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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair

191012141536

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  • My 99 Sportage is finally giving up on me. My check engine light has came on before and I fixed the car with a tune up. Now the check engine light is flashing. I have changed spark plugs, wires, and a coil pack. I still have same problem... Misfire on cylinder 4. Idles really rough when sitting and gets horrible gas mileage. Does anyone have any suggestions. I am out of solutions.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    First check fluid level in brake reservoir; fill up as necessary.
    IF this does not correct the problem, provoque auto adjustment or rear brakes in the following manner:
    find a place where you can back-up 10-15 feet without danger.
    Engage in reverse, then accelerate fast then brake hard to a stop
    FOrward where you were and repeat 10 times. After this operation, you will probably feel the brake pedal travel has shortened.
    Auto adjust for rear brakes operates in backward only and if brake is always used softly in reverse, brakes do not adjust and take more and more travel to apply and while front pads are always tight, it takes more travel to apply the rear and this mismatch causes BRAKE light to come ON"
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    I have changed ...a coil pack.
    A few "simple" checks first:
    Confirm you have changed the rear coil pack..
    Also..confirm which light is flashing: CEL or HOLD ?
    Was there any oil on plug 4?
    CHeck gas filler cap is tight and all hoses to purge tank (front of battery) are OK.
    CHeck that all hoses that connect ot top of fuel tank are OK (remove cover under rear right seat).
    Remove and clean Idle Air COntrol valve
    Measure voltage when engine runs.14 to 14.5 volts desired.
    Misfire on cylinder 4. Idles really rough when sitting and gets horrible gas mileage
    ..I"d expect more codes..that sounds like improper fuel mixture. Can you check codes again? (MAF, O2..)
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    Ok should the fuel pump buzz when you first turn key because I hear nothing I have changed pump and both relays. When hoses are off of pump and you turn key barley any gas comes out but when you press pedal there is more pressure but no 45 psi. and also I tried to check connections under battery tray but how are you supposed to remove tray or get under tray to check.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Instead of looking for failed grounds, I'd run new grounds from battery to engine block and then to some body contact, say firewall. The info about grounds under battery is passed forward from another forum member, I've not checked that out myself.
    You say "when pressing pedal there is more pressure"....this implies the engine is running, right? ANd indeed the regulator senses vacuum and increases fuel pressure with depressing throttle.
    With the new pump you have, I'd look for other causes. Unhappily, this problem comes frequently and other than some that were solved with changing the fuel pump relay, other definitive causes have not been clearly reported.
    Did you feed the pump direct with 12V and listen to the sound it makes or the resulting fuel pressure? Do you have access to a fuel pressure gauge?
    I would also install a voltmeter to measure is 12V is applied to the fuel pump relay coil contacts : you need help to do that as it shoudl show for only 1 or 2 sec when first turning the key to ON. You must read it on the first try cause the computer will prevent repetitive primer to avoid flooding if key is turned to ON repetitively with too small a delay .

    FuelPumpCircuit
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    this circuit rather (was not able to edit the previous post):
    circuit99
    Notice pin numbers for the relay coil are not he same.... I'm not too sore which year was the other one..will check...means they changed relay type over the years.
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Hi i drive my 1999 kia sportage around town all the time and i have never had a problem with the temp gage going above half way. I took it on the freeway tonight and a few minutes into driving the gage went all the way to the H :sick: i then just turned the heat on and it lowered it a little and kept it stable until i was able to get back home. I am just wondering if this could be the thermostat and if so howw do i go about changing it. I am used to Hondas so i have no idea where it even is on my kia. Any help would be great thanks..
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Depends in which environment you are driving. Failure of fan clutch has been reported a number of times ...that would have more impact in hot weather, if A/C is used but much less on the open road as windstream is generally enough to control temperature. Remember that DEF and HEAT/DEF positions on the heater trig the A/C ON without asking you for the permission.
    Thermostat is here:
    image
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok i have another quick question how many fans are supposed to be infront of the radiator. as i am looking and i only have one, and when i turn the air conditioner on it works fine (is that the same fan that would be cooling my car off?) I am so confused as i know with teh civics it was usually just the thermostat and it was an easy fix. Also i was wondering if you had a cure for my lights, my headlights as well as the lights inside my car are pulsating is there anything i can do to fix that? I thought i had seen someone with the similair problem on here but i was unable to find the post.. I just want to say i really appriciate all the help you are giving me on this car..
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    THere is one electric fan ahead of the radiator, and the clutch fan between engine and rad. THe electric fan is turned on with the A/C....I have not checked if it would kick ON at a given coolant temperature even without the A/C.

    Several owners have replaced the clutch fan with an electric fan when they figured out the clutch was shot..

    THe "pulsating" headlights let me think the alternator belt is slipping....can you have a helper make a real time voltage measurement when that happens? (possibly from the lighter plug). WHen that occurs, what happens if you turn the heater blower off?
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok i just got back from driving the car and the fan was running and the temp gauge actually went to hot just driving around town. I am assuming that would be the thermostat sticking.

    Now my next question would be what kind of instrument would i need to check the voltage? And in answer to your question about the heater when i turn it on they pulsate worse.
  • sue45sue45 Posts: 7
    I have a 2001 sportage, there is no power it feels like it is running out of gas. I have just replaced the air filter, coil, sparkplugs, timing belt, water pump, fuel filter and then had to change the battery. Could this be the fuel pump and if so is there a way to check prior to purchasing a new one.
    Thanks
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Ort102 wrote: Ok i just got back from driving the car and the fan was running and the temp gauge actually went to hot just driving around town. I am assuming that would be the thermostat sticking. Now my next question would be what kind of instrument would i need to check the voltage? And in answer to your question about the heater when i turn it on they pulsate worse.

    WHere do you live? What is the outside temperature? Yes begin by simply removing the thermostat....open, remove and close: this will make or break the thermostat hypothesis. There are other more severe causes that would keep the temp high even without a thermostat....like a blown head gasket...but it is not a common issue with the Sporty: there are a few cases, but not a common syndrome like the GM3.4

    OBviously your alternator does not deliver high amps and is overloaded by heavy demand....again I'd check alternator belt for wear and tightness. I think it slips. Otherwise, the built in regulator can be shot...go with the belt first. If it pulses like you say, then voltage goes up and down...and a common electrician multimeter , digital or needle type, 20$ range, will simply confirm....but then even the steady state voltage could be interesting if tightening (changing) the belt does not cure the problem. NOrmal voltage when engine runs should be 14.1 - 14.7
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    sue45 wrote:
    I have a 2001 sportage, there is no power it feels like it is running out of gas. I have just replaced the air filter, coil, sparkplugs, timing belt, water pump, fuel filter and then had to change the battery. Could this be the fuel pump and if so is there a way to check prior to purchasing a new one.

    ...had to change the battery....??? why?
    WHen voltage runs low (for alternator problem) engine starts being erratic : injectors do not fire, spark is poor, ..and battery runs down. Test voltage (14.2-14.7)
    (if that was original battery....it was expected death).

    Testing for fuel pressure at fuel rail (40 psi) will make the point about fuel pump....
    don't change the fuel pump just for testing!

    There have been cases of blocked catalyser....again do not change a catalyser just for testing....disconnect exhaust and run a test with a lot of noise....(That's fun)...
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    I live in ohio and it was actually in theh 40's last night when it started. then today the temp has dropped drastically and is expected to drop more tomorrow. How would i know if the head gasket was blown? I also went to the part store and bought a new thermostat however, i have to wait til tomorrow to replace it due to the fact they did not have the gasket in.
    I will also tomorrow check on the belt and see if it is loose, if it is is there any certain torque it needs to be set at or should i just tighten it? The as soon as i can get my hands on a multimeter i will check the voltage. now would i stick both the pos and neg in the cig lighter or just the positive?
    Thanks again
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    THe positive probe on center of lighter plug, the negative to any metal part of the body, including the outside ring of the lighter plug. Of course, you can test direct on the battery posts .
    BLown gasket will show other signs: heater will provide sporadic heat, temp needle will fluctuate, steaming, having to top off the radiator and coolant tank from time to time....
    Removing the radiator cap and running engine after topping off the rad if necessary could show gaz bubbles coming out (that is exhaust leaking into the cooling system). A few "air" bubbles to begin with is not a concern but a gasket leak can give a regular outpour of bubbles.
  • sue45sue45 Posts: 7
    The battery was approx a year old but had to be replaces because it went dead and it was -33 and froze, prior to that happening the battery was fine. Do you know if there is a shrader valve on the fuel rail.
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Hi i have one more question i replaced the thermostat today and i noticed that there was coolant leaking from the casing before i actually replaced it. Now my question would be when i start the car with the radiator cap off the water does not get sucked down. It actually shoots up real quick then just goes back to the original resting place. Also after driving the guage once again started shooting up towards the H, but was easier to regulate with the heater.What could this be?
    Thanks again stressed :sick: out kia owner
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    It actually shoots up real quick then just goes back to the original resting place

    I'm afraid it generates a gaz bubble taht escapes at start up then additional gaz can escape without showing bubbles as the level is down. Do that again but once it "goes back to original resting place", keep it running and top off to the rim with coolant to see if gas bubbles escape.

    DO you have coolant left in the reserve tank?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Do you know if there is a shrader valve on the fuel rail
    YOur question tells you know what is involved....I have NOT ckecked myself...just assumed there is one like my other car....I will try to locate it :confuse: and return....
    read this
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