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Chevrolet Tahoe Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • ut_texanut_texan Posts: 6
    Let me first say I love my Chevy's. I have had 3 and never a major problem. A 97 Silverado with 150K miles that I traded in for a 2003 model that I still have after 9 years with only 62K miles.

    I also have a 2007 Tahoe, bought it new and only have about 32K miles on it. About 6-10 months after having we did seem to be coming to a dead battery a few times. We thought maybe the son was leaving the interior light on or leaving his DS plugged in or something like that. After a few times of this happening we finally took it to the dealer. They looked at and didn't find anything wrong with it. Perhapas they updated some of the software at that time because we never had the problem again.
    It was a typical Sat. morning today. Went to get my haircut and while in the barber chair my wife came in to tell me the battery was dead. I sadi sure it is. Low and behold when I went out there it was as dead as a doornail. Not thinking about the battery, I left the key on for the wife so she could listen to the cd. I even think the ac was on low speed. The doorlocks on the fob and interior locks wouldn't work. Rear door won't unlock either. We had someone try to give us a jump but it did nothing. It didn't even put a drain on the other car. I figured it was the battery and it had finally died since during the winter it was a little sluggish/slow when cranking up the tahoe. We pulled the battery and went to Autozone, got the battery and installed it. Now everything was working from what I could tell except the door locks and it wouldn't crank or even turn over. I did notice that when we would open a door or tried the fob sometimes we would hear a click sound somewhere near the engine. We had it towed to the local dealer since their service dept was still open. The service guy did hook up his little scanner somewhere under the steering wheel and told us there were no codes. They said they would look at it Monday morning.

    So hear starts our story. I will definitely wait to see what the dealership says first but I will definitely tell them to make sure the software is up-to-date, inspect the wiring harness, look closely into the GMLAN wiring system. I have also read that it could be the starter relay or the GM High Speed LAN Resistor. I hope I don't get stuck with some large bill that doesn't even fix the problem permenantly.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    ut_texan,
    I hope that everything goes well with your dealership! Please post an update on the progress there with your Tahoe, and if we can be of any assistance we can be contacted at socialmedia@gm.com
    Best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • ut_texanut_texan Posts: 6
    They say it is the BCM and want to charge me $545 for it. they said everything else tested fine. they have been looking at it for 2 days. Headed there now to review the diagnostics and check to see if they updated the sw for the tahoe and perhaps try to get them to replace the resistor.
  • ut_texanut_texan Posts: 6
    Service foreman said this was the next logical step. the BCM wasn't communicating so it is at least fried. I still feel like they are grasping at straws at this point and hoping this fixes the problem but they won't know until they replace it. So far the toal bill will be $545 plus tax.
    He told me the BCM was solid state and nothing could be replaced in it when I mentioned the terminating resistor for the GM Hispeed LAN. He also said there were like 4 resistor modules. I didn't really follow what he was saying or necessarily trusted it.
    My biggest fear is that this isn't the real problem and that I don't wany my family to be in danger because the vehicle might fail again but this time fail while it is in operation.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    ut_texan,

    I understand why you're apprehensive; have you decided to have the BCM done? Please keep in touch with us in regards to how your vehicle operates after the replacement. If this doesn't turn out to be the root of the matter, we'd be happy to look into this further.

    Best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • t_text_tex Posts: 25
    edited May 2012
    ut texan - The service foreman telling you that replacing the BCM was "the next logical step", is a good illustration of how poorly GM techs are trained and equipped to diagnose and electrical problems in their line of cars and trucks. That was the first thing replaced in my Tahoe and it wasn't the problem. In fact as I later found out the BCM is rarely the problem - it is the "gateway" to the gmlan system and handles most of the low speed lan functions although there is a high speed lan port that interacts with this module. You could get lucky and this could be the problem. However, this is the problem that is so frustrating with GM - there is no quick and definitive way to diagnose what the real problem is, if there is an electrical problem that is affecting mechanisms and processes that are linked to the gmlan system. It takes an immense amount of diagnostic work to peel the onion back to find the root problems of electrical malfunctions in vehicles equipped with gmlan. And I also have another Tahoe (07) besides my 09 and it doesn't have and never has had an electrical problem, so I assume that the majority of gm vehicles don't have gmlan problems but the ones that do have a problem seem to be almost "unfixable". Or at the very least, it takes an immense amount of time and money before the dealer tech gets lucky and stumbles on to the solution to the problem.
  • ut_texanut_texan Posts: 6
    thanks, that is my main concern. He tried to talk around me in circles and tried to make me feel like I had no clue as to what I was talking about. I know my way around a vehicle pretty well. I have replaced intake manifold, carb, head, pulled an engine, put one in, replaced axles, rear gear, drive shafts, starters, etc and I know when it comes to a problem in the eletrical system it could be almost anything like a bad ground, bad solder, pinch in a wire, short, and so on.
    To me this is like having a problem on your computer and the technician tells you to re-install the operating system. It is a hail mary pass that is a huge cost when other components are much cheaper and could be the problem.
    This is my family vehicle and luckily this happened when it was parked and I was with them. My wife will freak and be very upset if this happens with her and our son.
  • ut_texanut_texan Posts: 6
    Yes, they are replacing the BCM and said my Tahoe would be ready this afternoon IF they don't find other issues. I was very concerned when he told me he has seen issues where a battery drain or dead battery could damage the BCM. I don't have a deep wallet to have a $545 service done everytime this happens if it continues to happen. Like all the other posters I don't believe this is an isolated issue and believe GM should be covering my repairs under warranty. We had this battery drain issue after we got the Tahoe (within 10 months) and took it in to be checked.
  • ut_texanut_texan Posts: 6
    They replaced the BCM in the tahoe for a total of $569. So far so good. I am a little considered about my battery gauge because it has bounced around from about 12 to 14 during identical situations and things running or not running. I will continue to monitor things over the next few weeks.
  • fixmycar13fixmycar13 Posts: 4
    Just spent 3200 bucks to fix suburban. The instrument panel went out. Brakes, steering, water pump. Seems like a lot of dough.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,956
    edited May 2012
    It is a lot of money.

    Then again, that's "only" 6 or 8 car payments, especially for an expensive new SUV.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • nancy2009nancy2009 Posts: 5
    I purchased a used Chevrolet Tahoe in July 2011 that had 35000 miles on it. About 3-4 months ago the vehicle would not start several times. I took the vehicle to the dealership where it was purchased, and I was told that the battery was bad although I had taken to Autozone where they assured me that the battery reading was fine. The battery was replaced at my cost as I was told that this was not part of the extended warranty I had purchased. Approximately a month ago the message "Stabilitrak off" began flashing periodically A few days after this began, I picked up my 5 year old daughter from daycare and as we proceeded to drive home, the locks began locking/unlocking repetitively, chiming, multiple warning lights, and the vehicle seemed unresponsive to the gas pedal so slowed at an alarming speed. I pulled over and turned the car off and was able to drive home. This happened again approximately 2-3 days later while accelerating at an intersection and again when I was leaving work. I contacted the dealership and took the vehicle in. After the technician drove the car over 40 miles (at my expense of gas), I was told that they could not locate the problem but to contact him if it happened again. Unfortunately for the consumers with this faulty system, they are only able to "diagnose" the problem if it happens in their care and because there is no warning for when this could take place, this is virtually impossible! The car did not have this issue again until yesterday when my mother was in the car and we were traveling back from my prenatal appointment in Houston, Texas on the freeway when this happened again while traveling approximately 65 mph. We were fortunate enough that there was not a car behind us when the car unexpectedly felt as though it went into neutral and began all of the above mentioned chaos again. This was incredibly scary at such high speeds for myself and my mother. I am currently 6 months pregnant and again as I mentioned have a 5 year old daughter. I feel as though we could pull into any intersection or on any freeway and could have this malfunction. I have purchased a lethal weapon on 4 wheels to put my family and myself in daily. I took the car back to the dealership this morning and expressed my grave concern as well as contacting safecar.gov and GM. I feel as though GM is disregarding the seriousness of this matter and wants to wait until my family or someone else's family is killed to react. The manufacturer is responsible for the proper and safe production of their products, are they not? McDonalds can be sued for serving coffee that was too hot but GM can allow their consumers to play Russian roulette with vehicles?
  • t_text_tex Posts: 25
    Nancy 2009 -It sounds like you have read a number of posts before yours and yes, it is scary when your vehicle goes into "limp mode" and you're in cross traffic or any traffic for that matter. If you're in the Houston area I can tell you that there are no dealers that "specialize" in electrical problems with gm vehicles. I finally took my 09 Tahoe to Lonestar Auto Electric on the southwest side of town after getting nowhere with the chevy dealer up in Humble. Lonestar did find multiple problems and did fix the car and I drove it for around 6,000 miles to Florida and Maryland with no problems but it did have an episode of door lock cycling a few weeks back but that may have been related to the negative battery post coming loose. We tightened it and no problems since. The only other place you could try is a Christian Brothers shop on the west side off of hwy 6 near Bissonett, I think. However, if you take it to any shop other than a dealer they must have a Tech II scanner with up to date software in order to diagnose GMLAN issues. Good luck.
  • nancy2009nancy2009 Posts: 5
    Thanks so much for your reply and advice. My car is still at the dealership right now; I do not live in Houston but I do go there to see my doctor. I am going to make technician aware of this. I spoke to the GM at the dealership as it is also the dealership that I purchased the car at. I am still uncertain as to how GM can continue to ignore these expensive vehicles with such safety concerns; what angers me the most is the attitude regarding these issues as if it is no concern to them. I plan to continue on this pursuit for some sort of rectification of the problem. I do not think that GM or the dealership that I purchased the car at should be comfortable with me driving off with the vehicle that could malfunction at any given moment with no warning. It seems as though these automotive companies do not have to react until someone is killed and they are publicly scrutinized. I do, as I said though, intend to not let this issue go until I can be assured that I am in a vehicle that is safe for myself and my family. I do not believe that we should have to make the news for GM to think that this is an important issue.
  • bran164bran164 Posts: 13
    Ok so my truck started acting up again by doing the chiming, door locks up and down, radio cutting on and off etc. I took it the mechanic and when I cut the truck off it wouldn't restart. No power, no clicking, nothing. Anyway, my mechanic (been going to him for years) ran a battery of test on the truck and found that the 175amp fuse on the firewall was shot and was barely connecting, which made the truck cut in and out. Fuse replaced and truck has been running great. Truthfully, I'm still pretty hesitant to say that it's fixed, after reading some of the other posts on here about multiple trips to the mechanic. Fingers crossed.
  • t_text_tex Posts: 25
    bran164 - Can you be more specific on what fuse it was an where it is located? My 09 Tahoe has a fuse box in the engine compartment and another fuse panel inside the vehicle on the side of the dashboard just across from the driver's door but I can't find a fuse panel on the firewall. Thanks
  • bran164bran164 Posts: 13
    T tex,

    The 175 amp fuse I am referring to is located against the firewall on the passenger side under the hood. If you're looking at the battery (on the left) from the front of the truck it should be located above and slightly to the right on the firewall. It's not inside of a fuse box or anything like that, it's a stand alone fuse.
  • 12knowcars12knowcars Posts: 1
    My wife and I have a 2005 Tahoe Z71 2WD that was purchased in 2010 with 80K miles. The vehicle has numeous upgrades. After driving the vehicle for a few months the following problems occured: 1) The dual heated seats started working intermittently. Over time only one could be turned on at a time but it would not stay on. 2) The ABS warning light began flashing with the warning alert dinging 33 times each time it activated. This began happening every time we drove the vehicle. A diagnostic test showed it to be the ABS module which is mounted on the drivers side frame (Dealer part priced at $1030.00. I found a used one at LKQ for $375.00. Only the top portion needed replacement. 3) The transmission went out without warning at a little over 100K miles (We were 150 miles away from home for the weekend when it happened and had to rent a car and be towed back home. A short inexpensive getaway ended up costing a fortune.) I replaced the transmission with a used one that had 69K miles, Hope it lasts. 4) the illuminated buttons on the steering wheel do no illuminate. I have asked mechanics about it but they are leary to mess with it due to the airbag. 5) some speedometer cluster lights are out. 6) One side of the A/C temperature selector does not illuminate 7) The fuel gauge will go from displaying nearly empty to all the way full without adding fuel. This also affects the Miles To Empty feature as if the tank was just filled up so if we didn't track our mileage we would think the tank was full and run out. 8) The passengers side mirror turns down intermittently as if it were in curb view and the mirror has to be re-adjusted. 9) The Driver 1 and Driver 2 seat settings do not stay programmed. 9) Occasionally the A/C blows hot air on the drivers side but stays cold on the passengers side. 10) The vehicle gets HORRIBLE gas mileage no matter how slow we drive or what octane fuel is used.

    I know the post is long but any suggestions for any of the above problems would be greatly appreciated. We still owe too much money on the vehicle to get out of it so I would like it to work in a manner that all of the ammenities we paid for can be enjoyed.
  • ncukfanncukfan Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 tahoe that I bought with 15k miles on it. I bought the extended warranty through 88k and glad I did. I have had 3 transmissions, 2 4wd sensors, rear AC actuator, and something in the steering column under the warranty AT $100 a piece for deductible. I have 105k on it now and I am still having tons of issues. Rear AC went out almost 12 months to the day it did before and the dealership stated that it wasn't the actuator part that would be under warranty it was the housing around it (quoted at $400). I am having all the same issues with the reduced power message when i try and downshift to accelerate. I replaced the wiring and plug for the throttle and it didn't work. The dealership told me that the butt splices that come with the ACDelco part that i put in would not work and that I should solder them so I now have to try that. They recommended that if that didn't work i should replace the throttle body. We shall see. Not a year ago i was getting the Service 4WD light and i called the dealership to see what it could be. The advisor recommended that i put it in 4WD once a month in and around the yard and it should fix it and IT DID! Until today when i did it my normal route around the yard and got the Service 4WD light again after. I turned the truck off and back on and now the entire dash switch is out and i can't even put it in 4WD. I am sure they will want $500-$1000 for that one too. I would trade it in if i could do a new payment now but can't. Guess i will have to keep trying to fix myself! Never buying a Chevy again unless it is pre-80's with NO electrical anything!! :mad: :mad: :mad:

    Seems that everyone is have one or more of the same issues!
  • I have been having the following problems with 07 Tahoe - 1) the rear wiper doesn't work; 2) the window on the rear lift gate won't open; 3) the driver's door lock will not work with the FOB or the panel button; 4) the driver information center (odometer, gas mileage, air pressure readings, etc.) is dead.
    My dealer just diagnosed the vehicle with a short in the rear lift gate, a broken actuator in the door, and the need to replace the instrument panel cluster. Total cost is $1300. Based on my research, these all seem to be common problems with Tahoes of this era, but GM has not issued any recalls. Has anyone gotten anywhere by appealing directly to GM to cover some of the costs of these repairs. It seems like things like this would make their consumer satifaction ratings take a plunge. I'm not sure if I will stick with GM next time around.
  • src13src13 Posts: 2
    The last few months my 2009 Tahoe has been what I called possessed. The dash dings and blinks most of the time, the "stabilitrak" light flashed off, door knobs go up and down without warning, car alarm goes off for no reason, hestitates when accelerating at times which is very dangerous, a/c panel will go from 60 degrees to 74 and every light on the panel lights up so I have to set it back to where it was before the dash went bananas and not on 3 occasions, I will get in to go and nothing! Its like the battery is dead but I hear clicking on both driver and passenger side door where all the window and lock buttons are, my gauge needles are moving up and down slightly while making a buzzing noise. All of the noises sound like and electrical wire is barely connected but when we took it to the dealership for the day, they say they can find anything wrong. Said the even called GM to ask questions and got no where. Like others, I love my Tahoe....when it is doing what it is suppose to do. It only has 59k miles on it. Sometimes I think I will walk outside and its on fire or something or worse I can be driving thru a busy intersection and it stalls out. Nancy2009 and I have the same problem but no results. On friend told me the thought it was the body control module and would be expensive to replace as they have to reprogram everything which sounds wrong all the wa around. If it is something to this magnitude, then I feel GM should fix it as it is not like an alternators, battery or something that is normal when it goes out although nothing should be going out on a 4 yr old vehicle...
  • bran164bran164 Posts: 13
    Nancy 2009,

    I had the exact same problem. My local mechanic here replaced what he called a 'mega fuse'. It's located on the firewall under the hood next to the battery. It cost me $107 out the door for diagnositcs and repair. Mechanic said the connectors were barely making a connection. My truck has been running fine for approximately a month and a half (fingers crossed). You might want to give that a try...
  • nancy2009nancy2009 Posts: 5
    I feel your pain! I have spent a lot of time in contact with GM as well as the dealership that I bought mine at. They did replace the wiring to the battery and my car has not had all of those issues since. Until last week when I set the keys on my seat and the car began locking itself and locked my keys in the car (which I do all of the time because my parents live in the middle of nowhere.) So tomorrow they are coming to get my car to replace the body control module. I loved my car until now.....now I feel as though I have no clue what it may do. GM and the dealership have basically said its my problem. GM offered me a "customer loyalty package" so that I could get rid of it (probably for them to sell to another unsuspecting victim.) They offered me 2000 dollars to use on another car....and said they could do nothing about the loss I would take on the vehicle which is definitely more than 2000. Its amazing that taxpayers bailed them out a few years ago! I would suggest having them look closely into the battery wiring/fuse...I am considering seeing a lawyer as I am 7 months pregnant and have a 5 year old daughter, and I am fearful this car could kill us! GM and the dealer won't really care until it happens.....so sad
  • nancy2009nancy2009 Posts: 5
    I think this is what they did at dealership....mine has been ok until the locks began acting up again! Did you have your batter changed previously? And how many miles do you have on it? I am just trying to see the amazing "coincidences"!
  • nealphxnealphx Posts: 6
    My Tahoe had the exact same problems and after taking it in 7 times to the same dealer, I took it to a different Chev dealer and they immediately found that the negative battery cable was bad. They changed the cable and I never had the problem again....The first dealer I took it to claimed they checked the battery cable and there wasn't anything wrong with it.
  • laytonicolaytonico Posts: 4
    I had the exact same symptoms with my Tahoe. After a few days of checking everything they replaced the negative battery cable/terminal AND reset the computer to clear all the old errors it was throwing. initially my dealership hadnt cleared the errors and reset the comp so the problems started happening again. Once they did both of these two things the vehicle operated normally. havent had any of these issues since then.
  • I had the same problem with negative battery cable. The area where the factory crimps (pressed) the cable to the battery connectors gets loose with rust. Instead of paying $85.00 for a new cable, I had my mechanic hammer (collapse) the connected area so that the cable had no room to move. Plus, I found out that my new battery connector rods were skinnier than my factory battery. We too battery connector apart and did some grinding of the ends do that we had a better grip on the battery poles. Problem resolved!
  • We took our 2009 Tahoe in today for door locks up and down, guages going haywire, not starting after it was shut off. Dealership cannot find any errors or codes, nor can they replicate the issue. They also stated GM has not issued any notices. Those of you that had the "mega fuse" replaced, did you have any other issues arise?
  • earwitchearwitch Posts: 1
    Let me start with I love my 2005 Tahoe 4X4 but..... My truck has 117,000 miles and I am starting to think it is possessed. So far this year I have had the car at the dealer for a total of 3 weeks for assorted issues including the shorts in the wiring to the rear wiper, knock sensors and other assorted emissions systems sensors, tire pressure sensors, gas cap issues, rear a/c issues, intake manifold gasket replacement, altenator, the radio issues(it stops and starts whenever it feels like it) are yet to be resolved and there is the sporadic gremlin that takes all the dash board lights out or sometimes causes the window and door lock switches to stop working. I am starting to think the car has a demon possessing it. I am seeing here that electrical problems are quite common in the Tahoe, but I am curious if anyone else is having issues with the emissions system sensors. I look forward to your responses.
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