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Mitsubishi Outlander Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jonoxjonox Posts: 84
    Are you guys using nitrogen in your tires?
    With N2 I've only needed to top up one tire between service visits one time during the last 18 months. Caps no problem.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,873
    edited November 2011
    This may be of interest.

    Nitrogen in the tires

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    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • comem47comem47 Posts: 394
    Well one of the money making scams seems to be to fail people for supposed bad wipers. I know I gave mine a quick look before going for inspection on the Mitsu and gave a closer look on my wife's car before going and I don't remember any tears on the wipers, but surprise -both vehicles were going to fail because of that. (they hope you will buy their heavily marked up wiper blades in order to pass on the spot). Since I also had to adjust my emergency brake to pass I had to come back again and paid a lot less for blade inserts at Walmart before my return. When I was having my re-inspection it was no surprise to me that the person in the next bay was having their wiper blades replaced. In the future I'll have spare blades ready to go and will absolutely inspect them before I go in. Any tears suddenly appearing next time and I think the Attorney General's office will hear from me about it.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,241
    No nitrogen here. If it were free I might consider it but using it is just preempting the law of diminishing returns that's actually working in your favor while lining someone else's pockets. Consider a tire filled with normal air which is more or less 76% Nitrogen, 24% Other.

    It develops a leak. According to the folks who push nitrogen, the molecules are too big to get out so just the 24% Other gets out. I top it up with normal air again. It's now:

    (76% + (76% of 24%)) Nitrogen, (24% of 24%) Other. Simplified, that's 94% Nitrogen, 6% Other.

    The leak stays so that 6% Other eventually gets out. Top it up again and the tires are up to 98.5% Nitrogen and just 1.5% Other. At that point the leak probably won't go low enough to trigger the TPMS but if it does a final top-up will put it at 99.6% Nitrogen and 0.4% Other.

    Now I've got nitrogen-filled tires and it didn't cost me anything other than the periodic top-up of the tires. My Outlander is 23 months old & I've only added air once. So for me that periodic top-up is rare enough to not matter.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,241
    Inspections in Chicagoland are much simpler: They connect to the OBDC computer & read the codes. They're only after emissions issues. And all of the test facilities are run by the state government, not private companies, so if you fail they're not going to try & sell you fix-it stuff.
  • jonoxjonox Posts: 84
    My 2010 has N2 filled tires as original equipment with free N2 top up. If needs be I've no problem using air between service visits .
    Your calculation is interesting but info. from Steve is also worth a look.
  • Just bought a '10 Outtie SE. Where's the oli filter? Any tips on maintenance would be appreciated.
  • jonoxjonox Posts: 84
    To safeguard the balance of your 10 year warranty suggest you follow the Warranty and Maintenance Manual service schedule carefully. Your first decision depending on where and how you intend to use your vehicle is whether to follow the Severe or Regular maintenance schedule. Be aware that vehicles driven in Canada need to use the Severe schedule - I've been around the issue with MMSCAN and they are firm on this.
  • rcpaxrcpax Posts: 580
    See Outlander DIY Oil Change here: http://bit.ly/VWhkD
  • Hey guys, I'm trying to find out wheater the mitsubishi synthetic oil brand is an full synthetic oil and who is the maker.
    Any thoughts about using versus Mobil 1?
    Thanks.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Any sythetic oil 5-20W brand is good for the Outlander. Very cold weather 0-20W is OK. Very hot 5-30W is OK.
  • danvodanvo Posts: 4
    Yes. I just done my 2005 Outlander. Here is the clip http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4aH_hZTDU0
  • costello1costello1 Posts: 60
    Now that my local Mitis dealer has closed and the closest one is 2 hours away , I was wondering what a 60k checkup would cost if I went to a local shop . Any ideas? What needs to be done at this time?
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,241
    If you still have your manuals there should be a maintenance guide describing the required service. Also, Edmunds has a page at http://www.edmunds.com/car-maintenance/ that lists services at various mileage. See the Maintenance & Recalls section. If they have data for the '07 then that should say as well.

    As a guideline it's going to be whatever they did at the 30K service plus, depending on the your engine, the timing belt. There might be a couple of other things but the timing belt, if it needs replacing, would be the biggie. And if you do replace the timing belt go ahead & replace the other belts. It costs maybe $50 for the parts but there shouldn't be any added labor since they're already incurring the labor to get at the timing belt.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 898
    '07 Outlander V6 timing belt change is at 105k per the service manager at Mitsubishi dealer near me. Got a Class 3 trailer hitch and wiring harness from etrailer.com last week. Easy install, now I can pull my utility trailer.
  • bobw1bobw1 Posts: 19
    I have a 2008 Outlander with 62,000 miles so it's just out of warranty, and the AM Radio just quit working. The FM works fine. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks....
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,241
    If all you're getting is static then I'd suggest tracing the antenna and looking for corrosion or shorts in the line. Before crawling under the dash, dismount the antenna & look for corrosion in the mount.

    Since FM works you know it isn't an electrical or fuse issue. Nor has the head unit died. Though beyond the antenna it is still possible the head unit has an internal problem.
  • bobw1bobw1 Posts: 19
    Thanks for the input. When it first went out I got a weak signal for about a day. Now there is no noise on the am, not even static. I'll check the antenna and wiring.
  • fastgstfastgst Posts: 46
    Do you guys have any problems with your outlander, I am planning to buy a 2012 2.4L DOHC model.

    I looked under the hood and was pleased to find everything very easy to access and work on, I can name everything under the hood unlike some of the newer cars.

    But what I want to know is the reliability in general, my pass experience is that mitsubishi has fairly good reliability in general.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 898
    Judging by postings on these forum's, this gen Outlanders seem to be very reliable. My '07 LS V6 has had no issues except tires and brakes in 57 K
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,873
    Lots of green here too (and green is good):

    Reliability Rating for 2011 Mitsubishi Outlander SUV by Identifix

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  • jonoxjonox Posts: 84
    I have a 2010 2.4L ES all wheel drive, 11,000 miles with no problems.

    Keep in mind that Mitsubishi have a dual severity maintenance schedule and expect that their frequency recommendations will be followed in order to protect the 10year/100k mile powertrain warranty.

    Because the Mitsubishi 4B1 aluminum engine with MIVEC continuously variable valve timing need a guaranteed clean oil supply the severe schedule (which applies to all Canadian users) calls for oil and filter change every 3750 miles or 3months, whichever occurs first. Also the motor should be warmed up at every start.

    The 2.4L has adequate power and the FWD/AWD/AWDLock control is a great feature for all weather driving conditions.

    Some have criticized the use of a CVT drive but I have found it to be a seemless transmission unit which actually enhances acceleration.

    Hope this helps.
  • fastgstfastgst Posts: 46
    Do you know the specs of the non-severe schdule for 2.4L?

    I do not neglict my cars but sometimes I only get to drive a car 5000 miles a year and I do not want to dump out the oil at 3 month or 1250 miles.
    I have NEVER followed the duration recommendation and I use synthetic oil, and the car is garaged not exposed to moisture or large temperature changes.

    Also does anyone know:

    2.4L model has a 2WD/4WD/Lock knob
    and the
    V6 has the S-AWC with tarmac/snow/lock knob.

    Does that mean the 2.4L model will be running true 2WD in that first setting and basically should have gas mileage like the FWD model except it is carrying 160lbs of extra weight?

    when I use the 4WD mode does that mean it will be more like a subaru full time AWD?

    The S-AWC system knob seems to imply AWD all the time.
  • jonoxjonox Posts: 84
    The "Regular" Schedule is double the "Severe" so oil and filter change is every 6 months or 7,500 miles. After 2011 I believe Mitsu have changed to synthetic oil so these intervals may have increased somewhat.

    "Severe" applies if the vehicle is frequently driven in one or more of the following road conditions:
    50% of driving in heavy city traffic in hot weather above 90 degrees F,
    Extensive idling and/or low speed operation (stop and go traffic),
    Repeated short trips with engine not fully warmed up, especially in freezing temps,
    Sandy, dusty, rough, muddy or salt spread roads,
    Vehicle is used for towing, police, taxi or commercial operation,
    Driving in day or night temperatures below freezing.

    The "Severe" frequency bothered me at first but having read the horror stories with the 2.4L Equinox which has a similar GM "knock off" engine I'm happy to comply. Also you may be able to negotiate free oil changes as part of the deal.

    Concerning the 2WD/4WD controls, the driver can change the drive mode at any time. The 2WD setting drives the front wheels only and is more efficient on gas. The 4WD Auto setting transfers up to 40% torque to the rear wheels under full throttle reducing to 25% over 40 MPH and 15% when cruising. For driving in more challenging conditions 4WD Lock mode can be selected with up to 60% of available torque being sent to the rear wheels, useful for fast starts and better control on snow or loose surfaces.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,241
    I have a 2010 GT with AWC & the V6, sun & sound, navi, & towing package. I live in the Chicago area and follow the regular service schedule (6 months/7500 mile for oil changes, etc.). I don't drive that many miles, though, so my oil changes have been time-based so far. With 30 months of ownership I'm almost at 24K miles.

    Last week I did the 2 year/30K service (at 2.5 years/23K miles). One warranty item did surface during the work: the AC compressor was leaking & was replaced free of charge. I hadn't noticed as it was still keepign up with the 90 degree tempts we've been seeing. When they first came out, some 2010 Outlanders had weak/bad AC and it was traced to a bad batch from Mitsu's supplier. There are posts in the 2010 Outlander thread about this if you care to read them. Mine might have been a part of that but it just took longer to surface. Or it just started leaking. Doesn't much matter; it was fixed at no cost to me.

    That's been the only repair I've had to make and I don't really count it since it was covered by warranty and was free.

    Reliability was a factor in my original purchase. My last car was a '99 Galant LS V6 which had only a couple of repairs in my 10.5 years/152K miles of ownership. In my experience, Mitsu reliability is up there with the best. But then I do take care of my cars. I don't neglect maintenance and I don't leadfoot it from every stoplight (though I will once in a while).

    Lifetime fuel economy with the V6 & AWC has been 21.2MPG using the recommended premium fuel. Premium costs more and you can use regular if you want, but while I didn't notice a power difference the fuel economy does drop by around 0.5 MPG. In the end using premium doesn't cost more per mile so I use it. And that MPG is through a couple of Chicagoland winters, summers with high AC usage, and includes the occasional hauling of 800+ pounds of stuff from the home improvement stores.

    The AWC default, IIRC, to 90% front/10% rear in Tarmac road but can shift power to the rear as needed. Snow changes that bias to start at 70%30%. As noted you can change modes at any time or speed. For fast starts I use snow mode to avoid tripping the TCS; once moving at 40+ I'll revert to Tarmac. Once, with 5 passengers + luggage it stayed in 3rd all the way up to 85MPH going uphill on an onramp; it has plenty of power.
  • jonoxjonox Posts: 84
    Thanks for the heads up on the AC compressor, my 2 year service is due at the end of June so I'll have it checked out.

    Because Mitsu Canada were adamant on the "Severe" schedule for Canadian drivers this will be my eighth oil and filter change, an average of about 1500 miles per fill however, with free O&F changes for life this is an easy decision. As mentioned in my previous post, GM have no end of problems with their similar 2.4L motor so better safe than sorry when it comes to oil condition.
  • fastgstfastgst Posts: 46
    edited June 2012
    So this is 2.4L a Japanese design but shared with GM? I was thinking it would be a durable engine that last at least 200k miles.
    But I havn't heard of anyone with problem with the outlander engines!

    Is the V6 a better designed engine?
  • jonoxjonox Posts: 84
    The four cylinder MIVEC engine was developed jointly by Mitsubishi, DaimlerChrysler and Hyundai as a of the results of their "World Engine" project. The cylinder block and other basic structural parts were jointly developed by the three companies but the intake and exhaust manifolds, cylinder head's intake and exhaust ports plus other elements related to tuning were independently developed by Mitsu.

    Production of the new engine began in 2005 at a newly installed state of the art production line at Mitsu's power train plant at Shiga, Japan.

    This engine was the first to have the continuously variable valve timing "Mitubishi Innovative Valve timing Electronic Control system (MIVEC) applied to both inlet and exhaust valves.

    Can't comment on the V6.
  • fastgstfastgst Posts: 46
    Say, if the electronics / sensors etc on the AWC or S-AWC fails is it under the bumper to bumper or the
    10/100k drivetrain warranty?
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,241
    If the sensor is part of the AWC system then it's covered by the AWC warranty. Doesn't matter if it's hardware, software/chips, or touchy-feely stuff like sensors. :D

    Now, if the sensor is merely used by the AWC system then it might be covered by the B2B or another warranty. Some sensors like ones that detect wheel spin might be used by TCS, ABS, and AWC. In that case I imagine Mitsu (and any other manufacturer) is going to use the shortest warranty terms they can which would probably be the B2B since TCS and ABS aren't powertrain components.
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