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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    WIth the heater not working, if confirms either your fluid turned into ice and if you can enter it in the garage while engine is warms the heat may spread and thaw the ice in the heater system. Ice does not flow easily through the heater core :( . , or:
    the other option, and I hope it is not the case, is a blown head gasket or craked block due to freezing, but the first explanation is enough to explain your case.. FIrst make sure the whole car temperature runs above freezing point before anything else, test coolant and add antifreeze .
  • Thanks for your help. I'm going to try to get it into the garage. I'll keep you posted.
  • so far I have determined that the hoses coming from the radiator are not attached to anything. It looks like one goes into another tank, (maybe the reserve I don't know but what ever it is, it is empty!) and I have no clue where the other one goes. Any ideals? :confuse:
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    there are 2 large hoses..about 2 inches in diameter, and one small, about 1/2", goes to the reserve tank as you said.
    Top large hose passenger side goes to thermostat (Viewed from top in drawing below)
    Bottom large hose driver side returns to engine (Viewed from under in drawing below)
    image
    if this image link dead use this one
    hoses
  • Thank you. The one that goes to the reserve tank splits into two, do they both go into the reserve?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    I do not see that on this drawing
    image
    I will check in my car tomorrow......too cold to-nite.....
  • ok, I got the hoses all connected. Now I need to drain the radiator and fill it with anti-freeze. Just one little problem, I can't find the drain plug. Any chance anyone has a picture or something? Man its 9:00 and I'm still out in the cold trying to fix this thing. Lol....
  • Can't locate the drainage plug for the radiator. I have a 1999 kia sportage ex. Anyone know where it is?
  • is there a way to leave hub locked in until i can replace on my 99 sportage i live in maine and need 4 wheel drive and it wont lock in
  • I really appreciate your message-very helpful in deciding what to do. The cam type automatic hublock is actually an older style from what I can see. Can the cam type be fitted to the 2000 Kia? Also maybe this is not the way to go since I don't know how reliable the cam type is. Do you know of any after market parts that would work for my application.
    Again I reallly appreciate your info. I have looked in all sorts of books and none of them mention the vacuum free wheeling hubs. They are always refered to as free wheeling hubs and never illustrate how they work.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Drain cock shows in the first drawing :
    image
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    The WARN cam type is the one availabe as after market replacement as referenced in the installation instructions I provided in previous post.. That is the one I have and it wirks flawlessly. If you do extreme off road, the manuals are better though.
    warn manual hubs: 60247
    warn auto hubs: 61918 (comes as a complete kit as illustrated in instruction sheet) check this link
    ANd yes, your vacuum type can be locked by dissassembling the hubs and simply moving the spring on the opposite side of the piston. THis will keep all the shafts turning full time, hence a little more drag, and you will have actual 4 or 2 wheel drive with the transfer case shifter.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    And..do not forget this is a part-time 4WD configuration (it has no differential between the rear and front driving shafts) and must NEVER be operated on 4WD on a dry surface for danger or overtorquing the drive train and specially the transfer case .
  • pootpoot Posts: 3
    I've got a 1995 Sportage 2.0 sohc 5 speed 4 x 4 that started hesitating about 1 year ago. When I say hesitate it's a flat spot akin to an older carb type engine. It's been a while since I checked the fuel pressure but I DO remember it was well within specs. But to be sure, I replaced the pump anyway and checked the tank strainer, replaced the fuel filter, ran thru a few bottles of injector cleaner over time, replaced the throttle pos. sensor, cleaned the throtle body, replaced the mass air flow meter, air filter, wires, and plugs. IT STILL HESITATES!!! Do ANYONE have an idea what the cause might be?! This is VERY aggrivating to drive but other then this it runs good and get's 25mpg.
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    I went to start my car last night and took it out of 4 wheel drive and started to back up then i heard what sounded like the tires being stuck in ice then the check engine light popped on. So i backed up a little shut the car off then started it again hoping maybe the light would go off but it didn't. However, i got out of the car and saw what looked like a burst of oil where my car first was before i moved it then i loked under it and saw what looked like oil dripping from under the car. I then checked the oil and it seemed fine (i will check again later tonight after it has set for awhile). I also looked around the engine while i was checking the oil and saw what looked like oil by the oil filter and the filter was tight and no new oil on it. I was just ondering if anyone had any ideas of what it may be. Or if anyone has had a similiar experience. thanks... I guess i should mention it is a manual transmission as well.. sorry about that
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    -sounded like the tires being stuck in ice (well, this is possible: I can understand you have winter where you live..)
    -check engine light popped on
    -oil dripping from under the car
    puzzling....!??...these look like three unrelated events ..
    I understand it is the check engine light that popped on, not the oil pressure light..right?

    Can you have the code read?
    Did you try restarting tha car and how does it behave?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Really puzzling indeed....YOu have done all what the inital suggestions would have been ....
    I also understand you have no Check Engine Light ON....as this is a '95, it is probably OBD1 and there is a way to flash the codes, if any...but of course, OBD1 has limited capabilities......
    NOne of the options below is clearly defined by your description, but:

    Ever considered catalytic blockage? This has been linked to similar symptoms in several occasions: it acts mostly when trying to accelerate at wide throttle opening as there is an added exhaust volume to handle..then at steady road speed, the problem seems to be gone..

    What is mileage of engine and was timing belt changed before? I think the SOHC is less prone than the DOHC to belt failure/slippage, but it has limits too and I'd go for this check , just to be sure nothing is left in the unknown.
    image
    image
    image
    Another possibility - rare but verified on another car - would be a failed or shorted temperature sensor that then indicates a warmer temperature: this would lean the mixture, cause knocking, and then the knock sensor would retard timing, all that would cause symptoms that could match your description. However, such a failure would make starting rather difficult in the cold, so I'd rather dismiss this cue, but....just for the record....
  • Does any one know where I can find a manual or how to put the timing back in my Kia? Also need to know about torque specs for Head on a 2.0L engine and sequence. If anybody knows the answer or a good website to find this stuff please let me know!!!
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Check this out: Online Repair Manuals

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Well i started the car this morning to warm it up and let the windows defrost for about 5 minutes and when i came out there was a pool of oil under the car so i took my roommates car, also the dipstick before i started it showed low. Then when i got home form work i check the oil again seeing as the car had plenty of time to set and it was almost empty. I am thinking maybe i burst a gasket or possibly the oil pump possibly went seeing as it only leaks when the car is running.
    As for checking the codes i am not sure how to do that on the kia i am used to having a honda where i am able to use a paper clip..
    And the oil light is still not on, that i do not understand myself. However the check engine light is on and that puzzles me as well..
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