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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair

18911131436

Comments

  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    Car was running very rough, changed plugs and coils now will only turn over, will not start. I know the negative battery cable needs to be replaced, but it will try to start.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Car was running very rough, changed plugs and coils now will only turn over, will not start.

    Were any codes read before changing all of that? Working blind is costly. Better test than guess. If nothing else was modified (all that was disconneceted was reconnected, coils, IAC valve, hoses...) ...then is there any doubt about quality of parts installed..were coils new or salvage?...
    Please provide any other relevant info that would procure a clue...
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    these codes where erad

    P1624
    P0326
    P0171
    P1115
    P0300
    P0303
    P1505
    P0130
    recently changed valve cover gasket and we bought the knock sensor but have not put it on because I cannot find it on the car, the coild where new.
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    Is there a sensor that will causes the coils to fire that may be malfunctioning.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Generic codes
    P0130 O2 sensor Short in Front O2 sensor wiring between C211-11 and C211-12.
    Misplaced, bent, loose or corroded connector terminals.
    Faulty Front O2 sensor.

    P0300 303 various misfire/misfire plug 3 : this plug is fed by a wire from the front coil. Were the wires to 1 and 3 changed too with the coils? This little piece of wire is able to cause problems. 't was a problem with mine last summer.

    P0171 lean (caused by lots of possible factors..possibly by the faulty O2 sensor)
    P0326 knock Open or short to GND between Knock Sensor and ECM terminal #70.
    Source of high resistance between Knock Sensor and ECM terminal #70.
    Faulty Knock Sensor.

    Proprietary codes
    P1624 signal request
    P1115 loss of coolant temperature signal Short to GND or B+ between ECM and TCM on ECT line.
    Open between ECM and TCM on ECT line.

    P1505 idle control Open or high resistance between Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) and ECM.
    Short to B+ or GND between IAC and ECM.
    Faulty IAC.

    Were these the codes BEFORE changes were made? or is this a recent code check (after initial codes were cleared) ?

    There seems to be loss of contact with a lot of sensors and actuators.. This car is known for fualty plugs, corrosion, to the point that even KIA advises to solder wires directly to sensors..but I do not like that; I'd check and clean and test all connections to sensors mentioned; MAF, IAC valve should be checked for continuity. IAC is not prone to failure, but can be dirty too.
    Was this car used off road and run across rivers or mud ponds? (there are nice (??) videos of this on the web) ..or used in areas where salt is used in winter ?
    Ahh..and knock sensor is here image but does not cause starting problems. Priority is lead to plug 3 and proper IAC valve operation, and connecetor to MAF.

    If you go back to spark plugs, pull #1 wire and insert a spare spark plug and start to see if you have spark....otherwire you'll never know.
    Yes, failed Crank Position Sensor will impair spark...but usually it gives advance signs..like starts easily, then stops once engine warm...will restart once cold...
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    these where read after Hold light started flashing, before plugs, wires, and coils where changed but after gasket was changed. We found out gasket needed changing when we went to change plugs and found one with oil, so gasket and plugs where changed then, had the codes read and the guy suggested resetting computer by unhooking battery, we did that and the car ran perfectly, no issues or lights or anything for about 2 days, then lights came CEL and Hold came back on, started running bad again and it would not start . That is when the coils and new plugs and wires where replaced, again for the plugs. Still nothing and we cannot have it read again because we cannot get it anywhere.

    no it was only driven on plain ole roads.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Valve cover gasket issue is common. Changed mine also last summer.
    NOw, investigation: just to be sure, I'd pull the IAC valve out and clean it. Stuck IAC valve was mentioned in a lot of Sportage forums as causing rough idle and starting problems...and it can cause lean mixture code too. Check all hoses and connection around purge valve front right fender....and again, check all sensor connectors for corrosion....
    What is your operation environment at this time? Snow?
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    operating conditions??? I am in Texas and it is 75 here, no rough conditions.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    75°F....I envy you. I used to love winter....way too long now.
    There are code readers at less than $100 and I think they may save more than their price by cutting blind investigation. reading the numbers as soon as they come can help...and some numbers have no incidence on operational availability so it cuts anxiety.
    But...a lot of troubles also go without generating any codes....and some other codes are their consequence, not their cause.
    Whatever you find, please report: everyone learns from the other here .
    I'd still be tempted to pull a plug wire and see for spark....and make a fuel pressure test on the fuel rail (42-45 psi) : spark and fuel are a must...and this issue must be cleared before anything else. I built a fuel pressure tester with an a/c refilling kit and water pump pressure gauge. THe check ball must be taken out of the connector . THe schrader valve for a/c is same as fuel rail.
    image
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    The car does have fire just do not know if it has gas. What should we do now???
  • My 99 kia sportage has ran great for the first few months after purchasing it, but recently the Hold Light has come on, and it wont go off. My car wont shift out of low gear, so I cannot drive it. Im on a tight budget and my dad is willing to do the work if he knows where to start. Hes tried finding a repair manual and no one has them! Any suggestions on the hold light?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ..is the HOLD light ON steady or flashing ? ( this question is in addition to my other question about using the little button on the shifter... :) ) ...but now..you mean it will not go out of LOW ?....When in HOLD, normally, (using the little button), it starts in 2nd and will shift to 3rd but at a much higher RPM.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    The car does have fire just do not know if it has gas. What should we do now???
    ....short of testing fuel rail pressure.....you can buy a spray can of starter fluid and use it while trying to start...
    DO you hear the fuel pump "primer" 2 sec buzz when you trun the key to ON? (to help hearing it, flip the rear seat and have someone listen near the trap under rear right seat.
  • The hold light is flashing. Not sure what that means compared to it being on steady? Also, I did try the button on the shifter. Haha. Its just stuck! And when i drive, it will go fine until about 40 mph then it sounds like its trying to shift into a higher gear to go faster, but it cant get there. It goes maybe 45 mph max?
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    Ok I'M frustated did not hear no buzz for 2 secs so took hoses off of pump and turned key on and nothing happen so tried to start with hoses off and barely had any gas so i changed pump and strainer. After I changed pump still nothing when u turn key on and barely any gas when u try to start but give gas when try to start plenty of pressure. But car will not even try to start when everything back together. I did spray some stater fluid direct to injectors and seem to try to start but nothing so I sprayed a little more and nothing just turn over. Please any thought?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ....hoses off of pump and turned key on and nothing happen...
    It is certain car will never start if fuel is not delivered, First when pump does not "buzz" is testing for 12v supply..this comes from relay under hood:
    image
    There are 2 identical relays, abd they can be switched one for the other..but both are essential for engine to start...first try just to remove them and replug them. CHeck fuses in box.
    COrrosion and ground connections (under battery tray) are a common problem.
    12V could be supplied direct to fuel pump for a test.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    The hold light is flashing. Not sure what that means compared to it being on steady?
    Steady HOLD is when you use the button on shifter to disable overdrive(4th).
    Flashing HOLD mean there is a problem and error codes are stored.
    is the Check Engine Light ON?..probably; arrange for reading the codes. Autozone read them for free. Copy the code numbers .

    Have you checked the sensors near thermostat as suggested by GaryInOz at 4x4?
  • Thank you so much for the info about auto zone. We replaced the sensors near the thermostat. no luck. We got the codes read after. These came up
    P0507
    P1623
    P1795
    any ideas? Thanks
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Ok I read you have got the code meaning by Axe at 4x4. But you can get all the info about that by yourself by registering at kiatechinfo No one has proprietary rights to that info :D
    That is free and you will have access to all the codes (DTC) . their meaning and the areas of concern that might be inspected for the cause. DO not take ALL the possibilities as components you must change: tests must be made to verify if the mentioned component is the actual culprit.It happens that connectors to the components are corroded and just need cleaning, a common problem with Sportage. .
  • kaz32kaz32 Posts: 1
    Please help, I have had my Kia for 4 years and never had any trouble till tonight :cry:
    When I break the warning light comes on followed by the ABS and then goes off when I pull away
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