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Jeep Commander Tweaks

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Comments

  • Is anyone else having problems with their rear sensors on the 2010 Commanders? I had a 2006 and have used them for 3 years. I backed into my neighbor's car at night and they never beeped at all.
  • itabotitabot Posts: 105
    gas cap on jeep commander was loose (not the three clicks, someone else filled for me the last two times), so i am thinking that is why the Malfunction Indicator Light went on this morning; the commander has 42k on it and i have had problems with it prior to its hitting 36k.

    called chrysler today and crystal said that - i told her gas cap had been loose and i filled with ultra premium but light was still on - she explained that 'several typical driving cycles' would = about 50miles and that if light remains on after 50 miles, bring it to service center.

    other than the light, the commander is finally driving well enough. since purchasing used at a local Westport-Norwalk Jeep Dealer (who failed to file warranty papers at time of purchase thus leaving me without a warranty) i have put another $6k into the car, bad brakes, bad tires, new starter, leaking fuel, transmission and power steering lines, etc., i .e., i am hoping that the loose gas cap really could have brought on this light and that 50 miles of driving will cure it.

    any insights?

    and, in case the man who traded in his wrangler reads this, i can tell you that i have had two wranglers (no problems at all!) as well as bmw convertible (no problems) and jaguar (finicky and more expensive oil changes and tune ups but not as expensive to maintain as this commander; at least jaguar was regularly scheduled maintenance, whereas this commander is nothing but surprises that usually need to be towed ($100-150) in)
  • retail102retail102 Posts: 10
    open the roof, open front door, stand in door frame so you can see roof opening, look towards the corners and see hole. Take compressed air like a can of pc cleaner/duster, stick nozzle in hole and blow it out. works everytime.
  • Our 2007 Commander with 89,350 miles on it with a 4.7 liter V-8 is a mighty fine machine. Trail Rated with the Quadra-Drive II transmission. She is bone stock.
    It replaced our 1997 Ford Expedition with 230,000+ miles on it. Ran great but rusted away.

    I like the quiet interior, the get up and go, the smooth shifting, comfy seats.
    It's just my wife and I so the third row back seats are folded down with a spill-proof packaged tray with access from the lift tail gate. Nobody rides in the second seating.

    Brakes are fantastic, steers like she is on rails.

    Gas mileage is terrible ... 14 or so in town 21.3 on the highway ... but wait! Any Air Force guy or gal will tell you that " resistance through air SQUARES as speed DOUBLES ". So keep your foot out of it and use cruise when possible. She is tall and boxy and that style of body will not cheat the wind. It is not possible to fool physics. Drive like you have a raw egg between your foot and the gas pedal.

    Jeep had a recall called an --:> N-23 <:-- I don't know what hat was all about but it was a re-program of a computer. Drivers are finding that their 4 wheel drive low on the Quadra-Drive II transmission stopped working ... EASY FIX. And there is a U-Tube video on this too.

    Under the hood~driver's side is a fuse box. Find fuse location #25 and remove the 20 amp fuse. Start the jeep and put it in 'N' and pull up the 4wd Tee handle ... you will get the " Service 4 Wheel Drive " lite. Shut her down ... re install the 20 amp fuse and start it up again. Find 'N' and pull up the handle ... she'll slip into FWD Low flawlessly, over and over again. You just reprogrammed the computer. Don't let the dealer tell you differently.

    The big difference between the Ford Expedition and the Jeep Commander is gearing. The 5.4 liter in the Ford turned 1650 rpm at 60 mph while the Jeep [a much smaller and 1000 lb lighter SUV] turns 2150 rpm at 60 mph. Less rpm's + less gas burned.

    But 'gas' is the cheapest part of driving a vehicle. You can't drive anything for much less then buck-a-mile.
  • skip2014skip2014 Posts: 7
    edited September 12
    Let me also say ... don't go 'cheap' with spark plugs ... get the correct ones from the dealer and install them in a timely fashion. Do not go platinum.
    The big V-8 has 16 plugs ... the smaller V-8 has 16 for the high output 4.7 liter and 8 for the standard 4.7 liter [mine]. And 6 for the 3.7 liter V-6.

    Change the fluids and appropriate filters ... Air-oil-trans-axles-brake fluid and power steering on time [use a Turkey Baster to suck out all the brake and power steering as you can and replace with new. I do this once a year]. There is an optional 'cabin air filter kit' for dusty driving goes under the wiper alley façade.

    And note that aggressive driving will tear the three bushings up that hold and position the front axle differential. You will hear a 'Clunk' when they tear.

    Let me correct my line in #1 post to read --:>Less rpm's = less gas burned.

    As to the commit about the V-6 Commander being a slug ... we drove our 1996 VW Wasserboxer 2100 cc Syncro awd van for 200,000 plus miles at a snail's pace. But we arrived eventually. Get my drift?

    I don't buy a car to crash in so I don't care how safe it is, and I gave up road racing my 1954 Austin-Healey/Ford V-8 in A-Sport Race in SCCA.
  • I don't depend on the warrantee. What ever breaks, I fix.
    Our most dependable ride turns out to be the wife's "Land Yacht" a 1930 Ford Model 'A' ~ B-40 Standard Roadster. Always starts ... never stranded her and drives swell.
    Her other car is a 2007 Mercury Montego Premier awd, she only racked up 22,000 miles on it. So far so good.
  • I had a 1976 XJ-12 C Jaguar. For ever day on the road I spent two under the car ... but the double-six was a good runner ... it's the rest of the car that was trouble.
    Hint: Water cooled? ANY temperature is O.K. as long as your not loosing water. And don't switch from the right fuel tank filled with 12-1/2 gallons of Shell premium to the left fuel tank filled with 12-1/2 gallons of regular Shell gasohol on the 'Dirty Dan Ryan' expressway in Chicago and expect the computer to happily and correctly keep injecting fuel. Crank her long enough to rid the fuel rail of the gasohol and replace it with premium and she'll fire right back up.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,261
    edited September 12
    skip2014 said:



    Let me correct my line in #1 post to read --:>Less rpm's = less gas burned.

    There's a four hour window in which you can edit your post so if you're still around, try that out.

    I don't race either but I'd like some safety gear around me for a bit of protection from the boy-racers who think the feeder streets are Indy.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • skip2014skip2014 Posts: 7
    edited September 12
    I tried to edit but could not find the right button ... what do you push?
    Ahhhhhhhh Haaaaaaa ! The round thingy up in the right hand corner allows for editing .. cool.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,261
    edited September 12
    Oh yeah, knowing where the hidden gear is does help eh? I often forget to mention those little helpful details. :)

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • ... " We have not tested the mileage which I usually don't until after the second oil change and start using synthetics. "

    1~Fully synthetic engine oil has been created by processing Natural gas into a liquid oil.

    2~Because this oil is so slippery it runs down off the cylinder walls. Hence cold start-ups are dry start-ups. Need a bit of the 'old' style oil to keep components oiled during shut down.

    Read this engine discussion;
    http://www.allpar.com/mopar/47.html

    Oil Note--:> " The oiling system isn't radical, using a clever design first seen on the AMC V8s: the georotor-type pump is mounted in the timing cover, and is driven off the crank snout. Direct drive, unlike the current LA engine, which, if you think about it, is a nightmare. The oil pump drive torque comes off the crank nose, through the chain, to the cam, back through the full length of the cam, through a bevel gearset to the intermediate shaft, and then through a hexagonal drive to the pump itself. Whew ! Can you say, simplified ?

    The new, block mounted pump has a 75 psi relief valve, and a displacement of approx 1 cubic inch per revolution. The oil pan is stamped steel, includes a windage tray (integral with the pan gasket) and has a capacity of 5 quarts plus one in the filter. Pump clearances are designed for the recommended 5W30 oil [this appears to have changed to 5W20, probably with the 2008 model year]."

    My Commander with the 4.7 low out put [8 spark plugs] has been running well, but the mpg are low 11 to 14 mpg in town and 21 to 23 on the highway at 60 mph. Remember resistance through the air squares as speed doubles. So slow down. Push less air.
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