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Isuzu Trooper Maintenance and Repair

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  • I just bought my dream vehical, a 2001 Trooper from a buy here pay here get screwed here place. I have always wanted one since my dad was going to buy one in 99', but never did (idiot).
    Anyways my question is the transmission will almost like clunk into gear from a dead stop. I read how to check the level of fluid in the transmission by pulling the fill plug. Did that and a lot of fluid spilled out, I say almost a quart if not. I took it to an Isuzu dealer and they told me my front pump seal was bad and causing me to lose fluid. They than proceed to tell me that it was not under warnanty. But I thought these vehicles came with an 10 year 120,000 mile power train warnanty. It only has 80,600 on it. Also when I shift it from 4high to 4low it kinda clunks in, than when shifting out the lights will blink for two wheel drive mode for a little while. I do the reverse than forward, and it seems like its out, but not sure. If anyone knows what this could be with my tranny, would greatly appreciate it. And if you know how to fill the transmission fluid back up, that would be great too. :)
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 837
    Was the engine running when you pulled the plug? IIRC, you warm up the tranny, cycle through the gears then pull the plug with the engine idling to check. To fill, if low, you would then use some sort of tube to get the fluid to that fill hole. It is full when it comes up to the level of the fill hole.

    The 10 year, 120K mile warranty is for original owner or family member. Less for non-family second owners. Might have dropped to 5 yr, 60K miles.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, Congrats on buying your Trooper.

    Your post inidates a clunk when putting it in gear, but some backlash is normal when engaging or reversing trans gears and transfer case gears. There have been some complaints about loose or missing flex plate bolts, but you should hear something obvious when in park or neutral based on what I have read here. I am not sure where and what you read on checking the trans fluid level, but it is a little more tricky to get it right than the method you used. Find below the manual instructions. Note that the trans was just running and warm (not hot) when the fluid level is checked. This can be dangerous as you are under a vehicle that has been running, so safety blocks (chocks) on the wheels are a must, as well as the parking brake, and watch out for hot exhaust pipes. You will have to figure a way to get the fluid into the open overfill opening. There are manual pumps available, but I use the conical spout found on differential fluid bottles with a length of clear plastic hose pushed on it; by inverting the container and squeezing the fluid can be pumped through the tube into the trans pretty easily.
    As for the front pump seal; were you seeing a fluid leak before you drained trans fluid? If you were, then it could have been a seal but if your trans was overfilled (not sure until you check the level properly) then some leakage may be expected. If it turns out that your fluid level is OK and you are still getting clunks, it will be a judgement call on your part as to how much you can tolerate. If you search the entire Trooper forum, not just this thread, you will find lots of info on similar complaints.
    Good luck! One owners opinion.

    CHANGING TRANSMISSION FLUID
    There is no need to change the transmission fluid unless the transmission is used under one or more of the following heavy duty conditions.

    Repeated short trips
    Driving on rough roads
    Driving on dusty roads
    Towing a trailer If the vehicle is used under these conditions, change the fluid every 20,000 miles (32,000 km).
    Place a large drain pan under the oil pan.
    Here is pic from underneath.

    http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/trooper/2001truprautotrancheck1.gif/page- /photo.html#pic

    With the vehicle level Remove the transmission oil drain screw (2) and drain fluid.
    Tighten drain screw (2). Torque: 38 Nm (28 ft. lbs.)
    Remove the transmission overfill screw (1) and fill transmission through overfill screw opening, using DEXRON (R) III ATF. NOTE: Add transmission fluid until it flows out over the overfill screw opening.
    Let engine idle until a fluid temperature between 32 °C (90 °F) and 57 °C (135 °F) is reached.
    Add transmission fluid until it flows out over the overfill screw opening, then close the overfill screw (1). Torque: 38 Nm (28 ft. lbs.) NOTE: Check transmission fluid temperature with service scan tool.
  • Thank you everyone who has giving me info on this issue. I have taken it to a mechanic and he belives it to be the front pump seal as the Isuzu dealer said or could be a bushing on the torque converter. In any case I am looking at spending about $600.00 on fixing it. However right now it is running good and seems to have been just over filled with fluid. We keep you posted and let you know the out come of it. Again thank you for the information.
  • I have a 2000 Isuzu Trooper with the 3.5L V6. When I first press down the gas pedal I get some hesitation but if i hold down the gas pedal it smoothes out after a second...it only does this with the initial acceleration like from a dead stop not if i push the pedal down while driving. I have completely removed and cleaned the EGR valve, MAF sensor, and changed plugs and air filter. Also I keep hearing a rattling sound when the engine is cold and i first accelerate but it also goes away after i get some speed up. I crawled under while it was running and checked the exhaust with a glove and didnt seem to find any exhaust leaks, although that is where it sounds like it is coming from.....Can anyone give some suggestions?
  • (2001 Troop, 4WD,Auto)
    Ok, my transmission check light came on and flashed when I pushed the 4WD Auto button a few months ago. It would go off when I'd turn off the 4WD Auto button.

    After reading about 1000 posts on the Internet I figured it was going to be speed sensors or some other costly fix.

    I got my oil changed and tires checked and it still would come on and not function.

    However, just today I decided to try again, and everything is working fine. Anyone know why it would have just "fixed itself"? Could it have been a result of my oil getting changed and it just took a few days to "kick in"?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Thought this might help with the clunk explanation:

    2001 Isuzu Truck Trooper LTD 4WD V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Technical Service Bulletins All Technical Service Bulletins Drivetrain - Driveline 'Clunk' Explanation

    Drivetrain - Driveline 'Clunk' Explanation

    Information IB05-05-S005

    Driveline Clunk

    ISSUE DATE April, 2005

    Affected Vehicles
    All Isuzu Vehicles.

    Service Information

    Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, Drive and Reverse, or while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released.

    Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have.

    The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a build-up of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline.

    For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline.

    In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:

    ^ Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.

    ^ While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, see you are covering all the forums! Here is Isuzu info on gremlins with no apparent cause:

    2001 Isuzu Truck Trooper LTD 4WD V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Technical Service Bulletins All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Inspect Connectors for Various Malfunctions


    Electrical - Inspect Connectors for Various Malfunctions


    Information IB05-04-S005

    Inspection Of All Related Wiring Harness Connections
    When Diagnosing Miscellaneous DTC's, Intermittent
    Driveability Concerns, Hard Start, No Start, Incorrect
    Gauges, Inoperative Air Conditioning Systems, Service
    Engine Soon Lamps Illuminated, 4WD Lamp Illuminated,
    Instrument Panel Gauges Inoperative, Cruise Inoperative

    ISSUE DATE: SEPTEMBER 22, 2005

    Affected Vehicles

    All Isuzu Vehicles

    Service Information

    When servicing a vehicle for any type of customer concern, the following steps are imperative. Inspect and ensure the integrity of all related wiring harness connectors. If the wiring harness connectors are not properly put together or engaged before they are locked together, numerous types of intermittent conditions may occur, which may include any of the symptoms listed above and possibly others.

    The first step in any type of electrical diagnosis is a visual and physical inspection of the wiring harness connectors for integrity. Many times, the vehicle may be repaired just by disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors. As with all repairs to wiring harness connectors and terminals, a pull test of the terminals within the connector should be performed. A pull test is performed by inserting the proper size terminal test tool (not a paper clip) into the terminal to determine whether or not the terminal is making good contact, or whether the terminal has been damaged from the prior improper connection or lack of connection.

    NOTE : Most terminals used in current module connectors (ECM, BCM, and the like) are small O~64 mm sq terminals and can be damaged by probing with the wrong tool

    For example, if the Connector C2 of the engine wiring harness to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is not properly seated into the PCM:

    ^ The cam lock lever may close improperly.

    ^ The cam lock lever may even snap out of position.

    ^ The vehicle may have an intermittent condition with any one of the components which are controlled or monitored by the PCM.


    THE CAM LOCK LEVER IS DESIGNED TO PULL (OR ASSIST) THE CONNECTOR INTO ITS FINAL POSITION ONCE IT HAS BEEN PRESSED STRAIGHT INTO THE PCM HEADER PAST THE INITIAL DETENT, ALLOWING THE LEVER TO BE MOVED INTO THE LOCKED POSITION. It is not only a retainer but an assist during the connection process. When the wiring harness connector is properly connected to the PCM, a snap will be heard when the connector is in position to be fully seated. The cam lock lever may then be closed. The cam lock lever will then do its designated job as both an assist and ensuring the connector does not come apart due to vibration or other types of conditions found in vehicles as they travel down the highway.

    Remember, if a terminal (metal) or the connector (plastic) is damaged, they should be replaced. DO NOT replace the complete wfring harness assembly. Some harnesses are now on order restriction since most harness damage can be repaired.

    Replacement Terminals can be found in the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit, which is available through Kent Moore at 1-800-654-6333.
  • Thank you so much. I really do appreciate that and now I am a little more at ease. That was very helpful as now I don't have to worry to much about it. However I still have to have my front pump seal as I am losing a little bit of transmission fluid. Other than that the Trooper runs great especially the 4WD system as I was using it today in a drainage ditch. Thank you for all of the information.
  • I RECENTLY PURCHASED A 1999 ISUZU TROOPER AND THE ENGINE SEIZED DUE TO A SUDDEN LOSS IN OIL. WHAT SHOULD I DO?
    SOME SAY THIS IS COMMON. IF I OVERHAUL IT WHAT CAN I DO TO IMPROVE THIS ENGINE TO HELP PREVENT THIS AND OIL BURNING?
    PLEASE ADVISE. dchoy40@hotmail.com
  • IF I MAY I HAVE ANOTHER QUESTION ABOUT MY SEIZED 3.5L ISUZU:
    WHO MAKES A REALLY GOOD OVERHAUL KIT FOR IT?
    ANYBODY ELSE HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM? :confuse:
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, there is a long history of complaints about oil consumption by the isuzu 3.5 engine. You should do a forum search to see the history of owners with concerns about oil consumption. The factory allows for up to a quart of oil for 1000 miles as normal. As for rebuild kits, most name brand kits are adequate and generally priced competitively when compared to factory parts.
    I looked through the technical service bulletins and found the following which is an excerpt and a link to the factory form:
    http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/trooper/oilform1.gif/page/photo.html#pic-

    1999 Isuzu Truck Trooper V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Technical Service Bulletins All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Oil Consumption Usage Testing/Reporting


    Engine - Oil Consumption Usage Testing/Reporting


    TSB SB04-01-S004

    Engine Oil Usage Testing and Reporting
    (This Bulletin Supersedes IB00-01-S002)

    ISSUE DATE: OCTOBER 2004

    Affected Vehicles
    All Isuzu Models.

    Service Information

    This bulletin has been revised to include new detailed procedures when completing the new updated Engine Oil Usage Test/Report. Please disregard information found in Isuzu bulletin IB00-01-S002.

    Before performing any warranty repairs, based on a customer's complaint of excessive engine oil consumption, the Engine Oil Usage Test/Report shown must be completed in full.

    The updated Engine Oil Usage Test/Report is divided into two parts, PROCEDURE # 1 and PROCEDURE # 2.

    Procedure # 1, the inspection and testing portion of the Engine Oil Usage Test/Report, are eligible for warranty submission. Procedure # 1 warranty claim may only be submitted ONE time per vehicle. Review Procedure # 1 Results and perform the appropriate action. Complete all steps in Procedure # 1 before continuing on to Procedure # 2 (if required).

    Procedure # 2, the validation portion, is NOT reimbursable under warranty. Complete all steps in Procedure # 2. Review Procedure # 2 Results and perform the appropriate action.

    The Technician, Service Manager and Customer are to acknowledge the findings by signing and dating the bottom of the Engine Oil Usage Test/Report. Attach a copy of the completed report to the back of the Repair Order (R/O) hard copy and provide a copy to the customer.

    NOTE: 1. Normal authorization procedures must be followed for such repairs.

    2. Information released on paper and electronic format prior to bulletin release cannot be updated. For the most current and up to date information refer to IsuzuONE.com.


    ENGINE OIL USAGE TEST/REPORT FORM

    This Service Bulletin is intended for use by professional, qualified technicians. Attempting repairs or service without the appropriate training, tools, and equipment could cause injury to you or others and damage to your vehicle that may cause it not to operate properly.
  • 1996 Isuzu Trooper V6 DOHC
  • :cry: I got my 1994 trooper back from getting tranny rebuilt. The car drove perfect until I was on the parkway and it started to lose power. I pumped the gas and could reach a high speed until I got to a hill. Still pumping the gas I made it. :sick: What gives- no noise- no check engine lite- just no power. i was using 89 gas. I was getting poor gas mileage too. 67miles to $15 gas @2.29/g. Could it be as simple as a fuel filter? I was thinking if it was an O2 sensor the check engine light would have come on. A friend driving behind me told me black smoke was coming out of the tailpipe. They told me to check and make sure my wires were secure and they were. I love this truck pls any clues? :confuse:
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, when the water pump was changed, it was necessary to remove the belt, which meant removing the fan, loosening the PS pump and removing the harmonic balancer and removing the timing belt cover. Now, if they only changed the water pump, and did NOT remove the hydraulic tensioner that keeps pressure on the timing belt, then they did not disturb the oil pressure system. If they did remove the hydraulic tensioner, it has to be correctly reinstalled or a leak can result. They did not have to remove the tensioner to change the water pump, but they should have "pinned" it when they removed the belt. If they were not careful in removing the harmonic balancer, they could have nicked the seal that it slides through, and that could result in a leak. In moving the power steering pump aside, they may have loosened or damaged a line. The PS fluid is automatic trans fluid, I think, for your year trupr, but you should check to verify whether it is or not. Identifying the oil type will go a long way towards eliminating possible problems.
    Not related to changing the pump, but there was a camshaft seal that the factory issued a service bulletin about, but I would think it would be OK since you had not noticed a problem prior to the pump change.
    I am not a pro, but I have the same motor. Hope this helps, good luck.
  • My 99 Trooper has been a little sluggish to start in the last week or so. Our battery is only a few months old but last night my husband had to jump it off to get it to start. He added some water to it and had a parts store fully charge the battery. It didn't need much of a charge. However, now it won't even take a jump. We've tested the battery again this morning and it is fully charged. All connectors are clean. There is a clicking sound when we try to start it but nothing else happens. He said it could be the starter or the solenoid. Do you happen to know how to determine which of these it is? He is under the Trooper right now and he can't figure out how to get the starter out without removing the exhaust but we hate to do all of that if it isn't even the starter so I'm hoping to help narrow down the problem some. Any help would be greatly appreciated. We need a miracle because this thing needs to be running by tomorrow.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, if the solenoid is basically a magnet that is energised by the battery when the ignition switch is turned to start. When the solenoid is energised and travels to the crank position it also completes the circuit and supplies power to the starter motor to crank the engine. The solenoid must stay "in" in order to crank. If you are sure the battery is good and that the terminal connection at BOTH ends, starter included, then you can attempt to jumper the starter at the solenoid. If you can, and it cranks and starts, then it could be the starter relay or the ignition switch, but I doubt those. If the solenoid continues to click, then my guess would be the solenoid ( which should either be on or off depending on key position. A bad connection will definitely make a difference in its functioning. That is why cleaning and tightening the terminals at the starter is important to do before trying anything else. Unfortunately, it is a lot of work to do just the solenoid, and it is probably more practical to change the starter and solenoid than to just do the solenoid only to find out it was the starter motor too.
    The cranking system employs a magnetic type reduction starter in which the motor shaft is also used as a pinion shaft. When the starter switch is turned on, the contacts of magnetic switch are closed, and the armature rotates. At the same time, the plunger is attracted, and the pinion is pushed forward by the shift lever to mesh with the ring gear.
    Then, the ring gear runs to start the engine. When the engine starts and the starter switch is turned off, the plunger returns, the pinion is disengaged from the ring gear, and the armature stops rotation. When the engine speed is higher than the pinion, the pinion idles, so that the armature is not driven.

    The manual says you have to remove the exhaust, but sometimes it is possible to snake it out. I have never done it, but maybe?

    1999 Isuzu Truck Trooper V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Starting and Charging Starting System Starter Motor Service and Repair Removal and Installation
    Removal and Installation
    Removal
    attery ground cable.
    Disconnect Heated O2 Sensor connector (1).
    Remove exhaust front left pipe (2).
    Remove heat protector (3).
    Disconnect starter wiring connector from terminals B and S (4).
    Remove starter assembly mounting bolts on inside and outside (5).

    Remove starter assembly toward the bottom of engine (6).
    Installation
    Install starter assembly (6).
    Install mounting bolts and tighten bolts to specified torque (5). Torque: 40 Nm (30 lb. ft)
    Reconnect the connectors to terminals B and S and tighten Terminals B to specified torque. Torque: 9 Nm (80 lb. ft)

    Install heat protector (3).
    Install exhaust front left pipe and tighten bolts and nuts to specified torque (2). Stud Nuts Torque: 67 Nm (49 lb. ft) Nuts Torque: 43 Nm (32 lb. ft)

    Connect Heated O2 Sensor connector (1).
    Reconnect the battery ground cable.
  • I have a 1990 Trooper 2.6 4cyl. My mechanic and I are at a loss. It seems that we shall have to tear the motor apart to find the problem...and neither of us wants to do that.
    When the problems set in I assumed that I had done a poor job replacing the head gasket the year before. I had the head shaved, and remounted it. The problem persisted. I then took it to my mechanic and told him everything that I had done. He tinkered on it for a while...replaced some sensor, and then told me that it was ready. The problem was only lessened. Then I developed a new problem which forced me to park it.

    Here's what happening: The problem first started suddenly....within a city block. It started to buck me...like it was missing or something. It was smooth enough until I tried to accelerate quickly. Then it would complain and buck. I could accelerate very slowly up to about 35mph, then it would complain all the time...I couldn't go any faster. I noticed some coolant leaking at the back of the block. So, since that's where the gasket blew last time, I assumed that it had blown again (didn't have the money to do it right the first time). I took off the head, had it planed, and put it back on....no change. BTW when you idle and then rev the motor, you can hear it complain just as if it was under a load. Changed the sparkplugs (JIC)...no change. Changed fuel filter...no change. Took to my mechanic. Fuel pressure is fine. Confirmed my compression is fine. His man changed a sensor (don't know what), and they said that the head probably needed a few hundred miles to properly seat. It would buck a bit until then...but I had when I revved it a little higher (3~4k) the power to drive at higher speeds (didn't push it past 70). Okay...in actuality it still ran like crap.... but it would run. I did so for 2 days...then I started blowing smoke. Turns out that the smoke came from oil jumping out the dipstick onto the exhaust. Took it back in to my mechanic, he said that apparently I had a lot of blow-by. There is seemingly a lot of pressure on the dipstick. That's where I am. It is now parked and I am not driving it.

    I am suspicious of the vacuum system or the EGR system, but there is not much to read on this, so...it's little more that a guess. My mechanic was pondering if I put the head gasket on backwards. I looked a the old one....it is keyed in such a way to make it impossible to put it on wrong. When I put the head on I took my time. I was certain to make it free of particulate, and chemicals (used acetone).

    New or recently new parts: Head gasket, intake gasket, exhaust gasket, cap & rotor, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, o2 sensor, cat, muffler, air filter.

    I have not yet reset the o2 light. Computer says nothing's wrong. Added a bottle of Seafoam to fuel to try to clean injectors (I've used it in the past too).

    Any and all comments are appreciated. There's going to be a lot of snow this year, and I really would like to have it running...if possible.

    Thanks

    Curt
  • :) Just to let you all know about my loss of power-I had my boyfriend test drive it- It was my light touch of the pedal. I went from a chrysler lhs to a trooper cause I loved his so much and the lhs was fast. I almost forgot that the trooper weighs 4300lbs! I rode with him while he- blew it out- and now its a 4300lb speed demon. I love my trooper! :shades:
  • I have the same problem with my '92 Trooper. As for a weekend mechanic being able to tackle this , yes. I found the problem to be part availability. My Trooper was manufactured in the early part of 1992, so it has a different part (speed sensor) than the later models. If you can get the vehicle up on ramps or jack stands, the sensor is mounted on top of the transmission (mid way back I seem to recall). The sensor is easier to change than the drive gear.
    As for the O2 light. At 80K miles the light comes on, the method to get the light out is to remove the instrument panel, and move a screw (mid panel on back)from the 'A' hole to the 'B' hole. At 160K miles move it from the B-to-A, and so on and so on. I changed out my O2 sensor, still had the light, disconnected the battery, still had the light, hooked it up to a code reader to zero out the O2 code, still had the light, saw an obscure reference to moving the screw from hole A to hole B, and the Light went out... problem solved.

    Hope this isn't too late in addressing your issues, I just joined.
  • I sympathize! My daughter bought a 99 Trooper in June 06. It was a oil monster and we had to fill it every other time we filled the gas. We tried all types of synthetic oil, seafoam, and other recommended fixes. We had the pc valve replaced. After the replacement at an Isuzu dealer, the Trooper wouldn't start and we invested $800 in a new starter. My daughter drove it out to Boulder CO where she goes to school, equipped with a case of oil. She called me yesterday to tell me the Trooper 'died'. She was towed to a service station and was told the engine ceased and she'd have to replace it with new or used. This would not be cost effective since we paid only $6000 for it. It's in great shape otherwise and I'm trying to figure out if I can sell it for parts (new tires, 6disc cd player, new starter). Problem is I'm in MN and my daughter and car are in CO. She can't be carless but that's another issue.
    So, if you or anyone knows someone who is willing to pay for some used parts, I'd love to hear from you!!

    Sue
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Just a reminder - this is not the place to buy and sell used parts. Try ebay or some other venue. :)

    tidester, host
  • My 2001 Trooper S with automatic transmission, has been misfiring. When I have been driving for a while it will start all of the sudden. The vehicle only has 81,000 miles on it. I have a bad egr valve that sometimes sticks I guess as the check engine light comes on and the diagnostics says its insufficent flow to it. Any clues why it would be misfiring? I had a real bad misfire the other day where I heard a loud clunk and the check enginge light started to flash. :confuse:
  • Thanks for the post. I changed out the O2 sensor and reset the light by moving the screw to the b position. Thought that might have solved the problem but noticed the speedometer drop to zero and than back to the correct speed while I was driving yesterday. Where did you find your replacement part. Thanks
  • I have a 91 Isuzu Trooper, 2.8 TBI, 4X4, 5spd.
    Two problems:

    It will turn over and start but stalls in about 1 second.
    It takes about 10 tries to get the truck to start. I have to keep my foot to the floor or it won't start.

    Once it starts, I still have to keep my foot to the floor as it runs real rich (black exhaust) until the revs get up to 3-4K rpm. Then it clears up.

    It does this every time I try to start it, warm or cold, even if I turn it off and immediately try to restart.

    Problem 2:
    Once it starts, it idles at around 2K rpm.

    If I block the air feed to the IAC valve, I can get the idle down to around 850 rpm. I replaced the IAC valve, but there was no change. TPS is correctly set to 5.0 vdc (key on, engine off) also.

    I've checked all the vacuum lines and sprayed WD40 around the base of the TBI without finding any problems. I checked the brake booster also.... no change.

    Intake manifold gaskets were replaced last summer.

    This problem started two nights ago after the truck sat for a month. Made the 60 mile trip home, high idle and all.

    The high idle still sounds like it could be a vacuum leak, but I have yet to find it. Don't know if the hard starting is related, but I assume it is.

    Help!!!.
  • matausmataus Posts: 43
    Hello Everyone….!

    First of all, I want to say that it is GREAT to find a Trooper forum running around out there. This forum was quite difficult to find. It’s a great pleasure to meet you all!

    6 months ago, I purchased a 1991 Isuzu Trooper 4x4 5 speed manual Trans with a 2.8 litter 6 cylinder. The truck it in excellent condition! It’s the beautiful color of red with nearly perfect interior with no dents or scratches. When I first purchased it, I went out of my way to have a bunch of stuff done it to make sure everything was up to par. I changed all fluids. I.e.: oil, manual trans fluids, flush and fill coolant, engine flush, fuel system flush, break fluid, AC, etc… I also had the breaks done all around, new tires, new ac compressor end dryer, shocks, and tune-up with new plugs/wires/roter/distributer cap. I look at all of this as to be preventive medicine. Always better to be safe then sorry.
    I do have one problem though that maybe you all can help me resolve. I live here in Denver Colorado. And being in the mountains, there are its challenges when running up and down in the hills. The problem I have is horse power. Not to long ago, I brought my children up in the mountains to go camping. We had a blast! It was the first time I was able to run my truck in four wheel drive! It went everywhere anyone else could go and not more! I was really amazed by its performance! The unfortunate problem I have it when the truck is running high end. When I shoot up into the mountains via the highway, I’ll hit around 65 mph. Once I start to hit any kind incline (and the incline doesn’t have to be much), my truck starts to bog down. I will be going 65 mph in fifth gear, and then I will have to work down into fourth, and so forth. My truck holds up great in first thru third gear. It is nice, but I find myself holding traffic back because I am not able to increase my truck speed up “any hill” at fourth or fifth gear. I am boggled by this. Could it be a sensor of some sort? Oxygen or Map sensor? Everyone tells me that my truck is just old, and I will just have to deal with it. I do try to keep that in mind, but when I’m running up any kind of incline or inner city hill, and see a U-go (however you spell it), or an old Datson passing me bye, I have to wonder if there is maybe a problem here. If there is anyone out there who can help me in anyway with this, It would be GREATLY appreciated…. Oh, and by the way, I have so many people come up and ask me about my truck. They've never seen one in such great condition! There doesn't seem to be any nice ones running around out there these day! It's to bad, I love my Trooper!

    Maddy
    :confuse:
  • matausmataus Posts: 43
    I messed up when I said my truck went everywhere anyone else could go and "not" more! I meant that it goes everywhere anyone else can go "AND" more. Sorry about that.

    Maddy... :sick:
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,417
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  • :D Hey I glad you love your trooper too! First off I'm no mechanic but I had a similar problem after I had my tranny rebuilt. my boyfriend said "press the gas to go!" But after he drove it he went over his rebuild. I think he said he replaced a solenoid,passing gear and a valve was stuck open. Now my trooper passes everybody. I don't know if this is your problem but for me the rebuild was worth it. Luckily the labor was free since it was my boyfriend. I absolutely love my trooper. I hope this helped& good luck! :shades:
  • panzerpanzer Posts: 125
    I've been a Trooper owner in Colorado for 10 years. You are getting what I think is normal performance for an early trooper. Just be glad you have a stick shift. The automatic would be worse. I had a '95 with the automatic, it needed second gear sometimes to get over Eisenhower from the west side, particularly with the family and luggage in it.
    Heavy truck and not much power. On the other hand, it can be run 5000+ rpm for as long as it takes to get over the hill. You will not find a better big SUV for off-road though. I had a 2001 Trooper for 3 years with the 3.5 motor that had a lot more power than the 95 and got the same mileage. Our 95 Trooper is now in St Louis with my daughter at 150k miles and it seems like it may be about time for an overhaul, or possibly adios. I guess it's time to pay for all the hard use it saw in Colorado. It's getting about 11 mpg, steadily coming down from about 16 over the past year. Otherwise runs good and uses no oil to speak of.
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