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Kia Sedona Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems

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  • I bought a 2006 Sedona with just over 20,000 miles from the used car lot of a Hyundai dealer three weeks ago. It has failed to start (no response from the starter) four times in three weeks, including one morning when I went to pick it up at a Kia dealer's lot after they had "repaired" it. So far TWO new IPM fuse junction boxes have been put in without fixing the problem The last time they "torqued" some nuts on an "electric connection board." After that the car ran for five days and about 20 starts before the starter failed to respond again. This always seems to happen in the morning after the car has been parked outdoors on a night when the temp fell into the thirties or lower.

    Anybody found a solution for this problem when replacing the IPM doesn't work?
  • well i am adding to my statement #93 on this page,i used the van (2003 kia sadona) to travel with this x-mas (stupid) and when i got their the power steering pump went out,on x-mas its hard to find a place open so i went to advance auto parts store and got a pump to try to fix it myself but after getting under it their was no way i could do it.so i drove the van back home (135 miles) without any power steering.while at advance auto i told the employee of the problems ive been having with it not starting after sitting for ten minutes after just turning it off .i told him it will crank over but it wont start.he ask if the check engine light was on and i said yes so he offered to hook up their machine to see what the code said and the code said the cooling sensor was bad.he told me that was the problem with it not starting because that is part of the choke system and it was sensing that it was cold and was shooting it full of gas and flooding it out which makes sense because i would have to wait a few minutes and then hold the eccelerator to the floor to get it started again.so after geting it home i drove it to the kia dealer for service and i told them what the advance auto guy said .i told them that he reset the check engine light and on the way home it came on again and i wanted them to check the light for the code.they did and it came up the same thing ,the cooling sensor was bad.so they changed it out and also put a new pump on for the steering but they couldnt use the one i bought because it was not from kia so i have to return that pump(i hoe the will take it back 150.00).they also found that the steering center rod was bad to so they replaced that as well,all total it was $741.11 to fix everything.the van has 66,000 miles on it so the big special warrenty was crap.it only covers the motor and tranny for 100,000 miles the rest of the van is 60,000 but you know what i would think that these things that went wrong would last alot longer than 66,000 miles.oh well live and learn.no more kias for me.i just hope that this will finally fix the vans problem.if not ile let you all know.
  • Further to my post # 98 - Dealer's mechanic says that the latest start failure was probably because the last time they tried to fix the problem, they removed the STARTER RELAY to test it , but then reinstalled it "backwards". Beats me how this could have kept the starter from receiving power on one start out of twenty-some, but that's their current theory.

    So now it has required three tows, two new replacement IPMs and a reversed starter relay. As of this morning, I'm back on the road, with my fingers crossed for every cold start. If I don't post again here, you can assume this was the final solution for my Kia's start problem.
  • New to the board.

    We own a 2006 Sedona, with the luxury package. We are located in Alberta, Canada. The in service date is March 18, 2006. We love the way the van drives, the power under the hood and the number of features. When the van is running, in my view, it can't be beat.

    However, we have been having numerous problems with getting the van started. The problems started approximately 3 months into our ownership of the van. At first, we thought that we had left a door open or a light on. However, after boosting hte van a couple of times ourselves, we took it in to the dealer.

    Its been at the dealership 5 times. According to the workorders, the problem was first, a loose battery cable (which had been undone by them when performing one of the campaigns on the van); second, an abundance of dialectric grease; third the Immobilizer Transponder, and fourth the IPM.

    The van still has intermittent starting problems. Today we went to go out, and the power sliding side door would not open using the key fob button. It would not open by pulling on the door handle. When I got into the van and put the key in the ignition, there was barely enough power to light the dash lights.

    As I type, the van is on its way back to the dealership. This will be the second trip back since the IPM was replaced. The last time it went in, they techs said they could not find any "codes" from the computer. Further, they said that after they boosted the van, they could not find any electrical components that were drawing "out of spec" while the van was not running. He said that the only explanation was that we had left a door open.

    I found this to be an odd comment because, other than the driver and front passenger doors, all the other doors are power operated doors. Additionally, it would certainly be a remarkable situation to leave a door ajar 7 or more times!

    In any event, if anyone has any insight or suggestions, I welcome their thoughts.
  • Hi Geoff

    I would suggest looking at the IPM again. We had the starting problem which was related to the IPM that told the van to charge the battery. What I learned was the IPM was not only defective but part of the defect was it's failture to not inform the vans centeral computer that it was not operating. we had the same problem whit nothing coming up when the tech plugges the van into the diagnostic computer. Our van would run until the battery was discharged than
    not start.

    Hope this helps

    Terry
  • i am about to phone the dealership to find out what their plan is, so this info might help.
  • My No-Response Sedona died again and was towed for the fourth time this cold morning, after starting flawlessly during mild weather from Christmas through the New Year. Reversing the starter relay apparently wasn't the answer. I can hardly wait to hear what they try this time. Arrrrrghhhhh....
  • Great van for the price when it starts. Dead in my driveway eight times to date. Only has 7200 miles on it. First five times I jump started myself. Last three had towed to dealer by roadside. Can not duplicate when in for service. Does not show up when hooked to computer. Two battery replacements, one junction box to no avail. Also told that I am leaving door open, lights on, charging cell phones, etc. All not true!! After the van sits for as little as one day it sometimes does not start. Three episodes earlier I rushed home from work with a volt meter and battery was down to 3.8 volts. Called California and received a case number sent out their top man. Did not show up on computer equals no problem(for Kia). Making payments on a van that has been in for service a total of 46 days. Feels like I'm getting the run around. Anyone out there having similar problems( I hope not!!), but if you are has it been resolved. Last time in service ticket reads like a routine check, battery, alternator charging system all OK. No excessive amp draw!! To add insult to injury service manager actually said and I quote, "It's a Korean car and has to be started every day" HELP....I would appreciate any help or insight to my problem.
  • We had a similar problem with an IPM module which controls when the van should charge the battery. You don't have a short or a drain on the battery but when your drivving your are using the battery to power the van not the alternator. Their checking the electrical system for a short or thinking your leaving something on draining the battery. Our defective IPM unit also didn't tell the main computer it was not working which is why the main computer says everything is OK. I think KIA finally put out a service message about this.

    Good luck, our van went back to the dealer three times but once the part was
    replaced we haven't had any more problems.
  • Did you have to fight with them to have the module replaced? Showed TSB to service manager and she says they think they checked that issue. Told me they just can't change thousand dollar parts. But if they send her the part she would be more than happy to install it. Now waiting for KIA consumer affairs to call back so I can once again plead my case. Just want my van to be dependable. Tired of all the arguing and heated discussions. Just want what I paid for, a new car that starts every time a want to drive it.
  • Do you have a Lemon Law where your are located. The Kia people in Massachusetts were helpful but felt like they were looking for a needle in a hay stack. I told them I was going to envoke the states lemon law if the third fix didn't work. It was some leverage but I do think they were trying their best.
    Try calling Hyannis Kia or New Bedford Kia and asking the service managers
    the solution they found for this problem. If you can get a couple of Kia service managers talking it may help. I know the main computer not identifying the problem because of the defective IPM was a real problem.

    Good luck

    Terry
  • Mentioned New York Lemon Law in conversation last Thursday with consumer affairs rep. Has yet to call me back. Called California and asked for someone new to take my case. That was over two hours ago and still no call back. We love the the van and just want it fixed! Bought a jump starter for my Disney World trip. Afraid of getting stuck on I-95. This is ridiculous for a new car. I believe Sam is in the same office as the gentleman on my case. Hopefully she can help and get that IPM module replaced. I think they just want me to go away. Anyway thanks for your input. I'll let everyone know if this works out.
  • gatottengatotten Posts: 8
    Yes, I read the entire thread.

    My son's van is having similar problems so we replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump assemblies and installed new plugs, and we still have the same problem....it starts, warms up for about 3-5 minutes and then dies.

    On start up you cannot take the rpm's over 4,000. After the warm up the car won't run. I am amazed that there ars so many Kia's with the same problem. I don't own one and after reading these post - I never will.

    Has anyone found a "root cause" for this problem? We checked the OBD codes and they were vague. It must be a real problem for the technicians because this forum is full of stories about guessing as to which part to change next.

    I cleaned all of the electrical connectors, the MAF, checked the fuses that would affect the fuel supply, and I am now going to clean the ISC and TPS. What a mess!
  • gatottengatotten Posts: 8
    I pulled the MAF connector and started the engine, to put it in LIMP mode. That worked and I have driven the van for about 5 miles and everything worked. I realize that fuel economy (yeah...like this van is economical) will suffer but it allows my son to use the van until I can download and perform some diagnostics.

    Since I am bypassing the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor and the van runs OK, I now suspect that the MAF or the intake manifold may have a leak. I did download the troubleshoooting procedures from kia-tech and I will try those tomorrow.

    I think it would be worthwhile for those of you who are experiencing stalling to disconnect the MAF and see if your van runs OK in LIMP mode. It's not a solution but it makes the van driveable.
  • kashbykashby Posts: 2
    has any body had any engine issues with there sedona. wife was driving on hiway and she said it made some wierd noises, pushed on gas and there was nothing there, and then just died. towed to shop and the mechanic there got it started next day said it would idle but when he took it for a drive (not far) did the same thing. He thinks that the engine is done. any thoughts.
  • jimjimjjimjimj Posts: 5
    have had similar problem twice; driving on highway, accelerating to pass another car, engine just shuts off (?idles in neutral)... once easing up on the pedal completely and shifting got back, second time had to come to complete stop, turn off engine, and then restart.

    Dealer thought we were crazy, took it for a couple of test drives and couldn't find anything wrong... Needless to say, we get a bit anxious whenever on the highway now days. Shouldn't be like that with your new car...
  • My problem was a failing fuel pump and the fuel filter. The fuel filter is in the tank, with the pump, it is not an in-line item. My filter was full of metal filings where the pump was self machining itself! I found both parts on-line at a really low price compared to the dealer.

    The fuel filter can be removed through the access cap located on the floor behind the drivers seat. You'll have to pull back the carpet to get to the panel. It comes out with a few screws. You may have to lower the front of the tank to get enough clearance to tap the locking ring loose (Use a piece of hardwood if you do not have a brass drift).

    I had a similar problem with a 1985 VW. The fuel pump replacement fixed it too.
    I am sure that your Kia dealer is aware of this failure mode - they just don't want to pay for the parts cost.
  • I bought my Kia Sedona new in 2004. I have loved it until now. For the second time it cut - stopped running completely. The radio, windows and middle console (AC, cigarette lighters, etc) don't work. It still turns over but nothing happens. Last time, I had it towed to a shop and they couldn't get to it until morning at which time it started right up! They kept for a couple days and plugged it into the computer and found nothing wrong. Well, it has happened again. My only other option is to have it towed to a dealer (2 hours away). But I worry it will start right up for them. At this point I am going to just wait until morning and try it but I think there is something seriously wrong and I wonder if anyone else has had the same problem.

    Thank you.
  • Was having problems with Sedona not starting and engine light came on. Code reader showed that crankshaft sensor needed replaced. Put new sensor on and disconnected batt. cable to reset computer. Sedona will start about 5 times and then stops like before. If you reset computer, it will start about 5 times. Engine light is not on and there is no code errors coming up. Please help!!! Any suggestions welcome.
  • Have you figured it out yet or had any luck....we have the same problem with a new van. Kia Sedona 2008...they say nothing is wrong either and we almost got in an accident today on the highway with our three kids. The trip was a 2 hour trip...somethings is seriously not safe in these vans and I fear for our safety. We do not have money to buy a new car, this is so unfair. It is going to take a death for them to wake up about this problem.

    We drive it stops accelerating, engine shuts down and we are trying to cruise to the side of the interstate yet we have no power to pass cars. We turn our hazards on and try to get over. The scary part is when we have to drift over passing an exit merging onto the highway as we are trying to get to the side with no power...I am going to the dealership tomorrow to tell them about it. I am going to bring in the blogs and prove I am not crazy. Did you know that there is an attorney named Howard Gutman in NJ that deals with Kia problems...this apparently is a huge problem. I am going to demand that Kia give me a letter in writing telling me it is safe to drive and they found nothing wrong with it. If they think we are all crazy then they should have NO problem writing letters. If they do not help me I am filing a complaint and filing one with the Better Business Burea and attorney general's office. We need to do something before someone is killed!
  • Look at my post #115. If you are not seeing any other lights - just power loss, sudden, and usually on the highway that are not easily reproduced, you have a failing fuel pump. I am sure that Kia is aware of the pump failures and they do not want to replace them. You can find the pump on line, or better yet go to you AutoZone and order one. That way if it's not correct they'll take it back. You only need someone with medium level mechanical skills to replace the pump. It's accessed by pulling up the carpeting behid the drivers seat and lowering the tank. If the tank is full - siphon it down before you lower it. There is a ring on the top of the tank. It has to be "tapped" with a screw driver and hammer to loosen it. The only other thing that causes your Kia Sedona to run crappy is a failed or failing Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) but they're to damn expensve so start with the fuel pump. It's usually the failure mode; it self machines itself. The "sock" filter on the end of the fuel pump will have little gray particles in it. Do not let any dirt fall into the tank. Good Luck. I hope you have a current warantee or a service contract.
  • We have been having problems with our 2008 Sedona LX since November 2008. Our issue has been with stalling. Van worked beautifully for over six months before problem surfaced. Has been in dealership for more than 7 weeks out of last 9 1/2 weeks. We have had to take it in on five different occasions during this period because after they "fix" it the problem recurs. They are on the third computer. It is all covered through warranty but this is of little comfort because we still don't have use of our vehicle which we are continuing to make payments on. We are in Canada so there are no "lemon" laws so we will have to deal with it through an independent arbitration process which will take some time.
  • This sounds similar to a problem we had with our 2006 Sedona after about 313 Miles on it. Traveling down the highway, lose accelerator power, engine light comes on, oil light comes on., etc. Turned the flashers on clear right and get on the shoulder of the road. We turned the van off, then after a few minutes restarted it w/o any problems and drove it 15 more cautious miles home. We took it to the dealership the first time and they thought it was an oil temperature sensor (I don't remember exactly). Drove it home the next day, and a few days later, the check engine light comes back on. I was NOT HAPPY. After paying >$24,000 for a new vehicle I expect it to run. I took it back and thank goodness we have a master mechanic at our Kia dealership. They "TESTED PIN CONNECTIONS FOR OIL TEMP SENDING UNIT; THEN SECURED ALL PIN CONNECTORS AT PCM AND RECHECKED TEST" -- all verbatim off the service receipt. I guess what happened was the van thought it was overheating, degrades to a "limp" mode--so you can get it off the road, then runs fine after it is reset (by restarting). Go figure. It's all computers these days. Have your mechanic check this out.

    I really love this van, though...

    Now on to my other problem... no starting.... think I have that one figured out...
  • jirkajirka Posts: 15
    Did you figure it out?

    I have a similar problem with my Kia Sedona 2007.
    - Suddenly the gas stops responding. The car slows down.
    - the Check Engine and ESC-OFF lights turns on.
    - I can continue to drive but only at about 8 mph. Depressing the gas does not make any difference - the RPMs of the engine do not change.
    - When I stop, put the gear shift into "D" while standing on the brake, the car starts to jump like an old tractor (when I move it to "P" it stops but the engine still isn't running as smoothly as normally).
    - Stopping and restarting (sometimes twice with a pause ) fixes the problems. The check engine light stays on for some time and then goes away.

    It happened three times so far. The dealer says he cannot do much unless the check-engine light stays on (I would think the computer logs the error codes ...)
  • I've resorted to trying to have a video camera on hand the next time it happens so I can try to film it while trying to keep from being killed when it stalls on the highway. There is clearly something wrong as we are all having this problem; don't know why we can't get Kia's attention. I guess they would rather hope we go away a risk one of us getting killed and the big lawsuit. You would think the potential bad press would be deterrent.

    No customer service these days, even before the economy tanked. People used to stand behind their products.
  • Hi mate . Don't suppose you could give me the name of the electrical shop so I can get part number. My Kia has told me part is a Bosch immobiliser and costs £500 excluding fitting.
    Many Thanks if you can
    John
  • jirkajirka Posts: 15
    Had it at the dealer today - they read the following error codes (the Check Engine light stayed on this time): P2106 p1295 P2135.

    They applied some stabilant 22 and cleaned the TPS sensor following KT2009012207 Technical article (if that's a date 2009-01-22, it is pretty recent). It worked for about 5 hours. Then it started to happen again. About every 5min.

    Based on the codes it seems similar this post (for Hyunday Veracruz) - in that case the ETC Actuator and Gasket was replaced.
  • mattonemattone Posts: 5
    I have 2 Kia 2008 Sedonas, I had this problem with one of the vehicles going into limp home mode a couple weeks ago and had error codes P2135 and P1295 the dealer seemed to fix it and since we were on our way to Disneyland, we ended up putting on a couple thousand more miles, with out problems. Today my other kia had the same problem with the accelerator basically not working and I had to turn it off and restart it to get it out of "limp home mode". I had to have my wife pick me up in her Sedona. And on the way home, unbelievably the same thing happened to hers. So now both of my vehicles have this same problem and I don't how I will get them both to the shop. But even worse, it doesn't seem like anyone can fix this problem, and I am surprised more people aren't having this problem (considering it happened to both of my Sedona's in a 2 hour period. Any advice?
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