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Kia Sedona Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems



  • New to the forum and thanks to all for the helpful info on here. Own a Sedona 2007 EX and it has about 16K miles. Very happy with a loaded vehicle that we obtained for a great price. Sunroof leaked on day 2 but more on that later. Recently it would not start and I kept jumping it. Tried all sorts of combinations as to turning power off to the doors and liftgate but if left for more then 18 hours it went dead. Went to Kia in Portsmouth, NH, where we purchased it. The service manager was very helpful. It appears that Kia does some, well, weird (read: not very smart) design things when it comes to power. When you first turn on the car the Instument Control Module ("ICM") is in charge of all the icons that display on the dashboard and for maintaining master control over the vehicle's power needs. In most cars, when you turn them off power is briefly retained so you can, say, close the windows (for just one example) for about 10-20 seconds. Kia, in it's wisdom, retains the power for much longer. Don't know for exactly how long, or WHY??, but it's for minutes not seconds. So, the ICM continues to draw power from the battery even after you've shut the vehicle down, locked it, and went into your house. In my case though the ICM isn't shutting off and it's draining the battery completely. The ICM is a rather expensive part to replace and the dealer has only had to do one before that malfunctioned as ours does. Thankfully, we are under warranty, he ordered the part (no dealer stocks it as it's too expensive), and they will replace it on Friday. Kudos to the service manager at Bourneval Kia for doing the right thing, even if it is under warranty, and not screwing us around by just giving us another battery and wishing us good luck. Will let you all know if it solves the problem.

    As to the sunroof, if you have one and it's from 2005 or later, read on. So, I'm sure all know that no sunroof is designed to be watertight or airtight. Rather, when water lands on the sunroof there are a series of channels that the water flows into and out of the car unseen. Not so for us and we watched the water leak onto the front seat belt on the passenger side. This was the clue as it was only on the passenger side and leaking exactly where the front side air bag is loaded and bolted next to the A-pillar, slightly above and to the rear of the front passenger. Kia's design here could be a lot better. What Kia does when they make a car with a sunroof is to first install the drainage tubes that handle any water flow on a rainy day. Btw, the design of the tubes is poor all by itself, but should still work. Then, after the tubes are installed along the roofline, they install the side airbag assembly and bolt it in several places to the same approximate location as the drainage tubes. Of necessity, they bolt it well and tighten it. As they tighten the air bag assembly it begins to constrict the drainage tubes and water cannot flow to the aft of the vehicle and then down and out. Rather, it goes to the path of least resistance and drops vertically down into the car about where the front passenger seat belt resides. So, not only will Kia being replacing my instrument control module on our Sedona but will have to take off the entire front side air assembly, repair/replace the drainage tubes, and rebolt the assembly .

    I posted this in the hope that it will help others who have similar problems. We bought our Kia because we felt it had great value for the money, looked good, and our only complaint (besides what's being fixed as noted above) is the crappy mileage. No way does it meet the 18-25 listed. That said, the warranty convinced us and now that warranty is paying off big time. Wish we didn't need it but we do and Kia (Bourneval) in Portsmouth, NH, is doing the right thing. We'll see how it goes and just hope this dealership stays alive; Kia dealers seem to be dropping like flies in this economy. Hope this is helpful. - CK
  • lavrishevolavrishevo Posts: 312
    Good post Clark. As far as the MPG goes you will see an improvement with additional mileage, but if I may offer some advice.

    First, tire pressure is always a little gain. I suggest right around 36 PSI. My tires have a max pressure of 44 but with just 3 - 5 extra PSI you will have less rolling resistance and hence better MPG and longer tire life.

    Second, is go with a K&N washable air filter and if your slightly brave remove the air-restricting filter right before the MAF sensor in the intake tube. Very easy to do, here is my instructions:

    Third, Go with a full synthetic oil like Mobile One or similar. Synthetic oil not only last longer but lubricates much better and has shown to improve gas mileage as well as improve power. Same can be said about the K&N.

    Fourth, and really this is the most important, is driving habits. The ONLY way your going to get 18/25 or better which, I achieve on my 2006, is by keep your foot off the gas pedal. Letting the engine shift right around 2000 RPM's and keeping the your speed limit at 65 MPH or under with not fast starts will give your great gains in MPG. Not easy to do with a powerful engine that is fun to use. Give this a try for a week and see your results. Remember though, it is all about nice and easy starts and stops in traffic and letting the engine shift at low RPM's. I have seen as high as 30 MPG in ideal conditions. Also, Edmund's highest mileage on the 2006 long-term test was 29 MPG @ 25,000 miles. Seems the 3.8's take a while to break in.
  • Similar to our 2007 Hyundai Entourage (same vehicle). Key goes IN but won't turn. Sometimes takes 30 minutes. Have tried putting the key in and out multiple times, turning the key over, using a different key, and remote starting it first - no difference. Took it twice and they said "no problem". On the 3rd visit I was finally able to show the Service Manager the issue and he was able to replicate it - but said there was nothing he could do. I finally went to the GM who contacted Director of Service who is contacting Hyundai Field Engineering Services about this. We cannot afford for my wife to get stuck someplace if I am travelling. The Dealer treied to tell me it wasn't covered by the warranty. They changed their mind. :-)
  • I have heard of the key problem not turning. It's actually a lock mechanism in the car and there is a little cover you can pop to the right of the shift to unlock the steering lock to get the key to turn. I just can't get the key in period. It's like the small lock bar in the cylinder get stuck. Still very frustrating on both issues when you can't start the car when you want to. My dealer is replacing the cylinder and has to co ordinate with a lock smith to replace. Right now they are trying to wait till I call them because they will be picking up the tab for telling me the first few times nothing was wrong. :(
  • cgdcgd Posts: 1
    Hi-we have had very similar problems with our 2006 Sedona. ESC-OFF light comes on and the accelerator does not function. Stopping and restarting the car seems to get things going. The codes that came up were P2106, P1295 and P2135. On 8/25 the dealership replaced the TPS and reprogrammed the ECM. Things were good until a few days ago, and then the same thing happened again (!).

    Did the grounding problem that you mentioned fix the problem? Have you had any more of these issues with your Sedonas since April?
  • When we had the problem, the dealership replaced both the TPS and the actual gas peddle assembly. Apparently the peddle assembly includes some electronic sending unit that connects by wire to the engine. That was over a year ago and the problem has not re-occurred.
  • Was recently driving on the highway (with my two infant children) when while going up a slight incline the van started to miss and hesitate. I pulled over-rev'd the engine hoping it would clear out any richness-this did not work. I shut the engine off - waited a few seconds and restarted-still the engine felt like it was missing. Finally after allowing the engine to sit (not running) for a minute, I restarted it and it ran fine. Drove it for approximately another 30 miles will no problem.. This has occurred twice with this vehicle. Has anyone had a similar problem??
  • I have a 2007 Kia Sedona that over the course of the past 2 months has had the check engine light go on and off and sometimes when the van is not fully warmed up will act as if it is miss firing. I took the van to a local mechanic and asked him to do a full tune up but he would not do a tune up instead he said he ran a diagnostic test and told me it was the throttle position sensor that needed replaced. I guess the mechanic took me on this because that did not fix the problem. I just had another scan test done today and it showed miss fires in cylinders 1, 2 and 3.
  • huerohuero Posts: 5
    Hey check engine light came on no signs of any problems took it to auto zone and they said code read throttle position sensor heres my problem car in texas with buddy and not sure if it will make it home approx. 750 miles nonstop hate to have somebody else work on car also does anybody know where it is located appreciate any help
  • I have a 2005 Kia Sedona and just had a misfire in cylinder 4. We moved the spark plug wires around and it was then a misfire in cylinder 6. The problem was the coil pack. We had that replaced by Kia and it fixed the problem. Unfortunately, there are 3 coil packs and each one costs over $100, without labor costs. So, it is only a matter of time before the other 2 go bad.
  • I have a 2003 Sedona I had to replace the motor in May and now I have had to replace, Cam shaft sensor, Crank shaft sensor, Ig failure sensor, and it still is acting up. Sometimes it will start and sometimes it will not. I can go out and it will start fine and go somewhere and be in the store for 5 min and come out and it will not start, I’ll wait a few min. or and hour then it will start. I can go out in the morning and it will not start then try it a few hrs later and it will start. NOW it will not start at all. It will turn over but not start. :mad
    I am soooo over this... Can anyone help :mad:
  • Sounds a lot like the fuel pump. They have a history of self destructing. The pressed metal fails and clogs the filter. The pump is in the tank. The early symptoms are - vehicle may start, run for a short time and stop or not start until sitting for a while. You may be able to drive at speeds less than 50 and nothing happens and then pull onto the interstate and it dies in a few miles. Let it sit and then it goes again and finally nothing - the pump is gone. These are the symptoms.

    You need to check for fuel delivery. You, or your mechanic should have changed the fuel pump when you changed the engine. If you didn't it would be my first suspect. You will need to check the fuses and then "listen" for the pump to run when you turn on the key (but don't engage the starter). You can disconnect the fuel line to see if you have pressure. Fuel pumps are typically good for about 60,000 miles but may last up to 120,000.
  • I agree it could be the fuel pump. The Sedona is known for it's fuel pump issues. I had the humming noise and the Kia fix did not take car of it under the recall so it was replaced under warranty.
  • jomad4jomad4 Posts: 1
    2005 KIA Sedona ignition switch will not turn. It is locked up. Can't turn the key.
  • We have had this issue with our 2007 Hyundai Entourage. Its been in the shop 3 times. I've been told to pull the key out and turn it upside down and put it back in and try. I was told to try the spare key. I was told to be SURE that when you pull into a spot that your tires are straight and the steering wheel is not all the way to one side or the other. It has been looked at by Field Engineering and they couldn't figure it out either. BUT .... they would not replace the ignition/ignition lock. Not even under warranty.
  • I have had the problem of NOT being able to put the key in the ingnition. The lock would engage and would not let me insert the key. I had it into the dealer and until I got it to do it he didn't believe me. He had heard of not being able to turn the key. That is why there is that little oval push out piece on the shift base that you pop out to disengage the locking mechanism. The dealer was going to replace the ingnition core under warranty. The biggest culprit causing these problems are heavy key chains. My daughter had given me a heavy gold key chain from Quebec. I took it off and I have had no problem with it sense. Just the downward weight of the key chain caused the little level inside the ingnition barrel to drop and not allow me to put in the key....Its been fine for months now.
  • judy56judy56 Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Kia Optima and have the same problem that the key switch is locked. I have had it towed in and of course it worked there. They say there is no problem. Have you found out the solution to the problem?
  • mattonemattone Posts: 5
    An update, it has been a year, and I have 45,000 miles on one of my Sedona's and 35,000 on the other and have not had any additional problems. knock on wood.
  • my situation is a little different than most. i've read many if not all on this forum relavent to the 2005 Kia Sedona stalling in traffic issue. some are stalling at high speed, some are stalling when slowing down, others are stalling and throwing a code. My problem started at approximately 100,000 miles.

    My 2005 Sedona LX (now, 109,000 miles) starts sputtering...ONLY... after it's warmed up, sitting in heavy traffic, and i'm accelerating from a stop or very slow speed. No Codes are thrown.

    I've gotten two suggestions on this (one part i had replaced we'll see). One suggestion from mechanic is that their call to California Kia (HQ?) gave them a suggestion from techs that a tech bulletin was issued on 'hot - stall,' and that the suggestion was the Throttle-body Position Sensor should be changed. Done. We'll see if it works.

    by thhe way, the second suggestion came from a UTI (Universal Technical Institute) Drivability Instructor who had previously worked at a Kia/Hundai dealer. He put a meter (flight data recorder..they sometimes call it), and found all the numbers very close to perfect, or at least in range....except...the long-term fuel trim, bank #2 was showing a very lean reading. He said that reading came from the O2 (oxygen) sensor. He looked at the O2 sensor for that bank and found it showing a lean reading as well. So, how to fix that??? He was going to look around a bit at some tech bulletins, etc. and get back with me. I'm not in contact with him, so haven't been able to follow up yet, but he didn't have a definite 'smoking gun' part that he suggested changing because of it. A lot of theories, nothing concrete.

    I chose to change the TPS and see what happens. If it works I'll post it here. If nothing, I'll only try a few other cheaper options until it gets bad enough to have 'had enough', then I'll get rid of it! We're a one-car family and can't have it down a lot because of this problem, but so far, it's been predictable. 1) hot weather, 2) traffic - hot engine 3) giving it fuel from low idle. I'll, actually, be looking to duplicate these three conditions before too long, when i get a free afternoon (in case i'm stuck on the side of the road for a couple of hours) to see if the TPS fixed it or if i get any of these symptoms again.

    We also had other major service done: timing belt (never changed yet), spark plugs (scheduled to change at 100,000), Injector flush. All totaled $1500.00 I invested it because, up until this sporadic problem that can only be duplicated in hot-heavy traffic, our Sedona has been near perfect! We have loved it...and would love to have this problem fixed. hope the TPS does it.

    Yes, i've read in the forum A LOT!!!!!....about rotors and brakes. I changed the pads and rotors on this thing 4 times in the first 80,000 miles. (this is the 'near' of the 'near perfect' rating that i mentioned before). However, no problems since then. why? because i replaced the rotors with slotted/drilled high performance rotors that i bought from a rotor company off of the internet and installed myself (it's easy) and the semi-metalic pads that were suggested by the rotor company. I stopped replacing with the thinner Kia rotor that has a tendency to warp when hot and stopped using the ceramic pads, which i notice Kia has stopped using as OE on their newer cars too (at least from what i was told by a parts person). The slotted rotors are a little more noisy, but they stay cooler and no more problems ! (in fairness to Kia, I also changed out both of the rear brake pistons ....forgot the name of the little thing.... because they were both showing slight leakage). This is wierd that they both went at the same time and i attribute it to the pressure having to be placed on the front bad brakes and rotors.

    All of that to say. The brakes are fine now, and the van has been a gem for us. We've owned bad cars and good cars. This has, for 100,000 miles been one of our better choices (price included).

    I'm not paid by kia, work for kia, and would prefer to buy a Honda van (or Toyota if they can get it together), but for the money, we haven't been disappointed with our Kia purchase. We feel we've gotten our money's worth out of it.

    By best suggestion is: give yourself plenty of margin in your schedule. It's a healtheir way to live anyway : )

    chat again later
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