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Toyota Yaris Engine Questions

yaris46yaris46 Posts: 24
I live in Florida so I have the LUXURY of being able to dump ALL my cooling fluid and replace it with a mixture of 15 percent Glycol, distilled water AND WaterWetter. I have dropped engine operating temperatures significantly. I will be able to provide EXACT temps shortly but it looks about its a 20 degree drop. GLYCOL transfers heat VERY POORLY so the less you can use the better. IF YOU LIVE WHERE IT GETS COLD YOU MUST HAVE FREEZE PROTECTION. WaterWetter ADDS to heat transfer making the cooling system more efficient.
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Comments

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    making the engine run cooler also makes it consume more gas. Not generally a good thing.

    But what is Water Wetter, and why can you use it only in Florida?

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • yaris46yaris46 Posts: 24
    Exactly where did you ever get misinformation like that? A HOT ENGINE requires a higher octane fuel to prevent preignition. Thats why high performance engines need Premium fuel. An engine that runs cooler needs less octane AND PERFORMS BETTER. WaterWetter is used at racetracks across the country. Racing engines use NO GLYCOL since Glycol does not transfer heat efficiently. I simply brought up Florida since if for example you live in Wisconsin you will need at least a 50/50 mix in your cooling system. In Florida I don't need to worry about freezing so I can greatly reduce the amount of glycol in my cooling system. I suggest you check out REDLINE products. They make IMO the best synthetic oil and manual transmission synthetic oils in the world. I use Redline in my Jetski but at 9 bucks a quart I stick with Mobil 1 on a 12K car.
    http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp
  • yaris46yaris46 Posts: 24
    Just a quick update on oil filters: FRAM IS TRASH
    The company is so good at marketing that people actually think its a quality filter. Oil filters utilize filter media to "filter" the oil. Fram has some of the least filter media of ALL filters. Factory OEM filters are generally decent quality but there are ALOT of filters that are far superior to OEM. I personally use Mobil 1, Porolator PURE ONE, ans I used to waste my money on K&N and Amsoil filters. Believe it or not the Wal Mart brand filter actually performs BETTER than many name brand filters.Check out the reviews on the "quality" Frams!
    CHECK OUT THIS:http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

    http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html
  • I have posted so many oil & filter study links I almost have cramps. Wait....I DO have cramps! In the end, I fully AGREE that FRAM is JUNK, period. But it is simply beyond me why anyone, even some no good CHEAP no good rotten so & so would skimp on such cheap insurance! BUY the OEM filter while in warranty. Change it yourself, go to Walmart, whatEVER! But PROTECT yourself. USE OEM WHILE UNDER WARRANTY! If you ever have a warranty claim, TRUST me.....I had to decline more claims than you can imagine based on the use of NON documented maintenance work. Or, results based upon "evidence" of sub standard crap installed somewhere else. PROTECT yourself.
  • I got magnets on sale! :-) :P
  • yaris46yaris46 Posts: 24
    If that were the case than using Mobil 1 is a liability. I forget the name but there is a landmark case that DOES NOT ALLOW MANUFACTURERS TO DENY WARRANTY CLAIMS SIMPLY BECAUSE YOU DON'T USE THEIR PARTS. I agree, if you go to JIFFY LUBE and have a 35 cent oil filter and some low budget Dino oil installed, then the manufacturer can deny warranty. If the parts or components are of OEM QUALITY OR BETTER then there is no cause for concern. God if this was the case you would be stuck going to the dealer for EVERYTHING. Thats EXACTLY what they want you to think.
  • lhansonlhanson Posts: 268
    I give up, what does the term "Dino" mean?
  • yaris46yaris46 Posts: 24
    Dino is a term used for petroleum based oils. Synthetics now dominate the performance car markets and the term generally used for the "old technology oil" is Dino.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    Oh dear, I see you are a true enthusiast. Well, let me rephrase: for regular folks driving their cars to and from work, gassing up with the regular unleaded and going home to park their cars in the driveway and forget them until morning, making the engine run cooler will merely cause the ECU to enrich the mixture more than it otherwise would, causing the car to waste gas.

    The Yaris is already designed to run on 87 octane. Aint none lower than that available at the gas stations in my state - perhaps there is in Florida? If you have some source for 85 or 82 octane unleaded and you want to trade in a bunch of expensive chemical additives to make the engine run cooler, thereby tossing out the low-cost-maintenance advantage of this car (which would otherwise require no coolant changes for a long time), just so you can see some slight gain in performance, more power to you. Literally! :-)

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • yaris46yaris46 Posts: 24
    Where do you get this information? Do you have ANY DATA documenting that the ECU will inject more fuel into a car simply because it runs 20 degrees cooler? This ain't rocket science, a cooler engine LASTS LONGER. Why do you think people spend THOUSANDS on OIL COOLERS and LARGER RADIATORS for heavy use vehicles? TO COOL THE ENGINE. As for cost effectiveness I NEVER stated that my maintenance approach is cheaper. ALL MY CARS are treated the same: Synthetic lubricants wherever they can be used. Do you use synthetic? Are you familiar with the properties of synthetic oils VS Dino? Synthetics "bind" to the cylinder walls and all engine components, allowing for LESS WEAR DURING STARTING. Synthetics also allow for people like myself who p[ut 30K-40K yearly on a car to extend oil changes. MANY SYNTHETICS can go for 25,000 miles before there is ANY DEGRADATION.
    I personally WASTE MONEY and use Mobil 1 w/Mobil 1 filter every 5K. I also expect to hit over 300K on my vehicle. Since there is a TIMING CHAIN on the 1.5 my PRIMARY CONCERN is providing the best lubricants available in order to acheive over 300K on a 1.5 liter motor.
  • Just trying to warn you ......if ANY failure can be assigned as "related", Heaven help you. As for Mobil 1 oil? It comes standard in a lot of cars OEM. Think you missed my point but I DO understand what YOU are trying to say as well.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    Hehehe. Oil coolers and larger radiators? Sure, on 1-ton pick-ups used for towing. You do know the Yaris weighs like 2300 pounds right? :-)

    I just wanted to make sure a balanced view got onto this thread, that's all. Do all that stuff you love if you want. The Toyota 1.5 is one of the most durable engines they make - I am quite sure that with maintenance by the book, it will go 300K miles with or without the synthetics and whatnot.

    It is fun to baby your car.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • yaris46yaris46 Posts: 24
    I was simply pointing out a common sense analogy towards the question of whether or not running an engine at cooler temperatures has any benefits. I mean C'MON! A third grade kid knows that HEAT degrades EVERYTHING. That includes OIL, RUBBER, ELECTRONIS, PLASTIC, and METAL. In other words all the materials under the hood of your car! Frankly I could give a Rats Behind if people go to Jiffy Lube! Where BTW YOU WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY.
    I just spent an hour on the phone with Toyota tech support. I was given a case number and it simply states that the owner has informed Toyota that he is using FULL SYNTHETIC LUBRICANTS in his car. Toyota HAS NO ISSUE REGARDING WARRANTY CLAIMS, as long as you keep proper records and NOTIFY them that you are switching to SYNTHETICS.
  • yaris46yaris46 Posts: 24
    Just a quick FYI: I contacted Toyota Customer service and informed them I was using Redline MT90 and Mobil 1 oil and filters. Toyota created a case number for me and explained that since I have contacted Toyota and its now documented that I use Synthetics and will CONTINUE to use synthetics, my warranty cannot be voided. The key is to CONTACT TOYOTA and obtain a case number documenting the transition to synthetics. You also need to keep detailed records which is nothing more than common sense.
  • Not to bad mouth anyone, I do my own maint on all my vehicals, and this is why, got my Yaris on the 1st of Aug 06, went 100 or so miles, checked tire pressure, 29lbs (low) checked the oil, quart and half overfull, there was no windshield washer liquid, my point is it is really hard to trust anybody to do basic maint on your vehical. Love the car though! ;)
  • yaris46yaris46 Posts: 24
    BTW: Whats the best tire pressures for this car?
  • sorry took so long to reply, inside the door jam has the recommended pressures, but the cold press on my tires is 44lbs, the door jam says 32lbs, I put 35lbs in all 4, seems to give good stability, and it is very important in the gas mileage game to keep them properly inflated, and if anyone is going to purchase one of these cars, HOLD OUT for a manual transmission!! people who are complaining about poor gas mileage more than likely have auto trans and they are driving them like a huge heavy SUV, imagine an egg under the gas pedle, monitor your tire pressure frequently, dont over rev the engine, dont oversteer at highway speeds and you will get the results I am getting, 42.3 mpg! ;)
  • lhansonlhanson Posts: 268
    I agree with everything you say except the 35 lbs. If the cold pressure is 44 lbs, then why not put it up to 42 lbs, they still won't go up to more than 44 even when hot. If you are driving on snow and ice (not much of a concern now)you might want to lower it a little bit for better traction. Your ride may be a little bumpier at 42 lbs, but who cares when we are maxing out our MPG. I have been getting 38.4 MPG in town with my MT Yaris hatchback driving just like you say.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    the manufacturer's recommended tire pressure isn't purely random - they are attempting to maximize TRACTION (which will definitely decrease if you run around with the tires at 44 psi) and tire life (which will also be affected), in addition to fuel economy.

    I might go 10% higher than the recommendation (which would be 35 in the Yaris), but not more, for those reasons. Usually I just follow the manufacturer recommendations.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

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