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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • sue45sue45 Posts: 7
    We just changed the timing belt a couple of weeks ago at the same time we replaced everything else I mentioned. It did fix the problem of it having no power to go over 50 or 60 km per hour. It starts fine and idles fine, the issue is when you put it in gear it is really sluggish like it has no power until you get up to over 60km per hour. It is an automatic
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok so now i have anotgher problem :confuse: I drove to cleveland today which is aboutu 3 hours away and at about 90 miles into the trip the temp guage started to go up. So i turned on the heat it dropped back below half. then when i got off at my exit the guage shot all the way down below cold then started dancing around as i would accelerate and when i would come to a stop it would just drop again.. any ideas
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    the trip the temp guage started to go up.
    turned on the heat it dropped back below half.
    then ..the guage shot all the way down below cold then started dancing around
    when i would come to a stop it would just drop again.. any ideas

    That was one of symptoms I already described as associated with exhaust invasion of cooling system due to a blown head gasket. THis is what "burps" the system.
    I told you many ways to check specifically for this...I think this relieves you from more testing. Most obviously, you have a blown head gasket.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    P1123 Long Term Fuel Trim Adaptive Air System Low - Read Our
    Article On Oxygen Sensor Codes For Help With This Kia Check Engine Light Code

    PLease indicate year model.
    THis indicates computer tries to correct for mixture past its available range. THere is a problem with the fuel delivery system. DO you have other symptoms?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    "it is really sluggish like it has no power until you get up to over 60km per hour. It is an automatic "
    Did you have this car for a long time? DO you compare the performance to this same car as you knew it before, or to other cars you are used to drive? Objectively, this engine has no torque at low rpm ...so what you say is not very different from its "normal" behaviour....that is why I want to know your base for comparison....

    I had asked you to confirm you do not start with the HOLD light on...
  • Our radiator had been leaking a little bit and We just found out yesterday from the dealership that it is a blown gasket and they want $1000 to $2000 for fixing it!! Can we use one of those stop leak products instead? My husband found some thing called Steel Seal on the internet which is supposed to be garanteed but it almost seems too good to be true.
  • Hello:

    I think the catalytic converter in the front needs to be replaced. A mechanic in my church will do the work for free, only $200 for the part. Does anyone know, the repair shop told me theres a front catalytic converter and a rear one? Is that true? Six months ago the check engine light on and the codes showed a leak in the EVAP system. Thanks.
  • I've replaced the spark plugs, the wires, the coil packs, and we've sealed the top half of the engine again (oil was hitting the back spark plug) and I'm still having issues.

    I don't know what the name of it is, but there's a wire in the back of the engine, a little left of the center, that when moved simulated the shaking and stalling I was going through. When we moved it, the shaking stopped. We zip tied it, and replaced it. Car ran fine for two days, and now it's doing the same thing again. I'm absolutely furious about this. My job is very strict about coming in on time, and me being without a car is going to cause me to lose my job. I need some help with this, and a friend of mine works on cars all the time cannot figure this out at all.

    I'm stuck. Help if you can.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    re: radiator
    I do not believe in miracles...and I always wonder how these "stopleak" agents know what to plug, and what not. ILve never used them and would not, but I know some did...and checked their problem for a while, while others ended up with a clogged radiator or heater core that they had to change on top of the head gasket.....if the instant return on probability of success is worth it, calculate your odds..but in the end, the head gasket will have to be done. I understand proper (or improper) timing can be a factor.
    THIs car gasket change is not such a tedious job as access is not that bad and I think some trusted mechanic can do it for much less. $1500 is what it takes to do both heads on a GM 3.4 when half of the car has to be taken out or the engine subframe lowered down and out.....so same amount is out of proportion for a Sporty.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    re: I've replaced the spark plugs, the wires, the coil packs, and we've sealed the top half of the engine again
    Details on year , model, engine type , color of wire . ANy code available?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    re: think the catalytic converter in the front needs to be replaced.
    What were the starting elements for this conclusion?
    Yes there are 2 cats.
    Leak codes for EVAP system are quite common.....and they come and go for no reason...anyway, check all hoses to the evap can and solenoid valve on right fender and keep fuel fill cap tight.
  • sue45sue45 Posts: 7
    Have had the car for the last 4 years, it is nothing compared to what it used to be. The car is started without the hold light on. We are in the process of checking your other list of things to try. Not a lot of time to spend on it, and have not driven it for awhile :cry:
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    I did not go back to see previous posts...a little bit tedious...but..
    - My fist suspicion is still about belt/cam timing....may be it was double checked, may be not... but I would not go investigating a lot of other possible factors unless I'm 100% positively categorically sure this item is OK.....
  • HI UNDUE your Negative BATTERY CABLE (BLACK) for 10 mins, then put it back on..this should erase your CHECK ENGINE LITE that si on..you will have to reset your clock inside the car..good luck
  • HELLO RAN
    I believe this was a RECALL by KIA ..you can check this at www.car.com (think they list that recall there)..
    2 connectors go to YOUR COIL PACKS..Kia says C123 and C124 CONNECTORS come loose from engine vibration and make this car stall and run rough..you can wire tie them at both ends..but I taped mine REALLY tight with ELECTRICAL wire so the connectors would NOt come loose again..KIA should replace these for free if you can find the recall info.
    These (connector) wires are connected to a RED and WHITE wires(inside the connector) that fire your coils..GOOD LUCK! Let me know how things go ~
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    onejule wrote:
    I think the catalytic converter in the front needs to be replaced. A mechanic in my church will do the work for free, only $200 for the part. Does anyone know, the repair shop told me theres a front catalytic converter and a rear one?

    Here is one
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-02-kia-sportage-manifold-catalytic-converter-u- pper_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33629QQihZ001QQitemZ110229830518QQrdZ1QQsspagena- meZWDVW

    HOwever, check this photo
    http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg246/avigex/frontcat.jpg
    as it seems some come with the front pipe, others not....
  • onejuleonejule Posts: 4
    Your awesome, thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • dan133dan133 Posts: 2
    Hello... I'm planning on buying a 2002 sportage (2.0--manual trans--4x4--4dr 50000miles on it.) I've been reading the posts in the forum & beginning to wonder if its a good idea or not. Would like to know if some of you could tell me some specifics to look for before i finalize the sale, & would you buy one again?? I have an appointment to look at it again tomorrow nite. I have looked it over once, & driven it & I liked it. I noted the smell of antifreeze with the hood up standing in front of it. Also heard antifreeze circulating for about 15 seconds after shutting off the engine. I noted the temp gauge reading was exactlt in the middle while driving. I intend on using this as a daily driver & to tow behind my motorhome once in a while. I appreciate any info & advice. THANKS
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Depends on price.
    ALthough head gaskets failure is not a common issue with that engine, some cases are reported and what you mentioned trigs my caution.....At least, I'd fill the radiator to the rim when cold, leave cap off then run the engine and look for bubbles coming out the rad ..some lost "air" bubbles might escape at first...but if a continuous supply of bubbles come, that means exhaust invasion and a blown head gasket.
    Also, check for fluctuating temp needle when you run the car on the road, and for continuous heat output form the heater. Random heater output (turns cold, then warm...might be accompanied by borborythms) is sign of blown gasket.
    Other than that, there is the common issue of front hubs going haywire, but this is easy to solve for 200$ ...a common problem that is not a no-no.
    ..and the little beast is fun to drive....specially with a manual...
  • dan133dan133 Posts: 2
    Thank you. I will follow your advice & check the head gasket. The selling price will probably be $5000. I will most likely install manual hubs. Got a lot of good info just reading the posts in this forum. You're right....it is fun to drive. My wife even liked driving it & she hasn't driven a manual in 25 yrs.
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