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Kia Sedona Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems



  • jirkajirka Posts: 15
    1. Towing to the nearest shop is covered by the warranty. Just call the hotline.

    2. How did they fix it the first time? In my case they first cleaned the TPS (if I understand it right it is the thing that communicates the info from your accelerator to the engine) which helped for few hours :), they replaced it the next day and I haven't have problems since.
  • mattonemattone Posts: 5
    They ended up replacing the throttle body assembly, which they said included the TPS, so I was confident this would resolve the problem, it also looks like they replaced the ETC Actuator and the ETC Gasket. Unfortunately I didn't get 3 miles from the dealer and the same problem reoccurred with one of them (we are waiting for it to happen again to the other, its like walking on thin ice every time we drive it, but we need something to drive). Now its back in the shop and I feel like no one has any idea what is wrong with these 2 vans much less how to fix them. Can I really have such bad luck that I happen to have 2 vans with this exact same problem and no one else has seen this problem?
    the codes that came up again, were p2106, p2195 and p2135.
  • gatottengatotten Posts: 8
    Replacing all of that stuff is OK - if you are still under waranty; however, the problems you are describing sound like a fuel pump failure. It is a known flaw in the pump design. The pump grinds itself into very fine metal particles, you start the car and drive and it's OK for a short while or until you try to accelerate onto the highway, then the metal clogs the filter (which is better than allowing it into you injectors!) and the car stops running. You let it sit for a while, the metal particles fall off the screen filter and your car will appear to start and run normally but it will fail again. If you are close to the end of the waranty insist that your dealer pulls the fuel pump and checks the filter screen. A second possible cause, but not as likely, is the Mas Air Flow (MAF) sensor. If one of the wires shorts out the car's computer goes into "limp" mode. (Adding Viagra to the gas tank will not help!) ;^)
  • jirkajirka Posts: 15
    I do not know how long you have your car and what is the lemon law in your state. But: if I am not mistaken, in Ohio, if you have the vehicle for less than 12 mos (or the problem was first discovered in that period) and the problem is DANGEROUS they have only ONE chance to repair it (they have more chances in other cases). They tried yours 3times and it is still not OK. And it is dangerous - going into a limb mode without warning while in the left lane on a freeway is very dangerous. So if I were you I would check the lemon law in your state and then get your money back.... You can use it to buy a new Kia or Honda or whatever ...
  • mattonemattone Posts: 5
    Unfortunately they are used, and from what I have read regarding the lemon laws they only apply to new cars.I got my car back today after 5 days at the dealer, they replaced the ground bolts the tech said a couple of the grounds were rusted and that may have caused the problem. This was a recommendation from Kia and apparently they realized this problem was out there. The part number were GD8, G19, and G29. They also reflashed the ECM per Update. Frankly, I would be SHOCKED if this worked, but when the tech explained it to me it did make sense. And I was able to drive it home. If this doesn't work I will be asking about the fuel pump. But with under 20,000 miles on it I can't imagine how it can be the issue described above, involving the fuel pump
  • We had the same problem with our 2006 Kia Sedona at about 25,000 miles. The problem repeated about 5 times and got worse each time. It took a couple of trips to the dealership, but they finally figured out the problem. They replaced both the Accelerator Pedal assembly and the sensor on the engine that the accelerator pedal connects to. That was about 5,000 miles ago and we have not had the problem since.
  • Here is a more detailed description of what happend to us:
    We had a problem with our 2006 Kia Sedona at about 25,000 miles.
    - Suddenly the gas stops responding. The car slows down.
    - The Check Engine and ESC-OFF lights turns on.
    - The engine continues to run but nothing happens when you push the accelerator pedal.
    - Turning the engine of and the restarting fixed the problems temporarily.

    The problem repeated about 5 times and got worse each time. The first time we shut down and restarted it worked fine for about 50 miles. By the fifth time it happened it ran only about a mile before it happened again.

    It took a few trips to the dealership, but they finally figured out the problem. They replaced both the Accelerator Pedal assembly and the sensor on the engine that the accelerator pedal connects to. That was about 5,000 miles ago and we have not had the problem since.
  • mattonemattone Posts: 5
    It sounds like a number of us have a very similar issue, but it sounds like we are all given different solutions from our dealers. Your situation sounds identical to mine. Both of mine 08 Sedonas are running fine now, but as I said I have no faith that they have found the fix. So next time, I will suggest your service departments idea and hope that works. You would think Kia would be able keep all their mechanics informed. Thanks for the suggestion
  • bikash007bikash007 Posts: 10
    I am very close to buying a Kia Sedona. But reading the comments in this forum I am really scared. In the past I drove a Mercedes and a Toyota. They never gave me any weird problem. I put more than 200K on my Toyota without a single unusual problem. But reading the post, I think I am signing up for a death warrant. What would you guys advise me? I would rather spend another 10 grand and buy a safer vehicle for my family than buy a death machine that stalls on the highway.
  • gatottengatotten Posts: 8
    "....than buy a death machine that stalls on the highway". You already answered your own question. The Kia is HEAVY, gas mileage isn't great, electrical problems that appear to rival the legendary 1990 VW Corrado - why buy a Kia? Chrysler's new minivans are being sold at reduced the top of the line, leather seats, large v6 - more bang for the buck. My son kept his Kia because he was upside down on the loan so it was fix it or take a loss. WIth Kia's poor reputation the resale value has dropped. Even is you don't like the Chrysler minvan - at least drive one for comparison to the other models before you buy. (no, I don't work for a car mfg. or dealer)
  • I bought my first car in 1975 and have purchased over 20 vehicles since then, both new and used. While many of them have had the usual minor problems, none has ever had the number of serious safety problems that our 2006 Kia Sedona has experienced. From the headlights that both quit working without warning, to the total loss of power while driving on a busy interstate, this is not a vehicle that I would ever recommend a person to buy. In reading the forums I find that these problems are not unique to my particular van, but with Sedona's in general.

    Do yourself a big favor and pick another vehicle.
  • bikash007bikash007 Posts: 10
    Thanks a lot for helping me make the right decision. I am going to buy a Honda odyssey LX instead, which may cost me couple of grand more, but will ensure that my family is safe.
  • jimjimjjimjimj Posts: 5
    Actually, it'll probably cost you 6000-10000 more for a comparable vehicle, but I don't blame you and would do the same thing today if I could as it will have a much better resale value.

    I just wish/hope some one who gives a darn at Kia reads this and realizes they are shooting themselves in the foot by ignoring this issue and buyers like you will not buy a Kia and understandably pay a premium for for a Honda or Toyota.

    Pretty shortsighted of them; penny-wise, pound foolish for sure.
  • jirkajirka Posts: 15
    I am not sure. I wanted to buy Honda Odyssey, but ended buying Sedona, because it has better crash ratings. It was hard for me to ignore the fact that the difference in crash ratings is in the second row where my kids sit. The door on Odyssey just got out from the hinges in the tests.

    The problem is that Sedona is safer when the crash occurs, and Odyssey is more reliable, so it might be easier to avoid the crash (it is not very safe to switch into a limb mode while driving on the freeway). Hard to say.
  • stushstush Posts: 62
    You should go into the Honda Odyssey forum. Look at all of the complaints about the transmission failing. It seems Honda doesn't want to admit they have a problem, make your own decision.
  • rstoffmanrstoffman Posts: 1
    I turn the start key and all I hear is "click"! The starter does not respond at all.
    After repeated "turn start key" actions (might take 10 - 15 times), the starter eventually respond and the engine works properly. The phenomena happens all the time, the battery is in a very good condition. Can anybody advise here.
  • lavrishevolavrishevo Posts: 312
    The solenoid in the starter is going bad. This is the part that engages the starter. On some starters the solenoid is on the outside and can be replaced while keeping the starter but most are now built into the starter. So, soon you will have to buy a new starter or have yours rebuilt.
  • pl411pl411 Posts: 6
    My van runs OK but has a very loud vibration when idling while in gear. It's so loud that I often pop it into neutral when I stop at a red light. Also, it seems to be a bit harsh when accelerating, though that one might just be me being overly sensitive. I purchased my 2006 Sedona a few months ago with ~42k miles. It now has 46k miles. I do not recall it doing this at first, but it has been doing it for a few months now. Has anyone else experienced this problem? What was the fix?
  • likellehlikelleh Posts: 35
    Ok here is one for all of you. I have a 2006 Sedona EX that I love and basically have had minimal problems with. HOWEVER, In the past 4 months,when i have gone to put the key into the ignition, it won't go in! After playing with the steering wheel for sometimes up to 15 mins it eventually will go in. Intermitantly at first and now more consistant When it happened this past weekend i found that when it does happen I could still turn the steering wheel and that it wasn't in a locked position. In the past few days it has become worse and now I can't take the key out of the ignition in fear it won't go back in again. I have had it to my dealership twice before and because, " they can't duplicate the problem" have not been able to do anything. I called them again yesterday and now I will be dropping it off Wed night and they are going to see if they can figure it out now that we know the steering will not lock when it does it. Fortunately for me, I have an extra car I can use. Has anyone ever hear of anything like this? The dealer I go to is great, but they have never seen anything like this before?.
  • likellehlikelleh Posts: 35
    Update...Well took it to the dealer and for the 3rd time heard the proverbial "we can't seem to duplicate the problem.". Well those words aren't the ones i want to hear so I told the Service manager i was only 15 mins away and would be right over. When i got there I talked to him for a few minutes and he gave me the key and told me to see if i could duplicate the problem. The first few times i put the key in nice and smooth...took it out for a short drive and parked it. Key again went in smooth. Took it for a 10 minute drive, did a hard u-turn to get the steering wheel to completely turn, brought it back to the dealer, pulled a hard turn with the wheel till it could go no more and shut the car off. Guess what! Key wouldn't go in. I went in and got the service manager and he came out. His thought that the small hinged pin inside the ignition cyclinder is sticking and so he is ordering it and will have to take it back next week for replacement...I'll keep you posted.
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