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New Mitsubishi Outlander Owners Give us your report



  • dodo2dodo2 Posts: 496

    You are right, the regular mudguards do not totally protect the side of the car, but they do reduce the height of the exposed area on the door flares and the bottom of the doors. I got a pretty good depiction of the risk areas on the doors from driving in snow slush last winter before and after I installed the regular mudguards. Protecting those areas with 3M protective film and door garnish would totally solve the problem in my opinion. Of course the stones would still hit the car, but I hope the 3M film would do its job preventing the chips from damaging the paint. The door garnish would probably get chipped over time too but it's made of plastic so it wouldn't rust and it can be touched up eventually.

    Obviously, the super-sized mudflaps from Japan would do a much better job than the regular ones available in North America, virtually eliminating the possibility of the stones to even hit the car.
  • emiesemies Posts: 5
    I have about 1K miles on my ES outlander and all in all I'm happy. The two problems I have thus far are: 1) The blue tooth is horrible! Wish I didn’t pay for it. I can hear people fine but that cant ear me. I have no way of knowing if this is just my car or my phone because I have found no info on the web and no one has responded to my post on this issue so for now, I’m going to blame Mitsubishi. 2) is the MPG's, got 22.8MPGs on fairly evenly split (city and highway) driving. From what I see here there are 6cyl getting 27MPG and 30MPG on the highway so why my 4cly is getting at least the same is mind boggling. The only thing I can think of is the CVT and the weight of the car vs. the little 4cyl...
  • piastpiast Posts: 269
    1) Blue tooth reception is not that bad on mine (07 XLS/ Motorola Razor), but I have to speak rather loud for other party to hear me well. I'm still not sure where the mike is located, but directing your voice that way should help.
    2) 21-23 MPG is my average range for V6, suburban warm weather driving. On highway I saw numbers from 23 MPG (with strong cross wind, 75 mph) to 27MPG (calm day, 65MPG).
    Try get to steady speed 65-70 mph with light traffic on the highway and then press and hold reset button. Cruise this way for a few miles, and you will be surprise by your MPG number. As soon as you exit, and go into stop and go traffic, it will drop like a rock. Maybe those good reports are coming from people living in more rural areas than you?
    And yes, 4cyl and V6 have to move around about the same weight.
  • emiesemies Posts: 5
    In the 08 it is near the rearview mirror/maplights.
  • I have just bought an Outlander GLS 3.0 with the folding 3rd row. The point is that when it is in the folding position, the back rest is not locked (in folding position the back rest is the floor of the trunk), so when I hit a bump or go over some steep hill the back rest jumps from its position and make a huge noise. I went to the dealer and they told me that this is like this, that the backrest is not locked. Is it really like this or the dealer is cheating on me?
  • ivettivett Posts: 2
    they are deffinately cheating you. mine has the 3rd row seeting too, but never moves at all. once I put it down, it is locked in.
  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    I have removed mine but I do remember the back rest was not secure - the seat as a whole clickd nto place but the back rest seemed to rely on its weight to stay in place. But I never heard it bounce around either. By the way it weight 86 lbs :)
  • Hello,
    I am a new owner of the vehicle above... so far so goooood... I am happy for the looks (black with black leather), sporty feel, Rockford Fosgate stereo and room for 7. Things I am missing most from my '04 Murano: the compass/garage door opener on the rearview mirror; memory for the driver's seat, as I am 5'11" and my wife 5". We only have one car so every time I need to drive, i have to adjust the seat from outside the vehicle or I won't even get in...

    Two things I need help with:

    1) Does anyone know where to get an owners manual cheap (or free)? the dealer quoted me $57 plus tax (in our case a hefty 10.5% more) which I thought was outrageous

    2) Can I / Should I replace the radio for the OEM Navigation? Can I buy it at any site? Is it the same type / power system as my original one (subwoofer, amp, etc)?? I am between doing this or buying a portable GPS for my wife (ours got stolen recently).

    Thanks !! :shades:
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,217
    I Googled for "mitsubishi outlander owner manual" and came up with this one for the '07. I don't think there are any differences worth noting between 07 & 08.

    I don't know how integrated the RF stereo is with the head/display. That is, I don't know if you can stick the navi display in front of the stereo or if they're a single unit. Internally I'm sure they're the same but that doesn't mean they're packaged that way. For instance, the navi will also have a GPS receiver that may or may not be integrated into the unit.

    Personally, I prefer in-dash navi units but in your case I'd recommend a handheld. I wouldn't settle for replacing the RF with anything less powerful and I've a gut feeling the OEM navi will be too expensive, especially with installation costs on top of parts. Also, as a replacement part it would probably only be warranted for a year while right now, depending on mileage, you may have significantly longer than that on your warranty.

    If you're in the area, check out the Mitsu Owners Day. The first is in Cypress, CA but there will be a coupe of others: . I plan on taking my '10 GT to the Chicago area MOD; I think it'll be in August.
  • Thanks for the tip, but the manual is for the European version and several things are different from my 2008 (at least they look different), starting with the keys... but it is a start, anyways...

    as to the Navigation, I would replace the RF stereo only for the original Navi + HD music package, which I believe fits exactly into the slot provided in the dash replacing the RF unit. My question was to owners of cars with original navi + stereo, if it still has a great sound and the subwoofer and amp work...
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 389
    One thing I've heard about the factory Navi package is that updates are infrequent. Not sure if this has been corrected since reading about it here, but I think they were over a year old last I heard. Aftermarket GPS are far cheaper and updates are frequent. I know one thing I absolutely hate about my RF (non-music server) is the red LED readout is useless in daylight (washes out with any sun or is too dim when lights are turned on in the rain). If the sound wasn't so great I'd be ripping it out.
  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    Nav system - updates cost $190 are two years out of date when you get them - go with a hand held Garmin etc

    Sound system its pretty good - can't see why you would change - unless you go high high end and are an audiophile.

    Warning - this is a plow horse compared to the Morano - don't go hot into the corners as you would have .. you wont like the plow understeer - and the "on demand" all wheel drive can get very annoying with its momentary delay in tight snow covered corners. Other than those comments I also like mine - and it can tow 3500 lbs of trailer to boot.
    But it is no Audi or Morano :)
  • dkrwdkrw Posts: 3
    edited March 2012
    hi could you tell us how your paint prob got resolved? we are having same thing an now dealer says i have to buy mud flaps all around. we bought a 2011 outlander in aug . paint is really chipped around rear doors where it meets the fender please help if you can
  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    No solution from manufacturere or dealer. I put an insurnace claim through for total or almost paint job and installed a plastic coating to the area below belt line on both sides and front end of car - but also installed ROMIC running board which was the real solution to the side chips.
    Oh and if you decide to install the invisible bra - heed the warning about no breezes while working tith the front especially - you REALLY need a closed garage :)
  • mcollismcollis Posts: 25
    After NO help from Mitsubishi (though the dealer did install a bit of 3M protective material on their own dime), I solved the problem by turning the vehicle in and going back to Volkswagen. Nary a chip on the VW, so I KNOW it's not "my roads."
  • Sounds like Mitsubishi has yet to correct their paint problem. Like the previous poster I traded mine in. The X4 I drove through 3 Colorado winters (and on exactly the same roads) survived without a single chip, and the XRS we purchased last fall made it through the first winter without a chip, and without the rear floor carpeting coming up, and without replacing the transmission, etc. I'll never buy another Mitsubishi, and I warn anyone who asks to stear clear.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Yes Mitsubishi Motors has a paint problem and it is a pity, really, because the car is very good in all terrain. Cars can be protected by installing flexible mud flaps in the front (not mud guards) which unfortunately are not sold in the USA. Your dealer (part department) may order from you directly from Japan. It is costly but it works. The kit part number is MZ531375 (25,000 yens). The kit provides mud flaps for the front and rear of the car. The flaps will protect your car from flying stones produced by the front wheels rotations.

    Flying stones are also produced by trucks and cars at high speed travelling in both directions to you. These stones can chip not only your car paint but also lacerate your wind screen. No car paint can sustain this punishment regardless of car make.

    Protective film kits are also a good help (e.g. AUT07yxx01) and hood protector (e.g. MR936650), etc. You may need to change them every 3-4 years for new ones. However after this time you may be thinking in trade your car for a new one.
  • dkrwdkrw Posts: 3
    yes and thank you we feel also never buy another mits bought it in aug and car hasnt been on the road since january. thats what i say cheap paint job whats the diff between flaps and mud guards? as in previous post?
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    The mud “flap” is made of a very strong and flexible plastic a bit wider and longer than the mud “guard” which are made of very strong plastic. The “flap” distorts according the shape of the road while the “guard” does not. I used these “flap” in my adventure to Alaska, and indeed it works. I personally ordered them from Japan and the Japanese seller (accept VISA card) sent it to me to my address in the USA. Although I protected the vehicle from flying stones from the front wheels, many paint chips on the body where done by passing by vehicles (e.g. big trunks).

    You may take your VW, BMW, Subaru, etc to Alaska and you will see that there is not paint strong enough to protect your car’s paint.
  • rcpaxrcpax Posts: 581
    i have an 07 outlander. it's black.and i don't have any paint chips. why? I installed mudguards and flaps early on. the first week of ownership, it was very apparent from the amount of road splash that the rear door is getting hit bad by road debris.i didn't wait. I bought OEM mudguards, and still got a little bit of road debris even after that. Tha's when I decided to install longer mudflaps in addition to the mudguards. see here: 6 years and counting, no paint stripping. got dings and scratches but not paint stripping.

    this vehicle has design problems, especially the bottom part of the door. i don't think it's the paint at can repaint it with other paint types but if you don't protect it with a long mudflap, it will get stripped.
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