 07 outlander. it's black.and i don't have any paint chips. why? I installed mudguards and flaps early on. the first week of ownership, it was very apparent from the amount of road splash that the rear door is getting hit bad by road debris.i didn't wait. I bought OEM mudguards, and still got a little bit of road debris even after that. Tha's when I decided to install longer mudflaps in addition to the mudguards. see here: http://goo.gl/vSx2E. 6 years and counting, no paint stripping. got dings and scratches but not paint stripping.

    this vehicle has design problems, especially the bottom part of the door. i don't think it's the paint at all.you can repaint it with other paint types but if you don't protect it with a long mudflap, it will get stripped.
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