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Chevrolet Tahoe Electrical Problems

1911131415

Comments

  • bran164bran164 Posts: 13
    Hi I was on here previously about my 2008 Silverado having electrical issues with the gauges fluctuating, door locks going up and down, radio cutting on and off etc. My mechanic (private dealer) changed the 175 amp fuse and it seemed to correct the problem. It's been approximately 2 months and my truck has started having the same exact problems. It's sitting at the mechanic right now and he's trying to figure out what may be wrong with it. He is suggesting everything from an alternator to a BCM. The negative battery cable has previously been changed. Not sure what to do at this point...any suggestions or success stories?
  • bran164bran164 Posts: 13
    Hi I was on here previously about my 2008 Silverado having electrical issues with the gauges fluctuating, door locks going up and down, radio cutting on and off etc. My mechanic (private dealer) changed the 175 amp fuse and it seemed to correct the problem. It's been approximately 2 months and my truck has started having the same exact problems. It's sitting at the mechanic right now and he's trying to figure out what may be wrong with it. He is suggesting everything from an alternator to a BCM. The negative battery cable has previously been changed. Not sure what to do at this point...any suggestions or success stories?
  • nancy2009nancy2009 Posts: 5
    I have continued to experience issues with my Tahoe even after all of the the time in the shop while I continue to make payments. Has anyone tried any legal pursuit of these issues? I feel like consumers must have some rights against these massive car companies. I am prepared to try another venue as I still owe quite a bit of money on this vehicle and need some resolution. My a/c is having issues too (my car has 65000 miles now) and there is a heat index of 110 most days here in Texas! I feel completely taken advantage of by Partners (the dealership) and GM.
  • bldrtahoebldrtahoe Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Tahoe LTZ. Over the last 6 months I have had multiple experiences with my tahoe not starting. It has full power to dash, lights, radio, windows, displays, but when I turn the key nothing happens. I had the battery checked twice and it was OK. Replaced the battery anyway and still have the problem. I noticed that when it won't start there is also no light under the gear selector display to show if the vehicle is in park. The check engine light comes on and it rolls thru all the warning codes in the display continuously. When I move the gear selector, still no indicator light. After I am finally able to get the Tahoe started the check engine light will stay on for a while (mabye 20 minutes) and the goes away. The light under the gear indicator will be working again after the vehicle starts. Here is what has happened so far:

    1) When the tahoe wouldn't start the first time, I left it at home for the day and when I came home I was able to jump start it. Took the tahoe to Autozone and they tested the battery and said it was fine. We left it alone and it started up just fine no problems for a couple of weeks.
    2) Drove out of town on a five hour trip. Parked the vehicle for 2-3 hours in the parking lot. Got in and it wouldn't start. Called roadside service and they tried to jump it off a jump box and off another battery and couldn't get it to start. Starter doesn't engage. He told me I needed a new starter. I waited another 30 minutes (after paying the roadside service $100). I asked another person in the parking lot for a jump and the tahoe started right up. Went to Autozone and they tested the battery - it was OK. I bought a new battery anyway for safe measure since I was out of town. No more problems for a couple of weeks.
    3)Went to the store and parked for about 2 hours. Came back and it wouldn't start. Tried to jump start and wouldn't do anything. Grounded out the starter - starter working just fine, but engine wouldn't fire. Spent an hour or so wiggling wires, tightened the battery cables, checked fuses, moved the shift lever up and down, still wouldn't start. We saw a posting on another forum to move the electeic pedals back and forth and it worked. Vehicle started.

    I often experience other problems
    - The CD Player motor runs constantly without a CD even when they key is off.
    -Sometimes the display of the stereo/nav will go blank and then after a few minutes come back
    -Check engine light will come on sometimes when I hit a bump and display will roll thru several warning codes, but goes away after a few minutes.
    -Random service codes will flash and then go away without me getting them serviced.

    I took the Tahoe to the dealer and they are suggesting I replace the Negative Battery Cable as a start and then go from there. My Tahoe has 100,000 miles. I am expecting to start having problems, but I don't want to pay the dealer to experiment with solutions.

    Any suggestions??? :confuse:
  • enrique7enrique7 Posts: 1
    hi i have a Tahoe 2008 LTZ 110,000 miles , and i had the same exact problems , the after checking all , i found not conductivity from the negative pole of the battery to the the other side (motor , chasis , etc) and we you move up and down the negative cable it connected some way and the conductivity back and all the systems turn on...i hope re please the negative cable works , please let me know if works i am replaced the negative cable today.
  • soleranosolerano Posts: 2
    Were you able to fix this problem??

    Yesterday I decide to wash my truck engine so I turn on the truck and it worked fine but my wifr decide to use and later on she was having problems turning it on but she was able to make it home this morning I turn it on but it died as soon as i turn it on now after i came from work the truck is not even starting up.

    I blamed the aftermarket alarm but after removing it still have the same proble so i dont know what to do I am waiting 30 minutes to connect the battery back

    Let me know
  • russellrmrussellrm Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 Tahoe LTZ with 77,000 miles on it that the electrical system went haywire with the locks cycling up and down, loss of power, radio and air shutting off. I have had it in the local dealer for almost three weeks with a two day break in between. Last weekend had to have towed as it went dead when I stopped and could not get it restarted. My question is if any one has had this problem resolved? I have the certified warranty but it is about to expire and I definetly don't want my wife and kids in this vehicle if they can't figure out what wrong!
  • laytonicolaytonico Posts: 4
    Russell,
    Had the same exact problem with my Tahoe just two weeks after I got it. Got it used with 50k miles. I took it to a few different dealerships before finding one dedicated enough to keep looking for the problem. The fix for mine was to replace the negative battery wire, terminal and the connector that is grounded to inside of engine compartment. At first the dealership replaced these parts and called me to pick it up. But they hadn't reset/cleared the error codes on the vehicles computer so it still acted up. Once they did both of these things I have not had this problem come up again. It's been 10k miles now without acting possessed! I wish GM would have the cojones to do a recall for this problem bc there seem to be hundreds of people with the same problem after looming through different online forums. Good luck
  • I have been experiencing the same problems. It started when I was driving down the road and the radio would pop on and off. I noticed that at the same time the dash lights would completely shut off. Then a few seconds later it would all come back on. I had not touched anything. Drove a few weeks with this bizarre thing happening. Then I went to the store and when I came out the clicker wouldnt work. Manually opened the car and it would not start. Tried 30 times and eventually it started. Drove it home and called AAA. They said it was the battery and to replace it. Did that. A few weeks later it started again, however this time the car actually stopped responding for a few seconds then came back. Pulled into a parkign lot immediately and called AAA again and they said my new battery had no charge. When he sat in the vehicle to try and start it, the gauges were moving and the car was making all these clicking noises. He felt the negative battery terminal and said it was absolutely too hot to touch. towed it to a local shop and they replaced the alternator. Another week goes by and I am driving and it proceeds to start again. It has left me in a lot while it took me 10 minutes to try and start it. I read where people are replacing negative battery cables, terminals and connectors. Is this the solution. I have spent 600 on a car I have had 2 months. Please help. I am a mom with kids who travels with sports and I cannot get left on a highway somewhere. Thanks for helping.
  • My 01 Tahoe did the same thing.. ac would blow softer, lights dim all of that. I put another chasis ground for the battery and it took care of it. I have an Optima Yellow top and it has side terminals and top posts. I took a piece of 8 guage wire (strand core) and connect a post terminal connector to it. I then ground the other end to the brace bar that runs across the top of the battery area. Simply unbolt one end, grind a shiny spot and the stick the wire in between the bar and the car. DONE. No problems.. Im going to go back and put a propper connector on the end of it and also upgrade some other wires.
  • kcmackkcmack Posts: 1
    I live in the Houston area too. May I get the name of the shop for my 2007 Tahoe. But first, please tell me if they were able to fix your problems. Thanks.
  • Well after two days I found out that my problem was not the Bcm it was dlsi fuse that controls the security on the truck (kill switch). As soon as I replaced the $.50 fuse my truck started with no problem but I have not re-installed my aftermarket alarm yet
  • I had the same thing happen to me on a used 2009 Tahoe I bought with 52K miles on it. At first I thought it was a random fluke, but then it progressively worsened/became more frequent. I took it in to a Chevrolet Dealer and here's what they did:

    -Replaced 175watt megafuse on the firewall behind the battery.
    -Replaced Positive and Negative Battery Cables.
    -Replaced Alternator Cable and Starter Cable.
    -Cleared any/all codes and reset computers.

    Apparently there is a Technical Service Bulletin on the issue, and it's basically caused by corrosion (microscopic) on the screws holding that fuse onto the firewall, causing electrical resistance in the main power cables. I don't live near the coast, this truck has been in arid Texas for it's entire life, to me this says metal composition was shoddy to begin with for two screws, which cost me $800 to ultimately repair due to a mistake GM made.

    $800 and a week later and I haven't had the same problem again. This frustrates me so much, because I too was stranded on random roads and highways, often hundreds of miles from home, while I tried to figure out what was going on. Once it was on a rural two lane road with no street lights, keep in mind the tahoe is black, and I had to stop on the road (nowhere to pull off) and turn it off to try to restart it. Because I had no power to anything, I couldn't even turn on my emergency flashers. I could have been killed by an unsuspecting person topping the hill and rear-ending me at 60 mph.

    On top of this, I sold a perfectly reliable older Ford Mustang with 130K miles on it that I had for years, that all I EVER had to do was normal maintenance (brakes, oil changes, tune ups). I bought this Tahoe to upgrade, not pay for some expensive shiny tin can that's going to fall apart any second due to faulty engineering/low quality parts.

    My family and I have always purchased Ford vehicles, and often owned them 10+ years without things like this going wrong. This was my first Chevrolet/GM vehicle, and will most likely be my last. I'm fairly upset that a company experiencing financial issues (WE ALL ARE!!) would put the lives of its customers at risk without thinking twice, or at least upon reading the THOUSANDS of reports of this issue, own up to the mistake and make it right.
  • t_text_tex Posts: 25
    It's Lonestar Automotive Electric but before you go there I would look at repair made by amandatxag.
  • bran164bran164 Posts: 13
    My latest update on my electrical bugs continues. A couple of weeks ago I took my truck back to the shop to get checked out due to the lights and sensors flashing on and off again. They couldn't find anything. So, after reading blogs on here I narrowed the trouble shooting down to ignition switch, BCM, or alternator. I have already replaced the master fuse and battery cables. My mechanic replaced the ignition switch and called me when the truck finally started freaking out on him too. However, he couldnt get the truck to start, just a ton of lights, sensors and codes popping. So they checked the BCM and discovered that's where the problem was coming from. So I replaced the switch the BCM and had it re-coded. Only been a couple of days but we'll see how it goes.
  • celliecellie Posts: 1
    Had an issue similar to yours but my died for good. I thought it was my battery but it ended up being my Control Module. The input was good and that is why diagnostics were good but no answers. The input good, but nothing came out. My truck would do strange things like windshield wipers would randomly go off with the fluid and I would have to turn off the truck to get it to stop, my stabilitrac would say it needed service and then turn itself off. This should take care of it, however it is pricey... Over $500 to fix.... But it now runs way better :)
  • v8lvr77v8lvr77 Posts: 1
    I had the same issues as you with the exception of it going completely dead without the ability to restart. I took it to the dealership and they couldn't find anything wrong. I left. It happened again...locks cycling up and down, radio goes off and on, a/c resets itself at 74 degrees, DIC lights flashing in dash, gears switching on dash from Drive to Park, temp gauge and compass in rearview was scrambled, limited acceleration, goes completely dead (like it shorted out) when i turn the truck off, gauge needles flicker, then a "click". Good as new. Took it back to the dealership only for the guy to say again that he can't find anything wrong. I told him to check the voltage because the voltmeter would fluctuate when it happened. He tested the voltage and said he did find a voltage problem. Checked cables and discovered the positive battery cable was chafed. It was replaced. This was May 30th. Thought all was well until last Wednesday, August 8th. Same thing happened. Took it back to the dealership. They had it for two days and said YET AGAIN, they can't find anything wrong. I figured these mechanics apparently had no clue of what they were doing. I picked up my truck and took it to an electrical auto shop. The guy ran a diagnostics and said there were no codes. He said it was possible that the dealership cleared the codes because he knew that I couldn't have "recycled" my truck more than 30 times in two days. He drove it home to see if it would act up on him and, of course, it didn't. However, the next morning he said he went to start it and the truck did nothing. He checked the battery and he said that volt tester read my battery being at 13.9. So, it wasn't the battery. He started testing other areas of the truck and he said that in some areas it was reading 6.9 to 7.3. He stated it appeared to be a floating grounding issue. He placed a rubber clamp and it appeared to fix the problem. He drove it back to the shop that morning. He replaced a ground wire, replaced the ground wire body, and cleaned off other grounded areas. He had to remove the bumper in order to perform this task. It cost me $477. I got it back today so lets see if that does it because I have had it with my possessed truck.
  • v8lvr77,
    I'm glad that you and the mechanic seem to have gotten to the bottom of the electrical concerns on your Tahoe. If you end up wanting for us to follow up on your visit to our dealership, please let us know. We can be contacted at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name, contact information, the last 8 of your VIN, and the name of your dealership).
    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • i have a 2007 chevy tahoe i bought brandnew and again and aain she goes from point a to point b and bamb she shuts off no reason wont start cant jump start only a few times were we able to jump start but again here it is 2012 and she is dead again and CHEVY CORP is giving me run around they wont help??????she has been towed so many times for SAME problem from road side assistance and they wont help me now?????wtf?????she is dead in my driveway and i have no one top help me?????im am a VERY VERY VERY UNHAPPY consumer :confuse:
  • Good morning karena73,

    We're sorry to hear about the situation with your Tahoe. Do you have a Service Request open with Customer Assistance at this time (71-**********)? If you wanted for us to check for any updates, please send that number (or the last 8 of the vehicle's VIN) to us at socialmedia@gm.com with your inquiry.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • canyousaylemoncanyousaylemon Posts: 6
    edited September 2012
    My 2008 Tahoe has been at the dealer for over three and a half weeks now. Not to include the previous visits. I am absolutely appalled that GM can not even figure out what is wrong with the cars they make and sell people. My Tahoe has been having some sort of electrical problem for months now. It never starts in the morning. We have to jump start it daily, or if it sits over 4 hours. It loses power driving down the road. My clock resets every night. I stalled out with my 3 children in the car, as I was turning onto our road, and almost got hit. Dealer has replaced battery, alternator, reset codes daily, positive and negative battery cables, heated seat modules, you name it. When does GM have to step up and fix their problem? This is ridiculous. Do they want their wives and children driving in these vehicles? I love my car when it runs...this is our 5th GM vehicle, but it is surely our last. If we don't get this fixed soon, I am going to rent out newspaper and billboards to advertise for GM......I am making a $500 payment every month, yet I am running around borrowing cars from family members so I can get to work...REALLY!
    I have been reading this forum for months...I've read of numerous people with the same problem, and have never seen one person with a solution. The GM Customer Service people just say "Oh, do you want us to help follow your issue?" when do they solve the issue? Even when people say they pay to take it elsewhere, the response is the same, "Glad to hear we could help" really...I haven't seen anyone get help yet!!!!!
  • I would love to hear if you pursue legal action. I am fed up as well.
  • Good afternoon canyousaylem,

    Have you gotten a Service Request started through Customer Assistance on the difficulties you've been having with your Tahoe? I understand that you're frustrated, and if you would like for us to look into this further we'd be happy to do so. Please email us at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your involved dealership).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • Could you tell me what you are going to do when I give you the requested information? I haven't seen a single person in these 347 posts that has actually been helped. Is this site actually a place to get help, or just a place to vent and see how many other people are having their lives ruined by GM? As I search the internet, I see more and more people with my exact same issue. Not one has found a fix or received any assistance from GM. Is there a lot of 2008 Lemon Tahoes sitting somewhere?
  • Is your Tahoe still starting? Did this fix work for you?
  • It seems to me that GM customer service is always willing to take your Tahoe in to look at it, but never offer a free diagnostics of the problem. Another way for GM to make money off of us without recalling the issue when there are so many with this issue.
  • As wise consumers we need to recognize that just because they are "the dealer" they don't necessary know what's best for your pocket book. YES- if your car is on warranty, take it to the dealer, BUT - if you're out of warranty, find an honest car mechanic and keep tabs on them in terms of what they are doing to your car. I recently had a situation where the car went into the dealer for a loud noise coming from 08 Chev Tahoe front wheels. They charged my wife $100 to look at the car and tell her that they thought that the brake pads on the front wheels were not CHEV OEM Equipment and as such, even though it didn't need pads, we should get it replaced. Well, My brother in law suggested we take the wheel off to look at the drum. First, we found 2 (side by side) lug nuts that hadn't been tightened. The lug nuts were loose and could removed by hand. Then - we found this small screw had been stripped and was partially protruding from the drum. It's a set screw from the factory. Well, the DEALER mechanic put the wheel back on even though this screw wasn't flush with the drum. Hence, wheel was at an angle and each time I applied the brakes, the car would make loud squeal. For those out there reading this, realize that we are going through tough economic times and you need to be a WISE shopper and consumer. This theory seriously applies to your car - a very important part of your life. In my situation, I called the dealer's service to report the matter. BUT - what about all the other situations where they are collecting $100 or more from people just for looking at their cars? Participate in these only forums. Read expert's opinions here and then do your own reading to confirm that information. I remember getting valuable advice form an EdMonds Forum user who worked as a mechanic for a long time. He was right on the money when he told me about my original electrical problem on the 08 Chev Tahoe. It was as he said - a connection problem with the battery negative terminal. The new battery I put in from Auto Zone had smaller top posts and the factory cables were not tightening enough to make it a concrete electrical connection. Dealer wants $96.00 for that cable. It cost me nothing to remove the cable, grind down the connectors so that they would close tighter. Problem was resolved, but not before mechanic convinced me to get a new alternator ($350). I was on my 3rd battery from Auto Zone before I figured out the problem. Next time you drive into a service station, keep in mind that the mechanics there see you as a bag full of money. (Smile...)
  • Good afternoon canyousaylemon,

    If you were to send us the requested information, we would get a Service Request set up and would contact your service department at your dealership to learn more from them about the diagnostics that have been done. We would potentially send your case to a different department for continued assistance so we could hopefully move this towards a satisfactory resolution.

    Kindest regards,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • Yes, I also have one of the 2008 Chevy Tahoe lemons. Mine is still having electrical issues, dealer just says they can't duplicate. It sat for a week straight, they never fixed it, just gave it back. The wipers don't work properly, headlights turn on auto but won't shut off, we've had door locks go out, total power failure to the right side (wiring harness came loose). Now the radio started with the popping noise and shutting off issue yesterday. We also have an 02 Tahoe, never had one problem. This 08 is a nightmare.

    Has your issue been resolved yet?
  • Hello astevens1,

    If you would like for us to check in with your dealership on recent appointments to get these issues diagnosed, we'd be happy to do so for you. Please send us more details at socialmedia@gm.com including: your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your involved dealership.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
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