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Buying a Used 3-Series

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  • pharm30pharm30 Posts: 36
    I am thinking about test driving a CPO 2007 335 coupe - 19K miles.
    auto, leather, premium, sport, paddle shifters, nav. $39,750.

    Not real familiar with BMW, coming from Infinitis, I thought I might try something new.
    Opinions on price? not sure if this one qualifies for low APR (I thought I saw some used BMW could get 0.9% ?)
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,460
    only MY 2006 CPO 3 series qualifies for .09 financing. The '07 should get you 3.9%.

    Do yourself a favor & drive the car with a 6 speed manual transmission. Make sure you HAGGLE a lot off the asking price. I'd say start by lopping $5500 off the asking price and see if they go for it.

    2001 Honda Prelude Type SH/ 2011 BMW 328xi / 2011 Honda Pilot EX-L w/ Navigation

  • zayirzayir Posts: 4
    Newbie here, starting to take a look at a pre-owned (or CPO) 3-series of model years 2006-2008. Budget is around 23K for the car, excluding taxes and others. Seeing a lot of 2006/330i CPO model in dealer lots that has around 40K miles. There is extended warranty of 60 yr/100K mile on these cars. Initial dealer quotes are around 27K (did not start to negotiate till now)

    Questions:- 1. What would be a fair price for a 2006/330 with 40K miles, in Bay Area ?.
    2. Any advice on whether or not to go for it ? (my other option is most likely a 2007- 328)
    3. There is a 2007 -328 ex-loaner car for about 25K. Need inputs on if its okay to buy an ex-loaner.

    Thnx
  • carnaughtcarnaught Posts: 1,580
    In considering a used BMW, you should: 1) see the service record and 2) buy an extended warranty. As has been pointed out repeatedly, German cars are very expensive to fix and maintain.
  • zayirzayir Posts: 4
    Thanks carnaught !

    I am looking only at CPOs; so, extended warranty should come standard (6yr/100K miles)

    Is there anything specific to be looked upon in the service history ?

    Thanks
  • crortega9crortega9 Posts: 1
    Hi, I have the chance to purchase a fully loaded 2008 335xi coupe with about 20,000 miles for $36,000. Is this a good price? The car is in immaculate condition. Thanks!
  • zayirzayir Posts: 4
    Looking at 2006 330i with 32K miles on it. The car has extended warranty + maintenance till 6 yr/100K. What is a good price for this car in Northern CA ?. :confuse:
  • vlmvlm Posts: 5
    I'm looking at a 2001 325i wagon with 147,000 miles on it.

    I will drive it as my principal car for the next 18 months at which point my insurance will revert to normal.

    I would want to keep it on after that as a utility, haul bike, around town, farmers mkt type of car.

    Do 3-series make it this long?

    It is being offered for $7600.

    Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,539
    Yeah, sure, a well cared for BMW can do that distance and more---but I wouldn't pay $7600 for a miled-up car. More like $6000 should be plenty.

    You can figure, statistically, that a modern car can do 175K-225K before major catastophe sets in---but a car like the one you're thinking of buying has to have had good care.

    It makes no sense to buy a miled-up car that hasn't had much maintenance, with everything deferred for YOU to take care of. If it hasn't had suspension work, or cooling system work, you're going to be paying for that soon enough I think.

    Get it checked out thoroughly at an indy shop and then use the report to negotiate a better price.

    MODERATOR

  • vlmvlm Posts: 5
    Mr. Shiftright-

    Thanks for the response. According to Kelly Blue book, the retail is $9110 and the private-party is $7110. It has sport and premium, multi-cd, roof rack, and leather.

    Thanks for the tip on suspension, etc.

    I will take it to a mechanic for pre-purchase for sure.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,539
    Kelley is based on asking prices for the most part. You'll find KBB very optimistic, especially in this market, which is buyer friendly, not seller friendly. I myself would chop 10-15% off any KBB pricing.

    Try Edmunds TRUE MARKET VALUE PRICING

    it's better I think!

    (he would say that, wouldn't he?) :P

    MODERATOR

  • vlmvlm Posts: 5
    The TMV seems to be a little out of commission right now. Where one would normally enter condition seems to be messed up.

    The values it gives straight up are:
    trade:$6,299
    private party: $7,595
    retail: $8,944

    They are asking $7950, I was going to offer $7200 or so.

    Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,539
    Okay I just did it for you---with the mileage deduct, TMV comes out to $6100 private party, $7460 dealer retail.

    MODERATOR

  • vlmvlm Posts: 5
    Thanks again. Nerve-racking buying a high mileage car.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,539
    Yes but every used car has to speak for itself. A high mileage car with exquisite care is probably a lot better than a totally neglected one with low miles that gets a great detail job just before sale.

    MODERATOR

  • I have a 2007 Honda accord V6-EX with Navigation that I am leasing and have 1 of 3 years remaining (15K a year at 383 a month). I was interested in a used 2007 BMW 335i fully loaded with navigation. Here is a breakdown of the deal:

    5500 down payment, I lose 4000 dollars on the lease (I owe 20000 and they are going to give me 16000), the BMW is priced at 32,700 with 27K miles. At 6.25% APR I will be paying 630 a month for 63 months.

    Is this a good or a bad deal?? I am leaning towards no deal but would love to hear some opinions on this. Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,539
    No deal man IMO. You'd end up paying $40,000 for a car that's worth about $32,000 and will be out of warranty while you're still repairing it. You should pay off your lease and then go car shopping.

    MODERATOR

  • hi folks, looking to buy either used 335i with sports package (bc that's usually how they come), or spend about equal money and buy a new non sports package (no idrive etc).

    just drove an 08 with low miles, sport pkge and the works. love the ride. wondering if the summer tires will be undriveable in the NE winter. will I need to take my wife's truck everytime it snows?

    on the ohter hand, I could just order a brand new 335 coupe with just an auto tranny (that's all I'd really need, no this and that) for about 43k msrp., or just 3k more than that used one mentioned above.

    if I bought the used one, could I just change to regular all seasons tires? do they make them for this specific model and wheel package?

    thanks.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    If you leave summer tires on a 335i, then yes, the car will be all but undrivable in any kind of wintery weather. The thing is, summer tires simply have very poor grip when the weather gets cold, rainy, icy or snowy.
  • thanks shipo. I guess it's might be worth it to simply order a new 335 without the sports pkge, stay with all seasons and just drive a little slower in the winter. I'm usually very cautious anyway, haven't had an unintented spin out in the winter since that one time back in college (winter of 95? 2 feet of snow while driving dad's sable wagon to school).
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    My 530i SP with the summer tires installed was barely able to make it up my driveway with only an eighth of an inch of snow on it. That said, when I bought a set of winter wheels and tires, that car was a beast in snow that came up well above the lower end if the front air dam.

    Were I in your shoes, I'd buy the 335i SP and then buy a set of winter wheels and tires for it.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • yeah, I know. the SP is nice, and you get the paddle shifters for $100. but, I'm just lazy/short of room in the garage/don't want to store a set of winters.

    you think I could order SP and tell them to have all seasons on them? I mean, I'm never going to explore the outer reaches of its adhesion (intentionally, anyway). besides, skid pad #s of .85 for all seasons vs. .90 or something for summers isn't that much difference. I just wanted the car for the engine. :)
  • I'm actively looking at new and used 335 coupes. a friend of mine mentioned that replacing the turbos on the used ones might be expensive. anyone know what range we're talking about? 2k? 5k? need to pull the engine?

    and, at approx what miles would you need to do such work?

    thanks.
  • nepropneprop Posts: 41
    Hi. Thinking about a 3 series convertible, but I live in New England so all year drivability is paramount. Will real snow tires, not all seasons, but true snow tires allow me to drive in the winter snow / slop / ice that New England enjoys? Alternative is to buy an Audi A4 Quattro Cabriolet, but I like the 3 series convertible's lines. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,539
    Snow tires on all four wheels would be a good idea for NE winters, which can be pretty challenging.

    MODERATOR

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    My 530i with four winter tires mounted was an absolute dream to drive during our New Hampshire winters, unless you have some serious grades to climb (like 12% or steeper), you'll be good to go.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 27,921
    The 3-series convertible is no different than any other 3-series (other than more weight). It will be a champ with winter tires..

    If my wife can do it for three years, anyone can... :)

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • dash5dash5 Posts: 417
    Sorry if this is an obvious question but... do you keep the snow tires on year round or just in winter months? Do they help in rain as well? I'm considering geting the 328xi or 335xi (used) simply because I want the car to handle well in all weather conditions.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Winter tires should only be kept on during the winter as they are not built to deal with the heat of summer roads. For wet wummer roads, all-season or summer tires will perform much better.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    Shhh, be vewy, vewy qwiet, I'm hunting Wabbits on wet wummer woads... :blush:
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