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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair



  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Can you indicate what modelyear you are talking about?...reply below is relevant of 1997-2000...ahh OK..your duplicate post said 97... mean it stalls at a red light just like a manual when you would stop without depressing the clutch..??....I suppose it does not happen just when you start with the car initially, but just after you have driven it for a little while...please confirm and add details if my interpretation is incorrect.
    THis would be a symptom of stuck Torque converter clutch...(TCC). One way to test it is to disconnect the TCC signal so it does not apply . This would mean disconnecting the BLU/BLK wire from the transmission connector (pin 2). If this makes the symptom disappears, then you have a problem within transmission, most probably the TCC solenoid. you can choose to run without TCC for as long as you want, there is no problem other than a slight fuel burn penalty...and the check engine light coming ON.
    Report findings.
  • andy91andy91 Posts: 6
    Ok kia check engine light is fixed. It was the computer that had gone bad making the engine misfire on cylinders 2,3,4 periodically. Instead of buying a 695.00 new one I got a salvaged one and it has been running great for the past two weeks.. Thanks for all the help.
  • jomojrjomojr Posts: 1
    This same thing just happened on my 99 sportage. Im going to be looking into it tomorrow. My dash lights, marker light, and tail lights are all out. My headlamps, turn signals, and brake lights work fine.
  • I have noticed a couple times when I am stopped at a red light or somewhere I stay still that once and a while steam comes out from under my hood.
    I thought it might be a leak but I have checked and found nothing. I did have a leak before about a month and a hlf ago and some of the radiator fluid spilled out onto other parts of the vehicle. But ever since it was fixed I have had no signs of leaks.
    Also the temperature was cool enough to see your breath and the exhaust coming from vehicles ahead of me.
    Is there another possibility.
    Its a 2000 Sportage
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    By any chance, were the roads wet?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Slightly, I thought maybe tires might have been kicking water up, but I had been in a drive thru when it happened most recently and it didnt do it at first or not noticeably until I had been there for a few minutes.
    My belt got squeaky when it happened and after I drove off it stopped when I came to the next red light.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    If there is nothing leaking and you're seeing vapor then it's likely being caused by water from an external source coming in contact with the hot engine. Have you examined the engine compartment for signs of water accumulation?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Since Oct of 2008 I have been trying to solve this problem. A buzzing noise starts in the area of the transmission and starts surging while decelerating or accelerating. If I do nothing it will eventually die but has always started up again. I have had the engine and transmission computer changed out. Still did it. Replace the switch relay. Same thing. Anyone had a similar experience and how did you fix it. Run it off a cliff?
  • yusif51yusif51 Posts: 1
    when do you get a tune-up on kia 2007 sportage
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,022
    Check the Edmunds Maintenance Guide for maintenance schedules.

    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • gjangjan Posts: 3
    My 1998 Kia Sportage fule pump will not run. The pump tests ok out of the car, the relays have been replaced, but the pump doesn't run. Any idea what to look for next?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Have you test whether power is getting to the pump when it's in the car?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • gjangjan Posts: 3
    Yup it's not. I tested at the under-hood fuse box where the fuel pump relay is. The fuel pump relay port only shows power on one terminal always. Nothing showing on others when key turned on or cranking.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    That suggests there is a problem with the pump's electrical connections. Does yours have some kind of electrical plug?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • gjangjan Posts: 3
    Not sure where you're going...I ran the relay test described elsewhere at Edmunds, and found that, since the only place I have power to the relays is the constant power terminal, no other terminal has power at key position "On" or ignition, that the indication would be that the failure is someplace between battery and relay. All fuses are good, so I'm wondering:
    Do any sensors have the potential to block power to the relay through their own failure?
    Or is the main computer bad? Or a bad ground somewhere? All other electrical functions work.
    Which is more likely?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Not sure where you're going...

    Me neither! But you said the pump functions correctly when removed and the battery/relays are okay so I'm wondering whether all the connections are good. Regarding sensor or electronic control modules being at fault, I suppose that's possible. Perhaps someone with hands on experience would care to jump in and offer some advice. Anyone?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    At KEY ON, you should have the fuel pump relay coil hot on one side. The ECM grounds the other side of coil. 12V is fed to FP relay coil from a green wire coming form the MAIN RELAY. Hence MAIN relay must operate first. ECM activates the main relay coil ground side.
    Missing 12V at the FP coil means something is lost somewhere.
    fuel pump circuit
    There have been cases of ignition key some means to check for that should come first, just in case.
  • buzzard40buzzard40 Posts: 3
    Our '08 Sportage LX 2WD 2.0L was operating perfectly at 740 miles since new (we bought it in 01/09). Then, it began to be difficult to start...somewhat worse when cold than when warm. No codes, no "check engine". It turns over fine but either doesn't fire or just stumbles as thought it's too lean to run. It went to the dealer twice. The first time, they replaced the fuel pump difference. The service dept. said the fuel pressure was too low but apparently didn't test it again with the new pump installed. I don't have an adapter to put a guage on the fuel rail, so I don't know if the pressure is what it should be (nearly 50 psi)..

    The second time, they blamed the owner (me) for installing a keyless entry system and causing some electrical "gremlin". So I removed the keyless entry leaving no spliced wires or anything else changed from the original factory configuration. No difference.

    The best way to get it to start is to turn the key on and off 3 times before trying to start it. I'm hoping that's a useful clue for some of you experienced folks who know these cars. I usually work on old trucks, cars, and motorcycles and so have little experience with modern vehicles. I've tried to avoid vehicles with interference engines, Gilmer belt cam drives, McPherson struts, CV joints, computers, and other things that seem to be maintenance headaches, but this was the vehicle my wife wanted.

    Any hints, hypotheses or suggestions?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    I've tried to avoid vehicles with interference engines, Gilmer belt cam drives, McPherson struts, CV joints, computers, and other things that seem to be maintenance headaches,
    ..mmm...I think you would rather drive a bike....but I also find carbs and ignition breaker points were easy to cope with....though I must admit that all of the present day contraptions are really fine when they act according to plans.... experience with the 09 model....but I would investigate , just to be sure, in the direction of Mass Airflow Sensor , Idle Air control valve and Coolant temp least to clear these options out.....
  • buzzard40buzzard40 Posts: 3
    Thanks for your ideas Imp4. I agree...when these modern machines are running right, they're great.

    My first idea was the ECTS (engine coolant temp sensor) since the problem was initially limited to cold starts and the engine seems too lean to start (I used the old timer's technique of sniffing the tailpipe when my wife cranked the engine...I could hear it fire and stumble but smelled no fuel in the exhaust). But then, it began to be intermittently difficult to start warm as well as cold. I haven't put the ohmmeter on the ECTS yet since it's difficult to reach in there and disconnect the plug.

    The odd thing about the symptoms is that it runs perfectly once it starts. No stalling, no hesitation, no loping, fuel economy about 21mpg in local driving. Would that be the case with a faulty mass airflow sensor, idle air control valve, or coolant temp sensor? I just don't have much experience with these modern fuel injection systems. Is there some kind of starting enrichment system? If so, I suspect it would be some kind of code in the ECM that determines how wide a pulse to give each electronic fuel injector at startup, wouldn't it?

    Any ideas are welcome!
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