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2007 Outbacks

mikeorbmikeorb Posts: 4
edited March 6 in Subaru
My dealer has some hidden away at a remote lot. I saw a new color: dark grey. And the MP3/AUX input in the armrest. The "wood" inlay was also now glossy (like it was under plastic), and I did not like this. He also mentioned XM radio (not sure if all models or just some). He did not have any brochures yet.
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Comments

  • bobdeebobdee Posts: 9
    Check out this page for information on 2007 Outbacks. It has the details about XM, colors, etc.

    Cars101
  • krccrkkrccrk Posts: 36
    2007 Edmunds info now available:

    http://www.edmunds.com/new/2007/subaru/outback/index.html

    No more XT non-Limiteds. Sigh. Think I'll just keep my current car another year.
  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,692
    Also note on this site is the new low-priced Outback basic, with Forester X steel wheels. There are pixs and content info here.

    Bob
  • Hello I have recently purchased a 07 outback ltd. I am interested in buying the amp/subwoofer that mounts under the drivers seat. I was hoping someone would be able to tell me how hard it would be to install myself. And also are there any additional parts needed besides the amp/subwoofer.
    Does anyone out there have the amp/sub in there outback? Would you consider it a good option?
    Any help with this would be greatly appreciated

    Thanks
  • terry92270terry92270 Posts: 1,247
    I got the sub, and the tweeter package, which really do make a BIG difference. For the $100 install, I would have the dealer do it.
  • Hi. It's a little confusing decyphering all the AWD's Subaru is offering these days.

    My question is; Is AWD in the Outback a reactive, or proactive design?

    By reactive (which is Haldex's design, used by Volvo, VW, Ford, Audi, GM, etc.), I mean the AWD doesn't kick in unless the front wheels slip, at which point the AWD turns on.

    By proactive, I mean the AWD is always working.
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    the Subaru AWD is always working. Non-VTD AT systems are biases 80/20 (or 90/10 depending on the year and source) front to rear. MT's are 50/50 biased. VTD systems are biased 45/55 front to rear. All systems can send power to the wheels that grip, better so on those with the limited slip rear differential. Sensors in the AT's also help it proactively shift traction.

    http://www.subaru.com/sub/misc/coretech/index.html

    -Brian
  • nickelnickel Posts: 147
    I thought that my 06 OB 2.5i AT ys 90/10. Never heard of 80/20. I also believed that when you engage 1st and 2nd gears the traction becames 50/50. Can you correct me?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Was only in the pre-97 ATs IIRC.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    They claimed 90/10 in the brochures and stuff, but we asked Patti to talk to her techies and they were the ones that told us it was more like 80/20.

    Any how, that's only the default power split, it actually adjust the minute you hit the gas, before there is any slip.

    They key difference for a Subaru AWD system is that *ALL* of them are engineered for full-time use, i.e. they don't overheat or disengage above 29mph like certain Rotary Blade Coupling-based AWD systems do.

    *cough* Honda *cough*

    -juice
  • Thnx for info on the AWD...glad to hear it is proactive.

    One oddity I find when pursuing Consumers Union reliability records... on their charts, most Subarus show way below average engine reliability after about 3-4 years.

    Is this due to the timing belt? I have read on other Subaru forums that timing belts need to be replaced around 100K miles, or they will break and "lunch" the motor.
    True? False?

    FYI, my old '83 Camry, with fiberglass timing belts, had two replacements (and broke one anway - engine survived it). Not fun. :sick:
  • terry92270terry92270 Posts: 1,247
    "...on their charts, most Subaru's show way below average engine reliability after about 3-4 years."

    Some? All? The charts I have always seen from CU rank Subaru near the top in dependability. What have you been looking at, specifically?

    Timing belts need to be replaced on all vehicles, and I do it way before 100K.
  • Good to know more about timing belts, thanks! Current engine is a somewhat updated pushrod.

    Yes, Subarus do well in general, but their engine "major reliability" catagory does not do as well as other brands like Toyota, Honda, etc,
    More worrysome is the drive system on Forester and Impreza goes way below average after about 3 years. Legacy seems to do much better by comparison.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,576
    Might be the head gasket reliability. Truly a major concern for 1996 through 2000.... up to 2002. One member here had a problem with his gaskets on a 2003. Really not time or mileage dependent, though. Mostly just luck of the draw! :cry:
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Not sure about reliability but my 2 race cars both held up well.

    The 1996 Impreza I started racing at 120k miles and put on about 10-20k track miles and no issues.

    The 1994 Legacy Turbo I got at 100k, it now has 150k, and I put on about 10-15k track miles and no motor issues.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    CR's records note drops in reliability for models affected by the head gaskets leaks, though we should note that Subaru covered those for 100k miles if you used a conditioner for the coolant that they put in free of charge.

    Besides that, wheel bearings on Imprezas before 2002, and Forester before 2003, were a known issue.

    What else? Not much, really. Those were the 2 biggest issues and they're resolved.

    Last year's CR Auto Issue had Subaru as the most reliable brand period for MY2004. In this year's issue, all Subaru models scored better than any single Acura model.

    Not bad, but nobody's perfect.

    -juice
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,576
    though we should note that Subaru covered those for 100k miles if you used a conditioner for the coolant that they put in free of charge. Only 99-02, by VIN (so some vehicles were not covered), but no coverage for 96-98, and those were certainly problematic years.

    Overall good cars though. My opinion of mine continues to shift toward the fonder side of the spectrum the longer I own it. Had I not been flat broke in Oct of 2000, I would have sold it then and never looked back. As it is, it's been fun! :P
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • nickelnickel Posts: 147
    Any idea how many (or %) of Outbacks and Legacys (XTs) come with a manual transmission?
  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,692
    On 12/21 SOA announced that there would be a 2.5i Outback LL Bean wagon and a 2.5i Outback LL Bean Limited wagon added with standard NAVI.

    http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2007.html#overview

    Vehicles should be at dealers in late January.

    Bob
  • The Outback/Legacy head gasket problem appears to be far more widespread than Subaru is willing to admit. My former 2003 Outback needed a gasket replacement at 28K miles. She had Subaru approved coolant from the start, therefore, it was not a coolant problem as Subaru often states. Even after a gasket was replaced, I could hear a sound of gushing coolant upon engine start-up. Obviously, the new gasket was also leaking air somewhere. In addition to a gasket problem, a transmission had started to slip at 32K miles. One could hardly call such vehicle as a reliable.
    There is also a rumor circulating on the net that the much higher mechanical reliability ratings for the 2005+ Outback/Legacy had been linked to the fact that the Indiana plant had switched to using the Boxer engines manufactured in Japan, instead of getting them from the localUS Supplier.

    Cheers,

    Matroskin
  • Thanks for the reliability comments, folks.

    How do '06-07 outback seats fare in comfort for long trips? I usually make several 700 mile trips each year.

    My current Malibu seats, save for a too-low lumbar support, remain comfortable for hours at a stretch.

    Some reports I read remarked the Subaru seats were fine for short hauls, but didn't work all that well for long trips.

    Knowing this will help me decide on the next car, for which Subaru is being considered.
  • Hi: Would appreciate advice from owners of the 2007 outback station wagon 3.0 R L. L. Bean Edition who only use regular gasoline & not the premium. Do you notice any pings or knocks in the engine & is the full warranty still in effect if only regular gasoline is used. My wife loves the smooth ride but will look elseware if you feel regular gas won't do a good job with performance. Thanks for your advice. Scott :cry:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Neat, Bob. So now you can get a loaded up model with the base engine. I wonder if it will replace the 2.5i Limited? I like the two-tone and wood steering wheel touches, plus NAV.

    Also, wonder if it'll have VDC?

    -juice
  • I have had a new '07 Outback for about a month ~1100 miles. A rattle has started, and seems to have gotten worse, and seems to be from the back end. I tried to remove parts from the rear, one item at a time and couldn't find it. I now have it at the dealer and they have had it for three days. They think it may be the struts for the hatch door, but aren't convinced. Has anyone else had this problem fixed?
  • I, too, have a brand new 07 with a rattle in the rear. Haven't brought it back yet. I thought it might be the assemble for the center rear seatbelt (in the ceiling), but now I'm not sure. Others have suggested that the underside of the rear trunk door, which has a plastic edge, is the culprit. See Post 6470 in the Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagon Problems and Solutions listing or do a search in the Subaru Crew listings for rear rattle.

    Let us know if you come up with a solution.

    Martin

    P.S. If you have moisture in your front headlights like a couple of us with new 07s have reported, then we are in big trouble.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,576
    You too, huh? This does seem to be a common problem. Other folks have said that it is coming from the bottom of the lift gate, but I do not recall the exact means of resolution - basically just cushioning that area. The posts were recent though (within the last month?). Try doing a search. Mine also has this rattle (just noticed it for the first time this morning). It has been said that it is most apparent in cold temperatures.

    Does +15F count? Feels almost balmy warm here after -40 three days ago!
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • I have not noticed moisture in the headlights. I really hope that I'm not going to regret trading in my old '96 for this one! I'll update once I have more info from the dealer.
  • I did feel like it was mostly during cold temps (I'm in the SF Bay Area, so by cold I would say 40 degrees or less). I thought that maybe the sun on the car was causing it to not rattle, so that seems like somewhat of a pattern. I just wish the service dept would listen to me and use my investigations to help their own so I can get rid of the loaner.
  • I am just about to order a 2.5i limited wagon from carsdirect. I was speaking with my local dealership though, and they told me that they were just recently notified that production on the 2007 is being discontinued, and production will only be on the 2008. Has anyone else heard this? I am going to contact headquarters tomorrow, but this is concerning, as I'm wondering if there may be something wrong with the 07 models. I'm now hesitant to proceed with the order.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    No issues, but production is ramping down as the 08 is a refreshed front and rear fascias and interiors. 08s will be shipping come spring so I'd imagine that the 07s will start to disappear soon.

    -mike
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