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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ..switch issue, most probably main driver switch..or one conductor to the door . check diagram
    Pull passenger witch, disconnect wire bundle, check for solid ground contact at 3 and 6 of wire bundle. If one fails, problem is with driver switch.
    ...
  • jhl1jhl1 Posts: 10
    The injectors have no signal. The garage put a new fuel pump in it,no change. They put a different computer in it,no change. Checked fuses and relays, all seem ok. Any help email me jluce74@hotmail.com Thanks,Jason
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Hi all i had wrote a post sometime ago about how my headlights,dashlights (also the lights around the gas and temp guage work whentey want) and domelight all flicker when i drive my car. I was just wonderinig if anyone has had the same problem and if so how did you correct it? Any help would be great.
  • jasinskijasinski Posts: 9
    i had a lot of stuff messin up on mine to (read blog jasinski)there are 2 wire harnesses under pass. side dash way up there. I took my fender off and pulled boot from the body pull out wires and check the harnesses for IGS i had 3 bad wires cut in new wires every thing works great. fenders are easy to remove napa has clips if any break. :)
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Just this diagram to show what is involved....including cam sensor....
    Check cam sensor connector, ground, +12V with key ON on all injectors green wire.
    image
  • jhl1jhl1 Posts: 10
    We checked the power and we have +12v with the key on and off. The injectors wont open to start. The mechanic would like to talk to you if possible on the phone.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    we have +12v with the key on and off
    ??? you mean on the green wire of the injectors?...THis should be dead with key off....

    At this time, I have personnally had no problem of that type,. so this info is strictly based on the diagrams. Some measurements can lead to confusion as measuring voltage on a disconnected socket without any load can measure a stray voltage, specially with electronics, that would collapse as soon as a load is connected. So I suggest you make a connection on one of the green wires, and use it to feed a test lamp, the other side of the lamp to ground, then try key ON and OFF. YOu can use a spare parking bulb as a test light, not a stop lamp as their current is much larger and the injector drivers are designed for just 1 amp.
  • jhl1jhl1 Posts: 10
    When the relay is plugged in the green wire is 12v with the key off & the black wire with white stripe is the same way. The mechanic changed the relay and no difference.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Which relay?
    UNplug the MAIN relay for a test or pull out MAIN fuse out; and check those diagrams...specific to 2001 (the former one was 2000, most similar except BK/W wire .....

    Black/white is feed to idle air control motor and should also be OFF with key off.

    +12V to injectors and dile control comes from the main relay, not the F.P. relay. But if MAIN relay is frozen ON, then the F.P. relay will also be ON all the time. Since you have another relay available, replace the MAIN relay for a test.
    Someone had a quite similar problem recently on this or another forum, However this condition as such would not stop the car from starting....but it would drain the battery if car was left alone for some time.

    http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg246/avigex/relays2001.gif
    http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg246/avigex/injectors2001.gif

    CHeck under the seat for traces of water to the computer. The MAIN relay always has 12V on one side of its coil, and the other side of coil is grounded at KEY ON by the computer (located lower right side trim panel below the instrument panel, on the passenger side of the vehicle).
  • jhl1jhl1 Posts: 10
    We have 12v to all the injectors now but no ground signal when cranking the motor over. ?????????
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ...the grounding by the computer happens by very short impulses, except at KEY ON where "primer" is 1-2 sec.
    Cam sensor is part of the injection circuit, and has been suggested several times in similar cases, but I can't remember if one came with a definite solution saying that "the cam sensor was the culprit"....
    It is not clearly documented with this engine, but in my other car, a faulty cam sensor will just cause "random" injection and the car will run anyway, but then , it could give a "running rough" feeling....
    But this would pop a code, anyway....
    Check al connectors....and another forum member had found broken/shorted wires at the firewall near the computer .
  • jhl1jhl1 Posts: 10
    The mechanic checked all wires including the wheel well area and all were good. He still has no ground signal to the injectors. I'll email you some info.
  • cwoodardcwoodard Posts: 6
    I have had the prolem at various times with my 98 kia.... What seemed to cause the problem is the wiring coming out the side of the door was getting grimped or bunched up somehow? I could straighten out the wiring and the window would work fine. Its been just a few times it has happened and I have not had to fix anything. Hopefully the same will work for your daughter.
  • I was driving home and it decided to just quit. my husband is trouble shooting to find out whats wrong. we cant get a repair manual. does anyone know where we can get a good repair manual or help trouble shooting our problem. my husband has repaired all of our vehicles over the years but this is different.

    if you can truly help please email me. tracieeo@bellsouth.net :sick:
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    This may help: Online Repair Manuals

    if you can truly help please email me...

    That would deprive others of valuable information - let's keep the discussion here! :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • jhl1jhl1 Posts: 10
    Good luck. My mechanic who is a 30 year master tech can't figure out the one we got. We have changed several items, checked wires, changed the computer and it still won't run. We found a seller on ebay who is from Canada that sells CD rom disc for Kia Sportages and my mechanic says it is a good disc.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Register to www.kiatechinfo.com and you will have most of what you need, diagrams, codes, repair man uals.
    Abot you engine "quitting", what is mileage? above 65,000 miles, the timing belt is an almost mandatory maintenance item, and when the belt quits, that's just it: car stays there, and this is a very common occurrence.
    If you meet or exceed above conditions, pull front timing belt cover and check belt.
  • jhl1jhl1 Posts: 10
    Ok we are ready to give up. We just changed the cam sensor and no help. We still have no signal to the injectors from the computer. Anyone that has any ideas my mechanic would like to talk to you. He has Verizon Wireless for his cellphone carrier (free call verizon to verizon) or his home/shop phone. Let me know if you can talk to him. We are stuck.
  • sheri664sheri664 Posts: 2
    Hi there,

    I know how frustrating working on KIA's can be. They are rather difficult to work on. Just in case you haven't tried already, have you contacted KIA directly for help? I know the dealerships want to charge and arm and a leg, so you might want to try KIA directly. Also, craigslist has been informative for me. I don't know how much luck you will have with your situation, but it might be worth the effort.
    They make these cars almost impossible for one to work on. I have a 2002 KIA Sportage, and I regret the day I purchased it. It's been nothing but one big headache, and you can't even do simple repairs, like for example, give a tune up because you need a special "tool". I've always had to take it in, even for this simple repair.

    I wish you luck, and I am sorry this has happened to you.

    P.S. You may get more takers, if you post on craiglist. It doesn't seem like this website gets as much activity as you would think it would.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    repeat: What is mileage? Have you checked the timing belt?
  • Hey all! I have a 2000 Sportage 4x2 manual tranny, with 58000 mi and since I purchased the car new, I've been getting 300 miles/ tank. Lately, the fuel efficiency has dropped off to 175 mi/tank. I have tuned it up, new plugs, air and fuel filters, oil and filter change (10w40 Valvoline) and checked the tire pressure. There are no codes or check engine lights displayed. I can't figure this out. Any suggestions? :P
  • bgrolichbgrolich Posts: 2
    Just bought a 2000 Kia Sportage. The 4x4 does not work. I replaced all vacume lines because they were cracked and still no 4x4. Now what?
  • jhl1jhl1 Posts: 10
    My post went under the died in traffic one oops. We still have no signal to the injectors. Changed the cam sensor and no help. Check wires and all good. Changed crank sensor and no help. Timing belt is good and timing is ok. Changed relays and no help. Changed the computer and no help. Put a new fuel pump in it and no help. Still no signal to the injectors to make them work.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Check for proper operation of the vacuum solenoid : with key ON and engine not running, see if you can hear the solenoid "click" when plugging and unplugging the electrical connector. (shown disconnected in picture)
    image
    Then start and let the engine run, then unplug and check "vacuum from reserve" hose, and then if OK plug back and check the "vacuum to hubs" port when 4WD is applied and 4WD light is ON.
    If no vacuum, then connect direct "vacuum from reserve" to "vacuum to hubs" using small piece of plastic tubing.
    IF hubs still do not apply, hubs are shot....a common occurrence ..or the bearing seals are shot... THese hubs do not wotk well in cold climates anyway. Best Change for Warn manual or autos...too bad because the vacuum are the most convenient and provide seamless operation ..when they work.
  • Any body out there know how to replace the front window motors on a 2000 Kia Sportage..and where the best place to find them...????...I pulled the front panels off and got the driver side to work...it has a loose wire somewhere..smacking the driver door will get it to roll up..that is until I hit a big bump again and it will stop working again...now the passenger side will roll down but not up...so now its down and I can't get it to roll up at all...so I have the motor loose, but it is still connected to the cables..how do you get the cables off of the motors...????...any photos would be helpful...I can't find a repair manual anywhere...somebody said there is one online but I can't find it...help....Thanks for any help you guys can send my way....Rick
  • dani73dani73 Posts: 2
    Hi everyone,
    I am about to start test driving cars this week. The kia sportage is high on my list of cars I'm interested in. I had a mechanic to tell me they have lots of problems, the parts are expensive & can only be obtained from the factory, and that his customers with kias have not had much luck getting the company to honor their warranties. What can ya'll tell me about this? Thanks!
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    What year models are you considering? Pre 2002 do have some drawbacks..but people either like or hate them anyway...and they are true little trucks
    Newer models are Hyundai, in fact, copycat of Tuckson, and are car based; they were rated high recently in COnsumers Report.
  • dani73dani73 Posts: 2
    I'll probably look at 2007 & 2008 sportages. I'm also going to check out Dodge Caliber, Jeep Compass, Toyota RAV4 & Hyundai Tuscon (which looks to be almost the same as Sportage). Any advice?
  • Hi, did you ever find that manual? I need one desperately! :cry:
  • ebennetebennet Posts: 2
    Problem: If I'm driving with the AC on, after an hour the air from the vents becomes less and less cool until it is essentially the same temp as the air in the car. Miserable in humid weather! I hit the AC button and let just the fan run for 10-15 minutes, then hit the AC button again (to turn it on), and the air blasts out cold! It stays cold for 20-30 minutes, and then the "coolness" fades again. And so it goes. One dealer (when I was on the road) replaced the AC motor (which was clogged with ice). Local dealership has said a number of things, including "It's a flaw in the vehicle," "It can't be fixed," "We might be able to fix it, but we'd have to take out the dash and can't guarantee...." Does anybody know what's going on? Should I push the issue? Help! FYI, this is my first forum post ever, on any site. :)
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