Isuzu Axiom Maintenance and Repair

bertbcfm

Formating is weird but this is the best I can do so far. Anyone else out there have a better Isuzu specific list?? Even some of these descriptions need an interpretation.

Bert

Code Description
P1106 MAP Circuit Intermittent Voltage High
P1107
MAP Circuit Intermittent Voltage Low
P1108
Barometric Pressure Circuit Input High
P1111
IAT Sensor Circuit Intermittent Voltage High
P1112
IAT Sensor Circuit Intermittent Voltage Low
P1114
ECT Sensor Circuit Intermittent Voltage Low
P1115
ECT Sensor Circuit Intermittent Voltage High
P1121
TP Sensor Circuit Intermittent Voltage High
P1122
TP Sensor Circuit Intermittent Voltage Low
P1133
H02S Insufficient Switching Bank 1 Sensor 1
P1134
H02S Transition Time Ratio Bank 1 Sensor 1
P1153
H02S Insufficient Switching Bank 2 Sensor 1
P1154
H02S Transition Time Ratio Bank 2 Sensor 1
P1171
Fuel System Lean During Acceleration
P1297
Electrical Load Detector Circuit Input Low
P1298
Electrical Load Detector Circuit Input High
P1300
Random Misfire
P1336
CKP System Variation Not Learned
P1359
CKP/TDC Sensor Disconnected
P1361
TDC Sensor Intermittent Interruption
P1362
TDC Sensor No Signal
P1380
ABS Rough Road System Fault
P1381
Cylinder Position Sensor Intermittent Interruption, Misfire Detected (Except 1998 Rodeo)
P1381
ABS Rough Road Class 2 Serial Data Fault Or Link Error (1998 Rodeo)
P1382
Cylinder Position Sensor No Signal
P1390
G Sensor Circuit Intermittent Voltage Low
P1391
G Sensor Performance
P1392
G Sensor Voltage Low
P1393
G Sensor Voltage High
P1394
G Sensor Intermittent Voltage High
P1404
EGR Valve Stuck Closed
P1406
EGR Valve Pintle Position Circuit
P1441
EVAP System Flow During Non-Purge
P1442
EVAP Vacuum Switch Voltage High During Ignition On
P1459
EVAP Emission Purge Flow Switch Malfunction
P1491
EGR Valve Lift Insufficient Detected
P1498
EGR Valve Lift Sensor Voltage High
P1508
IAC System RPM Low
P1509
IAC System RPM High
P1546
A/C Compressor Clutch Output Circuit Malfunction
P1548
A/C Compressor Clutch Output Circuit Malfunction
P1607
PCM Internal Circuit Failure ‘‘A’’
P1618
SPI Communications Error
P1625
PCM Unexpected Reset
P1627
PCM A/D Conversion Malfunction
P1635
5 Volt Reference Voltage Circuit Malfunction
P1640
ODM 1 Input Voltage High (Except 1998 Rodeo)
P1640
ODM Output ‘‘A’’ Circuit Fault (1998 Rodeo)
P1650
Quad Driver Module ‘‘A’’ Fault
P1790
Trans ROM Checksum Error
P1792
Trans EEPROM Checksum Error
P1835
Trans Kickdown Switch Malfunction
P1850
Brake Band Apply Solenoid Malfunction
P1860
TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit Failure
P1870
Transmission Component Slipping

prsaxiom

i need a diagram for the replacement of a serpentine belt on my 2002 isuzu axiom, can you help me out? THANK YOU!!

walk_the_walk2

I have the service manual (workshop manual) for the O2 Axiom in PDF format. Found the exact page you need (pg. 836). The diagram is in the lower left hand corner of that page.

Saved this page as a one page PDF and loaded it up to our company's website, in the PDF Docs folder. PLEASE DOWNLOAD IT IN THE NEXT 24 HOURS - it will be deleted after that.

And, check out our great deals on specialty vitamin supplements while you are there!

Here is the info you seek:

************

http://www.vivagen.net/pdf_docs/2002_Isuzu_SerpentineBelt.pdf

link title

*************
Hope that helps. The serpentine belt is actually pretty easy to change out, once you have the diagram and figure out how the tensioner works. You can basically pop it on by hand if you get the tension off of it. Usually takes two people and a bright light, but no special tools. The guys at Jiffy Lube took mine off, couldn't find one that fit it, and then FORGOT how to get it back on! I had to get one myself from Autozone and do it myself, which saved me at least $30.

Good luck!

walk_the_walk2

Sure am getting my money's worth out of the Workshop (Service) manual for my Axiom, especially considering it cost about $20 online. Near the beginning of the service manual is this entry, which will really blow your mind, when it comes to the frequency of serving the automatic transmission fluid in an 02 Axiom. This is the literal quote, which I scraped off page 0B-7 in the Maintenance and Lubrication section:

"Automatic Transmission Fluid Replacement

Under harsh operating conditions, such as constant
driving in heavy city traffic during hot weather, or in hilly or
mountainous terrain, change the transmission fluid and
service the sump filter after every 20,000 miles (32,000
km) of operation.

More over, the remaining life percentage of ATF can be
estimated by using TECH–II as an auxiliary tool to judge
the right time for ATF replacement.

The remaining life percentage is calculated from ATF’S
heat history. When it is close to 0%, ATF replacement is
recommended."

However, if you look at the chart printed on page 0B-2 it says to change the automatic transmission fluid at 120,000 miles. And, this is the same chart found in the owners manual in the glovebox. So, there is a definite contradiction here, especially considering that changing the AT fluid is a tricky task best left to the dealer or someone with a tranny fluid exchange machine.

walk_the_walk2

Lots of trouble codes there, many of which are somewhat related. Has a rat chewed through your wiring harness??

Sounds like you have shorted your wiring harness, or have a bad wiring harness or a loose connector at the PCM module. A even more worst case scenario is a bad PCM module, which would be expensive, but hopefully is UNLIKELY.

Here are some details from the service manual, although there is a lot more info than I can post, but this may get you started:

**************************
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0401 EGR Flow Insufficient

Diagnostic Aids
Check for the following conditions:
*Poor connection or damaged harness – Inspect the
wiring harness for damage. If the harness appears to
be OK, observe the Actual EGR Position display on the
Tech 2 while moving connectors and wiring harnesses
related to the EGR valve. A change in the display will
indicate the location of the fault.
*Ensure EGR valve is correctly mounted. See
On-Vehicle Service.

Reviewing the Failure Records vehicle mileage since the
diagnostic test last failed may help determine how often
the condition that caused the DTC to be set occurs. This
may assist in diagnosing the condition.

NOTE: If the EGR valve shows signs of excessive heat,
check the exhaust system for blockage (possibly a
plugged catalytic converter) using the “Restricted
Exhaust System Check”.

************************************

P1125 ETC (Electric Throttle Control) Limit Performance Mode

Diagnostic Aids
An intermittent may be caused by the following:
* Poor connections.
*Mis routed harness.
6E–402 6VE1 3.5L ENGINE DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS
* Rubbed through wire insulation.
* Broken wire inside the insulation.
Check for the following conditions:
* Poor connection at PCM-Inspect harness connectors
for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken
locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and
poor terminal to wire connection.
*Damaged harness-Inspect the wiring harness for
damage. If the harness appears to be OK, observe the
AP sensor 1, AP sensor 2, AP sensor 3 display on the
Tech 2 while moving connectors and wiring harnesses
related to the sensor.
A change in the display will indicate the location of
the fault.
If DTC P1125 cannot be duplicated, the information
included in the Failure Records data can be useful in
determined vehicle mileage since the DTC was last
set.
If it is determined that the DTC occurs intermittently,
performing the DTC P1125 Diagnostic Chart may
isolate the cause of the fault.
DTC P1125

**********************************************************

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1295 ETC Power Management Mode

Diagnostic Aids
An intermittent may be caused by the following:
* Poor connections.
* Misrouted harness.
* Rubbed through wire insulation.
* Broken wire inside the insulation.
Check for the following conditions:
* Poor connection at PCM-Inspect harness connectors
for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken
6E–452 6VE1 3.5L ENGINE DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS
locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and
poor terminal to wire connection.
* Damaged harness-Inspect the wiring harness for
damage. If the harness appears to be OK, observe the
TP sensor 1, TP sensor 2 display on the Tech 2 while
moving connectors and wiring harnesses related to the
sensor.
A change in the display will indicate the location of
the fault. If DTC P1295 cannot be duplicated, the
information included in the Failure Records data can
be useful in determined vehicle mileage since the
DTC was last set.
If it is determining that the DTC occurs intermittently,
performing the DTC
P1295 Diagnostic Chart may isolate the cause of the
fault.

decababy

Thanks for all the help so far I will be taking this info to the mechanic and I will be checking back for more info.

cptsesso

Ya, I think that is why I was told every 30k is a safe bet. I am curious what the change interval is for some of the other vehicles which use the 4L30E trans?

stever

There are ways to convert a pdf image to a jpg, and then you could post that page in your CarSpace album.

Otherwise, some new owner is going to pop in here in two years trying to track it down again. Or maybe in two weeks.

walk_the_walk2

Dear 3h1ax02:

According to the Workshop manual for the 02 Axiom, the transmission oil filter is located in the main transmission pan, which is located on the bottom of the transmission. There is also a magnet in this pan, near the filter. The filter is an odd shape, designed to fit in the pan. To get to the filter, you have to drain the fluid, and remove the pan and gasket.

The drain plug (screw) is the larger one in the middle of the bottom of the pan. The fill screw (actually called the overfill screw) is located nearby, adjacent to the drain plug (screw). Believe it or not, you FILL the transmission through this overfill screw, until fluid comes out the overfill screw. HOW you do that I do not know, but I assume you need a special tool or hand pump at a minimum. The manual says this:

"Remove the transmission overfill screw (1) and fill
transmission through overfill screw opening, using
DEXRON)–III ATF.
NOTE: Add transmission fluid until it flows out over the
overfill screw opening.
5. Let engine idle until a fluid temperature between 32 deg C
(90 deg F) and 57deg C (135deg F) is reached.
6. Add transmission fluid until it flows out over the overfill
screw opening, then close the overfill screw."

It leaves out the step where you wipe the transmission fluid out of your eyes, nose and mouth, after getting it all over you!

It does include this handy note, about plug gaskets for BOTH screw plugs:

"NOTE: To prevent fluid leaks, the overfill screw and oil drain screws gasket must be replaced each time these screws are removed."

This is likely a dealer-supplied item, which should be purchased along with the filter and pan gasket.

Hope that helps.

shamwow

My immobilizer light has come on twice in the past two months and when it does, my car starts but there is no acceleration. I also have noticed that my light on the key is getting dim. Do these two have any correlation?

walk_the_walk2

Are you the ShamWow guy for real? I just loathe your commercials...

But, to your question, there is no such thing as an "Immobilizer light" on an Axiom, and in fact the word does not appear in the Service Manual anywhere. You must be referring to one of the other warning lights. If you can be more precise, Shamwow, I can look up the answer in the service manual and get back to you, but only if you promise to send me a full set of Shamwows for free (no just kidding).

Back to you...

stever

ShamWow? Dub Schwartz prefers a StickMop. :P

Now back to your regularly scheduled program.

tazmomto2

:confuse: My axiom needs the bank 1 &2 o2 sensors replaced. A mechanic quoted me $600-700.00 which seems steep to me considering the parts are 53.00 at an auto parts store. How difficult are these sensors to replace and where can I go to see a "how to" diagram online?

bertbcfm

They are not too hard to replace. Just make sure you get the exact right ones. Take them off with a deep wall socket or closed (box) end wrench. They can be hard to remove. A couple days of penetrating fluid wouldn't hurt. Do not use any silicone anything on the threads. Look back through the messages and got to the myisuzu site and you will see a picture as to where they are located. Let us know how it goes.

Bert

bertbcfm

That Is:

http://www.myisuzuparts.com/vin_menu.php

to see the 02 sensor locations

Bert

bertbcfm

It couldn't be that all of our wonderful Axioms are running like tops is it????

Gas gauge sender is shot and I'm cruising on the odometer and the MPG readout. Don't even want to think about pulling the tank and all of the hoses just to be convenienced by a working gas gauge.

Owning an Axion is helped by lowering your mechanical standards.

Bert

shogren

I cannot find the message about getting rid of the active shocks. Would appreciate any help . Is there any negatives for removing active shocks.Thanks

bertbcfm

I think it all starts on page 5, message #42. Go there and just start reading through the messages. Several people have successfully replaced the electronic shocks with regular shocks at great savings and much improved ride. I'm one of them. The only down side is that it is somewhat difficult to remove the original shocks. If you want have a trusted garage do it or if you have access to a lift it's not too bad. Look at the later shock messages, there are part numbers to order by.

Regards
Bert --- no damn gas gauge

walk_the_walk2

Bert was the first to report on this, but when I followed suit, I detailed the process in 10 steps on page 7 message 61. I switched to Monroe Sensatrac shocks, after consulting with their support group.

You can disconnect the electronics yourself (which I recommend, as it is pretty easy to do) and then just have Sears or your Monroe dealer swap out the shocks for around $250 or less (which I do not recommend that you do yourself - it was very difficult to get off the old shocks as Bert describes. Not the front ones - the back ones. Two husky guys could hardly get the shocks unthreaded, and it is a job best left to a mechanic with the proper tools who changes out shocks for a living!).

Sure do not miss the "sproingy, sproingy" ride from my old electronic suspension.

walk_the_walk2

They were as easy to replace as a spark plug for me. I got mine at Autozone, who also checked the codes for me. I did not have to use any kind of nutbuster fluid on mine, but it is possible you'll need to, if they have been there for a while. If I remember the procedure correctly, I also had to unhook the battery for 20 minutes to reset the error code, since I did not have an OBD2 device.

But, paying $700.00 for this is an outrageous ripoff of the highest magnitude.

P.S. Stop buying cheap gas. It may be what is damaging your O2 sensors. I have had no further problems in the past few years, but I only buy gas at BP, Shell or Citgo, and avoid those low dollar places. I also add 2-3 oz of acetone to a full tank of gas every now and then to clean out the carbon deposits. STP will do the same thing.

bertbcfm

How much of either substance (STP, Acetone) do you add to a tank of gas? Where did you hear about this and do you have any idea how these substances work?

STP and Acetone are sooooo different from each other. But it sounds interesting.

Regards
Bert

walk_the_walk2

I guess my prior posting was not very clear. Sorry. I meant either/or. While STP and after-market similar additives may contain acetone, they could contain something entirely different, and most companies keep that a trade secret in the first place.

I suggested STP because the jury is still out on acetone, and because some do not like to experiment or take risks.

However the info on acetone is available online in more than one place:

http://pesn.com/2005/03/17/6900069_Acetone/

http://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=4&highlight=acetone

are some examples. In general, the mix is one ounce of acetone to 4 gallons of gas. Best to premix acetone with a small amount of gas and then add this mixture to the tank, to avoid spilling acetone on your paint job. Acetone can harm the finish on some older cars.

Acetone definitely helps to remove H2O from gasoline and reduce carbon buildup. So do other after market additives.

hope that helps.

ivan02

Hi I just have a question on the last part of the reply that you did Im not able to read the last part the only thing that I see is (you can check the) and thats it also how long it took you to change the shocks, did you have to do any mods to the mounts Im planing to change mine but Im not sure what shoud I use. Im planing to use Kyb instead of monroe but I really dont know how the ride will be, is it better than the stock suspension any help or advice that you could give me would be great thanks alot for the post that you made.

walk_the_walk2

Dear Ivan02:

I see what you mean about the prior posting. The last sentence or two is cut off (truncated) by the system. I don't think I said much of importance in that paragraph, as the main part (the 10 steps) are still there and are the most important information. We did the shocks using the steps I described (which I wrote up the very next day), in about 4 hours, not including the hour prep time the day prior for removing the electronic actuators and securing the electronic connectors. The front shock replacements were easy, the rear were very hard, very physically hard to remove and took every bit of strength we could muster to do it. So, for this reason, I only recommend it to those who have done it before or have an experienced and strong helper to assist them. Otherwise just go to the mechanic and get it done.

If I recall correctly, I was stating that you could use a different shock from another company, if it matched up to the exact Monroe shocks that I used. Put another way, the length of the shock, the shock body and the threaded rod should be approximately the same, so it fits well.

I would guess that KYB has a shock that is a match, and can cross reference the Monroe shock numbers that I listed in that posting Posting #61 of 124 (see it here for now: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0e3b5f/60#MSG60) . I also noticed that KYB makes the little electronic valve assembly that mounts on top of the front shocks, (mine had a KYB part number), so it may be that KYB manufactures the Isuzu OEM shocks in the first place.

To quote from my prior posting, "The EXACT Monrote Sensamatic shocks I used are 37159 (front) and 37160 (rear) - I have the boxes here in hand. There are no extra parts/pieces required. Just these two pair of Monroe shocks."

If you change the mounting, that is a whole different ballgame, as we say. If you have the expertise to do the welding and the knowledge, or can hire someone who does, then it should go well for you. But, I cannot advise you beyond what I know.

At present, I am still driving my 02 Axiom with 94000 miles on it and still like the new Monroe shocks alot better than the original OEM ones.

Good luck on your project. Keep us posted!

bertbcfm

I just read your followup posting on acetone and checked out the threads. I'm off to Walmart to but some nail polish remover and give it a try.

Thanks
Bert

walk_the_walk2

As my prior postings have detailed, I have struggled for a couple of years now, or the last 50,000 miles, whichever you like, with noisy brake problems and rotor problems.

I solved half of the problem last summer, when my friend and I replaced the original OEM rotors (which had warped for the 2nd time) with some drilled and slotted high temp rotors that I bought from SummitRacing.com to fit my vehicle. That cured any issue with rotors getting too hot and warping.

However, it did not get rid of the squalling noise that the brakes make, especially when you first apply the brakes the first time, or on any downhill braking situation, and at other times at random.

So, tired of the problem, I took it back to a good mechanic, who took the front and rear brakes apart, cleaned them, readjusted the rear brakes and lubbed the backing plate for the brake shoes (which oddly at 94000 miles did not need replacing yet), and then deglazed the front pads (which are only about 8 months old). They also used some special product made by B& J that reduces pad noise. (I do not have the name of the product).

I can say that the past few days have been wonderful. No more brake noise. I suspect that the problem all along was that the rear brakes were not doing what they should have been and the front brakes were doing most of the work, which led to excessive heat, rotor warping and pulsation, noise and glazed front pads.

I would also speculate that since this is a somewhat heavy vehicle (4700 lbs) that others are having the same problem and do not know what it takes to get it fixed. The racing rotors were a big help, but ultimately a cleaning and adjustment was also needed to fully resolve the problem.

Hope that helps.

walk_the_walk2

Actually, they sell acetone in the paint section in a metal quart can. Remember that the mix ratio is only 1 ounce per 4 gallons of gasoline, not to exceed 4 oz. per full tank of gas. Acetone binds to the water in gas, and also enhances combustion.

12yearhondatec

2002 axiom starts and dies when its warmed up. In the morning it will start fine . Go to the store for about 15 minutes come out and it will start and die the first time on the second try it will start fine. If you leave it sit for 2 hours or more it will start on the first time. Please help.

bertbcfm

The only things I could think of are low fuel pump pressure, and/or clogged fuel filters.

I'd change the filters in any case then check the fuel pressure.

Regards
Bert

bertbcfm

Just looked at the parts diagram and it looks like there is only one fuel filter on the driver's side behind center and on the inside surface of the frame.
Probably lots of after market filters would work.

Luck
Bert

howardru

Hi,

2002 Axiom Isuzu with 85K miles. Live outside Boston so we do have all 4 seasons. Drive by my wife who is not an aggressive driver.

Just picked her up after complaining of banging and loss of control this afternoon. Found that the Traction Bar is completely rusted off the frame. In fact the entire frame is completely rused through where the traction bar connects to the frame!

I do not believe it will be possible to make the repair the car easily. AAA tow guy says this is not an easy repair as I thought. Either Frame needs to be replaced or an entire section must be completely cut out and replaced. Looks VERY expensive.

I cannot believe that the frame would rust through after 7 years! I've lived here all my life and have never seen this happen to any automobile.

Has anyone else experienced premature rusting of the frame or other components? I just dropped it off at the dealer and we are expecting the worst. Any and all advice is much appreciated.

Thanks
H

walk_the_walk2

Sorry to hear of your chassis rust problems. That's a huge bummer!

I am the original owner of a 02 Axiom with 95K miles which has never left Central Florida and has zero rust on it. So, I suspect that this is salt damage from the winter roads in your area... In fact, I have often described the underside of the Axiom as being built like a tank.

Whether undercoating was ever applied to your car or not in Boston, is a question I have at this point... It is a well known fact that many cars' undercarriages get rust damage up north - and only additional undercoating will prevent that, or regular car washing to remove the salt. Sorry it has happened to you though.

More bad news: I went to my glove box, pulled my original documentation and have more bad news for you: even if you are the original owner, the 02 Axiom's "Limited Warranty Covering Perforation from Corrosion for New Isuzu Vehicles", as detailed in the original Isuzu Warranty Information booklet for the 2002 Isuzu Axiom, which I have in my hand and am reading from right now, only offers coverage for 100,000 miles or 72 months, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST. Since you are likely well past 72 months now- their original "rust through" protection is expired. Which is unfortunate, as it would have been valid if you had noticed the damage in the first 6 years. I am assuming that you are not the original owner and/or did not buy this 02 Axiom NEW after 6-22-2003.

To be clear, if you had noticed this damage 2 years ago, you could have pressed for whatever warranty repair work you could get at that time. You can, and should still ask for help, and contact corporate Isuzu about this problem, but it's a long shot, IMHO. As you may know, Isuzu stopped selling cars and trucks in the US market in 2009, so there is no advantage for them to help you with this problem.

The dealer will likely farm this repair out to another shop that specializes in frame repairs and welding. It will be expensive, but if the vehicle is paid for already, then you can continue to drive it after its fixed. Axioms are great vehicles, your corrosion problem aside, and you will just have to evaluate if the cost is worth it to you. If the dealer says it will cost you $3000 to fix it, then it may not be worth it, frankly. Just check the cost of an 02 Axiom on Ebay and you will see my point. And, the trade-in value is nearly nothing.

But, since there is a federal "Cash for Clunkers" program on the horizon, if the repair bill is < $2K you may want to opt to fix it, drive it a short while and then trade it in under that program for the federal credit, if it qualifies. However, you would have to trade it in at another dealer, of course.

The good news is that your wife was not injured by a car accident, which could have also happened. But, it is still a huge bummer, no matter how you slice or dice it. Again, I am sorry to hear that this happened to you.

howardru

Hi Walk the Walk 2.

Thanks for the response. My wife is the original owner but as you said, I think we may be SOL. Even the old Isuzu dealer I jjust had the car towed to, is no longer in the busines of selling new cars (of any type) they just had their Chrysler, jeep franchise lost and now they sell used cars I think.

However....Remembering that the Axiom is built upon the Rodeo chassis, which is also the Honda Passport Chassic, I just uncovered that the NHTSA just opened in inquirty into rust related problems on the Rodeo and Passport. Bingo! NHTSA Action Number : PE09030. Check it out.. This sounds to be the exact same problem. http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/defects/results.cfm

Apparently 21 people have filed complaints and I just finished becoming #22. Not sure I'll get anywhere with this before I have to go buy her a new car, but whatever I can get back. No way am I going to spend much money on this car.

If you are really that lucky, then I think it's time for you to trade that puppy in before the surprise rust sneaks up on you.
I'll keep you posted.

howardru

Isuzu dealer Service center called back. Pretty much non-repairable without replacing the entire frame. scrap

walk_the_walk2

Huge bummer. Sorry again to hear that. If you have a place to park it you could sell off the parts. Does the CD changer still work? I could use a new one and you could remove it and ebay it. Same with the MID, the ECU, and so on. Don't mean to sound like a vulture, here, but the sum of the parts is still worth something, if it's feasible for you to mess with parting it out.

stever

Looks like the '02 Axiom is on the Cash for Clunkers list....

Cash for Clunkers Eligible Vehicles

A National "Clunker Plan" - Good or Bad Idea?

howardru

Thanks for the all the condolensces...

I already looked into the Cash for Clunkers and I am hoping that this gets pushed through quickly. Everything I read says if you buy a car by July 1st, however thats 8 days from now and who knows how long it will take any dealer to get their systems setup to accept this payment.

Just had AAA bring the car back to my house and it's sitting in our garage now. It's such a dam shame because everything else in the car works great (CD changer etc) and body is in great shape. I will call the local junkyard and see what they will offer for the car since it's worth far more in parts. I know the tax donations only allow $500 unless you can prove it was re-sold which won't happen.

Let me see what happens with insurance and the clunker law before I start selling off the parts.

stever

The rumors I hear are that it's going to take 30 days for the clunker regulations to get put in place so I'm thinking the dealers won't be set to go until early August. Probably about the same time as GM leaves Chapter 11 bankruptcy.

I haven't seen anything firm about buy now, get voucher money later. I've been having trouble trying to keep up with all the C4C stuff though.

Letting the Axiom sit isn't going to hurt anything, but if you have to sit for ~6 weeks. That's not going to work. Maybe a long term rent-a-wreck rental?

wkaz

I need to replace the brake lamp on my axiom but there seems to be two hidden screws holding it in, any Idea how to remove the tail light assembly?

bertbcfm

Try going to http://www.myisuzuparts.com/

Put in year and Axiom then try maintenance parts and you will find a parts diagram that will help find those screws. Probably to inboard of lens under rear door seal.

Regards
Bert

walk_the_walk2

Bert's right. It's really easy to change out. Only two screws and the whole assembly comes loose. Nothing really hidden per se.

I have uploaded page 1783 of the Service Manual as a single page PDF file, which has two pictures and the instructions, so you can see this for yourself:

http://www.vivagen.net/Docs/2002_Isuzu_Axiom_Service_Manual_Pg1783.pdf

I wouldn't bother with disconnecting the battery for a simple bulb replacement, but use your own judgement.

Hope that helps. This Service Manual has really paid for itself. I think I paid less than $20 for it online.

howardru

Insuance claims adjust came by this morning. Looks like he'll file for a complete total/loss for the Axiom. Great news on all fronts.

1. Hopefully get something like book value of $7 to $8K
2. Don't have to wait for Cash for Clunkers to kick in sometime in July
3. Gives me about $4K more towards a new car than the C4C program

Will have a better weekend now.

howardru

Getting $7500 from insurance. Check is coming tomorrow. Great news on this POS.

Going towards her new Mazda CX-7 to join my CX-9.

Anyone need any tan floor mats in mint condition?

howardru

CD Changer? Do you mean the CD 6 disc holder cartridge?
I may be able to keep that from the salvage company. Reply by tonight.

walk_the_walk2

Yes, I could use a replacement for my 6 disc CD changer. It mounts inside the center console under the lid. Would be happy to pay you a fair price for it, if you are sure it still works. Mine was a Clarion, yours should be too.

You should also be able to sell those tan mats on Ebay real easily. Anything with Isuzu in the title sells easily.

walk_the_walk2

I spoke too soon. The problem has come back again 2 weeks later, at least in part. The brakes still squall (I think that is the right descriptor) when you first apply them, until the rotors get wiped clean. After that, they can squall again under certain circumstances. While the cleaning and adjusting helped a great deal, the problem is anything but gone.

Someone suggested that I rebuild the calipers. I bought the parts; have the instructions; it looks easy enough, but I am squeamish about doing it. Anyone else noticing this annoying problem? Any ideas?

howardru

OK. Salvage yard is coming today. You are looking for the 6 Disc cartridge that comes out and you load with CDs, correct? Not the entire center console system that which would require me taking the console apart.

What's a fair price? $50 plus shipping (which is maybe $5 via ups). She can ues this for some new accessories for her CX-7.

send me an email to howardru4u@yahoo.com to take this offfline.

bertbcfm

Good news about an AXIOM?????????????

I know it's a mixed blessing as they say. But glad to hear of your good fortune.

A mixed blessing is like when your 17 year old daughter comes home at 6AM, but she has a bible under her arm, but it's a Gideon bible.

Regards
irreverently Bert

cptsesso

3 cd cartridges on Ebay right now. Cheapest one is $9.99......

walk_the_walk2

Incredible good luck. Thinking my 02 Axiom's 6 CD Clarion Changer had died, I was attempting to buy another one, only to find out that there was nothing wrong with it in the first place. I read a tip in the Answers section about removing the B+ fuse and it reset my CD changer and it is NOW WORKING FINE!

I think the whole lockup/freezeup/no response problem was caused by my battery running dead a few weeks ago, when the interior light was left on, so this could happen to anyone.

Here are the exact steps to correct the problem, in case your Axiom CD changers freezes up:

**************

Remove the Axiom's interior fuse panel cover at the left hand side of the dashboard by the driver's side door. Look for the B+ Audio Acc fuse, a 15 amp fuse (blue). It is the 2nd fuse from the top and is labeled for Audio Accessories.

With the car turned off, unplug the B+ 15 amp fuse using a small pair of needle nose pliars. With the fuse removed, start up the Axiom. The amber MID display will now be completely blank. Shut off the car and reinstall the same 15 A fuse (unless its blown, of course, in which case you need a new one instead). This sequence appears to reset the MID Control Panel/CD connection somehow.

When you restart the car with the fuse in place, the CD changer on your 02 Axiom should come back to life and eject the CD cartridge. All should work again, or else the CD changer is defective or jammed.

Thank you to rbronosky for his original post on this elsewhere in this forum. I did the same steps, only without making a big spark, as I reinserted the fuse with the car turned off. But, I would have never even guessed this was possible without his post. THANK YOU, RBRONOSKY!

*************

Now, for the bad news. This is my 2nd CD changer, which I bought on Ebay from a junkyard for about $75. I replaced the original CD changer, because it had jammed up, too, JUST LIKE THIS ONE, and I tossed it out, thinking it was dead. It even had a CD cartridge still stuck in it. That unit may well have had nothing wrong with it in the 1st place!!

Final comment: Some folks could easily get suckered into paying $600 for a new CD player from their dealer just because their CD locked up like mine. Isuzu sure has done a terrible job communicating problems with their vehicles. We should not have to learn how to fix these kinds of problems thru the grapevine, and Isuzu deserves to no longer be in the US car market!