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Chevrolet Blazer GMC Jimmy Transmission Problems

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  • dbarishdbarish Posts: 1
    CHANGED FLUID AND FILTER IN TRANS 99 GMC 4.3 V6 CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYS ON. PARTS STORE GUY SAYS TRANSMISSION CELLINOID. WHAT IS IT HOW HARD TO REPAIR. ANY ONE KNOW
    HELP OUT A SENIOR CITIZEN TRY NOT TO GET ROOKED :cry:
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    What was the code? What was it doing? All the solenoids are accessible thru the pan but could be other parts. Most trans shops will analyze for free and give an estimate. After a high mileage trans filter change I use the newer Valoline high mileage trans fluid which changes about half of it as rest in the convertor and have to drive about 100 miles to strip any residue buildup off the internals.
  • shantel1shantel1 Posts: 3
    I have a 99 Jimmy and after traveling for at least 20 minutes, it will start to jump really hard into first gear when pulling off from a stop sign or red light. If I cut the truck off it will stop and then start again after I have driven for 20 minutes again. The engine light also comes on and then goes off. Does anyone have any suggestions on what they think this may be?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    So, if its the trans hard shifting get the filter and fluid changed and that helps most. Crap gets deposited in the valve body and solenoid valves and trans senses and raises pressure to compensate so hard shift.
  • ctrudellctrudell Posts: 1
    I recently noticed my 93 Jimmy is leaking transmission fluid from a line under the hood. This line is located in the back of the engine compartment on the passenger side. The line seems to be some kind of vent line or something of that nature. It is coiled black plastic with a movable cap which runs to the transmission.

    What is this line and why would it leak transmission fluid?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    The trans and the transfer csae are bolted together and a seal between. Is the vent on the transmission or transfer case? Check fluids in each. Both Dexron red. THe 4wd has a 3 port vac switch on the pass side so look at the lines and see if all connected. The transfer case vent is Teed into the front axle vac line vent port. The transmission also Tees into it and the vent usually runs up the dipstick so no water gets in. Finally that seal can go between cases and the transmission pump can blow fluid into the transfer case and out the vent.
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Posts: 28
    I just bought a 2000 blazer LS 4x4 4.3l.
    Ive noticed that while driving,that it blows hard on take off( blowing hard= you can hear the air blowing hard from motor),will shift into 2nd and quiten down at around 2000.
    it does fine through rest of gears. But if youre on the interstate, it shifts in and out of overdrive. No other strange things noticed. Just in and out. and this gets worse if running the a/c with cruise.
    Hope someone can help me here, or tell me this is normal and its in my head.(LOL) :)
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    They all have the heavy duty type fan clutch and when hot out it starts up in a locked or full on mode but should stop after less than 1 minute. Yours could be bad if it stays on for extended time unless your engine is getting hot (temp gage should be below 210 normally).

    As for the trans is it shifting in/out of 4th gear or overdrive or is the converter locking/unlocking. To see go like 50 mph and put it in 3rd gear and the rpms will jump up as it downshifts. Then back to D or 4th and the rpms will decrease and then a few seconds later drop again as the torque converter locks up - then you know the diff.
    Trans filter should be changed at least every 50k miles and requires dropping pan but under $100.
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Posts: 28
    the fan or the heavy blowing sound does go away. But, it starts every time from take off.
    as for the tranny,it shifts fine most of the time. But,it does come in and out of OD when on interstate, while in cruise, and gets worse with AC on.
  • Ok i just started to have some tranny trouble today
    i checked the fluid its only got 18k on the fluid i had it flushed at 115k 116k i think it was around there
    the fluid is not burnt
    here is the trouble i am having
    all of a suden i noticed it on the way home erlier i dont have alot of power on the get go
    when i first put my foot on the gas i real just hear it reve then it slowly starts to move ones i get moving for a second then i get power but no hevy foot to gas power just semi power
    it runs good its not giving me major ger problems i think the only reason im not getting this is becouse
    when in OD it only wants to be in one gear it dosnt shift then if i manuly shift it it dosnt shift into any gears other then 2nd so i guess D and 2nd is the only 2 gears it works in
    am i in for a [non-permissible content removed] load of trouble and money ?
    or could it be simple like a sensor perhaps
    thank you
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If you have no reverse, 2nd, or 4th then you broke the sun shell in the trans - the weakest part and caused by heavy towing or jerking when stuck or pulling someone or something. The TCI site shows you this part and its a total rebuild - if you lost all 3 of these gears.
  • sorry i forget i still have revers
    i just took it to a tranny shop today they looked at it and the guy im not shur if he knowns exactly what hes talking about but sayd somthing about a sylonoid
    i never knew that there was a sylnoid in the tranny i know they are there for the engine but he sayd in the tranny and its gona cost 200 to fix it im taking it in tomarow im just hoping there isnt gona be more trouble about that after they fix it
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    In the pan each gear shift has a solenoid and also the converter lockup. Thats good as a rebuild is $1500.
  • so dose that mean that they will have to drop the pan and drain the tranny fluid and put new fluid in also ? is that why its costing 200 i didnt think that a part could cost that mouch for a sylanoid maybe they are chargin me for a fluid change also forgot to ask them that ? should i ask them whyll they have the pan out to change the filter also ?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes, pan drop requires like 5 qts fluid and they should be replacing the filter also as it comes in a kit with the pan gasket for like $20. Trans holds like 10 qts and rest is in the converter and unless nasty and burnt not needed to be changed in a total trans flush - some reports say these hurt as much as help and cost another $100 after the filter.

    $200 for repairs sounds good as norm for just the filter is $75-100.
  • cool i just drove it up and droped it off thismornign becouse i had to get a ride home
    its like 275 total that includes the 75 they charged to diagnoisis sayd he was giving me a little bit of a discount on that becouse i have a van there right now that is getting a total rebuil for like 1400 and he did my lincoln a few years ago did the tranny in my continental for like 1450 2 years ago and i was told that was a real good price i think he sayd if i need a full rebuil it would be like 1400 i dont have to pay taxes becouse my nabor ownes a car lot and i use his tax license so that saves a few hundred right there
  • you could do this at home yourself for about half that 200
  • your right i could do this at home myself if i where not disabled i can not get under the car i had back problems and have begining stages of MS and i dont have any tools and id rather right now also pay a shop to do it that way if they mess somthing up there insurance will cover it i dont have 1500 for a tranny rebuild if i messed somthing up
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Posts: 28
    ok I have figured out my prob. Its the trans selector, thats messed up. The 3 button selector for 2Hi- 4hi-4 low.
    I just happened to see it on the way home mon night. The thing shifts in and out of 2hi by its self. I dont know if it goes into 4 wd or not. But, the light will go out, and thats when the trans acts up. It drives fine when it stays in 2wd.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    That would bog things down. Maybe the switch or a bad sensor, 3 port actuator, encoder motor on transfer, or the TCCM (4wd PC) that receives diff voltage signals from the switch to shift.
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Posts: 28
    Ok I took it to the dealer today, and they decided to be nice and fix it on them. After waiting for 5 hours, the manager told me, that It was a mess I had. Turns out, that they found out, atfer they relaced the switch, that actually I have a bad electrical problem in the differential.That they would be keeping it over night, and Ill get it back tomorrow.
    As we were talking I just asked, what if they just unplug the 4wd option and just let it be a 2wd. He being honest, said that that was a last ditch option, but it was an option.I mean I wouldnt ever us the 4wd anyway. Because I dont live anywhere I would have the chance to use it, and by
    the way it has street tires on it anyway.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Think you meant in the transfer case or possibly the front diff. There is an encoder motor in the transfer that shifts the case and these can rust or fail. Then vac swirches and on the front diff an actuator pulls a cable that couples and uncouples the pass side axle. All controlled by the TCCM or 4wd computer in the cab pass side kick panel.

    If its in 2Hi then you could pull the 2 fuses for the 4wd and that should keep you in 2wd forever.
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Posts: 28
    Well, the dealership has had the blazer for 4 days now.
    I called them yesterday, to check on it, because the manager told me that it should be ready then. Its not!!!
    Then he dejectivly told me quote" We have no idea, whats causeing this problem, and probally wont know". That doesnt sound good at all. So, what to do? Would it hurt it to "unplg" the 4wd on it and let it stay in 2wd? As I need this truck, for daily trans. If that wont hurt it, then, I guess thats my only option. Untill I can take it some where else to give another shop a shot. Anyone have any ideas?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    You have a 2000 LS model so assume 3 buttons on teh dash and NO auto function button - if so this is the np233 case part time so that dealer is not very good- this is the easy case. If a 4 button autotrac case np236 its more involved.

    I can't recall if you ever stated the actual problem that started all this. Its either the TCCM (4wd computer - pull the battery cable for 30 min and reboot it)and these also have had moisture in the connector and they do fail, the encoder motor on the transfer case that steps in to engage the front diveshaft and also 4lo if selected, the 3 port vac switch, a bad vac line, the sensor on the transfer case, the sensor on the fornt coupler, the front coupler, the front actuator, or the switch. Also 2 fuses to check.
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Posts: 28
    Ok I got it back!!!!
    The dealer said two things had shortend out, one being the encoder, and another thing(cant remember what it was). But that they couldnt figure out what or where made them short out,so, I got them to pull the fuses for the 4x4 part so it will only run in 2wd.( just hope that by pulling the fuses, that it doesnt screw up the truck).
    Thank you for your help with this.
  • bmorabmora Posts: 1
    Note: New Fluid/Filter changed about 2 weeks ago. Computer has been reset since then. 4X4

    Went for a drive yesterday. Got on the interstate. Very soon after reaching the cruising speed of 60-65. A very unhealthy sounding and loud noise began coming from in or around the transmission. The sound is a little hard to describe but I'll give it a shot. It was kind of a grinding metal gear noise. Kind of what I would think it would sound like if you put a vehicle into park at 60 mph. This "Noise" did not effect the speed of the vehicle or make it bog down. When it started I just took my foot off of the gas and coasted over to the emergency lane while lightly applying the brakes. Once I got down to about 10 miles an hour the sound stopped completely. I got out and saw some tranny fluid coming out from near the Torque converter Dust Cover. It dripped for maybe 30 seconds then stopped (vehicle still running). Got back in and drove 2 exits to see if It would do it again and it did. So getting off at this exit once I came almost to a stop the sound stopped. Continued to head toward my house and was going about 50-55 up a medium incline and the sound started again. So I again stopped and the Fluid did the same thing. Leaked for under a minute then stopped. I made it home the rest of the 8 miles with no problem. Only other time I noticed Fluid leaking was. Once I drove a little to far down the driveway and went over the edge of it so i put it in reverse and had to give it a lot of gas to come back up over the edge. Keep in mind that this edge is only about maybe 1 inch high and its a slight downgrade. Once I got out I noticed Fluid leaking.

    I am fairly experienced with the 4L60-E. My S-10 has the same tranny in which I rebuilt myself about 7 months/15,000 ago. Reverse went out then shortly after it would not shift on its own.

    Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I am not a trans expert but possible front pump seal leak - is the trans overheating (radiator good and side cooling section). Vent os on top so maybe coming out there.
  • gmcrichgmcrich Posts: 6
    I have a Jimmy W/140K miles and it started acting like it was slipping/jerking ONLY when I was in reverse and heavy on the throttle. I changed the filter and made things worse. Now it only seems to have 2nd gear (40mph)and still jerks when I am in reverse. Prior to changing the filter I didn't have any issues with forward gears. I had a hard time squeezing the pan in and out of the exhaust. Could I have damaged or unhooked something by rubbing the pan across it? If I can regain my forward gears I could get by for awhile. Any ideas on what could cause these problems? Any help?
  • gmcrichgmcrich Posts: 6
    I have a Jimmy W/140K miles and it started acting like it was slipping/jerking ONLY when I was in reverse and heavy on the throttle. I changed the filter and made things worse. Now it only seems to have 2nd gear (40mph)and still jerks when I am in reverse. Prior to changing the filter I didn't have any issues with forward gears. I had a hard time squeezing the pan in and out of the exhaust. Could I have damaged or unhooked something by rubbing the pan across it? If I can regain my forward gears I could get by for awhile. Any ideas on what could cause these problems? Any help?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    You probably hit the wiing running thru beneath the valve body and may have nicked it or disconnected a solenoid.
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