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Toyota Yaris Engine Questions

2

Comments

  • 845 pounds TOTAL passengers and luggage. Wife was reading 323 KGS. Funny, she isn't blond either..... :P
  • This is not really an engine question, but hey I didn’t want to start a new discussion. :)

    I took my Yaris to my dealer for the first free oil change and was very happy with the service. I have a second one coming in a few weeks. (Free as well, I paid sticker but got a second one free as part of the deal! Hey, I did better than some!) I am seriously thinking about letting the dealer do all my normal service! I know that is crazy, but they are quick, nice and close.

    My question is do they really do more during a normal service than somewhere else? Is it worth the extra dollars to let them do it? Would it really be worth it to take it to them on the normal (about every 5,000 miles) service schedule?

    I am not going to do my own work, but I'm not mechanically inept either, I just don't have the time, but I might have the money if I thought it was beneficial? Comments please...
  • statstat Posts: 19
    While you're at it, why don't you just give them ALL your money and let them handle it for you? They can keep tabs of your remaining balance as they deduct what they need for your servicing every 5k.

    That's what I did. I mean, it's SO convenient, I don't have to balance my checkbook anymore. I just go to the dealer and they tell me what's left in my account.

    Now the kids are happier. The wife is more content with life. We should all have our cars serviced by the Dealership more often.

    :shades:
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,692
    that is a SERIOUSLY heavy amount of sarcasm to respond to a question like that with. I take it you have had some bad experiences?

    I have found a few things to be true, which has led me to do a lot of servicing at the dealer:
    1. most routine servicing is about the same price at the dealer as elsewhere, give or take a $20 or so, which I am in a financial position not to really care about. Also, since my dealer also washes and details the car at every service, it's worth an extra $10 to me anyway.

    2. If they somehow screw up the servicing, they will stand behind their work much more than most independent shops, and certainly MUCH MORE than the corner Jiffy Lube or gas station.

    3. If it's a service where you have to leave the car, every dealer I have ever been to has had either loaner cars, on-site rentals, or a shuttle that will both drop me off and pick me up, and usually some combo of two or more of those.

    Now, can you get a faster oil change at the Jiffy Lube? Yes, definitely. In and out in ten minutes beats the heck out of the dealer's express 29-minute dealie, which usually is more like 39 minutes. I don't mind, but that's just me. I cruise the lot checking out the new models. :-)
    And they also do the wash and detail, like I mentioned, at my local dealer. And check all the underhood fluids.

    Also, for major repairs, you can usually get a significantly better price at independent shops than the dealer - as for whether or not you will get the same caliber of work quality, it varies shop to shop (and dealer to dealer, as they are certainly not all equal either).

    Oh, final note: I don't typically follow the manual when it comes to every minor service. That WILL wind up costing a fair amount of extra money, IMO. I do intermediate servicing at 15K miles, a major service every 30K, and oil changes at 5K intervals with tire rotation every 10K. Once I'm out of warranty, it just gets the one big service every couple of years or 30K miles (with oil and tire rotation at the usual intervals in between), which has always proven sufficient for my driving pattern.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • Thank you nippononly, that was very informative, unlike the other jerk...

    Your schedule sounds about like what I had in mind. And I agree with you, I’d don’t mind paying a few extra dollars for minor service that has benefits.
  • statstat Posts: 19
    Who said anything about Jiffy Lube?

    I'm an advocate of FULL SERVICE. That's why I chose to direct deposit ALL my payroll checks into local service dept's account.

    I WANTED THE TOYOGUARD and Pinstripes and VIN etching. I wouldn't have had it any other way. I'm not going to leave my baby exposed to the elements.

    Heck, I even have my gas pumped at FULL Service fuel stations.

    87 Octane? NO WAY!! Not for ENTRY LEVEL my mode of transportation. I baby it with SUPER PREMIUM high grade 99 Octane. Sure, I could save a couple measley cents by running across the street where they just sell regular gas, but I choose the service station with the ULTIMATE Gas Guarantee. This way, if my clown car ever goes bonkers, I know they'll stand behind the Gas they sell and replace my engine for FREE.

    I even take my car in to service everytime I need my mirrors adjusted (just so that they are accurately calibrated with the X and Y axis).

    It's just like the old proverb: You get what you pay for. And that's why I ALWAYS Pay more for Good, QUALITY, GUARANTEED products and service. I'd rather be POUND WISE and PENNY FOOLISH.

    Can you believe some moron actually once told me to BUY LOW and SELL HIGH? I say: BUY HIGH and GET MORE FOR YOUR MONEY. Tell the cheapskates to stay at home. :P
  • tjw1308tjw1308 Posts: 296
    Wow... and you guys give me grief for MY sarcasm :P

    T
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,692
    Now there has been even more sarcasm! That guy has missed his vocation, I think, unless he is a comedian.

    A couple of other notes as to what I wrote:
    1. that schedule works for me because I drive the car about 18K miles per year, and a lot of my miles (more than 50%) are on the highway at full speed. If you do mostly rush hour driving, or you drive way less miles than me, then you may want to adjust your schedule accordingly.

    2. One thing you DO have to watch out for at dealers: some dealers have a list of "recommended services" that so far exceed the manufacturer recommendations that you can really overspend. If that is the case at your local dealership and there is no convenient second choice dealership, then for any services that are not just oil changes or tire rotation, you can either
    - bring the owner's manual in with you each time you leave the car, and just have them do what is shown in there, which may cost you less (paying a la carte, instead of their combo price for extra services), OR
    - call ahead and price out just the services you want (again, using the manual) and then call a good independent shop and get a quote from them, and compare prices.

    One thing that can be very beneficial with Toyota servicing is to use Toyota parts, rather than aftermarket parts. So if you give the dealer a miss, you may want to still ask that the place you DO go use Toyota parts. Any place worth their salt will do so upon request, and it shouldn't cost much more.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • OK, thank again. I drive about 20,000 MPY, 80% highway. You did a great job answering my questions. I'm not going to throw my money away, but I thought I'd give my local dealer a shot to do some simple things and see how it goes.
    Again, I don't mind paying a FEW extra bucks for quality and honest service. I live in a small town, and people come from the big city just to deal with my dealer. Believe it or not there are some good ones out there...
  • Uh, your a jerk. Go stick your head in a oven. It might save us all....

    Kiss my :P

  • statstat Posts: 19
    I'm a jerk for encouraging you to buy premium gas and have ALL of your servicing done at a dealership?

    I guess you're also the type to slap a baby for smiling at you?

    :P
  • Troll troll.......how droll. :blush:
  • I dont know if the rest of you guys have been seeing this, but sometimes my engine gets stuck at 3000 RPM just randomly and doesnt come down for a while while making a loud buzzing noise. Even though it goes away after a while, its sort of weird, especially given the car only has 7000 miles on it. What do you guys think (I drive the automatic sedan)?
  • yaris46yaris46 Posts: 24
    I assume the post regarding TOYOGUARD was a JOKE?
    If not then PLEASE UNDERSTAND thats the BIGGEST SCAM CAR DEALERS use to make money on HIGH DEMAND VEHICLES. TOYOGUARD does NOTHING. The warranty is WORTHLESS. People actually think that TOYOGUARD PROTECTS THEIR PAINT and if the paint gets DAMAGE THAT TOYOTA WILL REPAIR IT. TOTALLY FALSE.
    TOYOGUARD IS NOTHING MORE THAN A POLYMER PROTECTANT. WANT PROTECTION?
    WWW.ZAINOBROS.COM FOR POLYMER
    WWW.ARMOURFENDUSA.COM FOR ACTUAL PAINT PROTECTION
    As for the interior 2 cans of scotchguard at a cost of 10 bucks protects the interior.
    I change my own oil and filter because I know its done PROPERLY AND I USE THE PROPER PRODUCTS.
    FULL SYNTHETIC MOBIL 1 AND EITHER A PUROLATOR PURE 1 OIL FILTER OR A MOBIL 1 OIL FILTER. THEN REGULARLY CHECK YOUR AIR FILTER AND BASICALLY THATS ALL THERE IS TO GETTING 300-400K OUT OF THIS ENGINE. I ALSO SWITCH MY MANUAL GEAR OIL TO FULL SYNTHETIC REDLINE AS WELL.
    The YARIS is the easiest car I ever owned when it comes to oil changes. It takes literally 5 minutes to change my oil. ITS DONE PROPERLY WHEN I DO IT. I CAN AFFORD 5 MINUTES TO MAKE CERTAIN THE JOBS DONE RIGHT.
    Bringing your car for oil changes is like RUSSIAN ROULETTE.
    You never know who is doing the work or WHAT OIL AND FILTER IS BEING USED.
    HERE IS A LINK REGARDING OIL FILTERS. AS SHOWN FRAM FILTERS ARE AMONG THE WORST FILTERS MADE. GUESS WHAT MOST SHOPS USE WHEN THEY CHANGE YOUR OIL?
    PENNY WISE DOLLAR FOOLISH? I SUGGEST SPENDING YOUR MONEY ON QUALITY OIL FILTERS AND FULL SYNTHETIC OILS (NOT BLENDS) AND CHANGE YOUR OWN OIL.
    A SET OF RHINO RAMPS ARE 20 BUCKS, JUST DRIVE YOUR CAR ON THE RAMPS AND DRAIN YOUR OIL. PLACE A PLASTIC BAG OVER THE OIL FILTER AND UNSCREW IT. THE OIL WILL FALL INTO THE BAG ALONG WITH THE FILTER. NICE AND NEAT!!
    HERES THE LINK ON FILTERS:

    http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
  • tjw1308tjw1308 Posts: 296
    You know, I agree 100% about it being essentially worthless.

    Here's the problem: PEOPLE KEEP PAYING IT!!!

    If you don't understand why dealers keep charging it when people keep paying for it, I dunno what to tell ya.

    We currently don't have a prep package like that. We DO however, have a $5000 "Chrome Wheel" package that goes on all of our automatic FJ Cruisers. Are the wheels worth $5000? OF COURSE NOT! Do people pay it? THEY SURE DO!

    The bottom line here is, if you don't want it, don't BUY it. If enough people stop, IT WILL STOP. If people keep paying it, don't blame the dealers.

    We aren't the Red Cross. We want to make as much $$$ as we possibly can, but most importantly, we want to make as much as you will LET US.

    Everyone, including dealers, knows how worthless things like Toyoguard are.

    But Toyoguard allows them to make money on cars they'd otherwise have to give away. Especially when people come in waving invoices and wanting full retail for their trade...

    If you don't want it, don't buy it.

    T

    :)
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,027
    A friend of mine bought a "S" packaged sedan with an automatic. I have to say the Yaris is more impressive than I expected it to be. The 1st thing I noticed was how roomy its interior and trunk is. I would say it has as much or more room than does my '99 Corolla. It was also quiet and seemed to have enough pep (though I'm sure the stick is peppier, and I prefer a stick anyway). The Yaris has the sound and feel of a much more expensive car. I love the way the suspension felt, firm yet still fairly smooth riding. Steering response is also excellent. Those are the two things about my Corolla I absolutely can't stand. The Corolla has a very soft and sloppy feeling suspension, and the steering response it's much better, if any.

    I could definitely go for a Yaris, but I can't see going into debt for one when my Corolla is bought and paid for, and with only 93K miles, it's just getting broken in.
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,027
    ....where'd everybody go?
  • Hi

    My name is Jesse Brenneman. I JUST bought a Yaris yesterday, and am amazed by the comfort, the drive, and the looks.

    However, this morning, my key sort of stuck in the ignition position. I mean, it didn't automatically kick back to where it normally does. So I went to move it back myself, and the engine turned itself off before I could touch it. I was thinking maybe it sensed something was weird and shut itself off. So I waited a minute and tried again. This time it started nicely, but the "check engine" light came on as soon as it did. Weird.

    Next, I put gas in it, and the gas cap wouldn't click when I tightened it. I tried like 10 times, but got cold so gave up.

    I was wondering if anyone else had experienced similar problems.

    Thank you.

    Jesse
  • That is weird. Please let us know the diagnosis after you have it checked out.

    On the subject of engine lights and gas, here is another weird one. When I picked up my new liftback last week the salesman made the comment that they have had problems with engine lights coming on for customers who use BP brand gasoline. He recommended using any other brand and kind of endorsed Speedway brand. Has anyone else ever heard such a thing?
  • 1) Are oil filters readily available at Wally World and most chain parts stores now?

    2) I can't find a recommendation for the interval to change the AT fluid in the manual.
  • lhansonlhanson Posts: 268
    I believe that it uses the same oil filter as a Toyota Echo.
  • Yes, just what it says. Bought my 2007 Hatchback Automatic in RED back in Sept.06 and got 4800 on it now. The flashing "maint. required" tells me I need to change the oil (between 4500-5k). From reading these post's, I guess I'm NOT going to put in a FRAM Oil Filter. I guess I CAN use synthetic Oil. I also think I'm going to let Toyota know I'm changing over to Synthetic Oil (for records) and there after. I DID NOT see any mention though (unless I missed it somewhere else?) on the viscosities that are being used for Oil/s. Should I go with what it says in the Manual? Also, just for info. I've seen on this forum on gas mlge., I do about 400 miles a week, drive all hiway and cruise about 70-75 miles per hour and I'm getting about 38 mpg. Better than 10 with my truck!! Hey, anyone know where to pick up a pair of rain guards for the front windows? I know they got them for the sedans but not the Hatchback ..yet.....unless they do and I can't find them.
    Thank You,
    sambo42xa
    (1st. time user on Forum)
    New Hampshire :)
  • My 2007 Yaris (bought in June) is perfect...I love her!

    But, I do notice that she's slow to start in cold weather. She turns over several times, then finally starts. And one it took awhile and black smoke came out.

    Anyone else having this problem? We've had relatively warm weather so far, so I'm a little nervous about when it's way below freezing!

    (I also have the transmission thing that others talk about here...)
  • yes, as a matter of fact i have noticed this. also, my car (when in netural at traffic lights and such) seems to 'shake' a little. i dont know, its hard to explain, its like when i start letting off the clutch in gear and not hitting the gas and it starts the beginning stages of stall out.

    anyways, i took it to the dealer to address both issues, and they said nothing was wrong. so i guess slow starts in the cold is just a fact of life w/ the yaris. i wouldnt worry
  • Like you, I just recently bought a Yaris (I've had it for about 2 weeks now)...

    It drives great; however, earlier today, the "Check Engine" light came on for some unknown reason. I'm not sure what the deal is -- considering that I drive my car (on average) like 5 miles a day at most (back-and-forth to school).

    My last car was an absolute dud of a Toyota Camry and was CONSTANTLY breaking-down with little, fluke problems. I'm really hoping that this whole "check engine" thing isn't a sign of things to come... :(
  • dcd5dcd5 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 ECHO coupe, manual, and I'm looking at a base model used 4 door Yaris Sedan, auto, to replace it. It is coming from a private seller and only has 11000 miles on it. I test drove it and the only "negative" thing I noticed was that the engine was really putting some heat out when I checked under the hood after the drive. Is this normal for this car? When I tested my ECHO after similar driving, the engine is no where near this warm (and I believe the engine is very similar). Could it be the difference between the manual and auto transmission?
  • While driving this morning, my Yaris was suddenly filled with smell of gas. I had to open the windows. I looked at the gas indicator. The last bar was blinking. I saw two bars like five minutes ago. Is this normal?
  • While driving this morning, my Yaris Sedan was suddenly filled with smell of gas. I had to open the windows. I looked at the fuel indicator. The last bar was blinking. There were two bars like a couple of minute back. Is this normal or a sign of problem with the engine?
  • Just out of curiosity, do most people use the one- touch start function, or hold down the key in start like a normal car? I was wondering if the switch lasts longer when you let it do it's thing.
  • As for the gas smell, I would immediately do a visual check under the car and under the hood! If you can smell it you should be able to see it wet or dripping somewhere, it's not really an engine problem, but definately a safety concern if a fuel line is leaking. Good Luck P.S use a flashlight instead of a lighter to check for fuel leaks!
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