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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    re: think the catalytic converter in the front needs to be replaced.
    What were the starting elements for this conclusion?
    Yes there are 2 cats.
    Leak codes for EVAP system are quite common.....and they come and go for no reason...anyway, check all hoses to the evap can and solenoid valve on right fender and keep fuel fill cap tight.
  • sue45sue45 Posts: 7
    Have had the car for the last 4 years, it is nothing compared to what it used to be. The car is started without the hold light on. We are in the process of checking your other list of things to try. Not a lot of time to spend on it, and have not driven it for awhile :cry:
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    I did not go back to see previous posts...a little bit tedious...but..
    - My fist suspicion is still about belt/cam timing....may be it was double checked, may be not... but I would not go investigating a lot of other possible factors unless I'm 100% positively categorically sure this item is OK.....
  • HI UNDUE your Negative BATTERY CABLE (BLACK) for 10 mins, then put it back on..this should erase your CHECK ENGINE LITE that si on..you will have to reset your clock inside the car..good luck
  • HELLO RAN
    I believe this was a RECALL by KIA ..you can check this at www.car.com (think they list that recall there)..
    2 connectors go to YOUR COIL PACKS..Kia says C123 and C124 CONNECTORS come loose from engine vibration and make this car stall and run rough..you can wire tie them at both ends..but I taped mine REALLY tight with ELECTRICAL wire so the connectors would NOt come loose again..KIA should replace these for free if you can find the recall info.
    These (connector) wires are connected to a RED and WHITE wires(inside the connector) that fire your coils..GOOD LUCK! Let me know how things go ~
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    onejule wrote:
    I think the catalytic converter in the front needs to be replaced. A mechanic in my church will do the work for free, only $200 for the part. Does anyone know, the repair shop told me theres a front catalytic converter and a rear one?

    Here is one
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-02-kia-sportage-manifold-catalytic-converter-u- pper_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33629QQihZ001QQitemZ110229830518QQrdZ1QQsspagena- meZWDVW

    HOwever, check this photo
    http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg246/avigex/frontcat.jpg
    as it seems some come with the front pipe, others not....
  • onejuleonejule Posts: 4
    Your awesome, thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • dan133dan133 Posts: 2
    Hello... I'm planning on buying a 2002 sportage (2.0--manual trans--4x4--4dr 50000miles on it.) I've been reading the posts in the forum & beginning to wonder if its a good idea or not. Would like to know if some of you could tell me some specifics to look for before i finalize the sale, & would you buy one again?? I have an appointment to look at it again tomorrow nite. I have looked it over once, & driven it & I liked it. I noted the smell of antifreeze with the hood up standing in front of it. Also heard antifreeze circulating for about 15 seconds after shutting off the engine. I noted the temp gauge reading was exactlt in the middle while driving. I intend on using this as a daily driver & to tow behind my motorhome once in a while. I appreciate any info & advice. THANKS
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Depends on price.
    ALthough head gaskets failure is not a common issue with that engine, some cases are reported and what you mentioned trigs my caution.....At least, I'd fill the radiator to the rim when cold, leave cap off then run the engine and look for bubbles coming out the rad ..some lost "air" bubbles might escape at first...but if a continuous supply of bubbles come, that means exhaust invasion and a blown head gasket.
    Also, check for fluctuating temp needle when you run the car on the road, and for continuous heat output form the heater. Random heater output (turns cold, then warm...might be accompanied by borborythms) is sign of blown gasket.
    Other than that, there is the common issue of front hubs going haywire, but this is easy to solve for 200$ ...a common problem that is not a no-no.
    ..and the little beast is fun to drive....specially with a manual...
  • dan133dan133 Posts: 2
    Thank you. I will follow your advice & check the head gasket. The selling price will probably be $5000. I will most likely install manual hubs. Got a lot of good info just reading the posts in this forum. You're right....it is fun to drive. My wife even liked driving it & she hasn't driven a manual in 25 yrs.
  • sue45sue45 Posts: 7
    The timing belt was replaced about 1mth ago, when we were trying to figure out the problem. It works well for a a few miles and then starts doing the same thing again. It is like it has a bug, works well then doesn't work well and then doesn't. It was put on the computer and it came up the 02 sensor and throttle position sensor but can't really get a decent reading because of the issue it has.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    It was put on the computer and it came up the 02 sensor and throttle position sensor

    TPS makes sense. THis is not an expensive item and it is easy to change. I would not dismiss that indication. Failed TPS will cause jerk and buck....Pay attention to connectors.
    O2 will have effect once car it up to temperature..because it is out of the loop when cold. It depends which code: hi or lo O2 readings can be caused by other factors, like failed injectors, as well as O2 sensor and connectors. O2 heater code is a problem with the sensor itself or connectors.
  • marika1marika1 Posts: 7
    I have a 2001 Kia Sportage. I had the car in the shop in January, 2008 (about 35 days ago) and had the wheel hubs, front left axel, and a few other things replaced as the front wheel was making a funny whistling sound. After spending $1700.00 I was driving my car and put the car into 4 Wheel Drive before leaving my driveway. It was the first time I put the 4 Wheel on since picking the car up from the shop. About 3 miles later, the transfer case exploded and cut the transmission line. I would like to know if anyone has every experienced or heard of such a thing. I was told that somehow the 4 wheel drive was jammed which caused such a pressure that the tranfer case exploded. I'd like to know if this "explosion" may have resulted from the repairs that were done in January. I was also told that only a four wheel drive axel can be put on my car, however when I review my bill from January, it states a "A.W. Drive Axel" was put on my car. Does this sound right?? Any information relating to this problem would be great!!!
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    This car cannot physically be fitted with anything else than what duplicates the original. So whatever the labelling, what was installed is not the cause of your problem.
    THe most ..and, in fact, the only probable cause for overtorquing the transfer case is running on dry pavement with the 4WD engaged. THis 4x4 is labelled "part time 4WD" and MUST NEVER ..never never...be run on asphalt in 4x4 because it has no differential between front and rear drive shafts and any difference in front and rear wheel speed (like when turning) will overstress the transfer case with the eventual result you describe.
    Sorry that happens after $1700.
    Look for salvage yards for a replacement T-case...even e-bay, may be,...and come back for further info as you wish. Please also state what type of new hubs were installed as there are special precautions in using the auto-mechanical type for the sake of the hubs themselves (as opposed to the original vacuum type).
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Now....may be procure more details on the "nature" of the explosion (is the case cracked and oil spliled out) and what do you describe as a "cutting the transmission line".
  • freds6freds6 Posts: 2
    I have a KIA Sportage 2005 4WD. I don't know if the term is correct, but the small orange light just above the headlight and to the right is burned out. This is the light that lights up when going to first click on the headlight switch.

    I looked in thinking I can change a simple light bulb. WRONG! The area is so packed with stuff that I can't even identify where the connector or housing is for this light. I sure don't want to go to a dealer and spend $40 or more just to replace a light bulb.

    Can anyone help? PLEASE....
  • marika1marika1 Posts: 7
    Hi, thanks so much for the reply. I can assure you that the vehicle was put in four wheel drive during a snow storm. roads were totally snow covered. I was told by the mechanic that when the car was put into four wheel drive something jammed it which caused the transfer case to explode. (we only made it a couple of miles before it exploded) You mentioned something about the hubs being replaced. The two front wheel hubs were replaced (XDL OKO1A3320xB), along with the front left axel and shaft, wheel bearings. If you have any further information which might be helpful, that would be great. Thanks so much for your time.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ....something jammed....??
    ..if that happened right after the wheel bearing change, I could have suspected the wheel bearing was adjusted too tight..and that can cause a wheel bearing to seize, I've seen it happen... but this is not dependant of running in 4WD..so it should have occurred before...
    ....just confirm nothing was changed in the front differerential...($1700....that must cover a lot of parts...???_...I can't imagine someone might have replaced the differential with the wrong ratio....which would be relevant of causing havoc as soon as 4WD is engaged...but this would be almost not imaginable....(.I'm just thinking out loud...)
    ..is it possible the front driving shaft (between t-case and differential) got loose ?
    DO you use oversize tires?...

    Can you take photos of the underneath?
    ..??? part number for the hubs are unknown to me...usually the original hubs are changed to Warn auto-mechanical, which involve changing the spindle nuts..the one that keep the bearing properly tight..so this info can be related ..as the spindle nut has to be blocked by a key: if the key was forgotten, there is a possibility that engaging the 4WD would force the spindle nut on right side ...to get tighter and seize the bearing...this is speculation at this point, but I would certainly check if the spindle nut key was properly installed....you should then have felt a sudden braking effect as the bearing seized...

    Other than that....I'm left with a freak incident....but... that occurred after work was performed on these components..of course, it leads to thinking there is some connection.....an unwanted number of aircraft accidents or incidents occur just after the plane went through maintenance....so......
    At this moment, can you move the vehicle ?
    What is the condition of the t-case? is it visibly cracked ?
    IN any case, keep us informed of the development...
    ..
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Sportage 2005..small orange light just above the headlight and to the right is burned out.
    YOu have to take the headlight cluster out to change that bulb. Check this out that I picked up from KIa website.
    You can register at www.kiatechinfo.com and browse through and download almost anything about your car.
  • freds6freds6 Posts: 2
    Thank you very much for the assist. It is appreciated.
  • marika1marika1 Posts: 7
    Well I had an "expert" do a report on my car. He took pictures, etc and stated that the damage was not as a result of the work that was done on my vehicle and that it was a failed U-joint which had apparently dried out and corroded and literally snapped. The "commercial" car centre I initially took my vehicle to in January 2008 told me they did a report card on my car and a U-joint was never mentioned to me as needing to be replaced. Would this be something that would have been apparent when working on my car in January. I'm told now that I need a new transfer case assembly and front drive shaft. Your comments are very much appreciated. Thanks so much
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    it was a failed U-joint
    ..so, it was indeed possible the front driving shaft (between t-case and differential) got loose !
    ....obviously at the differential ! I can imagine the thump that followed and the result is consequential. But I have just changed a U-joint on that driving shaft 2 months ago, and cannot imagine it would "break" by itself, rust or anything else. ...it it broke, that means one part is still BOLTED to the differential.....is it? Hard to speculate from here, but I'd like to see the photos...
    My U-joint had given sign of fatigue a L O N G time ago, vibrations and noise when in 4WD...and since it was used only for brief episodes, I would not care much but around last Christmas, it became really scary and the vibration was intolerable an potentially a risk for other components and with winter just beginning, then I changed it....all this just to signal it does not come "on a sudden".....Of course, when installing the driving shaft back on the car, I made sure all bolts were properly tightened.....
  • marika1marika1 Posts: 7
    Thanks for your response. What I was wondering though, is the U-Joint something that would have been visible during the work they performed. Would they have had to see that this U-joint was corroded and ready to snap. Here is what they did do the car: Install left front axel, shalf, wheel bearings, wheel hubs, remove left front steering knuckle, replace needle bearing for input shaft, replace seals. replace left axel shaft, replace left innter and outer bearing, replace updated 4WD hub assemblies. They also told me that when I complete this work, the car would be fine for the next 10 years (which is apparently not the case). I have the photos on my computer but I am not sure how to add them to this reply. Do you have a separate email that I could email them to??">
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    It is possible they did not peek to that area. What surprises me more is that you had no previous signs of that condition...unless you did not engage 4WD for years... e-mail photos at unami_1@hotmail.com
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,810
    If you set up your CarSpace page, you can post the photos in an Album there. Then we can all look at them.

    Click on the My CarSpace tab up top to get started. It's all free btw.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    pictures:
    pic1
    pic2
    pic3
    pic4
    ...wow.. it did snap off with a bang....even the bracket was torn off the sub frame...
    ...
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ...but...I'm still curious about the other end of the driving shaft....the one that connects to the differential...did you take a photo of tht end..and differential ? Was one section of the driving shaft still attached to the differential ?..... I wonder if it is possible that the "snap" we see in the pictures occured rather as a consequence of another failure ...In fact, the extent of the damage would rather indicate the shaft first got loose from the differnetial end, fell down, planted in some road obstacle, then jacked the t-case up explaining the torn off frame bracket and the case extended upwards..then snapped as it went past 90° vertical
    ....where was the driving shaft after the car stopped ? ANd in how many pieces? It shows as assembled in this picture,..image
    .were the two parts put together after the fact....? May be I'm "paranoid"...but if all of it was found on the ground, in 1 or in 2 separate parts, it did separate from the differential first...
    THis is just such an unusual event ......the few times I saw that..on other cars..it was because one end got loose for the bolts had fallen...I think is almost impossible it "snapped" like that just on engine torque...and anyway, just snapping at that end should not have caused much damage...
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Dave Scott, who has access to my photo bank on another forum , without reading my comments, also said
    ".....it looks like the driveshaft got pushed back into the t-case"
    confirming the interpretation that the shaft separated at the differential first....
    I think the event is not a "freak"....
  • marika1marika1 Posts: 7
    Thanks so much for your input. So how should I handle this when I go to the car shop. What approach should I take. The car was used in 4WD in December before I took it into the shop in January and I did not have any problems with the 4WD. I took the car into the shop because of the noises it was making in the front wheel which resulted in all the work that was done. My belief is that since this was the first time the 4WD was used since picking up the car, it has to be related. Also, my Kia only has 105,000.00 kms. on it. Its my baby - any advise on how to approach the mechanics who worked on my car would be gratefully appreciated. I think you guys are awesome!!!
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    My view.comes from too far away , but some independant knowledgeable person would confirm the facts ..: some negligence is involved in the condition of the driving shaft after the $1700 repair. THe shaft just cannot just have snapped from the T-case end AND cause that damage: if it had snapped like that, it would have fallen to the ground, trailing, would have been out of the way and then unable to cause that damage. It did separate from the other end.

    If you intent to ask for some compenstion for this damage that should not have occured after a $1700 repair, you must be able to answer to these questions:

    - was the whole driving shaft on the ground after the "incident" ? (I'm quite sure it was, but you have to remember it as a fact you verified yourself or somone else can testify)

    -had the driving shaft been removed from the differential to perform the repairs in the front ? (implying it can have been installed back with bolts improperly tightened)

    Can you take a picture of the OTHER end of the driving shaft and the differential flange that normally connects to the driving shaft ?
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