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Toyota Yaris Engine Questions

24

Comments

  • lhansonlhanson Posts: 268
    Wouldn't the money saved on gas more than make up for the decreased tread life, especially if we are not laying rubber on take off, accelerating in and out of traffic, tailgating, not anticpating red lights and slamming the brakes at the last second (all this is done in order to take 1 or 2 minutes off a morning commute). We are not talking NASCAR here, if a tire is rated at 44 psi, we should be able to safely run it at 42 psi. I am sure that the tire manufacturer is padding his rating by at least a couple psi for liability purposes.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    42 to 44 psi, most of your tire's contact patch is barely touching the ground. You ever seen tires where the center line of the tread is worn smooth, but the outside parts of the tread are still almost new? That's what your tires will look like after 18 months if you keep them pumped that high. And as far as water dispersal and traction for stopping and starting, you might as well put bicycle tires on the car.

    But yes, you will make 10-20% better fuel economy, probably. Which will save you probably $100-200 per year (at 12,000 miles per year), for which you will pay by going through your $300 set of tires maybe twice as fast as you otherwise would, costing you around half your savings. So is saving $50-100 per year worth compromising your tire traction? It's a decision only you can make.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • Just a little tidbit I heard about tire wear, did you know that as a tire is rolling on the road, it actually stops for a split second, and that split second is the reason tires wear out, makes ya go hmmmmmmmm. Anyway I am dealing with EXTREME heat here in Texas right now and thats why I dont go any higher than 35lbs in the tires, maybe as it cools off here I will add 2 or 3 more lbs in em.
  • lhansonlhanson Posts: 268
    The following link would seem to indicate that you are right and I am wrong. The 32 PSI on the door trumps the 44 PSI on the tire. I just find it hard give up that much tire capability knowing what it will do to my MPG.

    www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/TireSafety/ridesonit/brochure.html
  • I use 34 psi cold, it seems to be working fine, also used nitrogen to fill tires, the molecule is alot bigger than O2.
    alot less room for error. also on door car has gvwr 3280 lbs
    what does it really weigh?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    is the TOTAL weight the car can carry, including its own weight. The curb weight of the Yaris with a manual transmission is 2293 pounds. That is the weight with nobody and nothing in it. If yours is an automatic then it weighs about 40 pounds more when empty.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • The scariest thing about this car to ME, is that with myself & my wife, add a 30 pack of beer and we are OVER the GVRW rating...... :sick:
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    Ummmm...lucy, that would make the two of you about 800 pounds combined, man. No offense meant if that is actually the case. The car's payload is about 800 though.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • tjw1308tjw1308 Posts: 296
    No offense here either, but exceeding the GVWR would explain the gas mileage too...

    :P

    j/k

    T
  • I'll have to recheck the manual. According to it, the load weigh capacity was a mere 425 pounds. I'll whip out the old bifocals and look again....
  • 845 pounds TOTAL passengers and luggage. Wife was reading 323 KGS. Funny, she isn't blond either..... :P
  • This is not really an engine question, but hey I didn’t want to start a new discussion. :)

    I took my Yaris to my dealer for the first free oil change and was very happy with the service. I have a second one coming in a few weeks. (Free as well, I paid sticker but got a second one free as part of the deal! Hey, I did better than some!) I am seriously thinking about letting the dealer do all my normal service! I know that is crazy, but they are quick, nice and close.

    My question is do they really do more during a normal service than somewhere else? Is it worth the extra dollars to let them do it? Would it really be worth it to take it to them on the normal (about every 5,000 miles) service schedule?

    I am not going to do my own work, but I'm not mechanically inept either, I just don't have the time, but I might have the money if I thought it was beneficial? Comments please...
  • statstat Posts: 19
    While you're at it, why don't you just give them ALL your money and let them handle it for you? They can keep tabs of your remaining balance as they deduct what they need for your servicing every 5k.

    That's what I did. I mean, it's SO convenient, I don't have to balance my checkbook anymore. I just go to the dealer and they tell me what's left in my account.

    Now the kids are happier. The wife is more content with life. We should all have our cars serviced by the Dealership more often.

    :shades:
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    that is a SERIOUSLY heavy amount of sarcasm to respond to a question like that with. I take it you have had some bad experiences?

    I have found a few things to be true, which has led me to do a lot of servicing at the dealer:
    1. most routine servicing is about the same price at the dealer as elsewhere, give or take a $20 or so, which I am in a financial position not to really care about. Also, since my dealer also washes and details the car at every service, it's worth an extra $10 to me anyway.

    2. If they somehow screw up the servicing, they will stand behind their work much more than most independent shops, and certainly MUCH MORE than the corner Jiffy Lube or gas station.

    3. If it's a service where you have to leave the car, every dealer I have ever been to has had either loaner cars, on-site rentals, or a shuttle that will both drop me off and pick me up, and usually some combo of two or more of those.

    Now, can you get a faster oil change at the Jiffy Lube? Yes, definitely. In and out in ten minutes beats the heck out of the dealer's express 29-minute dealie, which usually is more like 39 minutes. I don't mind, but that's just me. I cruise the lot checking out the new models. :-)
    And they also do the wash and detail, like I mentioned, at my local dealer. And check all the underhood fluids.

    Also, for major repairs, you can usually get a significantly better price at independent shops than the dealer - as for whether or not you will get the same caliber of work quality, it varies shop to shop (and dealer to dealer, as they are certainly not all equal either).

    Oh, final note: I don't typically follow the manual when it comes to every minor service. That WILL wind up costing a fair amount of extra money, IMO. I do intermediate servicing at 15K miles, a major service every 30K, and oil changes at 5K intervals with tire rotation every 10K. Once I'm out of warranty, it just gets the one big service every couple of years or 30K miles (with oil and tire rotation at the usual intervals in between), which has always proven sufficient for my driving pattern.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • Thank you nippononly, that was very informative, unlike the other jerk...

    Your schedule sounds about like what I had in mind. And I agree with you, I’d don’t mind paying a few extra dollars for minor service that has benefits.
  • statstat Posts: 19
    Who said anything about Jiffy Lube?

    I'm an advocate of FULL SERVICE. That's why I chose to direct deposit ALL my payroll checks into local service dept's account.

    I WANTED THE TOYOGUARD and Pinstripes and VIN etching. I wouldn't have had it any other way. I'm not going to leave my baby exposed to the elements.

    Heck, I even have my gas pumped at FULL Service fuel stations.

    87 Octane? NO WAY!! Not for ENTRY LEVEL my mode of transportation. I baby it with SUPER PREMIUM high grade 99 Octane. Sure, I could save a couple measley cents by running across the street where they just sell regular gas, but I choose the service station with the ULTIMATE Gas Guarantee. This way, if my clown car ever goes bonkers, I know they'll stand behind the Gas they sell and replace my engine for FREE.

    I even take my car in to service everytime I need my mirrors adjusted (just so that they are accurately calibrated with the X and Y axis).

    It's just like the old proverb: You get what you pay for. And that's why I ALWAYS Pay more for Good, QUALITY, GUARANTEED products and service. I'd rather be POUND WISE and PENNY FOOLISH.

    Can you believe some moron actually once told me to BUY LOW and SELL HIGH? I say: BUY HIGH and GET MORE FOR YOUR MONEY. Tell the cheapskates to stay at home. :P
  • tjw1308tjw1308 Posts: 296
    Wow... and you guys give me grief for MY sarcasm :P

    T
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    Now there has been even more sarcasm! That guy has missed his vocation, I think, unless he is a comedian.

    A couple of other notes as to what I wrote:
    1. that schedule works for me because I drive the car about 18K miles per year, and a lot of my miles (more than 50%) are on the highway at full speed. If you do mostly rush hour driving, or you drive way less miles than me, then you may want to adjust your schedule accordingly.

    2. One thing you DO have to watch out for at dealers: some dealers have a list of "recommended services" that so far exceed the manufacturer recommendations that you can really overspend. If that is the case at your local dealership and there is no convenient second choice dealership, then for any services that are not just oil changes or tire rotation, you can either
    - bring the owner's manual in with you each time you leave the car, and just have them do what is shown in there, which may cost you less (paying a la carte, instead of their combo price for extra services), OR
    - call ahead and price out just the services you want (again, using the manual) and then call a good independent shop and get a quote from them, and compare prices.

    One thing that can be very beneficial with Toyota servicing is to use Toyota parts, rather than aftermarket parts. So if you give the dealer a miss, you may want to still ask that the place you DO go use Toyota parts. Any place worth their salt will do so upon request, and it shouldn't cost much more.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • OK, thank again. I drive about 20,000 MPY, 80% highway. You did a great job answering my questions. I'm not going to throw my money away, but I thought I'd give my local dealer a shot to do some simple things and see how it goes.
    Again, I don't mind paying a FEW extra bucks for quality and honest service. I live in a small town, and people come from the big city just to deal with my dealer. Believe it or not there are some good ones out there...
  • Uh, your a jerk. Go stick your head in a oven. It might save us all....

    Kiss my :P

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