Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair

13031323335

Comments

  • i dont get it i have fixed everything on my sportage no special tools required the tune up is aser in it than my girlfrinds van.for tune up pull off intake unscrew the plastick cover then change the 2 moduals 2 wires 4 sparkplugs then put it back togeather tho only special tool u will need is a small sparkplug socket with the ruber boot in it or a magnat on a stick to pull the plugs out and set them back in
  • toast4toast4 Posts: 1
    I have a vehicle with a similar issue.(losing power uphill and seems to be limited to around3000 rpm) I don't see your resolution to your problem posted. I would really appreciate you telling me what finally fixed the problem.
    Thanks
  • tevinbtevinb Posts: 1
    ive notice that alot of people are have sputtering/stalling with the 2000 kia sportage . mine has just started to sputter and stail out when i come to a stop sign or leave it in park . i want to know if anyone has solved the problem. if so comment thank you
  • I have a 2001 Kia Sportage and I replaced the head gasket. I'm now trying to put everything back together and I have no idea what the part in the picture is. Any ideas?

    image

    image
  • I need the manual to correctly set up all the vacuum lines and everything else. I removed the head quite a while ago to have it repaired and now ity's back but I don't remember how everything goes.
    Can you help me out with pictures and diagrams of the engine bay setup?
    Thanks
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,916
    edited May 2012
    The links in the Online Repair Manuals discussion may help.
  • I bought my Kia Sportage 2001 at a third party auction. Big mistake, you cant drive it around. The mechanic said the engine light was the Crank Sensor, I couldnt even make it threw a street light. I had to put my leg out and give it a shove just to make it to the gas station. The mechanic replaced the Crank Sensor, I was told not to take it to the dealer right away. HA! Little did I know. I went straight to the dealership, and I spent another 2300 on melted catalytic converter among other items and labor. I had only drove it less than 100 miles. Now, I still have the same issues, I added gas treatment(s) and that only made things worse, after I have drove it less than a 1000 miles. Sometimes i cant even get out into the intersection from a dead stop. If I get it to run, by putting it in LOW , then 2nd, and then drive to get it up to 45 miles an hour, then I can get up to 55-65+ miles an hr. But, if there is an incline i creap up by putting it in 2nd. Sometimes, it does not work in LOW nor 2nd, its like the fuel isnt getting in somewhere. I hate to spend anymore money into this Kia Sporate 2001, but I have no choice at this point. Next, I am doing all the suggestions off this site, and possibly changing the fuel filter and maybe the fuel pump to see that helps. I have to call back to the dealership who worked on it since the work is not itemized to where you know what was done.
    Any suggestions would be great.
  • jim298jim298 Posts: 9
    engine is probably out of time check timing belt first by compression test as the engine was built by mitsubishi details are vaguge compression is the only way to tell it doesnt take much a couple of notches and your out of luck this would explain the catilist failure i have one and have had little failures
  • badbetheebadbethee Posts: 2
    Service repair manual for 2000 Kia Sportage EX refers to "BOB pins" in the troubleshooting procedure section of emission control system. For example: "With engine idling, measure voltage at BOB pin 41 (0.9v to 1v)." Where are the "BOB pins located?" Is it a separate, specialized tool from Kia? Thank you for your assistance!
  • i own a 2002 Kia Sportage 5 spd manual trans. bought in May 2012 with 92,000 miles on it. Said to have 2 previous owners and it was in damn good shape. I bought it at a dealer that is Buy-here Pay-Here, since im young and dont want a 500 hundred dollars a month car note, that would be financed for 7 years, the insurance alone would have buckled my spending bubble.... but i bought my kia for 6 grand, $750 down, and a Dealer Warranty which has now saved my butt big time. I will have it paid off in a little less than two years from the time i got it, and with weekly payments. Ran great at first, Beautifully acctually......., atleast until the 3-day 100% Satisfaction Guarantee that the dealer offered expired and i was unable to trade it in for another car. The dealer offers a warranty for most parts under the hood, all major and some minor for 5 Months or 5,000 miles, whichever comes first. Had the car 5 days, and I stalled out in the parking lot of my job close to midnight and I couldnt get her to crank back up.. No lights in the dash came on, no check engine light, no nothing.... Battery wasnt dead, had a full tank of gas, and the motor still had compression, just no fire, she acted like it was starving, like it wasnt getting fuel, but when id turn the key on accessory, i couldnt here the hum of the fuel pump. So i checked my relays and all connections that i could find, and still noGo..... I let her sit a short time while I waited on my father-in-law(Pops) who owns a Service Center and is my personal mechanic when i cant figure it out myself... Tried again and she crunk right up, but immediately died 3 seconds later. Tried again and again, and it seemed like the motor would turn over a little less every time I turned the key over. Pops said it could be the fuel pump burnt up, but if it was the fuel pump, the motor would still have enough fuel in the lines to atleast run for a few seconds after stalling out. So we sit down on the curb for a lil while and let our minds twist around this lump of crap. I let her sit bout twenty minutes while we swapped out relays, fuses, and checked all the fluids. Everything looked perfect. So before Pops was ready to tow just yet, i got in, turned the key over and she started beautifully, and she stayed running, so i put in gear, no fail yet, hit the gas and off she went, until i got about 1500 ft. to the top of the hill and was almost stopped looking for traffic and she stalled out again, crunk right back up but died before i could ease off the clutch, i immediately tried 3 times, then it became a no crank zone again.... I just let her roll on back down the hill to level ground. Tested the waiting for 20 minutes theory again, but a BIG noGo whatsoever.... Pops is convinced its the fuel pump now for sure.... I asked about popping the clutch, and Pops said Naww, she aint gonna crank, but have a go and try it, just to ease that stubborn, bullheadedness of yours, but she aint gonna crank, oh and just in case IT DOES CRANK, hit the gas and dont let them wheels stop turning or slow down till you get her to the shop doors. So we pushed her and got a good speed on level ground, popped the clutch, but a noGo, 2 more times, still noGo. Then i told Pops just one more push and ill let you tow me back. So with no motivation, and neither one of paying attention to the slight up hill roll we had going, I popped the clutch and sure enough she turned over, perdy as could be, i took one spin roun the parking witch is just like a bowl, slopes on all sides, then i heard Pops holler "Better get her to shop while ya got a chance!" and i sped off like a bat outta hell, never once did I have to stop or slow down with it being 2 a.m., till i got to the bay doors at the shop 7 miles away. She sputtered a little bit at the door after being stopped for a few minutes in neutral with me slightly hitting the accelerator, just enough to keep her over 15K RPMS. As soon i put her in first and tried to ease off the clutch, she stalled out. we pushed up in the shop, and put the small computer to her brain, and it said "No Communication", so we tried the fancy new computer, hooked her up, and got absolutely nothing except the computer telling us that nothing is wrong. So we give up for the night, get some rest, and come back the next day around lunch time(it was the weekend so the shop was closed.) Get in, put the key in, turn it over and she cranks right up like the night before had never happened, and she continued to run to till i shut her off a half hour later, and put a pressure test on the fuel lines. No problems whatsoever. Went ahead and did a tune-up, oil change, balance and rotate the tires, and do a front end alignment.. test drive after test drive.. then with the car completely inspected and finally approved by A very confused and completely stumped ole Pops. Said he never had seen anything like it, not from that extreme of the motor starving so badly to it not missing a lick the next day, with it not being touched by a soul!!!! She ran perfect for two weeks, then one night half way home, the check engine light came on. Pops was out of town and the shop locked up, so i went to AutoZone and had them hook up their computer. Its came back the o2 sensors, both of them. They printed out a list of possibilities that could be the problem with the sensors, which was no help at all.... but still the car ran smoothly. Took it to the dealer and they sent me to their mechanic, some real old man, he put his fancy computer on it, said the o2 sensors were fine, what the problem was, was that the o2 sensors were showing numbers on the computer that read around the same numbers (for example... Left-328 Right- 416, then, Left-856, Right-924) where as normal o2 sensor numbers on a car that runs right, the numbers should be running opposite of each other (EX.-- Left 352, Right- 986, and vise versa) The old man said that it was my catalytic converters that were messed up, that they werent clogged up, but that the centers were burnt out!!!! He said that the ethynol in gasoline is what causes this to happen, the fumes will acctually get soo hot in the exhaust pipes that it will burn a hole thru them. I had told the old man my story Ive just told you and he said that my little fiasco in the middle of the night sounded like my cats had been stopped up partially, causing the car to stall, cause it couldnt breathe, in turn making it seem like it was starving for fuel, and that was the incedent that just so happened to burnt out the middle of them for good, making the problem never resurface itself in that manner, but now the exhaust is just pumping a few more fumes out of the car than what was meant, causing the o2 sensors to scream at you because there is too many fumes, or the fumes arent emmitting evenly throughout the system. The mechanic told me i could spend the money on new cats, which are a pretty penny, or i could just keep driving it until a
  • My kia will not start, I replaced almost everything, new plugs and coils, fuel filter, computer, reylays, starter scener, and today I put a new fuel pump in just like everrything else, after I changed it ran for a short time and shuts off, don't know what else to do?
  • The door alarm is going off all the time, where is the fuses for this on a 2001 kia sportage. I found two fueses boxs one under the drive side and one under the hood. But no fuses is listed as door.
  • I Drive a 95 Sportage and one day my breaks and clutch both went out, turns out i had a hole in my Master Slave Cylinder and all my Break Fluid leaked and was gone. I replaced the part and refilled the brake fluid tank (the clutch uses this fluid also) and you will need to bleed your brakes and clutch. Hope this helps, Good Luck.
  • BOB refers to a breakout box.
    It allows the technician to test any circuit to which it is connected.

    Generally, the car's PCM (Powertrain Control Module, or computer) is disconnected from its wiring harness, and the breakout box is plugged in between them.
    (NOTE: Battery must be disconnected before any connectors to the computer are plugged in or unplugged in order to prevent computer damage.)

    Breakout boxes are not usually sold to the public, and are fairly expensive.
    A Kia dealer or a repair shop specializing in Kia repairs would probably be the only ones to have one.
  • I have a similar problem. My OBD test pointed to gearbox setting, and some electronic devices causing weak air/fuel mixture.
    Can someone show me where I can locate the following devices on the KIA Sportage 1998 4x4
    1. Fuel Tank Pressure sensor
    2. Oxygen sensor HO2S
    3. Knock sensor
    4. Fuel control sensor
  • My 1998 KIA Sportage 4x4 is giving similar problems. My OBD says the gearbox requires setting. It also says there is air leaks making the fuel / air mixture too weak. It says the following electronic parts are defective.

    Can someone show me where they are located on the vehicle?
    1. Fuel tank pressure sensor
    2. Oxygen sensor HO2S
    3. Knock sensor
    4. Fuel control sensor
    Thank you
  • 2gringos2gringos Posts: 2
    I just bought 2013 Sportage SL. Live 4 miles from nearest pavement, on a rough road on small tropical island in British West Indies. The dirt here has the same salt content as the ocean.

    I am trying to find real mud flaps to install behind the wheels, front and rear. It's difficult, because I think a lot of suppliers call the little tabs in front of th wheels splash guards. I am looking for something different than the little tabs that came on the car.
  • kyfdx%40Edmundskyfdx%40Edmunds Posts: 25,856
    edited June 2013
    Check out rallyarmor.com

    They have some universal fit flaps that might work..

    Moderator - Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • 2gringos2gringos Posts: 2
    We have a 2013 Sportage SL, from Korea. It came with the electric door locks, and two of the 'switchblade' button key fobs with the buttons to lock/unlock the doors. Is it possible for me to get just a normal key without any electrics? Of course we have the key code, a tag that came with the car. But there are no locksmiths or KIA dealers in the country where we live. This is a new car from a local auto rental company. They are no help.
  • wwiz1wwiz1 Posts: 1
    Just put a head gasket on it, almost have it back together however need help on routing hoses. There is a nipple at the bottom of the intake body, does the hose from the evaporator box go to this point? There are two other hoses that look to be vacuum as well, same side of engine, I think both of them go to the front of the intake housing, but alas I am not sure, any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks in advance
    pics welcome
Sign In or Register to comment.