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2011 Tahoe LTZ 43k- Major frustration with a repeated DEAD BATTERY!! It happened about 8x over the past 3 months. Drive to store....go into the store..back out and its DEAD! Jump it and drive home and its fine for a while. No rhyme or reason!! It happened this sunday and again tuesday so i took it in to a local shop for a new battery. They tested the battery w car on and off 13.8v, starter and ignition checked out as well. I see that battery issues seem to be pretty common.....any real solution to this headache?? thx Brian
Are there Chevy reps on this sight?
Thanks for the post traveler2012 and everyone else here. Experienced the same thing with my 2008 GMC Sierra. Was traveling down the interstate and my power locks, radio, gauges went haywire for a few seconds and went away. Did this a few times over a two week period and didn't treat it seriously enough to take it in until it lasted several minutes on my way to work on day. I recently had the battery replaced with an Auto Zone battery so I took it back to the shop that did it for me. They were scratching their heads until I found this forum while I was waiting and shared it with them. The terminals on these batteries are smaller and caused a bad connection. Has only been a short time but haven't had any more issues.
Thanks again for everyone posting this and I maybe someone with a Sierra issue finds mine and it helps them.
I have a 2009 LTZ. I have not had any issues while driving. However, two times last month I went into the truck to start it, and everything appeared dead (except the battery was fine). I also had the rapid clicking of the doorlock solenoids. Several posts on here mentioned the same problem. Both times I was able to get everything working again by disconnecting the battery, waiting 15 minutes and reconnecting (resetting all electronics). My problem seemed to be initiated with the slamming of the passenger door or the power passenger running boards going up. After reading other posts on here, I inspected all battery cable connections...and they seemed fine. But I decided that I didn't like the Negative Battery Terminal connecter, as it is a 1.5" machine crimp. Even though no corrosion was visible on the outside, I cut it appart with my Dremel tool. The copper wire was greenish/black at the two pinch points (all of the way around), and the connecter metal was brownish/black rather than grey. It wasn't the worst corrosion I've ever seen, but it definitely looked like the root of my problem. I replaced the terminal connector with a $4 part from Autozone, and cleaned/sealed the connection. I have been fine for two weeks. I will respond again in a month or two to let you all know if it is still working. Thanks for all of your comments and advice. If this continues to work I'll be writing a letter to GM identifying the problem and how quickly/cheaply it could be recalled/corrected for people. If this doesn't fix it, I will commence war on GM.
For some reason I could not get into my old account, but here is the issue I've been having that was posted a while back...
"Mine is having the same issues while driving, door locks going up and down, gauges moving back and forth, lights flickering, sometimes the tahoe shutters, and this usually happens anywhere from 3-10 seconds. And when this does occur, when I get to my destination and shut off the car, then it always goes completely dead. Then I can hear a intermittent clicking noise coming from the door locks and under the dash, but nothing works at all. I always disconnect/reconnect my battery cables, and it always temporarily solves the problem. This may happen a couple of times a day or it may drive normal for a month or so. I bought the tahoe used in april 2012, and it did this off and on until around oct 2012. Then it ran perfect up for about 6 months, and now yesterday it did it again."
A few weeks ago I discovered that I don't actually have to disconnect the negative battery cable, but if I just grab the negative cable and pull on it, then all power comes back like nothing ever happened. The only thing that could be affected by pulling on the cable, is the cable itself or the Battery Current Sensor. The battery current sensor is located about 10-12 inches down the cable from the battery. I think that the sensor was giving incorrect current signals to the ECM. I inspected the battery cable, but could find no corrosion, nicks, cuts, or anything, but I went ahead and bought a new negative cable ($11) from NAPA. I also bought the Battery Current Sensor from the Chevy dealer, and surprisingly, it was only $22. So far, I haven't had anymore hiccups, but seeing as how my problem has been so random, we will see...
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