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Isuzu Trooper Maintenance and Repair



  • jmiejmie Posts: 1
    I aquired my Isuzu Trooper (2001) with 104,000 miles on it. When I am driving at low speeds (under 40) it sounds like I am driving on a VERY rough road. (vibrates with a low roaring sound) It clears up once I have reached speeds above 40mph. Someone told me this is the differential going bad. (this is NOT a 4 wheel drive SUV) The transmission sometimes slips as well but I do not know where to check the fluid nor where to put it if it is low. Someone also told me it is a sealed tranny. If so, do I drain it and where do I refill the tranny fluid after draining? :( I cannot afford a mechanic as I have recently gotten a divorce and am starting all over again so money is an issue. I need to keep this SUV for as long as I can since there are no other options. Anyone got a clue as to what is happening with it? Please let me know. Being a woman I am not totally clueless and am able to change out brakes and other low tech things, so working on it myself is not a problem.
  • heartlanheartlan Posts: 2
    How hard is it to replace the radiator on this vehicle, 3.2 v6 auto? Should I replace the upper and lower hose at tha same time? Is there good place to purchase a new radiator online?
  • I know the message is old now, but I recently had the same problem on my 2000 Trooper. From what I can tell, it appears that the exhaust tailpipe is rubbing against the underbody. The rubber hanger seems to be deformed (after I had some other exhaust work done). Probably getting a new hanger may solve the problem. You may also want to check the jack "hide-away" compartment to see if the the jack or bar have become loose and are rattling away back there.
  • I just got a 95 trooper, and when i drive it, air comes through the air vents. I turned off my ac and fan but that dosent seem to stop it. I'm just wondering if this is a problem that i should worry about or not? also by the gas pedal under the dash after about an hour of driving it gets hot im not sure if its over heating or what?
  • marni94marni94 Posts: 1
    I had a 2000 Trooper LS I loved dearly, but when I lost my job I sold it for the $$. A few months later with a new job, I saved enough to buy a 1995 Trooper LS. Let me start by saying I know practically nothing about cars, but have had to learn some because I need this vehicle in order to get to work and back, so please, any responses would be appreciated in plain English :-)

    It was running fine, but had almost overheated a few times. I kept my eyes on the fluid in the radiator, topping it off whenever it looked like it was getting low. I don't know where that water is disappearing to - I cannot see any leak when I park it, but I'm no mechanic.

    Over the weekend, I was stuck in stop and go traffic for about 2 hours due to construction. The temp started rising. And rising. When I was only a mile or so from home, I got real nervous, pulled over at a hair salon, asked if I can use thier sink to get water, let it cool a bit, and added water. I keep an old windshield washer fluid bottle in my car filled with water to give you an idea of the capacity I was putting in. I put in the bottle I had with me (I assume a lot of it evaporated as steam) and then 1 more full one from salon (still a good amount evaporated in steam) then about a half of one with no steam.

    Next day, 20 mile trip to work, temp started rising, but it drove fine. About 10 miles into drive, it started chugging a bit. When stopped at a stop light, I could hear a gurgling sound as if the water in the overflow was boiling & bubbling. I didn't open the hood at work to see, as I had to get in, but when I left, I checked radiator and topped off water. It did it again after about 15 miles or so.

    Any ideas what is causing it? Is it something I can fix? Cost? I am pretty handy with tools, just need the instructions and any warnings...

    Any ideas, info, speculation would be much appreciated. I just started getting back on my feet after a long unemployment drought, I am a single woman with no trust fund (just a glimmer of hope I win the lottery) so I really could use some assistance to make sure I still have a vehicle to get to work. I don't need to go anywhere else...

    Thanks for your help, all!
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    First of all, you need to flush your radiator and put new 50/50 coolant ASAP. Only add that stuff from now on. I haven't done it yet myself (2002) but I was looking into it and it seems easy to drain it utilizing the plug at the bottom of the radiator.

    Do you notice any smoke going out the tailpipe? Do you see any film on your windshield? Can you smell any fumes (non-gas) inside? Maybe it's just me but it seems like the coolant is getting into your cylinders (not a good thing.)
  • I have a 2002 Izusu trooper. 6 months ago, I started to get a check engine light and reduce power light. I took it to the mechanics where they clean the throttle. After having the same problem again various times, they changed the cabling. Six months later, I started to have the same issue. They clean the throttle again and it continue with the problem. Found later that the cable to the throttle was loose. They tightened it and it started to to it again two weeks ago. Again they tightened it again and it I still has issues. When ever I go into a bump on the road, I get the lights. I don't think the cable keeps getting loose every time. Would there be another issue going on?
  • 2002 Troopers have electronic throttle control (drive-by-wire), so this "loose throttle cabling" just doesn't make any sense...
  • That's right. I believe they told me it was wiring and connections to the Electronic Throttle Control. I wish I remember the three codes that I was getting. I believe one had to do with the throttle Control housing, the other one witth a throttle sensor and the other has to do with the cables.
  • rodp2rodp2 Posts: 3
    Sounds like you are experiencing torque converter shudder. I added a bottle of Instant Shudder Fixx By Dr. Tranny (2 oz.) My torque converter shudder istantly went away and hasn't come back.
  • rodp2rodp2 Posts: 3
    I have added Shudder Fixx twice and the shudder keeps coming back. Has your shuddering returned?
  • Try - they have great prices and any easy search interface.

    Search under the extras tab - not the specific drop-down for Isuzu but for all cars. Then select Exhaust : Pipe : Inner & Outer Braid Flex Pipe

    I chose a PCI Part # 542 Flex Pipe Coupling - w/extensions, 2" diameter (8" overall length).

    To install I then:
    (1) cut out the bad flex pipe just outside the weld beads
    (2) used an oxy-acetylene torch to remove the 2 bolts on the right down pipe.
    (3) fit the flex pipe to the down pipe and other crossover pipe loosely.
    (4) loosely reassembled with a new gasket on the down-pipe joint
    (5) assemble 2" U-clamps on the ends of the new flex pipe with a thin layer of muffler cement
    (6) line everything up - you may have to rotate the flex pipe if it is not perfectly straight, especially to get the pipe flange lined up nicely and avoid stress
    (7) snug everything up.

    Note that the flex joint ends can be welded too but everything is tight to the transmission at least with a 5-speed and push button 4WD. The TOD option appears to use slight different piping per parts manual I looked over.
  • rodp2rodp2 Posts: 3
    Anyone know how I can find out the plug size and thread size on a transmission plug for a 2001 Isuzu Trooper SL? I am trying to purchase a drain plug with a valve from
  • Bet your muffler and or pipes are loose
  • I have an 88 Trooper ii I bought 6 months ago 4c 5 speed 4x4 115K miles.
    Im really impressed with and enjoy. Yesterday I was getting ready to go enjoy the weekend in the mountains, and never had a problem with the Trooper before , I went to start engine and it started and ran at idle for about 5 or 6 secs, then died, I tried several more times , same result. Also had low fuel,oil,o2,and brake lights on dash.
    I read in here several threads about vacume leaks and throtle body cleaning.
    I started by taking vacume lines and cutting about half an inch off of each line then realized the lines were in way to bad of shape { dry rot }, so went and bought about 15ft of Vacume line, replaced all. Then Pulled the tubing between Throtle body and aircleaner and cleaned with carbcleaner, then I pulled the battery cables , cleaned cables and battery posts. tried starting it , took several tries , then it started and idled without dying, but dash warning lights still on, turned off and on again and warning lights are gone, idle surged hi then low and did this for a few minutes till I realized I had switched two vacume lines by mistake, now it purrs and has better acceleration than before and now idles were it should. Was very stressed last night reading in here on it , but am very happy now, thanks all.
  • bellwestern80bellwestern80 Posts: 2
    edited May 2011
    I picked up a 2000 Isuzu Trooper from a local car dealership a few days ago with around 179K on the odometer. When I got it home, it began and misfiring shook terribly while in gear, so I took it back and they replaced the right rear fuel injector and replaced the spark plugs (for free as a courtesy), and the engine ran with out all the hesitation and loss of mid-range power. Now the shaking is back, not as bad, but it happens while idling and while accelerating (Cruising in the lower RPM bands is fine). It also makes a louder acceleration noise while, but during the test drive it was nice and quiet. I'm not sure if a motor mount could of gone bad since the engine was firing so erratically before and causing shaking, but I don't want this car to become a money-hole, especially in the expectation for a cheap, older car. A few other things I have noticed is the fuel does smell a bit stale and it is 1,500 miles overdue for an oil change. I am not currently driving it until I swing it past Jiffy-Lube for the oil change. Does anyone have any idea what is causing the shaking now? Could it be the timing belt?

    Notes: It's a Trooper S with 2 Wheel Drive.
    It has the 3.5 V6 Engine with Automatic Transmission.
  • thanks to your reply to faraidun, I was able to fix my problem. my transmission would work fine until the check transmission light would come on, then it would go into safe mode. as you said i jumped the computer and got code 49. it took forever to find out what that was, but it turned out to be the alternator was putting out high voltage. i replaced it yesterday and now everything works great, the belts dont even squeal now.
    i found the code translation at:
  • I bought my Tropper used last summer. It has about 250k miles on it, but runs really well.

    However, recently the batter warning light on the dash has come on and I am experiencing some strange accelerations issues. Almost like a cylinder or two isn't firing. It goes away if I let the car warm up for a while, but the light stays on.

    The batter is only 6 months old and was brand new when I put it in.

    Alternator? Plugs and Wires?
  • tomtom13tomtom13 Posts: 1
    Try the oxygen sensor.
  • The problem was a misfire due to aged coil packs. The repair took longer since the engine was GM sourced, so it had to be moved from the Honda dealer I bought it at.
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