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Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel Questions

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  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    The cycling is normal (yes, it's caused by the intake heater), and lasts about 3 minutes.

    If you're going through batteries that quickly, you need to check for a drain somewhere, or make sure you have sufficient amp ratings (never use less than 750 CCA).

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • axle1axle1 Posts: 10
    I have an 06 cummings and every now and then i will get a puddle of something on the floor. I cant tell want it is, its not engine oil looks like tranny fluid and water mixed has no smell. But there is a hose that is exposed that looks like it is supposed to drain this. Is this normal.
  • I have a 97 dodge diesel that will not start .It has a new lift pump ,neew tps ,the fuel shutoff solenoid is working ,It will start with starter fluid sprayed into intake but will not continue to run.What else can I try?
  • red777red777 Posts: 22
    could be too much fuel pressure going to the pump, some 24 valves ; after being rebuilt have to have a 8 - 10 pound fuel regulator put in the line between lift pump and rotary pump. NOT 100% on the 12 valves but maybe it will help.

    Can be picked up at local auto parts store for around 10 bucks, 2 water clamps and one splice and your in shape.
  • Is it possible for the heater to melt and collapse into the manifold if the relay contacts weld shut, and batterys drain completly?
  • 01ram0101ram01 Posts: 1
    I also have a 2001 cummins with auto trans. I had the same problem 2 years ago. I have 144,000 on the truck now and no more problem. I thought the problem was the tranny or throttle position sensor, which is $400+. It was neither. I found out from a mechanic from California and $35, that it is a grounding problem. The transmission is doing what it is told. I cleaned the grounding posts on both batteries real well and this fixed the problem. If the computor doesn't have a good ground, this will happen. I didn't think the posts looked bad at all, but after the cleaning it worked fine. Hope this helps if you haven't fixed it all ready.
    01ram01
  • I cuurently have a head lamp on the rt side out only low beam. I assumed that the bulb was gone but after replacing still no light. Checking voltage at bulb outlet plug I get 10.3v between high and low beam lines but nothing through grounded leg sugesting that the ground is bad. However, high beam works just fine and reads correctly 12+ v when high beam is energized. Iremover the pcm (fuse pannel and attached circuit board) and checked all connectors without finding any obvious shorts or other signs of damage. I though that I read on a previous post something about wiring issues in loom /harness above fender and am suspecting that there may be a problem with the wiring from the light receptical to the pcm. I will need to find the correct wire at the pcm and check continuity to light recept.
    If anyone has some additional info that might direct me in a dif direction I certainly would appreciate it, I don't think that I want just jury rig a wire from the left light if I can correct the problem correctly.
  • kadoozeekadoozee Posts: 1
    Did you replace the bulb with a mopar bulb? Check the continuity of the old bulb before tearing into the truck to far. The pcm monitors the resistance of the bulbs very close and will not work with many aftermarket bulbs. This will also set a soft code if you have access to a good scanner (not just a obd unit). A good scanner will tell you the condition of the circuit with out tearing open the truck. and dont jumper left to right as the circuits are separate from the pcm and the extra load will cause havoc.
  • i have a 2003 3500 ram an it won't start unless i plug it in for awhile enen though its in the 40's at night? anyone have any idea what is going on thanks linda
  • handymenhandymen Posts: 1
    Driving along engine died 3 days ago. 1/4 tank fuel no pressure at lift pump, scanners reads no error codes. Engine cranks no problem. Can some one help me? have 225,000 miles on engine, purchased vehicle 2 years ago with 140k miles I don't have maintenance history prior to purchase. I This is first time it has left me stranded any where, pull 32 ft 5thwhl up over wolf creek pass Colorado last year this truck is all stock.
  • ramchargerramcharger Posts: 21
    Are you waiting for the start indicator light to go out? Your truck should start with no problems at that temp. Your intake preheater may not be working up to par. If your truck runs ok once started and starts easily when warm, that's where I would look good luck
  • dh56dh56 Posts: 7
    chances are that your alternator is not properly charging your battery or, your battery needs a replacement cause it sounds like your battery is charging off the outlet when you are plugging in over night.
  • dh56dh56 Posts: 7
    it sounds like your engine control unit (eng cpu) is not getting the right signal from your block heater sensor at times and knowing Cummins you should always turn your key to power on first for about 30 seconds and let your ECU and truck CPU run the self tests that are neccassary and then turn it over to crank. if this is not the issue then see if the dealer will "REFLASH" your CPU's for you and go from there. This way you know that you have the most udated software in your truck CPU's and then if it remains then you can start looking at replacing mechanical parts. Let me know what comes out of it.
  • thanks i will check that out
  • thanks i will check this out also
  • garrett6garrett6 Posts: 1
    hi,i have a 2006 bighorn diesel everytime i put it in park the panic horn goes off..also my door power mirrows wont work i change the fuse but it keeps blowing out.
  • hi i had a 2003 ram diesel got ave 11-12 pulling an 20-22 solo have heard that the new ones are not getting that good of mileage can anyone tell me what they are getting on average? thanks wheretootraveler
  • finally the replaced the heater temp sensor undre the battery started right up thanks for all the help an that it took so long to find the problem.
  • 1997 Dodge 2500 12 valve. 313,000 miles automatic trans. 4x4. Never had any mechanical problems with this truck, original cummins and transmission. Doing farm chores yesterday morning started early, truck fired right up fine. shut her off to load wood, fifteen minutes later tried to start and only got a click from relay mounted on driver side inner fender well. Checked all the fuses and wiring on battery to relay and to starter soleniod and found nothing wrong visually. Checked battery voltage(13.2 volts) both batteries, only about 6 months old. I have noticed 1 thing for the last month or so, when starting, the engine does not seem to turn over as fast as it usually does, but the truck always starts. When i turn the key to start i only get the clicking from 1 of the relays on the inner fender well, anybody have any suggestions on what to check next? thanx in advance!
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Hard starting leading to an eventual "click" usually means your starter has called it a career.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Host
  • red777red777 Posts: 22
    Try leaving the truck in park and use a screwdriver to jump the starter post. Should let you know if it's a starter or relay. I personally have had the post fall out of reman starters on my truck. Good luck.
  • lovehate2lovehate2 Posts: 4
    Hey Yogi,
    Most likely problem is that a large power cable has a bad connection. You said that all worked right up to that moment, odds are more likely that it is a simple problem not major ie, starter etc. "KEEP IT SIMPLE" should always be your first investigative step. Make sure that the power is actualy getting to the starter/relay. Even if the cable connection looks good take it apart and clean it first, then move on to the next item in line to your problem.
    love hate
  • Pulling out on a highway a couple of months ago tach went way up to 4500+ slammed back down and up again, truck running fine. It keeps going all over the place, truck running fine. Even had the truck at the dealer to get keys made, and they fried the computer which they replaced along with 3 new keys and a new right mirror, that poor service guy, and they didn't even know my name. Anyway the only complaint I ever had with the truck was the doom light would not stay on from day 1 you know showing it off and all, He even mentioned there was something about the light staying on. Well now the light works the truck still runs fine, but the tach is wierd today driving 70 mph tach around 4500 to 4700 again truck run great. My concerns are will is send wrong info to computer ? Is the tach just a visual thing thats just presenting info received ? Where does it get its info from ? And how can I fix it or does it even matter ?
  • im new to the diesal game and have a2001 dodge with a 24 valve cummins turbo and somtimes my turbo cuts out when im pulling or going up hills and when i first start it and take of its fine then i lose my boost pressure but my fuel pressure stays the same if i let off for a second or two it kicks in again thanks for listening andthanks for any help
  • 97 ram 12 valve 4x4. Recently have been experiencing hard starts with this truck. 319,000 miles never had problem like this before. Sometimes have to cycle starting procedure many times and pumping accelerator pedal like crazy before the engine will fire and run. It's almost like the fuel system is leaking down and has to re-prime the system before it fires. the truck always fires after multiple starting cycles though. Sometimes i go to start it and it fires right up normal. Any thoughts would be appreciated, i was thinking maybe the lift pump was going? Thanx in advance!
  • oly2oly2 Posts: 9
    edited September 2011
    I had the same problem on my 96.I had the FUEL SHUTDOWN SOLENOID RELAY REPLACED WORKS FINE NOW. I only had 195000 on mine.
  • If it has excessive white smoke after hard starting, I would be suspicious of the intake heater not coming on long enough. This could be a relay, or a other solid state device. Your model was standard with a Mechanical Lift Pump on the engine, and if you are either loosing prime, or the pump is weak, this could also contribute to a low supply pressure to the injection pump.
    You say "Sometimes have to cycle starting procedure many times and pumping accelerator pedal like crazy before the engine will fire and run." Pumping the accelerator pedal will have no effect on fuel delivery, as there is no "Accelerator Pump" in this fuel system. holding the petal to the floor should be just as effective, if not better.
  • FUEL LIFT PUMP RELAY DRIVER CIRCUIT
    by tominhaiti
    Nov 01, 2011 (9:31 am)

    Had a 2005 Cummins shipped to me in Haiti. When we finally got it out of customs it would not start. Ran fine stateside. I'm not a mechanic but want to try and steer the Haitian mechanics in the right direction (and keep them from tearing the engine apart as they wanted to do). Truck was drained in Miami of fuel.

    The fuel pump relay is not getting power. A mechanic stateside sent me a six page diagnostic test that I don't understand. Where's the FUEL LIFT PUMP RELAY DRIVER CIRCUIT? Fuel pump works.

    Other problems - dash gauges do not work, and ABS pump runs all the time so we removed that fuse for now. Could it all be related?

    Sure do appreciate any help. Our old truck hit a horse a few days ago and is totaled. Driver OK. Horse not so. Without transportation.

    Tom
  • sounds like you have an injector or two that is leaking down, slow cranking (by bat) will make it not start. i f it starts when jumped ( man tranz) and not when cranked by bat. then that sounds like the issue, I would check that out.
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