Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevrolet Tahoe Electrical Problems

1910111315

Comments

  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,068
    franey99,

    We're sorry to hear that you're having these troubles with your Tahoe. If you haven't already contacted an attorney and want for us to check into this further with you, please email us more details at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, a brief summary of the situation, and the name of your dealership).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • we have a 2008 suburban with DVD, navigation, cd player. Our truck will seem fine and then in the morning be completely dead - it won't turn over or do anything. We thought it was after we ran the dvd player or had the radio on for a long time that it would die, but we have taken it to our dealer and they can't find anything wrong. They do believe it is NOT the dvd or radio, but that there is a draw somewhere and the dvd just causes it to drain faster. We NEED this fixed- my wife drives the truck, we have 3 kids with #4 on the way and we can't have her out somewhere and not have the truck start. We have now noticed the voltage gauge drops if we drive for long, but seems to recharge when we turn it off - the opposite of what you would think would happen. Any ideas? We are at our wits end with this thing!
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,068
    jimes69,
    It looks like you're working with your dealership on this already. If you would like for us to follow up on this with them, please email us at socialmedia@gm.com with more details (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a brief summary fo the situation thus far).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • I had same issues.. Found the fix.. Remove the spare tire.. There is a bundle of wires that go into the fuel pump module. wiggle those wires.. I found one of those wires were getting a bad connection.

    I cleaned ALL of those wire connectors and made sure they were getting a tight connection and problem went away.

    I was having same symptoms.. all lights would go on and off loss of engine power door locks going crazy

    Hope it helps.
  • I have a 2003 Tahoe Z71, 5.4 liter engine. The list of electrical issues are as follows:
    1. Cruise control cuts off when I use the turn signal
    2. Cruise control will not work if headlights are on
    3. Rear access door light stays on
    4. Turn signal when I step on brake clicks faster
    5. Turn signal when activated on left, right mirror lights will lightly blink
    6. Turn signal when activated on right, left mirror lights will lightly blink
    7. When brake is applied turn signal indicator opposite signal on dash and mirror will blink dimly
    8. When turn signal is activated with headlights, brake on-back tail lights,both yellow lights blink red turn signal light dimly blinks
    9. When turn signal is activated with headlights off back tail lights-yellow light blinks normal
    Does any one have any idea what may be causing the problem?
  • I have the same problem 2009 Tahoe LTZ first my GPS stereo turns of and on automatically, not I notice the headlights are flickering. Does anyone have a solution to the problem before I take it to the dealer cause I am sure they wont be able to reporoduce the problem and will give me the run around. Pleasee help.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,068
    mephipps1,
    I hope you're able to get some good insight from the community here (I am limited in my access to technical information or I would certainly provide more information). If you go into the dealership, please be sure to keep us updated; we're also available to check into this further with them if you wanted to email us at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, a summary of the situation, and the last 8 digits of your VIN).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • ag75ag75 Posts: 8
    I wish I had an answer for you. After several thousands of dollars in diagnostic attempts and a new BCM (as well as several other replaced parts) a solution was never found. GM never responded to my requests for help. I found a great mechanic willing to try everything he could think of. He even contacted other mechanics mentioned in this forum to brainstorm. I had ended up leaving the Tahoe with him to drive on a daily basis to try to get first hand experience with the problem. He stopped driving it when it lost power on a highway with his kids in the car. After my vehicle lost power on the interstate again (this was approximately the third time) I felt I had no choice left but to get rid of it. I hope you have better luck than I did.
  • Does anyone know where to get an electrical wiring diagram for my truck?

    **** I am trouble shooting why my "Rear Hatch" switch doesn't work.

    I have power to the "Rear Hatch" switch. I removed the actuator from the rear cargo door and jumpered it to the battery. It actuates each time I touch the battery terminals. I am not getting voltage to the actuator when the switch is depressed. (I have two extra switch I bought from a local junk yard - AC Delco doesn't make these any more.) I purchased a Chiltons manual from a local auto parts store. The wiring diagram is very basic.

    The power is supplied from a "DR LOCK FUSE 20A" which is hot at all times. This is located in the - Left Bussed Electrical Center. I looked in the left side fuse panel. There is one 20A fuse which is labeled "CTSY". This fuse has high resitance - 16.5 OHM. The rest of these fuses have average of 0.5 OHM.

    The basic electrical diagram mentions a "Right Bussed Electrical Center". I can not find this fuse panel or fuseable links. I need to verify voltage from the left side panel to this location to help trouble shoot my potential short.

    Best Regards,

    Jason Hampton
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,193
    Try bbbind.com.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • mhamm1mhamm1 Posts: 1
    Hi, I've had several issues with my 2008 Tahoe LS over the past 24 months and am about at wits end. These problems seem to be constantly coming and going with this vehicle.

    My vehicle is currently at the dealership.

    The latest intermittent behaviour is:
    - Put the key into the ignition and go to start the vehicle.
    - Sometimes nothing will power up and you might get one loud click.
    - Sometimes the engine lamp illuminates but nothing else powers up.
    - Turn the key back to the off position and attempt to start again.
    - The vehicle will start on retrying but the clock on the radio would reset.
    This has been going on intermittently since about Dec 9th.
    This last week around Dec 30th the radio finally died and is no longer functioning.
    The dealer says the radio will have to be replaced.

    Prior to this, the car was in the shop 3 times over a 3 week period in 2012 for a similar behaviour where intermittently:
    - Put the key into the ignition and go to to start the vehicle
    - Sometimes nothing will power up and you might get one loud click.
    - The battery would be completely drained.
    - Apply a jump pack to the vehicle and jump start it.
    The vehicle would then start and do so over approximately a week until the battery drained again.

    I turns out the vehicle's AC blower motor was engaging while the vehicle was not started, i.e. no key in the ignition. They replaced the blower motor and relay to the blower motor, however the battery drain and failure to start persisted.

    The dealership believed that it might be a short in the battery cable but could not definitively prove that. They suggested that if it happened again I should manipulate the cable to see if it would then start and if it did bring it back in. It did not happen again for several months until the the most recent behavior began happening. I have not had to manipulate the battery cable to get the vehicle to start on a second attempt.

    There were other issues with door locks and AC vent doors prior to this, all of which seem to be electrical problems. All of this on a vehicle that is about 4 years old with 49,000 miles on it.

    So, with the latest issue, where do I even begin? I'm in the shop for repair, but I have little faith that a real root cause will be found.

    This is my second Tahoe and I am extremely disappointed with the quality of the vehicle.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,068
    mhamm1,

    Keep us posted on what you hear from the dealership. If you would like for us to follow up on anything, please contact us at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, and a summary of the findings at your dealership).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • impy5impy5 Posts: 1
    I have same issues with my speakers, back up sensors and signals. Were you able to resolve this problem?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,068
    impy5,

    Hopefully llb57 will chime in here soon with more information on how the situation was/wasn't resolved. If you were thinking about working with a dealership towards resolving this, please contact us at socialmedia@gm.com as we're happy to assist in that process.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • 2004 Chevy Suburban
    -no codes!!
    -air bag light is on & controls on steering wheel not working
    -As I stated: no codes and the controls on the steering wheel work but are not transmitting past the steering wheel(this was check today at Car Toys)
    -Initially thought that the clock spring was bad but the cruise and horn work fine.
    -I have looked for wiring diagram for under driver's seat because: 2 orange wires are not connected. Could this be the culpret?
    --Any help is appreciated
  • did it just lose power out of no where? this morning I was on my way into work on the interstate adn everything was running fine and then the needled started sropping and the motor was dead. would roll over and acts like ti wants to fire but it just stop running. Everything else still had power. I know the 99's have a tendancie to have the same stuff go wrong on deffierent ones and am hoping this is a starting point to diagnose. How did you know it was the module? was there a way of testing it?

    My 99 is sitting in the drive way dead and we are down to one car between my wife and myself adn I work a half hour from home which makes it hard for her to get our daughter from school. Any details you can off would be most appreciated. I am looking for a lead because I am dumbfounded as to how it could just die with no warning signs.

    thanks
  • On my 97 GMK K1500, that actually sounds like what I ran into with my fuel pump going out TWICE!!.. Once was running fine, but when I went out to the truck and tried to start it, it would just crank and crank.. But no fire.. When a second pump was going out, it would intermittently just die and sometimes restart, sometimes even though it would crank fine, a jump start would help to get it started.. Again it was a fuel pump.... So I'm guessing your stuck with the same failure...
  • I have had the same issues with my 2008 Chevy Tahoe. In the past 3 weeks it has been in the repair shop at the dealership I bought it at and after each time they claimed to have fixed the "going dead" problem... the problem still persisted. So... after the 3rd time the dealership refused to do anymore service on my vehicle...... so I took it to another GM dealership and they did a diagnostic and determined that my navigation radio wasn't fully turning off after I turned the vehicle off causing my battery to slowly drain and eventually kill after a couple days. They said I would need to replace the battery. I didn't want to spend the $1300 so they unhooked the radio so my battery wouldn't drain. Well... this was about a week ago... and just today the "Service Battery Charging System" light came on along with the red battery light. I immediately took it to an autoparts store and they tested the battery which came out as being weak. So... the dealership bought the vehicle from couldn't figure out the problem... but still cost me diagnostic fees, inconveniences without a vehicle, etc, and now what I thought was a radio issue.... could be something totally different now. I am to my WITS end with this hunk of junk.
  • I have had the same issues with my 2008 Chevy Tahoe. In the past 3 weeks it has been in the repair shop at the dealership I bought it at and after each time they claimed to have fixed the "going dead" problem by replacing a BCM and a module sensor,... the problem still persisted. So... after the 3rd time the dealership refused to do anymore service on my vehicle...... so I took it to another GM dealership and they did a diagnostic and determined that my navigation radio wasn't fully turning off after I turned the vehicle off causing my battery to slowly drain and eventually kill after a couple days. They said I would need to replace the radio. I didn't want to spend the $1300 so they unhooked the radio so my battery wouldn't drain. Well... this was about a week ago... and just today the "Service Battery Charging System" light came on along with the red battery light. I immediately took it to an autoparts store and they tested the battery which came out as being weak. So... the dealership bought the vehicle from couldn't figure out the problem... but still cost me diagnostic fees, inconveniences without a vehicle, etc, and now what I thought was a radio issue.... could be something totally different now. I am to my WITS end with this hunk of junk.
    I have spoke on the phone with 3 different GM customer relations representatives and they were as much help as the place I purchased my vehicle. How many things, that are the SAME issues, to all these different GM vehicles have to occur before a recall is done and customers get some satisfaction instead of just dishing out money for diagnostics, parts, etc. and nothing is ever fixed. I will never buy another GM product. Worthless!!!!!
  • rokforrokfor Posts: 4
    edited April 2013
    Ok, I've read post after post after post of these same electrical problems with no real solution. Did anyone ever truly get theirs fixed?

    Mine is having the same issues while driving, door locks going up and down, gauges moving back and forth, lights flickering, sometimes the tahoe shutters, and this usually happens anywhere from 3-10 seconds. And when this does occur, when I get to my destination and shut off the car, then it always goes completely dead. Then I can hear a intermittent clicking noise coming from the door locks and under the dash, but nothing works at all. I always disconnect/reconnect my battery cables, and it always temporarily solves the problem. This may happen a couple of times a day or it may drive normal for a month or so. I bought the tahoe used in april 2012, and it did this off and on until around oct 2012. Then it ran perfect up for about 6 months, and now yesterday it did it again.

    I don't have a ton of money to throw at it, and I usually do all car repairs myself, but this has got me stumped. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • t_text_tex Posts: 25
    We had this problem and threw a bunch of money at the problem and it was eventually fixed but we probably got somewhat taken (bunch of parts replaced). I've kept up with the posts that have had similar problems and it seems like it is always related to bad grounding. This could be at the battery, at wherever the main ground is on the engine, or at the megafuse on the passenger side of the firewall. I would definitely make sure all your grounds are clean and tight before I threw any big money at it.
  • jchayesjchayes Posts: 4
    The problems I have with my 2007 XLT is just a dead car situation. It appears to happen once a year and right before we leave for spring break. Two weeks ago it happened again. I opened up the hood and removed both battery cables and connected them together for about a minute. I have heard this acts like a system re-boot. Put cables back on the battery and the truck started right up. Guess I am good for another year.

    To the Chevy employees watching. Please do not respond and tell me you are happy I have found a fix or that it is great the car is working again. This is not a fix to a problem that is serious and causes all of us grief.

    Hope this helps others avoid the dealership or local shop.
  • rokforrokfor Posts: 4
    So the ground was the issue? How long has it been since you've had any issues with it? I guess i'll try adding a couple more ground wires.

    Another thing I've noticed is that a lot of us are in Texas, so I was thinking it could be something getting too hot, which could be ground/wire related.

    Thanks for the input!
  • So I had started the route of trying to weave through GM's Customer Service tangled web, and one of their reps contacted me regarding the issues I had brought up in a forum regarding some issues I was dealing with.. After trying to to go through a dealer, then with a district specialist and even his supervisor I maintained contact with a rep (Louis) from this forum.. After talking with the supervisor, I tried to get further information from Louis for continued pursuit and wasn't getting any response... Today I tried to email him and he no longer has an account to email to??? Has GM decided Customer Service matters so little to them that they closed that department down and let them all go???? Guess since the government bailed them out, they don't need to worry about customer satisfaction (or safety) anymore...
  • jchayesjchayes Posts: 4
    It has been a few weeks since my latest issue then a year before that. I am in northern Nevada where it is cold in the winter so no correlation to heat.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,068
    Hi burned_twice,

    I'm sorry that you have not received a response. We recently made a few changes and Crystal and Jackie are now monitoring this forum. I would be happy to take a look into this for you. Can you send me an email with your full name, and Vehicle Identification number please so I can look up your case and provide you with an update? Look forward to hearing from you:-). My email address is socialmedia@gm.com "attn Crystal" in the subject line.

    Crystal L - GM Customer Care
  • dalemddalemd Posts: 1
    My 2003 Tahoe has recently been experiencing several electrical issues. It sporadically needs to be jump started even after normal use and no lights left on or doors open, and door locks started having a mind of their own. I just replaced the 4-year-old battery but now the door locks are on a rampage! They lock and unlock in different sequences, sometimes randomly while parked, and the radio wont turn on (as though its security setting has been activated). I'm also getting a very rough idle when the A/C turns off and on. I've had two shops check voltages and everything comes up clean between the battery and alternator. Is there some kind of system reset that can fix all this? My hoe is a mess!
  • shelftexshelftex Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2008 Tahoe last week and I am already experiencing electrical issues. I had my husband disconnect the battery cable and replace them, which fixed the problem, temporarily from the sounds of it. Why is it that GM cannot figure out the problem with this??? This is a serious problem with vehicles shutting off while driving, not starting up, locks trapping people inside...these are not minor issues and it is obviously a rampant problem. It took me 5 minutes to find numerous sites complaining of the same issues. What is GM doing about it?
  • jthom4jthom4 Posts: 1
    This morning was the THIRD TIME THIS YEAR that I've had electrical issues come up with my 2009 Tahoe. The first two times, the car died completelty. The first time, I was told it was due to getting new tires and the tire people not resetting the sensors correctly. The second time, I was told I needed a new battery.

    This morning AS I WAS DRIVING TO WORK, the dash flickered and the "stabilitrak off" sign lit up. A few minutes later, the same thing happened, along with the seat belt sign flashing on as though I was not wearing my belt when in fact I was. Thankfully I made it to work, popped open the hood - keep in mind that I am 6 months pregnant - checked the battery for any leaks, loose connections, etc. and didn't find a thing. I didn't lock all the doors so that I can get in later just in case the thing dies while I'm in the office. Based on what I've read from others on this forum, disconnecting and reconnecting the battery could be a temporary fix. Guess I'll try that during my lunch break....

    My husband and I bought this car thinking we'd get a safe auto for our growing family, and so far, that decision has been a big mistake. I haven't even delivered yet, and already have had to call AAA twice in the last six months to help me out bc the dealership doesn't know what the H to do.

    I dread to imagine what will happen after my son is finally here in three months and I'm driving with him in the car when the car dies!! Hopefully we won't be trapped inside bc the doors won't unlock!
  • fixmycar13fixmycar13 Posts: 4
    I feel for you. I still have my 2003 suburban. I spent 3800 bucks fixing it up. New water pump, new brakes, fuel filter etc... Now, the weird thing is that I believe now my fuel pump was going out sporadically and what I thought was an electrical problem was really my fuel pump going out. My stereo hums with the transmission now and I have to bang the console to get it to shut up. I'm sorry but go and get a Honda Pilot. When I tried trading in my suburban, they were only going to give me 4000 bucks so I kept it. Honda rocks, Chevy sucks unless you have the time and money to keep taking it in to get fixed. Cut your losses and get out of that truck as fast as you can without losing your shirt. I have 4 boys and it served it's purpose but at a dear cost.
Sign In or Register to comment.