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Chevrolet Tahoe Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    It's under warranty...keep taking it back, and let them know what you are wiggling that get's it to work.
  • eric69eric69 Posts: 2
    Did you ever get this issue resolved? My 2008 Tahoe is doing the same thing. I have narrowed it down to the ground or negative. I can wiggle those 2 cords and everything will be fine. The dealership replaced the main fuse, but this didn't work. HELP.
  • That was the only & last occurence of those issues. The dealership never could ID the origin other than a battery issue (replaced) and a compter module update that was done as part of normal maintenance. Hope you get yours resolved. :confuse:
  • jen122jen122 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Chevy Tahoe that has been giving me major problems recently. The first time it happened I was sitting in the car with it idled and the interior lights on. Suddenly the lights started flashing on and off, the radio kept going in and out, all the indicator lights started flashing and it started making a weird clicking sound. I turned the car off and tried to restart it and it wouldn't turn over but the lights and radio, GPS, and locks kept going crazy. I swear it was like the car was possesed! Finally the battery just died and I had to get a jump and it started right up. I took it to my mechanic who said there were no problems he could find. The battery, alternator, and wiring all looked good. His only suggestion was that the after market upgrades we added could be going bad and interfearing with the system. (GPS, satellite radio) Since that time the car has run with absoluely no problem until this morning when the car wouldn't turn over. It just kept clicking and all the electrical components of the car including the alarm started going crazy. UGH! I'm at my wits end. Any suggestions?
  • I drive an 04 Z71 Tahoe and have many electrical problems that come and go on their own. Currently I am experiencing problems with the AC and Heat. By Itself, it toggles between heat and cold. If the fan it turned up the heat will go off, but again, at times the heat will stay on.
    The 4 wheel drive will show SERVICE 4WD, which I have. The 4 wheel drive will engage on its own, in low, I need to turn the vehicle off and on and eventually it will kick back into 2 wheel drive.
    The heated seat on the drivers side will kick the heated seat off on the passenger side off.
    I am some what frustrated as I have brought my vehicle in for repair and after spending money on diagnostic testing I still have the problems.
    Any thoughts I could share with my local dealership before dumping more money trying to figure out the problem?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited March 2010
    Hang a test wire off the main power buss at the fuss box, and monitor the voltage on the buss, to see what is happening when you have any failing conditions See if you have a main power buss voltage problem (voltage dropping too low), or it is good.

    If buss bad, check battery, alternator, main cables and connectors, grounds.

    If buss good, check BCM.

    The service manual should have a whole series of things the dealer should check.
  • suputosuputo Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    Did you ever figure out what was wrong? My Tahoe passenger door lost all power, windows, locks and heated seats. The key fob stopped working at the same time. Also - when the truck is running and the door is open, it doesn't register on the dash. You can't open the window from the drivers side either. Basically - this door no longer exists. Thanks in advance!
  • nealphxnealphx Posts: 6
    I have an 2009 Tahoe and when I use my turn signals or use the front window controls, the cruise control disengages. Does anyone know why this may occur? Also the "Service Stabiltrack" indicator light has come on a couple of times and when I use the window controls, the indicator light goes away...Thanks
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,104
    Hello,
    I am from GM Customer Service. Can you please email me at socialmedia@gm.com with more information with your concerns? Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Mariah,

    I would like to thank you for your active participation in trying to resolve customer problems. I am really impressed that you are proactively taking on these issues.

    Thanks again, makes me proud to be a GM owner !!
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,104
    Thank you for the very nice compliment! :) Thank you for being a loyal GM owner!
    Sincerely,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • Hi!

    I have a 1997 Tahoe with 4WD and Vortek engine. The problem I am having is that my truck dies while I am driving it. I have to pull over, put in neutral and try to restart on the fly. No joy. I am out of ideas on what to fix. Sometimes it starts right away, sometimes I have to get a jump, sometimes I have to turn truck off and then it starts, sometimes I am dead to the world like the battery is completely dead. I wiggle the battery cables and I am ok.

    1. Changed out battery. No change.
    2. Changed out negative cable on battery. No change.
    3. Fixed ground straps on engine compartment. No change.
    4. Altenator 45 amps at 14.1. Looks ok?

    I recently had my fuel pump stop working because of a broken ground strap in the engine compartment. That is why I am focusing on electrical issues.

    Also when I turn on blower, rear defrost my voltage drops and my lights dim momentarily.

    I am out of ideas on what do work on. It is super frustrating not being able to trust vehicle to go to work.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks!!!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Used to have a 97 Sub, but don't remember all the specs.

    45Amp out of the alternator seems low, I would have expected 100+ amps. Call a auto parts store and have them look up the alternator specs. Most will check your alternator and battery with a load tester free of charge. They put them under full electrical load, and check whether the alternator can put out full voltage and amperage, then also check the battery can hold it's charge and delivery rated output.
  • I had Auto Zone check new battery out and altenator since I quit believing my own judgement. They said both checked out fine. Altenator read while parked just with engine running. I am getting nowhere fast on this issue and it has been a couple of weeks now.
  • lilmac77lilmac77 Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    My '04 is having some issues.
    Has anyone ever figured out a solution to any of these issues???
    :confuse:
    ~key fobs do not work...(one will lock the doors occasionally),
    ~rear a/c & radio controls quit,
    ~right front running light alternately goes on and off
    ~the drivers side A/C toggled on its own while on a long trip but has not done it since
  • 1mrbig1mrbig Posts: 5
    It sound like you have a serius short or power draw in your electrical system. You can check electrical yourself . A Ampmeter is the best tool but if you dont have one a cheep electrical test light will do. Start By disconecting the positive cables. Put the one end of the test light between the starter cable ( thats the one that runs down to the back side of the motor ) If the test light light up thats where your problem is , either in the cable or the starter wire harnest. Then check the power cable between the battery and the fuse box under the hood. Put the test light between the battery and that cable . It should light up for a breif second and go out. if it stays on you have a problem in another circuit. If it stay on start pulling fuses unitl the test light go out ,what ever fuse you pull to make the light go out is your faulty circut.
  • I have the exact same problem with my 2003 Suburban. Since the weather began climbing above 95, its been happening almost every day. HELP!!
  • This doesn't act like a common fuse issue. It is intermitten. It acts like a relay or circuit board board problem. It seems to be sensitive to heat/cold. I just don't have any idea which relay or computer would control: Passenger door window, lock, seat-heater, power-mirror, AND the entire keyless entry system. Does anyone know?
  • 2007 Tahoe LTZ has an issue of not starting. Battery has been checked and is good. Will hear clicking noises in the door and have been told that this is a security system failure. Sometimes after waiting for 10 or more minutes it will start back up. At other times jumper cables have to be used to get it started. Grounding has been checked and is find. When the issue happens the remote won't work and none of the lights will work.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The BCM = Body Control Module
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,104
    Hello Waxstars19,
    I am from GM Customer Service. I apologize that you are experiencing concerns on your vehicle. Can you please email me more information about your situation so I can look into it further? You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • I also have a 97 tahoe that has electrical problems. My fuel pump relay sometimes doesn't make contact because the contacts in the relay block are bent from someone sticking a volt meter probe in them when my fuel pump went out. Check the bottom of the relay out for melted plastic to see if it's been arcing out. I put a 1/4 thick scotch bright pad between the top of the relay and the cover to help it make a better connection.
    Hope this helps if you haven't figured it out yet.
  • boeing737boeing737 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe Z71 that has 106,000 miles on it and it runs great. For about a week the volts reading on the instrument cluster has been erratic, and now doesn't seem to be working at all. It started out fluctuating between 9-14 volts and then it went to 19. So I stopped at a local parts store and had them check the battery and it checked okay. Yesterday when I drove to work the gauges was pointed full right deflection down to the picture of the battery on the gauge, and it hasn't moved. So, what could it be?

    Thanks,

    Frank
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    FIrst thing to do, is to verify that the gauge is correctly reading the voltage on the battery. Buy yourself a voltmeter, can be as cheap as a couple bucks to maybe 10 or 15. Tool supply stores, auto parts chains, Radio Shack, many places sell them. Measure the voltage on the battery posts, as well as the voltage on the wire terminals, and compare to what the internal dashboard gauge says.

    I would first suspect a bad battery or corrosion on the battery terminal connection, or a bad/loose ground. But you could have a failing voltage gauge.
  • sunsetonesunsetone Posts: 2
    Are you aware of a cluster problem with 04 Tahoe's?

    I own a 04 Tahoe and the gauges became erratic. Over time all my gauges were effected and I had to have the cluster replaced. That is when I learned of the wide spread problem.
    I had it replaced about a year ago, and at that time, there was a "discount" for the cluster depending on the miles on the vehicle.

    This page may offer more information.

    Nationwide Speedometer and Instrument Cluster Repair
    Mar 29, 2010 ... GM Speedometer Recall 07187a service on 2003, 2004, 2005 and 2006 ... chevy S-10, corvettes, Suburban, Escalade, Bravada, Tahoe, Avalanche, ...
    www.instrumentclusters.com/ - Cached - Similar
  • mpi_mikempi_mike Posts: 3
    Hello All,
    I have a 2005 Tahoe LT with the power heated seats. Well they just started coming on all by themselves. Its only the divers side and it comes on full blast and then cycles down to off and back on again.
    It seems that the computer or relay thinks the switch is being activated- the switch on the door panel does not appear to be stuck in or anything.... Any/all help is much appreciated!!!

    -Mike
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,104
    Hello Mpi_mike,
    I apologize that you are experiencing a concern with your vehilce. Have you had anyone look at the vehilce to diganose the concern? Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • jringeljringel Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Tahoe with some gauge problems that seem to be intermittant. First it started with the speedometer. It would be fine, then freeze in position. If you turn the car off and then restart, it would start returning to zero. Of course that's if you start the car a couple of times to get the needle to "bounce" back to zero. Most of the time it's just the speedometer. Just today, I noticed the engine oscillating in RPM and the A/C fan doing the same. Doesn't do it all the time. Now the oil temp gauge is acting up. On a drive home, the temp went all the way to 80. Of course I stopped and checked the oil. Everything was fine. The water temp was in the normal range so I wasn't too concerned. Once I got home, I checked the voltage across the battery with the car running. The voltage reading was 12.9...well below 13.2 to 14.6 that its supposed to read. Figured the charging system was due for a check up. Checked the battery with the car off...voltage was 12.9. That's actually okay. Then restarted the car and found the battery voltage was reading 13.8. About normal for a charging system. (Scratching my head...) The speedometer thing has been going on for quite a while. Thank God I use a GPS so I know what my correct speed is. Now that other things are starting to crop up, I may have to take it somewhere to get it looked at. I am very disappointed in this vehicle. I spent over 40K on this thing. To have these electrical problems does not look good for GM!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    Read the forums for prior discussions on gauge problems.

    There are companies you can send your instrument cluster off to, who rebuild/repair the gauges. One I visited, had a video showing how to easily take out the cluster.
  • I have a 2003 suburban that I took to Ed Bozarth Chevorolet. If they knew there were problems with the speedometer and fuel gauge when I took it in while it was under warranty, why didn't they just replace it then? Now they want to charge me $569 bucks to replace it. We drove up to the mountains and when we came back down, the car was stalling with no power while on the highway. It was pretty scary when it happened the first time and it happened 3 more times before we got home after about a 90 mile drive. I'm very disappointed after spending so much money on my suburban. What a sink hole for money. It will stall and then start right back up. Has anyone fixed this problem with the stalling. It doesn't happen all the time and I think it has something to do with heat but I'm not sure.
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